第 51 节
作者:
双曲线 更新:2022-04-14 11:08 字数:9322
appearance and organisation resembled a market…place in England。 The
various open places within the town; instead of being receptacles for
filth; as is usual throughout the East; had been carefully planted with
young trees; most of which were exhibiting their first spring shoots and
leaves。 The quay which faced the sea; although exposed to the
undermining action of the waves; had been repaired and was in fair
condition; from this a tolerable pier projected; upon which piles of
goods were being disembarked from the steamer that had just arrived from
Larnaca。 Two small tugs ran upon alternate days; thus affording
facilities for passengers and goods between Limasol and Larnaca; which
was a great convenience recently established to avoid the difficulty of
the roadless land journey。 H。M。S。 Torch was in the roadstead; together
with about twenty vessels of various flags and tonnage。 Some of these
were loading wine for Trieste; and it was interesting to watch the
system adopted to save the difficulty of embarking the heavy casks in
lighters; in the absence of cranes or winches。 The barrels when full
were slightly inferior in weight to their displacement of sea…water;
they accordingly floated almost level with the surface; and were formed
into a chain of two casks abreast and about fifty yards in length。 Thus
arranged; they were towed by boats until alongside the vessel; when they
were easily hoisted up on board。 As boats could not lie against the
perpendicular wall of the quay except during a perfect calm; there was
considerable trouble in carrying on the commerce of the port according
to modern requirements; but the inventions of necessity had simplified
many difficulties at the expense of increased manual labour。 Boats lay a
few yards off the shore; and were loaded by men who walked shoulder…
deep with the packages upon their heads。 I saw lighters discharging
planks and baulks of timber; by shooting them into the sea with
sufficient force to follow the direction given towards the shore; while
the receivers stood in the water to capture them upon arrival。
The shops and stores along the quay…face closely resemble those of
Larnaca; but there was more activity among the people。 The streets of
the bazaar were thronged with mules and donkeys bringing the produce of
the interior to the shipping centre; and the crush of animals had been
carefully modified by the arrangements instituted by Colonel Warren; who
had established a large walled court; or stable…yard; into which all
empty mules and asses were driven; instead of being allowed to block the
thoroughfare; each beast paid some trifle for this accommodation; which
added to the fund for municipal improvements。
The public offices were very inferior; that of the chief commissioner
himself being a small white…washed room; which exhibited an utter
disregard of personal comfort in the interests of government economy。
There is a curious old fort within the town which has been altered and
added to until it has become an absurdity; this would be utterly useless
as a defence; and the Turkish guns having been removed; it is now
converted into a prison; beneath the ground there are dungeons which are
no longer used。
The roadstead of Limasol is formed by the projection of the Akrotiri
peninsula; which affords protection from the west and south…west; but it
is directly exposed from the east to the south。 The anchorage is safe;
with good holding…ground in ten fathoms。 The peculiar shaped peninsula
of Akrotiri is about seven miles wide; and the lake in its centre; when
full; has a width of about four miles; but during the exhaustive heat of
summer it evaporates to the dimensions of a mere pool; and leaves its
deserted bed encrusted with a deposit of salt。 This lake has no
connection with the sea; and its maximum depth is under three feet; the
salt is formed upon the same principle as that of the Lake of Larnaca;
and certainly not by the percolation of sea…water through the sand; as
the Limasol lake is considerably above the sea…level。 There is a
lighthouse at Cape Gatta; which can be seen at a distance of fifteen
miles; as from its elevated position the lamp is 190 feet above the sea。
From this point to Limasol the beach is low and sandy; and has always
been accepted as the most favourable point for a disembarkation of
troops。 With historical facts before us there is small excuse for the
blunder committed in landing our army of occupation; during the extreme
heat of July; at Larnaca instead of Limasol。 At the former port there is
not a tree to throw a shade; and the miserable aspect of the surrounding
country must have had a most depressing effect upon the nervous system
of officers and men; while at Limasol the country is agreeable and the
shady caroubs exist almost to the sea…shore; in numbers that would have
sheltered an army of three times the force represented。 I cannot
conceive of more deliberate cruelty inflicted upon all grades than an
unnecessary exposure to the burning summer sun of Cyprus in bell…tents;
when shady trees existed in so convenient a locality as Limasol。 If the
root of the offence could be traced it would probably be discovered that
the advice had been given by some persons interested in the possession
of property at Larnaca; where rents of houses rose from nil to a
fabulous amount upon the disembarkation of the troops。 Altogether this
military enterprise of occupation was effected with the usual British
confusion and lack of arrangement。
The commissariat of course broke down; although special pains had been
taken to supply the troops with luxuries that to a simple mind are
inconceivable; thus COPPER WARMING…PANS in great numbers were sent out!
As the thermometer was above 100 degrees Fahr。; these fiery furnaces
were hardly appreciated。 It is a reflection upon the want of resource
exhibited by the authorities that these peculiar utensils were not sent
out as regimental stew…pans; as there was a dearth of cooking…pots; and
the warming…pans might have added materially to the comforts of the
insides; instead of the outsides of the men; by reducing the
gutta…percha…like texture of Cyprian bullocks into a savoury stew。
Another comfort thoughtfully supplied by some more than usually insane
authority; who no doubt had passed a severe competitive examination; was
exhibited in countless coal…boxes of cast…iron! These curious devices
were about three feet six inches long by two feet and a half deep; and
the same in width。 To my ideas they were only suitable for gigantic
foot…pans or hip…baths; or as an aquarium for a young seal; but their
real object was to contain coal for the supply of the various tents!
What is to become of our country; exclaims the British taxpayer; if this
frightful waste is to continue? What traveller or explorer ever carried
with him a copper warming…pan and a gigantic coal…box; weighing nearly
two hundred pounds? And these useless abominations are to hamper the
operations of our troops; and to wear out our sailors in the labour of
the disembarkment of such disgraceful lumber! Should we unhappily in
some future political annexation send a military force to Spitzbergen;
we shall probably omit the warming…pans and fuel; but supply a shipload
of refrigerators and 〃Family Ice Machines。〃
A number of these cast…iron coal…boxes had been converted into cisterns
by Sir Garnet Wolseley; which surrounded the wooden Government House at
Lefkosia; and were kept full of water in case of fire。 So practical a
general would have been the first to condemn the palpable absurdity of
coal…boxes; even had coals been required; surely they could have been
laid upon the bare ground by the tent side; instead of causing the
inconvenience; labour; and ridicule of importing such outrageous
nonsense。
When the famous military invasions of Cyprus took place in historical
times there were certainly neither warming…pans nor coal…boxes; either
with Richard Coeur de Lion of England in 1191; or with the Turks under
Lala Mustafa in 1570。
Both these experienced warriors selected Limasol for the point of
disembarkation; and landed their troops and horses upon the sandy beach
in Akrotiri Bay。 Richard I。 was on his way to the third crusade; but his
fleet having been dispersed by a storm; several vessels had been driven
on the south coast of Cyprus; where; instead of receiving the
hospitality usually exhibited to shipwrecked mariners; his people were
robbed and thrown into prison at Limasol by the king; Isaac Comnenus。
One of the principal vessels of the fleet which conveyed Berengaria;
daughter of the King of Navarre; who was the betrothed of Richard and
was accompanied by his sister the Queen Dowager of Sicily; took shelter
in Akrotiri Bay and anchored。 It appears that the wily Isaac Comnenus
endeavoured to persuade the ladies to land; in the hope of effecting
their capture; and probably extorting a heavy ransom; but suspicion
being aroused; the ship set sail and was shortly met by Richard's own
vessel。
Upon hearing that his shipwrecked crews had been detained and imprisoned
Richard immediately steered for Limasol; and; with his well…known
impetuosity of character; lost