第 73 节
作者:双曲线      更新:2022-04-14 11:08      字数:9322
  maximum of three inches; these are in season until the middle of June;
  after which they become light and empty。 When alive they are a brownish
  green; but when boiled they are the colour of the ordinary crab; and are
  exceedingly full in flesh; and delicate。 The shell is extremely hard
  compared to the small size; and the claws must be broken by a sharp blow
  with the back of a knife upon a block。
  We frequently had them first boiled and then pounded in a mortar to a
  paste; then mixed with boiling water and strained through a sieve; after
  which cream should be added; together with the required seasonings for a
  soup。 I imagine that the common green crabs of the English coasts; which
  are caught in such numbers and thrown away by the fishermen; would be
  almost as good if treated in the same manner for potage。
  The calm monotony of a life at Trooditissa was disturbed every now and
  then at distant intervals by trifling events which only served to prove
  that peculiar characters existed in the otherwise heavenly atmosphere
  which showed our connection with the world below。
  One night a burglar attempted an entrance; but the man (who was a
  carpenter) having been previously suspected; was watched; and having
  been seen in the middle of the night to place a ladder against the outer
  gallery; by which he ascended; and with false keys opened a door that
  led to the store…room of the monastery; he was suddenly pounced upon by
  two strong young priests and fairly captured。 On the following morning
  the monks applied to me; and as usual I vainly pleaded my unofficial
  position。 I was either to do or to say something。 If the man was sent to
  Limasol; thirty…five miles distant; the monks would have the trouble and
  expense of appearing as prosecutors; the robber would be imprisoned for
  perhaps a couple of years; during which his family would starve。 I could
  offer no advice。 I simply told them that if any robber should attempt to
  enter my tent I should not send him to Limasol; but I should endeavour
  to make the tent so disagreeable to him that he would never be tempted
  to revisit the premises from the attraction of pleasing associations。 I
  explained to the monks that although a severe thrashing with stout
  mulberry sticks would; if laid on by two stout fellows; have a most
  beneficial effect upon the burglar; and save all the trouble of a
  reference to Limasol; at the same time that the innocent wife and family
  would not be thrown upon their relatives; they must not accept my views
  of punishment as any suggestion under the present circumstances。
  About half an hour after this conversation I heard a sound of
  well…inflicted blows; accompanied by cries which certainly denoted a
  disagreeable physical sensation; within the courtyard of the monastery;
  and to my astonishment I found that my interpreter and willing cook
  Christo had volunteered as one of the executioners; and the burglar;
  having been severely thrashed; was turned out of the monastery and
  thrust down the path towards the depths of Phyni。 Christo was a very
  good fellow; and he sometimes reminded me of a terrier ready to obey or
  take a hint from his master upon any active subject; while at others; in
  his calmer moments; he resembled King Henry's knights; who interpreted
  their monarch's wishes respecting Thomas a…Becket。
  On 6th June we had been somewhat startled by the sudden appearance in
  the afternoon of a man perfectly naked; who marched down the approach
  from the spring and entered the monastery…yard in a dignified and
  stage…like attitude as though he had the sole right of entree。 At first
  sight I thought he was mad; but on reference to the monks I discovered
  he was perfectly sane。 It appeared that he was a Greek about forty…five
  years of age; who was a native of Kyrenia; and for some offence twenty
  years ago he had been ordered by the priests to do penance in this
  extraordinary manner。 His body; originally white; had become quite as
  brown as that of an Arab of the desert; he possessed no clothing nor
  property of any kind; not even a blanket during winter; but he wandered
  about the mountains and visited monasteries and certain villages; where
  he obtained food as charity。 He would never accept money (probably from
  the absence of pockets); neither would he venture near Turkish villages;
  as he had several times received a thrashing from the men for thus
  presenting himself before their women; and it is to be regretted that
  the Cypriotes had not followed the Turkish example; which would have
  quickly cured his eccentricity。 He was a strong; well…built man; with
  good muscular development; his head was bald with the exception of a
  little hair upon either side; and he was interesting to a certain extent
  as an example of what a European can endure when totally exposed to the
  sun and weather。 Sometimes he slept like a wild animal beneath a rock
  among the mountains; or in a cave; when such a luxurious retreat might
  offer a refuge; at other times he was received and sheltered by the
  priests or people。 This individual's name was Christodilos; and
  according to my notes taken at the time; he is described as 〃originally
  a labourer of Kyrenia; parents dead: one brother and two sisters
  living。〃
  CHAPTER XVI。
  SOMETHING ABOUT TAXATION。
  The monastery gardens of Trooditissa at the close of July exhibited the
  great fruit…producing power of the soil and climate at this high
  altitude; but at the same time they were examples of the arbitrary and
  vexatious system of Turkish taxation; which remains unchanged and is
  still enforced by the British authorities。 I shall describe this in
  detail; and leave the question of possibility of development under such
  wholesale tyranny to the judgment of the public。 It is difficult to
  conceive how any persons can expect that Europeans; especially
  Englishmen; will become landowners and settle in Cyprus when subjected
  to such unfair and irritating restrictions。
  NO PRODUCE CAN BE REMOVED FROM ANY GARDEN UNTIL IT SHALL HAVE BEEN
  VALUED FOR TAXATION BY THE GOVERNMENT OFFICIAL APPOINTED FOR THAT
  PURPOSE; at the rate of 10 per cent。 ad valorem。
  At first sight this system appears incredible; but upon an examination
  of the details our wonder ceases at the general absence of cultivated
  vegetables and the propagation of superior qualities of fruits。 If the
  object of the government were purposely to repress all horticultural
  enterprise; and to drive the inhabitants to the Nebuchadnezzar…like
  grazing upon wild herbs; the present system would assuredly accomplish
  the baneful end。 The Cypriotes are called indolent; and are blamed by
  travellers for their apathy in contenting themselves with wild
  vegetables; when their soil is eminently adapted in the varying
  altitudes and climates for the production of the finest qualities of
  fruits and green…stuffs。 I will imagine that an Englishman of any class
  may be placed in the following position of a cultivator; which he
  assuredly would be; if foolish enough to become a proprietor in Cyprus。
  I am at this moment looking down from the shade of the great walnut…tree
  upon the terraced gardens and orchards beneath; which are rich in
  potatoes of excellent quality; onions; beet…root; &c。; together with
  walnuts; pears; apples; plums; filberts; figs; and mulberries。 The pears
  and plums are of several varieties; some will ripen late; others are now
  fit to gather; but nothing can be touched until the valuer shall arrive;
  he is expected in ten days; by which time many of the plums will have
  fallen to the ground; and the swarming rats will have eaten half the
  pears。 The shepherds' children and the various monastery boys live in
  the boughs like monkeys; and devour the fruit ripe or unripe; from
  morning till evening; with extraordinary impunity; women who arrive from
  the low country with children to be christened place them upon the
  ground; and climb the pear…trees; neither colic nor cholera is known in
  this sanctified locality。 The natives of the low country who arrive at
  the monastery daily with their laden mules from villages upon the other
  side of the mountains; en route to Limasol; immediately ascend the
  attractive trees and feast upon the plums; at the same time they fill
  their handkerchiefs and pockets with pears; &c。; as food during their
  return journey。 〃There will not be much trouble for the valuer when he
  arrives;〃 I remarked to the monks; 〃if you allow such wholesale robbery
  of your orchards。〃
  〃On the contrary;〃 they replied; 〃the difficulty will be increased; we
  never sell the produce of the gardens; which is kept for the support of
  all those who visit us; but we have much trouble with the valuation of
  the fruits for taxation。 It is hard that we shall have to pay for what
  the public consume at our expense; but it will be thus arranged。 。 。 。
  The valuer will arrive; and he will find some trees laden with unripe
  fruit; others that have been stripped by plunder; the potatoes; &c。;
  will be still in the ground。 We shall have a person to represent our
  interests in the valuation as a check upon the official; but in the end
  he will have his own way。 We shall explain that certain trees are naked;
  as the fruit became ripe and wa