第 33 节
作者:双曲线      更新:2022-04-14 11:08      字数:9322
  same operation; the ditch of the citadel would be pumped dry; and all
  communication shut off from the sea; which now produces a stagnant and
  offensive pool; breeding only reeds; mosquitoes; and malaria。
  We now arrive at the most formidable origin of the Famagousta feverthe
  marshes caused by the overflow of the Pedias river。 The description that
  I have already given of the delta formed by the deposit of mud during
  inundations; and the total absence of any exit for the waters by a
  natural channel; will convey to the minds of the most inexperienced an
  extreme cause of danger。 I can see only one practicable method of
  surmounting this great difficulty。 The Pedias river must be conducted to
  the sea through an artificial channel; and it must (like the Rhone) be
  confined between raised banks of sufficient height to prevent any chance
  of overflow; and of a width arranged to produce a rapid current; that
  will scour the bed and carry the mud to deposit far beyond the shore。
  This work would be expensive; but; on the other hand; the collateral
  advantages would be great。 The land; which is now almost valueless;
  owing to the uncertainty of inundations; would be rendered fruitful; and
  by an arrangement of cattle…wheels the irrigation could always be
  ensured; as the water exists within five feet of the present surface。 At
  this moment; neither drains are made; nor any control of nature is
  exercised by the fever…stricken population; who trust entirely to the
  uncertain chances of the seasons。 We have an example in the original
  fens of Lincolnshire; which; by a system of drainage; have been brought
  into agricultural value; a series of large and deep open ditches; such
  as are seen in every marsh or river…meadow throughout England; would
  not only drain the surface of the Famagousta delta; but would supply the
  water; to be raised by cattle…lifts and wind…pumps; for the purposes of
  irrigation。 There is much work for the agricultural engineer; but if
  this important enterprise is seriously commenced the future results will
  well repay the outlay。
  Some persons have attributed the cause of unhealthiness to the existence
  of the trenches made by the Turks during the siege in 1571; which are
  considered to emit malarious exhalations。 I do not think so; all these
  low levels; surrounded by high banks which protect the crops from wind;
  are most carefully cultivated with beans; cereals; cotton; and garden
  produce; and I do not believe that successful gardens are malarious; but
  only those localities where water is allowed to become stagnant; in
  which case cultivation must be a failure。 Many of these rich bottoms
  were at one time valuable as 〃madder〃 grounds; and Consul White states
  that in 1863 good madder…root land at Famagousta was worth 90 pounds per
  acre。 It may not be generally known that the indelible dye called
  〃Turkey red〃 was formerly produced from the madder…root; but that it has
  been entirely superseded by the chemical invention known as 〃alizarine;〃
  which; by reducing the price in a ruinous degree; has driven the
  vegetable substance out of the market; and the madder is no longer
  cultivated。 This chemical discovery has lowered the rich; deep; sandy
  loams of Famagousta and of Morphu to a mere average agricultural value;
  and has completely destroyed an important local industry。
  The madder…root required three years before it arrived at maturity。 From
  Consul Riddell's report in 1872; the amount of madder exported reached
  330 tons; of which 250 tons were shipped for Great Britain。 The same
  authority reports in 1873; 〃The falling…off; however; in the quantity
  sent to Great Britain is remarkable; being only 230 cwts。 (11。5 tons)。〃
  This disappearance of a special agricultural industry has been an
  enormous loss to the proprietors of the madder…lands。
  The fruit…orchards and gardens of Famagousta are the finest in the
  island。 The land is extremely rich; and of a bright chocolate colour;
  but the trees are; as usual in Cyprus; planted too close to each other;
  which interferes with the necessary light and circulation of air。 These
  gardens commence just outside the walls; and; running parallel with the
  sea below the large village of Varoschia; extend for about two miles
  along the shore。 Oranges; lemons; pomegranates; apricots; figs; prickly
  pears and mulberry…trees; are the chief products; and it was here that
  we obtained the largest and best oranges that I had tasted in the
  island; generally this fruit is much inferior to the varieties imported
  into England。 The pomegranates of Cyprus are very celebrated; and are
  exported to Egypt; but it is a fruit that is not generally appreciated
  by Europeans。 There are extensive gardens inland; but they do not convey
  the idea of 〃gardens〃 as understood by Englishmen; but are merely dense
  groves of various fruit…trees; irrigated by a cattle…wheel; and planted
  with an utter disregard of all taste or arrangement。
  The large village; or town of Varoschia is an important adjunct to
  Famagousta; from which it is hardly separated。 It was originally founded
  by the Venetian Christians; who were expelled from Famagousta after the
  Turkish conquest。 There is a large Greek Church; extensive bazaars; and
  several manufactures of pottery; for which the locality is celebrated。
  We saw a vessel loading in the harbour entirely with thesejars;
  water…bottles; dishes; &c。but the earthen…ware is of a coarse
  description; and the quality of the clay does not admit of sufficient
  porosity for the purpose of cooling water or of filtering; like the
  Egyptian ware; at the same time it is not sufficiently impervious for
  the retention of wine or oil without a considerable loss by absorption。
  Varoschia has been always celebrated for a large production of a high
  quality of silk; but the quantity has fallen off; as in all other parts
  of the island。 There are some good houses in this thriving and busy
  little town; and it is said that decent accommodation may be had; but I
  preferred the cleanliness and independence of our own tent。
  Varoschia is not much healthier than Famagousta; as it suffers from the
  same cause; in addition to an enormous accumulation of filth on the
  heights at the rear of the town。 If this were carefully stored to manure
  the numerous gardens; it would be profitably utilised; but it belongs to
  nobody in particular; and is a public nuisance。 A fine should be
  inflicted upon the municipal authorities in the sanitary interests of
  the population; and the refuse of the neighbourhood should be
  periodically collected into heaps and burned。 Captain Inglis and the
  various British officials moved their quarters from Famagousta to the
  healthy village of Derinia; about three miles distant; during our stay
  near Varoschia。 The new station is to the south…west of the port; and
  completely beyond the influence of the marshes; the elevation being
  about 250 feet above the sea。 Should this locality become a permanently
  healthy settlement; the sanitary difficulty of our position will be
  considerably modified; as the troops might be quartered at Derinia in
  time of peace; and even during war they would be immediately within
  call。
  A lake exists about three miles inland from Famagousta; which is between
  four and five miles in circumference; the water is fresh; but
  exceedingly shallow and impure; the edges covered with high reeds; which
  extend for several hundred yards from the shore。 This lake swarms with
  varieties of water…fowl; which can only be shot by wading and waiting
  concealed in the high cover of rushes and tamarisk; as they are
  exceedingly wary。 Commander Hammond; of H。M。S。 Torch; bagged thirty…five
  ducks to his own gun upon one occasion; by thus challenging the fever
  and remaining hip…deep in the muddy water for some hours。 I did not feel
  disposed to risk the chances of malaria; as the effluvium from the mud
  was sufficiently offensive even when walking round the margin; and I
  already felt some warning symptoms of the heavy atmosphere of
  Famagousta; which might; if neglected; have terminated in ague。 I shot a
  fine specimen of the glossy ibis; and I otherwise contented myself with
  watching the variety of ducks; coots; teal; and other water…fowl through
  my glass; as they enjoyed themselves in flocks upon the surface of the
  lake at a great distance。
  Having exhausted the sights of Famagousta; we started on the 22nd of
  March for Kuklia; twelve miles distant; where we had left our vans in
  charge of the headman during our absence in the Carpas country。 Upon our
  arrival we found them untouched or unharmed; and we were met not only by
  the headman himself; but by our two bullock…drivers Georgi and Theodori;
  who had come from Lithrankomi。 Georgi had recovered from the despair
  which had overpowered him when we last parted; and he was almost
  triumphant when he related the success of his mission to Gallibornu with
  the mysterious paper written in English; that I had given him in order
  to terrify the purchaser of his bullock。 He had exhibited this
  awe…inspiring epistle; which nobody could either read or understand; and
  Georgi had taken advantage of his opportunity to threaten the sharp
  cattle…dealer with a long list of imaginary punishments that woul