their　birth　are　brought　by　their　hopeful　mothers　to　receive　something
  from　your　medicine…chest　that　will　restore　them　to　strength。　It　was　in
  vain　that　I　explained　to　these　afflicted　people　that　spleen…disease
  required　a　long　course　of　medicine；　and　could　not　be　cured　in　a　day。　It
  was　equally　in　vain　that　I　assured　them　that　raw　vegetables　were
  unwholesome　for　children；　and　that　sea…bathing　was　invigorating　to　the
  system：　they　hated　bathing；　so　did　the　children；　and　they　liked　raw
  vegetables。　I　was　obliged　to　give　them　some　trifle　which　could　neither
  do　harm　nor　good；　and　they　went　away　contented。
  I　now　discovered　from　the　head…men　of　the　village　the　cause　of　the　wreck
  which　was　lying　in　the　bay。　An　Austrian　steamer　was　conveying　1200
  Circassians　from　Constantinople　to　some　port　on　the　coast　of　Asia　Minor；
  when　the　wild　horde　of　emigrants　mutinied　and　threatened　to　murder　the
  chief　officers。　The　captain　accordingly　ran　the　vessel　ashore　upon　this
  coast；　having　ordered　the　engineer　to　blow　up　the　boilers。
  A　great　number　of　the　mutineers　perished　in　the　attempt　to　land；　but　the
  captain　and　officers　were　hospitably　received　by　the　people　of
  Volokalida　and　forwarded　to　Famagousta。　The　vessel　was　pierced　amidships
  by　a　rock　that　had　completely　impaled　her；　otherwise　she　might　have　been
  saved　and　repaired。
  We　left　this　village　on　March　4th；　a　heavy　but　welcome　shower　on　the
  preceding　day　having　laid　the　dust　and　freshened　the　vegetation。　The
  route　lay　through　a　hilly　and　rocky　country　covered　with　the　usual
  evergreens。　We　quickly　lost　our　way　and　arrived　at　a　complete　cul…de…sac
  in　the　corner　of　a　narrow　swampy　valley。　Retracing　our　steps　we　met　two
  men　mounted　on　donkeys；　who　with　extreme　civility　turned　from　their　own
  direction　and　became　our　guides。　We　passed　over　a　hill　of　solid
  crystallised　gypsum；　which　sparkled　in　the　sun　like　glass；　and　after　a
  march　of　about　ten　miles　through　a　lovely　country　we　ascended　to　the
  plateau　of　Lithrankomi　and　halted　at　the　monastery。　The　priest　was　an
  agreeable；　well…mannered　man；　and　as　rain　had　begun　to　fall　he　insisted
  upon　our　accepting　his　invitation　to　await　the　arrival　of　our　luggage
  under　his　roof。　We　visited　his　curious　old　church；　which　is　sadly　out　of
  repair；　and　the　mosaic；　of　a　coarse　description；　which　covered　an　arched
  ceiling；　has　mostly　disappeared。
  This　was　the　most　agreeable　position　that　I　had　seen　in　Cyprus。　A　very
  extensive　plateau　about　400　feet　above　the　sea　formed　a　natural　terrace
  for　seven　or　eight　miles；　backed　by　the　equally　flat　hill…tops　which
  rose　only　half　a　mile　behind　the　monastery。　These　were　covered　with　the
  Pinus　Maritima；　none　of　which　exceeded　twenty　feet　in　height；　and
  resembled　a　thriving　young　plantation　in　England。　From　the　flat
  pine…covered　tableland　I　had　a　very　beautiful　view　of　the　sea　on　either
  side　this　narrow　portion　of　the　island；　and　of　the　richly…wooded　slopes
  both　north　and　south；　cut　by　deep　and　dark　water…riven　gorges；　with
  white　cliffs　which　descended　to　the　shore。　Villages　and　snow…white
  churches　lay　beneath　in　all　directions；　and　the　crops　had　a　far　more
  favourable　appearance　than　those　of　the　Messaria；　as　this　portion　of　the
  country　had　experienced　a　superior　rainfall。
  It　is　much　to　be　regretted　that　the　total　absence　of　roads　excludes　this
  district　from　general　communication。　We　were　struck　by　the　fantastic
  scenery　of　deep　ravines；　rocks　covered　with　evergreens　of　varying
  colours；　and　handsome　caroub…trees　which　would　have　ornamented　an
  English　park；　mulberry…trees　were　very　numerous；　but　at　this　season　they
  were　barren　of　leaves；　the　only　want　lay　in　the　absence　of　oranges　and
  lemons；　which　the　priest　assured　me　would　not　thrive　in　this　locality。
  For　the　last　two　months　I　had　cordially　detested　Cyprus；　but　I　was　now
  converted　to　a　belief　that　some　portions　of　the　country　were　thoroughly
  enjoyable；　provided　that　a　traveller　could　be　contented　with　rough　fare
  and　be　accustomed　to　the　happy　independence　of　a　camp…life　with　a　good
  tent　and　hardy　servants。　The　temperature　was　a　little　too　low　for
  out…door　existence；　as　it　averaged　48　degrees　at　7　A。M。　and　54　degrees
  at　3　P。M。；　which　is　the　hottest　hour　of　the　day；　but　we　were　all　well；
  and　free　from　colds；　the　servants　had　plenty　of　warm　blankets；　and　the
  false　floor　that　I　had　arranged　added　greatly　to　their　comfort　when
  camping　upon　the　sodden　ground。
  I　had　become　convinced　that　〃the　man　of　ability〃　Theodori　had　deceived
  me；　and　that　it　would　be　impossible　for　the　two…wheeled　carts；　or　any
  other　conveyance；　to　travel　through　this　country。　Our　last　two　marches
  had　proved　that　not　only　would　the　delay　be　serious；　but　the　luggage
  would　be　destroyed　by　the　extreme　jolting　over　rocks　and　ruts；　which　had
  already　injured　several　of　our　boxes　and　broken　some　useful　articles。
  Every　package　seemed　to　assume　an　individual　vitality　and　to　attack　its
  neighbour；　the　sharp…cornered　metal　boxes　endeavoured　to　tunnel　through
  the　cases　of　wine　and　liquors；　which　in　retaliation　bumped　against　and
  bruised　their　antagonists；　and　a　few　marches　had　already　caused　more
  mischief　than　a　twelvemonth's　journey　by　camels。　The　priest　assured　me
  that　it　would　be　madness　to　attempt　a　march　beyond　Gallibornu；　about
  eleven　miles　in　advance；　and　that　he　doubted　the　possibility　of　the
  carts　reaching　that　point；　which　certainly　had　never　been　visited　by　any
  wheeled　conveyances。　The　honest；　strong；　but　unintelligent　driver　Georgi
  was　innocent；　and　he　was　at　the　time　as　ignorant　as　myself　that　the　true
  object　of　the　〃man　of　ability〃　Theodori　was　to　deal　in　cattle；　which　was
  his　reason　for　persisting　in　accompanying　me　into　the　Carpas　country　and
  declaring　that　the　route　was　practicable　for　carts。　We　left　Lithrankomi
  on　5th　March　after　a　shower　which　made　the　earth　slippery　and　the
  dangerous　portions　of　the　route　rather　exciting　for　the　carts。　The　first
  two　or　three　miles　lay　along　the　level　terrace　commanding　a　splendid
  view　of　the　sea　about　four　miles　distant。　We　passed　through　several
  villages；　and　the　crops　looked　well。　At　length　we　emerged　upon　a　wild
  portion　of　the　plateau　which　resembled　a　park；　the　surface　being　green
  and　diversified　by　ornamental　clumps　of　evergreens；　upon　our　left　was
  the　cliff…like　higher　terrace　which　formed　the　table…top　from　which　the
  usual　huge　blocks　had　been　detached　and　fallen　like　inverted　cottages　to
  the　lower　level。　The　view　on　our　right　was　exceedingly　interesting；　as
  we　had　now　arrived　upon　the　extreme　verge　of　the　terrace；　which　broke
  down　suddenly　into　a　horseshoe…shaped　amphitheatre；　the　steep　sides
  covered　with　bushes　and　trees；　to　the　bottom　of　a　valley　some　300　feet
  below；　which　drained　through　a　narrow　and　richly…wooded　gorge　into　the
  neighbouring　sea。
  This　scooping…out　of　the　country　was　due　to　the　action　of　water；　and　the
  same　process　was　gradually　wearing　away　the　upper　plateaux；　which　by
  absorbing　rain　became　undermined　as　it　percolated　through　and　dissolved
  the　marly　substratum。　The　foundation　of　the　rock　surface　being　softened
  by　the　water；　oozed　in　the　form　of　mud；　and　was　washed　down　the　steep
  declivities；　followed　by　the　breaking…down　of　the　unsupported　upper
  stratum。　This　district　was　an　admirable　illustration　of　the　decay　and
  denudation　of　surface　which　has　produced　the　plain　of　Messaria；　to　which
  I　have　already　alluded；　but　as　no　sufficient　area　exists　at　a　lower
  level　the　deposit　of　soil　is　carried　to　the　sea。　We　now　arrived　at　a
  dangerous　pass　that　defied　all　attempts　to　descend　by　carts。　A
  succession　of　zigzags　at　an　inclination　of　about　one　foot　in　two　and　a
  half　led　down　the　soil　of　a　cliff　into　a　succession　of　exceedingly
  narrow　valleys　about　three　hundred　feet　below。　In　many　places　this
  narrow　path　had　been　washed　away　by　the　same　natural　process　that　was
  gradually　reducing　the　upper　level；　and　in　the　sharp　angles　of　the
  zigzags　there　were　awkward　gaps　with　only　a　few　inches　of　slippery　soil
  rendered　soapy　by　the　morning's　rain；　a　slip　of　the　original　path　having
  crumbled　down　the　precipice　below。　The　animals　were　wonderfully　careful；
  and　although　a　nervous　person　might　have　shuddered　at　some　awkward
  points；　both　mule　and　ponies　were　thoroughly　self…confident　and　safely
  carried　us　to　the　bottom。　But　the　carts？　These　were　making　a　circuit　of
  some　miles　across　country　in　the　endeavour　to　discover　a　practicable
  route。
  Although　the　way　was　difficult；　it　was　the　more　agreeable　as　the　scenery
  was　extremely　picturesque。　The　narrow　valleys　were　without　exception
  cultivated；　which　formed　a　striking　contrast　to　the　exceedingly　wild
  heights　by　which　they　were　surrounded；　and　I　remarked　that　not　a　yard　of
  available　land　was　neglected；　but　that　small　and　precipitous　hollows
  were　banked　by　rough　stone　walls；　to　retain　the　soil　that　would
  otherwise　be　washed　away；　and　to　form　terraces　of　insignificant　extent
  for　the　sake　of　cultivation。　Our　animals　could　amble　at　five　or　six
  miles　an　hour　along　these　narrow　bottoms；　which　made　up　for　the　delay　in
  descending　the　bad　places。　My　dogs　were　in　the　best　spirits；　as　they　had
  moved　a　considerable　number　of　partridges　during　this　morning's　march；
  and　they　heard　the　peculiar　loud　〃chuck…a…chuck；　chuck