第 27 节
作者:阎王      更新:2022-03-20 20:46      字数:9322
  education; and leaves the young gentleman; our friend; to govern
  his dominions; with the full power of a Highland Chief。  By the
  absence of the Laird's family; our entertainment was made more
  difficult; because the house was in a great degree disfurnished;
  but young Col's kindness and activity supplied all defects; and
  procured us more than sufficient accommodation。
  Here I first mounted a little Highland steed; and if there had been
  many spectators; should have been somewhat ashamed of my figure in
  the march。  The horses of the Islands; as of other barren
  countries; are very low:  they are indeed musculous and strong;
  beyond what their size gives reason for expecting; but a bulky man
  upon one of their backs makes a very disproportionate appearance。
  From the habitation of Captain Maclean; we went to Grissipol; but
  called by the way on Mr。 Hector Maclean; the Minister of Col; whom
  we found in a hut; that is; a house of only one floor; but with
  windows and chimney; and not inelegantly furnished。  Mr。 Maclean
  has the reputation of great learning:  he is seventy…seven years
  old; but not infirm; with a look of venerable dignity; excelling
  what I remember in any other man。
  His conversation was not unsuitable to his appearance。  I lost some
  of his good…will; by treating a heretical writer with more regard
  than; in his opinion; a heretick could deserve。  I honoured his
  orthodoxy; and did not much censure his asperity。  A man who has
  settled his opinions; does not love to have the tranquillity of his
  conviction disturbed; and at seventy…seven it is time to be in
  earnest。
  Mention was made of the Earse translation of the New Testament;
  which has been lately published; and of which the learned Mr。
  Macqueen of Sky spoke with commendation; but Mr。 Maclean said he
  did not use it; because he could make the text more intelligible to
  his auditors by an extemporary version。  From this I inferred; that
  the language of the translation was not the language of the Isle of
  Col。
  He has no publick edifice for the exercise of his ministry; and can
  officiate to no greater number; than a room can contain; and the
  room of a hut is not very large。  This is all the opportunity of
  worship that is now granted to the inhabitants of the Island; some
  of whom must travel thither perhaps ten miles。  Two chapels were
  erected by their ancestors; of which I saw the skeletons; which now
  stand faithful witnesses of the triumph of the Reformation。
  The want of churches is not the only impediment to piety:  there is
  likewise a want of Ministers。  A parish often contains more Islands
  than one; and each Island can have the Minister only in its own
  turn。  At Raasa they had; I think; a right to service only every
  third Sunday。  All the provision made by the present ecclesiastical
  constitution; for the inhabitants of about a hundred square miles;
  is a prayer and sermon in a little room; once in three weeks:  and
  even this parsimonious distribution is at the mercy of the weather;
  and in those Islands where the Minister does not reside; it is
  impossible to tell how many weeks or months may pass without any
  publick exercise of religion。
  GRISSIPOL IN COL
  After a short conversation with Mr。 Maclean; we went on to
  Grissipol; a house and farm tenanted by Mr。 Macsweyn; where I saw
  more of the ancient life of a Highlander; than I had yet found。
  Mrs。 Macsweyn could speak no English; and had never seen any other
  places than the Islands of Sky; Mull; and Col:  but she was
  hospitable and good…humoured; and spread her table with sufficient
  liberality。  We found tea here; as in every other place; but our
  spoons were of horn。
  The house of Grissipol stands by a brook very clear and quick;
  which is; I suppose; one of the most copious streams in the Island。
  This place was the scene of an action; much celebrated in the
  traditional history of Col; but which probably no two relaters will
  tell alike。
  Some time; in the obscure ages; Macneil of Barra married the Lady
  Maclean; who had the Isle of Col for her jointure。  Whether Macneil
  detained Col; when the widow was dead; or whether she lived so long
  as to make her heirs impatient; is perhaps not now known。  The
  younger son; called John Gerves; or John the Giant; a man of great
  strength who was then in Ireland; either for safety; or for
  education; dreamed of recovering his inheritance; and getting some
  adventurers together; which; in those unsettled times; was not hard
  to do; invaded Col。  He was driven away; but was not discouraged;
  and collecting new followers; in three years came again with fifty
  men。  In his way he stopped at Artorinish in Morvern; where his
  uncle was prisoner to Macleod; and was then with his enemies in a
  tent。  Maclean took with him only one servant; whom he ordered to
  stay at the outside; and where he should see the tent pressed
  outwards; to strike with his dirk; it being the intention of
  Maclean; as any man provoked him; to lay hands upon him; and push
  him back。  He entered the tent alone; with his Lochabar…axe in his
  hand; and struck such terror into the whole assembly; that they
  dismissed his uncle。
  When he landed at Col; he saw the sentinel; who kept watch towards
  the sea; running off to Grissipol; to give Macneil; who was there
  with a hundred and twenty men; an account of the invasion。  He told
  Macgill; one of his followers; that if he intercepted that
  dangerous intelligence; by catching the courier; he would give him
  certain lands in Mull。  Upon this promise; Macgill pursued the
  messenger; and either killed; or stopped him; and his posterity;
  till very lately; held the lands in Mull。
  The alarm being thus prevented; he came unexpectedly upon Macneil。
  Chiefs were in those days never wholly unprovided for an enemy。  A
  fight ensued; in which one of their followers is said to have given
  an extraordinary proof of activity; by bounding backwards over the
  brook of Grissipol。  Macneil being killed; and many of his clan
  destroyed; Maclean took possession of the Island; which the
  Macneils attempted to conquer by another invasion; but were
  defeated and repulsed。
  Maclean; in his turn; invaded the estate of the Macneils; took the
  castle of Brecacig; and conquered the Isle of Barra; which he held
  for seven years; and then restored it to the heirs。
  CASTLE OF COL
  From Grissipol; Mr。 Maclean conducted us to his father's seat; a
  neat new house; erected near the old castle; I think; by the last
  proprietor。  Here we were allowed to take our station; and lived
  very commodiously; while we waited for moderate weather and a fair
  wind; which we did not so soon obtain; but we had time to get some
  information of the present state of Col; partly by inquiry; and
  partly by occasional excursions。
  Col is computed to be thirteen miles in length; and three in
  breadth。  Both the ends are the property of the Duke of Argyle; but
  the middle belongs to Maclean; who is called Col; as the only
  Laird。
  Col is not properly rocky; it is rather one continued rock; of a
  surface much diversified with protuberances; and covered with a
  thin layer of earth; which is often broken; and discovers the
  stone。  Such a soil is not for plants that strike deep roots; and
  perhaps in the whole Island nothing has ever yet grown to the
  height of a table。  The uncultivated parts are clothed with heath;
  among which industry has interspersed spots of grass and corn; but
  no attempt has yet been made to raise a tree。  Young Col; who has a
  very laudable desire of improving his patrimony; purposes some time
  to plant an orchard; which; if it be sheltered by a wall; may
  perhaps succeed。  He has introduced the culture of turnips; of
  which he has a field; where the whole work was performed by his own
  hand。  His intention is to provide food for his cattle in the
  winter。  This innovation was considered by Mr。 Macsweyn as the idle
  project of a young head; heated with English fancies; but he has
  now found that turnips will really grow; and that hungry sheep and
  cows will really eat them。
  By such acquisitions as these; the Hebrides may in time rise above
  their annual distress。  Wherever heath will grow; there is reason
  to think something better may draw nourishment; and by trying the
  production of other places; plants will be found suitable to every
  soil。
  Col has many lochs; some of which have trouts and eels; and others
  have never yet been stocked; another proof of the negligence of the
  Islanders; who might take fish in the inland waters; when they
  cannot go to sea。
  Their quadrupeds are horses; cows; sheep; and goats。  They have
  neither deer; hares; nor rabbits。  They have no vermin; except
  rats; which have been lately brought thither by sea; as to other
  places; and are free from serpents; frogs; and toads。
  The harvest in Col; and in Lewis; is ripe sooner than in Sky; and
  the winter in Col is never cold; but very tempestuous。  I know not
  that I ever heard the wind so loud in any other place; and Mr。
  Boswell observed; that its noise was all its own; for there were no
  trees to increase it。
  Noise is not the worst effect of the tempests; for they have thrown
  the sand from the shore over a considerable part of t