第 32 节
作者:阎王      更新:2022-03-20 20:46      字数:9322
  INCH KENNETH
  In the morning we went again into the boat; and were landed on Inch
  Kenneth; an Island about a mile long; and perhaps half a mile
  broad; remarkable for pleasantness and fertility。  It is verdant
  and grassy; and fit both for pasture and tillage; but it has no
  trees。  Its only inhabitants were Sir Allan Maclean and two young
  ladies; his daughters; with their servants。
  Romance does not often exhibit a scene that strikes the imagination
  more than this little desert in these depths of Western obscurity;
  occupied not by a gross herdsman; or amphibious fisherman; but by a
  gentleman and two ladies; of high birth; polished manners and
  elegant conversation; who; in a habitation raised not very far
  above the ground; but furnished with unexpected neatness and
  convenience; practised all the kindness of hospitality; and
  refinement of courtesy。
  Sir Allan is the Chieftain of the great clan of Maclean; which is
  said to claim the second place among the Highland families;
  yielding only to Macdonald。  Though by the misconduct of his
  ancestors; most of the extensive territory; which would have
  descended to him; has been alienated; he still retains much of the
  dignity and authority of his birth。  When soldiers were lately
  wanting for the American war; application was made to Sir Allan;
  and he nominated a hundred men for the service; who obeyed the
  summons; and bore arms under his command。
  He had then; for some time; resided with the young ladies in Inch
  Kenneth; where he lives not only with plenty; but with elegance;
  having conveyed to his cottage a collection of books; and what else
  is necessary to make his hours pleasant。
  When we landed; we were met by Sir Allan and the Ladies;
  accompanied by Miss Macquarry; who had passed some time with them;
  and now returned to Ulva with her father。
  We all walked together to the mansion; where we found one cottage
  for Sir Allan; and I think two more for the domesticks and the
  offices。  We entered; and wanted little that palaces afford。  Our
  room was neatly floored; and well lighted; and our dinner; which
  was dressed in one of the other huts; was plentiful and delicate。
  In the afternoon Sir Allan reminded us; that the day was Sunday;
  which he never suffered to pass without some religious distinction;
  and invited us to partake in his acts of domestick worship; which I
  hope neither Mr。 Boswell nor myself will be suspected of a
  disposition to refuse。  The elder of the Ladies read the English
  service。
  Inch Kenneth was once a seminary of ecclesiasticks; subordinate; I
  suppose; to Icolmkill。  Sir Allan had a mind to trace the
  foundations of the college; but neither I nor Mr。 Boswell; who
  bends a keener eye on vacancy; were able to perceive them。
  Our attention; however; was sufficiently engaged by a venerable
  chapel; which stands yet entire; except that the roof is gone。  It
  is about sixty feet in length; and thirty in breadth。  On one side
  of the altar is a bas relief of the blessed Virgin; and by it lies
  a little bell; which; though cracked; and without a clapper; has
  remained there for ages; guarded only by the venerableness of the
  place。  The ground round the chapel is covered with grave…stones of
  Chiefs and ladies; and still continues to be a place of sepulture。
  Inch Kenneth is a proper prelude to Icolmkill。  It was not without
  some mournful emotion that we contemplated the ruins of religious
  structures and the monuments of the dead。
  On the next day we took a more distinct view of the place; and went
  with the boat to see oysters in the bed; out of which the boat…men
  forced up as many as were wanted。  Even Inch Kenneth has a
  subordinate Island; named Sandiland; I suppose in contempt; where
  we landed; and found a rock; with a surface of perhaps four acres;
  of which one is naked stone; another spread with sand and shells;
  some of which I picked up for their glossy beauty; and two covered
  with a little earth and grass; on which Sir Allan has a few sheep。
  I doubt not but when there was a college at Inch Kenneth; there was
  a hermitage upon Sandiland。
  Having wandered over those extensive plains; we committed ourselves
  again to the winds and waters; and after a voyage of about ten
  minutes; in which we met with nothing very observable; were again
  safe upon dry ground。
  We told Sir Allan our desire of visiting Icolmkill; and entreated
  him to give us his protection; and his company。  He thought proper
  to hesitate a little; but the Ladies hinted; that as they knew he
  would not finally refuse; he would do better if he preserved the
  grace of ready compliance。  He took their advice; and promised to
  carry us on the morrow in his boat。
  We passed the remaining part of the day in such amusements as were
  in our power。  Sir Allan related the American campaign; and at
  evening one of the Ladies played on her harpsichord; while Col and
  Mr。 Boswell danced a Scottish reel with the other。
  We could have been easily persuaded to a longer stay upon Inch
  Kenneth; but life will not be all passed in delight。  The session
  at Edinburgh was approaching; from which Mr。 Boswell could not be
  absent。
  In the morning our boat was ready:  it was high and strong。  Sir
  Allan victualled it for the day; and provided able rowers。  We now
  parted from the young Laird of Col; who had treated us with so much
  kindness; and concluded his favours by consigning us to Sir Allan。
  Here we had the last embrace of this amiable man; who; while these
  pages were preparing to attest his virtues; perished in the passage
  between Ulva and Inch Kenneth。
  Sir Allan; to whom the whole region was well known; told us of a
  very remarkable cave; to which he would show us the way。  We had
  been disappointed already by one cave; and were not much elevated
  by the expectation of another。
  It was yet better to see it; and we stopped at some rocks on the
  coast of Mull。  The mouth is fortified by vast fragments of stone;
  over which we made our way; neither very nimbly; nor very securely。
  The place; however; well repaid our trouble。  The bottom; as far as
  the flood rushes in; was encumbered with large pebbles; but as we
  advanced was spread over with smooth sand。  The breadth is about
  forty…five feet:  the roof rises in an arch; almost regular; to a
  height which we could not measure; but I think it about thirty
  feet。
  This part of our curiosity was nearly frustrated; for though we
  went to see a cave; and knew that caves are dark; we forgot to
  carry tapers; and did not discover our omission till we were
  wakened by our wants。  Sir Allan then sent one of the boatmen into
  the country; who soon returned with one little candle。  We were
  thus enabled to go forward; but could not venture far。  Having
  passed inward from the sea to a great depth; we found on the right
  hand a narrow passage; perhaps not more than six feet wide;
  obstructed by great stones; over which we climbed and came into a
  second cave; in breadth twenty…five feet。  The air in this
  apartment was very warm; but not oppressive; nor loaded with
  vapours。  Our light showed no tokens of a feculent or corrupted
  atmosphere。  Here was a square stone; called; as we are told;
  Fingal's Table。
  If we had been provided with torches; we should have proceeded in
  our search; though we had already gone as far as any former
  adventurer; except some who are reported never to have returned;
  and; measuring our way back; we found it more than a hundred and
  sixty yards; the eleventh part of a mile。
  Our measures were not critically exact; having been made with a
  walking pole; such as it is convenient to carry in these rocky
  countries; of which I guessed the length by standing against it。
  In this there could be no great errour; nor do I much doubt but the
  Highlander; whom we employed; reported the number right。  More
  nicety however is better; and no man should travel unprovided with
  instruments for taking heights and distances。
  There is yet another cause of errour not always easily surmounted;
  though more dangerous to the veracity of itinerary narratives; than
  imperfect mensuration。  An observer deeply impressed by any
  remarkable spectacle; does not suppose; that the traces will soon
  vanish from his mind; and having commonly no great convenience for
  writing; defers the description to a time of more leisure; and
  better accommodation。
  He who has not made the experiment; or who is not accustomed to
  require rigorous accuracy from himself; will scarcely believe how
  much a few hours take from certainty of knowledge; and distinctness
  of imagery; how the succession of objects will be broken; how
  separate parts will be confused; and how many particular features
  and discriminations will be compressed and conglobated into one
  gross and general idea。
  To this dilatory notation must be imputed the false relations of
  travellers; where there is no imaginable motive to deceive。  They
  trusted to memory; what cannot be trusted safely but to the eye;
  and told by guess what a few hours before they had known with
  certainty。  Thus it was that Wheeler and Spon described with
  irreconcilable contrariety things which they surveyed together; and
  which both undoubtedly designed to show as they