Cyprus；　as　I　Saw　it　in　1879
  by　Sir　Samuel　W。　Baker
  CONTENTS
  INTRODUCTION
  CHAPTER　I。　　　　　　ARRIVAL　AT　LARNACA
  CHAPTER　II。　　　　　THE　GIPSY…VANS　ENCOUNTER　DIFFICULTIES
  CHAPTER　III。　　　　ROUTE　TO　NICOSIA
  CHAPTER　IV。　　　　　THE　MESSARIA
  CHAPTER　V。　　　　　　START　FOR　THE　CARPAS
  CHAPTER　VI。　　　　　CAPE　ST。　ANDREA
  CHAPTER　VII。　　　　KYRENIA　AND　THE　NORTH　COAST
  CHAPTER　VIII。　　　ROUTE　TO　BAFFO
  CHAPTER　IX。　　　　　FROM　BAFFO　TO　LIMASOL
  CHAPTER　X。　　　　　　THE　WINE　DISTRICT　OF　LIMASOL
  CHAPTER　XI。　　　　　FROM　LIMASOL　TO　THE　MOUNTAINS
  CHAPTER　XII。　　　　THE　MONASTERY　OF　TROODITISSA
  CHAPTER　XIII。　　　WOODS　AND　FORESTS
  CHAPTER　XIV。　　　　REMARKS　ON　IRRIGATION
  CHAPTER　XV。　　　　　LIFE　AT　THE　MONASTERY　OF　TROODITISSA
  CHAPTER　XVI。　　　　SOMETHING　ABOUT　TAXATION
  CHAPTER　XVII。　　　THE　DISTRICT　OF　LIMASOL　AND　LANDOWNERS
  CHAPTER　XVIII。　　ON　POLICE；　WAGES；　FOOD；　CLIMATE；　ETC。
  CHAPTER　XIX。　　　　POLITICAL　REFLECTIONS
  CHAPTER　XX。　　　　　CONCLUSION
  APPENDIX
  INTRODUCTION。
  I　do　not　intend　to　write　a　history　of　Cyprus；　as　authorities　already
  exist　that　are　well　known；　but　were　generally　neglected　until　the
  British　occupation　rescued　them　from　secluded　bookshelves。　Even　had　I
  presumed　to　write　as　a　historian；　the　task　would　have　been　impossible；
  as　I　am　at　this　moment　excluded　from　the　world　in　the　precincts　of　the
  monastery　of　Trooditissa　among　the　heights　of　ancient　Olympus　or　modern
  Troodos；　where　books　of　reference　are　unknown；　and　the　necessary　data
  would　be　wanting。　I　shall　recount　my　personal　experience　of　this　island
  as　an　independent　traveller；　unprejudiced　by　political　considerations；
  and　unfettered　by　the　responsible　position　of　an　official。　Having
  examined　Cyprus　in　every　district；　and　passed　not　only　a　few　days；　but
  winter；　spring；　and　summer　in　testing　the　climatic　and　geographical
  peculiarities　of　the　country；　I　shall　describe　〃Cyprus　as　I　saw　it　in
  1879；〃　expressing　the　opinions　which　I　formed　upon　the　spot　with　the
  results　of　my　experience。
  Although　I　have　read　many　works　upon　this　island；　I　have　no　books　with
  me　except　that　interesting　record　of　the　discovery　of　antiquities　by
  General　di　Cesnola；　and　the　invaluable　compilation　for　the　Intelligence
  Branch；　Quartermaster…General's　Department；　Horse　Guards；　by　Captain
  Savile；　18th　Royal　Irish　Regiment。　It　is　impossible　to　praise　the　latter
  work　too　highly；　as　every　authority；　whether　ancient　or　modern；　has　been
  studied；　and　the　information　thus　carefully　collected　has　been　classed
  under　special　headings　and　offered　to　the　reader　in　a　concise　and
  graphic　form　which　renders　it　perfect　as　a　book　of　reference。　I　must
  express　my　deep　appreciation　of　the　assistance　that　I　have　derived　from
  Captain　Savile's　work；　as　it　has　directed　my　attention　to　many　subjects
  that　might　have　escaped　my　observation；　and　it　has　furnished　me　with
  dates；　consular　reports；　and　other　statistical　information　that　would
  otherwise　have　been　difficult　to　obtain。　The　study　of　M。　Gaudrey's　able
  report　to　the　French　government　upon　the　agricultural　resources　and　the
  geological　features　of　Cyprus；　before　I　commenced　my　journey；　guided　me
  materially　in　the　interesting　observations　of　the　various　formations　and
  terrestrial　phenomena。　The　experiences　of　the　late　British　Consul；　Mr。
  Hamilton　Lang；　described　in　his　attractive　volume；　together　with　those
  of　Von　Loher；　Doctors　Unger　and　Kotschy；　have　afforded　me　an　advantage
  in　following　upon　footsteps　through　a　well…examined　field　of　discovery。
  Before　I　enter　upon　a　description　of　my　personal　examination　of　the
  island；　it　will　be　advisable　to　trace　a　brief　outline　of　the
  geographical　position　of　Cyprus；　which　caused　its　early　importance　in
  the　history　of　the　human　race；　and　which　has　been　accepted　by　the
  British　government　as　sufficiently　unchanged　to　warrant　a　military
  occupation　in　1878；　as　a　strategical　point　that　dominates　the　eastern
  portion　of　the　Mediterranean；　and　supplies　the　missing　link　in　the　chain
  of　fortified　ports　from　England　to　the　shores　of　Egypt。
  In　the　world's　infancy　oceans　were　unknown　seas　upon　which　the　vessels
  of　the　ancients　rarely　ventured　beyond　the　sight　of　land；　without　the
  compass　the　interminable　blue　water　was　a　terrible　wilderness　full　of
  awe　and　wonder。　The　Phoenicians；　who　first　circumnavigated　Africa　by
  passing　through　the　then　existing　canal　between　Suez　and　the　Nile；
  coasted　the　whole　voyage；　as　did　in　later　years　the　famous　Portuguese；
  Vasco　di　Gama；　and　stations　were　formed　along　the　shores　at　convenient
  intervals。　Hanno　the　Carthaginian　coasted　to　an　uncertain　and　contested
  point　upon　the　western　shores　of　Africa；　but　no　ocean　commercial　port
  was　known　to　have　existed　in　the　early　days　of　maritime　adventure。　The
  Mediterranean　offered　peculiar　advantages　of　physical　geography；　its
  great　length　and　comparatively　narrow　width　embraced　a　vast　area；　at　the
  same　time　that　it　afforded　special　facilities　for　commerce　in　the
  numerous　ports　and　islands　that　would　form　a　refuge　in　stress　of
  weather。
  The　countries　which　surrounded　this　great　inland　sea　were　rich；　the
  climate　throughout　its　course　combined　the　temperate　with　almost
  tropical；　according　to　the　changes　of　seasons；　accordingly；　the
  productions　of　the　earth　varying　upon　the　northern　and　southern　coasts；
  were　all　that　could　be　required　for　the　necessities　of　the　human　race。
  In　this　happily　situated　position　commerce　was　first　cradled；　and　by　the
  interchange　of　ideas　and　natural　productions；　artificial　wants　were
  mutually　created　among　the　various　countries　around　the　great　sea
  margin；　the　supply　of　these　new　requirements　and　exchange　of　commodities
  established　trade。　With　the　development　of　commerce；　wealth　and
  prosperity　increased；　nations　became　important　through　the　possession　of
  superior　harbours　and　geographical　positions；　and　the　entire　maritime
  strength　and　commercial　activity　of　the　ancient　world　was　represented　by
  the　Mediterranean。　The　Phoenicians　of　Tyre　and　Sidon　were　the　English　of
  to…day；　the　Egyptians　and　the　Greeks　were　followed　as　the　world　grew
  older　by　the　Venetians　and　Genoese；　and　throughout　the　world's　history
  no　point　possessed　a　more　constant　and　unchangeable　attraction　from　its
  geographical　position　and　natural　advantages　than　the　island　of　Cyprus；
  which　in　turn　was　occupied　by　Phoenicians；　Greeks；　Egyptians；　Persians；
  Romans；　Byzantine　rulers；　Saracens；　Byzantine　rulers　again；　English；
  Lusignans；　Venetians；　Turks；　and　once　more　English　in　1878。
  The　advantages　which　had　thus　possessed　a　magnetic　influence　in
  attracting　towards　this　island　the　leading　nations　of　the　world　were　in
  ancient　days　undeniable。　When　vessels　directed　their　course　only　by
  well…known　landmarks；　or　by　the　position　of　certain　stars；　it　was　highly
  necessary　for　a　maritime　power　to　occupy　a　continuous　chain　of　stations；
  where；　in　case　of　danger　from　a　superior　force；　a　place　of　refuge　would
  be　near。　Cyprus　from　its　peculiar　geographical　position　commanded　the
  eastern　portion　of　the　Mediterranean。　The　harbour　of　Famagousta　was　only
  a　few　hours'　sail；　with　a　favourable　wind；　to　the　coast　of　Asia　Minor。
  The　bays　of　Larnaca　and　Limasol　were　roadsteads　with　a　safe　anchorage；
  and　Paphos　（Baffo）　was　a　convenient　harbour　upon　the　south…western
  portion　of　the　island；　capable　of　protecting　a　considerable　number　of
  the　small　vessels　of　the　period。　Thus　Cyprus　possessed　two　harbours　upon
  the　south　coast　in　addition　to　good　roadsteads；　while　upon　the　north；
  Cerinea　（Kyrenia）　and　Soli；　although　never　large；　were　serviceable　ports
  of　refuge；　exactly　facing　the　coast　of　Caramania；　plainly　visible。　The
  lofty　mountains　of　the　Carpas　range　which　overhang　these　harbours
  command　the　sea　view　at　an　elevation　of　between　three　and　four　thousand
  feet；　from　which　the　approach　of　an　enemy　could　be　quickly　signalled；
  while　the　unmistakable　peaks　of　the　rugged　sky…line　formed　landmarks　by
  which　vessels　could　steer　direct　to　the　desired　ports。　The　same
  advantage　of　descrying　an　enemy　at　a　distance　from　the　shore　exists　in
  many　parts　of　Cyprus；　owing　to　the　position　of　the　heights；　and　the
  rocky　nature　of　the　coast　（with　the　exception　of　a　few　points　such　as
  Limasol；　Morphu　Bay；　&c。）；　rendered　the　landing　of　a　large　force
  extremely　difficult。　As　a　strategical　point；　there　was　no　more
  formidable　position　than　Cyprus；　it　formed　a　common　centre　within
  immediate　reach　of　Alexandria　and　all　the　coasts　of　Syria　and　Asia
  Minor。　It　was　not　only　a　military　place　d'armes；　such　as　Malta　and
  Gibraltar　now　are；　dependent　upon　maritime　superiority　for　the　necessary
  provisions；　but　it　was　a　country　of　large　area；　comprising　about　3500
  square　miles；　with　a　soil　of　unbounded　fertility　in　a　high　state　of
  cultivation；　a　population　sufficiently　numerous　for　all　requirements　of
  the　island；　and　forests　of　timber　that　was　in　great　request　for　the
  architect　and　ship…builder。　In　addition　to　these　natural　sources　of
  wealth；　the　mineral　productions　were　celebrated　from　the　earliest
  history；　and　the　copper　of　Cyprus　was　used　by　the　Phoenicians　in　the
  manufacture　of　their　celebrated　bronze。
  The　Chittim　wood　of　Scriptu