第 51 节
作者:双曲线      更新:2022-04-14 11:08      字数:9322
  appearance and organisation resembled a market…place in England。 The
  various open places within the town; instead of being receptacles for
  filth; as is usual throughout the East; had been carefully planted with
  young trees; most of which were exhibiting their first spring shoots and
  leaves。 The quay which faced the sea; although exposed to the
  undermining action of the waves; had been repaired and was in fair
  condition; from this a tolerable pier projected; upon which piles of
  goods were being disembarked from the steamer that had just arrived from
  Larnaca。 Two small tugs ran upon alternate days; thus affording
  facilities for passengers and goods between Limasol and Larnaca; which
  was a great convenience recently established to avoid the difficulty of
  the roadless land journey。 H。M。S。 Torch was in the roadstead; together
  with about twenty vessels of various flags and tonnage。 Some of these
  were loading wine for Trieste; and it was interesting to watch the
  system adopted to save the difficulty of embarking the heavy casks in
  lighters; in the absence of cranes or winches。 The barrels when full
  were slightly inferior in weight to their displacement of sea…water;
  they accordingly floated almost level with the surface; and were formed
  into a chain of two casks abreast and about fifty yards in length。 Thus
  arranged; they were towed by boats until alongside the vessel; when they
  were easily hoisted up on board。 As boats could not lie against the
  perpendicular wall of the quay except during a perfect calm; there was
  considerable trouble in carrying on the commerce of the port according
  to modern requirements; but the inventions of necessity had simplified
  many difficulties at the expense of increased manual labour。 Boats lay a
  few yards off the shore; and were loaded by men who walked shoulder…
  deep with the packages upon their heads。 I saw lighters discharging
  planks and baulks of timber; by shooting them into the sea with
  sufficient force to follow the direction given towards the shore; while
  the receivers stood in the water to capture them upon arrival。
  The shops and stores along the quay…face closely resemble those of
  Larnaca; but there was more activity among the people。 The streets of
  the bazaar were thronged with mules and donkeys bringing the produce of
  the interior to the shipping centre; and the crush of animals had been
  carefully modified by the arrangements instituted by Colonel Warren; who
  had established a large walled court; or stable…yard; into which all
  empty mules and asses were driven; instead of being allowed to block the
  thoroughfare; each beast paid some trifle for this accommodation; which
  added to the fund for municipal improvements。
  The public offices were very inferior; that of the chief commissioner
  himself being a small white…washed room; which exhibited an utter
  disregard of personal comfort in the interests of government economy。
  There is a curious old fort within the town which has been altered and
  added to until it has become an absurdity; this would be utterly useless
  as a defence; and the Turkish guns having been removed; it is now
  converted into a prison; beneath the ground there are dungeons which are
  no longer used。
  The roadstead of Limasol is formed by the projection of the Akrotiri
  peninsula; which affords protection from the west and south…west; but it
  is directly exposed from the east to the south。 The anchorage is safe;
  with good holding…ground in ten fathoms。 The peculiar shaped peninsula
  of Akrotiri is about seven miles wide; and the lake in its centre; when
  full; has a width of about four miles; but during the exhaustive heat of
  summer it evaporates to the dimensions of a mere pool; and leaves its
  deserted bed encrusted with a deposit of salt。 This lake has no
  connection with the sea; and its maximum depth is under three feet; the
  salt is formed upon the same principle as that of the Lake of Larnaca;
  and certainly not by the percolation of sea…water through the sand; as
  the Limasol lake is considerably above the sea…level。 There is a
  lighthouse at Cape Gatta; which can be seen at a distance of fifteen
  miles; as from its elevated position the lamp is 190 feet above the sea。
  From this point to Limasol the beach is low and sandy; and has always
  been accepted as the most favourable point for a disembarkation of
  troops。 With historical facts before us there is small excuse for the
  blunder committed in landing our army of occupation; during the extreme
  heat of July; at Larnaca instead of Limasol。 At the former port there is
  not a tree to throw a shade; and the miserable aspect of the surrounding
  country must have had a most depressing effect upon the nervous system
  of officers and men; while at Limasol the country is agreeable and the
  shady caroubs exist almost to the sea…shore; in numbers that would have
  sheltered an army of three times the force represented。 I cannot
  conceive of more deliberate cruelty inflicted upon all grades than an
  unnecessary exposure to the burning summer sun of Cyprus in bell…tents;
  when shady trees existed in so convenient a locality as Limasol。 If the
  root of the offence could be traced it would probably be discovered that
  the advice had been given by some persons interested in the possession
  of property at Larnaca; where rents of houses rose from nil to a
  fabulous amount upon the disembarkation of the troops。 Altogether this
  military enterprise of occupation was effected with the usual British
  confusion and lack of arrangement。
  The commissariat of course broke down; although special pains had been
  taken to supply the troops with luxuries that to a simple mind are
  inconceivable; thus COPPER WARMING…PANS in great numbers were sent out!
  As the thermometer was above 100 degrees Fahr。; these fiery furnaces
  were hardly appreciated。 It is a reflection upon the want of resource
  exhibited by the authorities that these peculiar utensils were not sent
  out as regimental stew…pans; as there was a dearth of cooking…pots; and
  the warming…pans might have added materially to the comforts of the
  insides; instead of the outsides of the men; by reducing the
  gutta…percha…like texture of Cyprian bullocks into a savoury stew。
  Another comfort thoughtfully supplied by some more than usually insane
  authority; who no doubt had passed a severe competitive examination; was
  exhibited in countless coal…boxes of cast…iron! These curious devices
  were about three feet six inches long by two feet and a half deep; and
  the same in width。 To my ideas they were only suitable for gigantic
  foot…pans or hip…baths; or as an aquarium for a young seal; but their
  real object was to contain coal for the supply of the various tents!
  What is to become of our country; exclaims the British taxpayer; if this
  frightful waste is to continue? What traveller or explorer ever carried
  with him a copper warming…pan and a gigantic coal…box; weighing nearly
  two hundred pounds? And these useless abominations are to hamper the
  operations of our troops; and to wear out our sailors in the labour of
  the disembarkment of such disgraceful lumber! Should we unhappily in
  some future political annexation send a military force to Spitzbergen;
  we shall probably omit the warming…pans and fuel; but supply a shipload
  of refrigerators and 〃Family Ice Machines。〃
  A number of these cast…iron coal…boxes had been converted into cisterns
  by Sir Garnet Wolseley; which surrounded the wooden Government House at
  Lefkosia; and were kept full of water in case of fire。 So practical a
  general would have been the first to condemn the palpable absurdity of
  coal…boxes; even had coals been required; surely they could have been
  laid upon the bare ground by the tent side; instead of causing the
  inconvenience; labour; and ridicule of importing such outrageous
  nonsense。
  When the famous military invasions of Cyprus took place in historical
  times there were certainly neither warming…pans nor coal…boxes; either
  with Richard Coeur de Lion of England in 1191; or with the Turks under
  Lala Mustafa in 1570。
  Both these experienced warriors selected Limasol for the point of
  disembarkation; and landed their troops and horses upon the sandy beach
  in Akrotiri Bay。 Richard I。 was on his way to the third crusade; but his
  fleet having been dispersed by a storm; several vessels had been driven
  on the south coast of Cyprus; where; instead of receiving the
  hospitality usually exhibited to shipwrecked mariners; his people were
  robbed and thrown into prison at Limasol by the king; Isaac Comnenus。
  One of the principal vessels of the fleet which conveyed Berengaria;
  daughter of the King of Navarre; who was the betrothed of Richard and
  was accompanied by his sister the Queen Dowager of Sicily; took shelter
  in Akrotiri Bay and anchored。 It appears that the wily Isaac Comnenus
  endeavoured to persuade the ladies to land; in the hope of effecting
  their capture; and probably extorting a heavy ransom; but suspicion
  being aroused; the ship set sail and was shortly met by Richard's own
  vessel。
  Upon hearing that his shipwrecked crews had been detained and imprisoned
  Richard immediately steered for Limasol; and; with his well…known
  impetuosity of character; lost