第 36 节
作者:双曲线      更新:2022-04-14 11:08      字数:9322
  demoralised; and was withdrawn from this lonely position completely
  fever…smitten。 I made close inquiries among the natives; and all agreed
  that the past year; having been unusually wet; had been exceptionally
  unhealthy; and the inhabitants had suffered almost to the same degree as
  the Europeans。 It was painfully clear that when the rainfall was
  sufficiently plentiful to produce abundant harvests it at the same time
  ensured a crop of fevers。
  We remained ten days in our Kyrenia camp; and we were both sorry to
  leave; as the neighbourhood is exceedingly beautiful and full of
  interest; there is certainly no portion of Cyprus that can equal it in
  the picturesque; or in the extreme richness of genuine forest…trees and
  foliage。
  The town is small and most irregular: an old Turkish graveyard forms a
  boundary upon the outskirts opposite the fort; precisely similar in
  position to that of Famagousta。 Within 300 paces of this point are the
  principal houses; mostly well built of stone and surrounded by
  high…walled gardens fruitful in oranges; lemons; almonds; apricots;
  figs; and the fruits commonly known throughout the island。 The houses
  are generally one story above the ground…floor; with a wide balcony that
  forms an open face to the first…floor of five or six arches; which
  support the roof upon that side。 This is a convenient plan for the
  climate; as it admits fresh air to all the rooms which open into the
  balcony; in fact it is an open landing to the staircase。 A few
  date…palms ornament the gardens; the presence of these graceful trees
  being a sure sign of the preponderance of Turks in the population。
  The fort of Kyrenia is a great curiosity; as it forms a portion of the
  harbour; being situated like the nose in a pair of spectacles; the
  basins being the eyes right and left。 The actual defences are intact;
  although the inner accommodation for barracks; magazines; &c。; &c。;
  require great repairs and alteration。 The walls are of solid squared
  masonry; the stones jointed with the usual imperishable cement; and rise
  to the great perpendicular height of upwards of seventy feet sheer from
  the bottom of the fosse。 There is only one entrance; by a narrow bridge
  upon arches; across the extremely wide and deep ditch; terminating near
  the gateway by a drawbridge; which admits an entry in the face of the
  immense wall; with portcullis and iron…bound hinged gate。 The ramparts
  overlooking the town and harbour on the west face are 147 yards in
  length; exclusive of the tower; and the embrasures of solid masonry
  measured at the angle are generally twenty…four feet in thickness。 The
  fort is nearly square; and is flanked at each corner by a circular tower
  which would completely enfilade the ditch by several tiers of guns。 This
  powerful fortress is washed by the sea upon two sides (the north and
  east); and the foundations upon the native rock are protected from the
  action of the waves by reefs and huge fragments of natural detached
  masses which characterise this portion of the coast。 As I stood upon the
  parapet facing north I obtained an admirable view of the original
  harbours to my left and right; and although they could never have
  admitted large vessels; I was struck by the great importance of this
  sole place of refuge upon the northern coast of Cyprus; which in former
  times had suggested such a formidable arrangement for defence。 The fort
  was constructed by the Venetians; but there are fallen masses of much
  older works that now lie at the foot of the sea…face; and add to the
  natural reefs in defending the foundations from the breaking water。
  The style of this fortress suggests a date anterior to Famagousta; as it
  is devoid of cavaliers and depends for its defence upon the simple
  flanking fire of the four towers and the great height and thickness of
  the walls。 It is supplied with fresh water by an aqueduct; and is
  provided with immense reservoirs of masonry to contain a sufficient
  quantity during a prolonged siege; when the outer aqueduct might be
  destroyed by the enemy。 There are extensive subterranean caves and
  dungeons; but these have not yet been explored。 Above this fine old
  specimen of Venetian fortifications; upon the high platform of the tower
  facing the harbour; was a flag…staff; upon which a small bundle of rags
  fluttered in the strong wind; as though they; had been arranged to
  frighten the jackdaws from building within the crevices of masonry。 It
  appeared that this miserable remnant of tattered bunting had once
  represented a British Union Jack! and the colourless; poverty…stricken
  thing flapped and cracked as it tore itself into the finest threads of
  misery in the gale; too truly representing the result of our ambiguous
  position according to the terms of the Cyprian occupation。 I felt
  ashamed that such an exhibition should meet the eye of any foreign ship
  upon entering the harbour of Kyrenia; and I was informed 〃that it was
  the only flag that was possessed by the authorities。〃 As all the revenue
  of the island was handed over to the Porte excepting a bagatelle
  insufficient for the requirements of the country; the really overworked
  and energetic servants of the Crown were absolutely obliged to practise
  a most rigid economy; commencing with their own salaries; equally
  vexatious to themselves and unworthy of our high position。
  The curious collection of old cannon had all been removed by the Turks;
  but one iron piece remained; which; being almost worthless as metal; had
  been left behind when the bronze guns had been shipped to
  Constantinople。 This was a great curiosity; as it somewhat resembled a
  hand…bell about five feet in length; the bell which formed the mouth to
  receive the ball was only two feet in length; although the muzzle was
  sufficiently wide to admit the stone projectile of nineteen inches
  diameter。 The portion which resembled the handle of a bell was the
  continuation which formed the narrow chamber for the powder; this was
  about three feet long and eight inches thick*。 (*These measurements are
  from memory; excepting the diameter of muzzle; which I took on the
  spot。) There were no trunnions to this singular old gun; but it may have
  been lashed to some lever which could be raised or depressed; and it was
  evidently intended for firing into shipping from the fort walls; to
  command the harbour at a short range。 It had been cast with concentric
  rings; which I examined carefully; as at first I imagined they had been
  wrought…iron shrunk on to the casting: this was not the case; but the
  extra thickness of metal at the rings added sufficient strength。 The
  large stone shot; formed of a peculiarly hard metamorphous rock (a
  conglomerate of matter that had been fused by heat); were to be seen in
  various positions within the fortress。 A few were on the parapet above
  the drawbridge; as though prepared for rolling over upon an assaulting
  party。 I found this quality of rock upon the mountains within two miles
  of Kyrenia。
  There were evidently two harbours; which included the small bay upon
  either side of the present fort; that upon the west was the most
  important; as the depth of water is greater; and it shows evident signs
  of having received peculiar attention。 The remains of the ancient moles
  still exist; and afford considerable protection; but the sea has broken
  through in several places and washed away the upper tiers of stones。
  These moles were carefully constructed by laying the masonry upon a
  foundation of hydraulic cement; which connected the various natural
  rocks; the layer of cement still exists; while the squared blocks of the
  original surface may be seen at the bottom; where they have been
  deposited by the waves。 Like all defensive works in historical
  countries; those of Kyrenia have undergone continual changes and
  modifications; as from time to time alterations may have been suggested
  by successful attacks。 In a ruined tower which; completely isolated
  within the sea; commanded the entrance of the harbour on the west; I
  observed that an ancient column of white marble from some old building
  has been used as a key to prevent the large squared stones from yielding
  to the constant vibration caused by the breaking waves。 Each tier of
  stones has been cut at the central edge to form a half…circle where the
  edges of the adjoining blocks were connected; those have been similarly
  shaped to produce a complete circle when faced together。 The squared
  stones in the lower and upper tiers have been perforated in a circle; so
  that when several courses of masonry were completed; the hole
  represented a shaft of about twelve inches diameter; sunk from top to
  bottom; the marble column has been inserted from the top; and has tied
  each course effectively together; the havoc occasioned in this tower of
  solid squared blocks is the work of man; the stones have until recently
  been removed for the purposes of building。
  Kyrenia could never have been a perfectly safe harbour in all weathers;
  as the entrance is open to the north。 There is a slight turn to the
  east; which might have protected a few small vessels during a northerly
  gale; but this portion is now silted up; and it should be cleared by
  dredging。 The houses rise above the harbour f