第 9 节
作者:阎王      更新:2022-03-20 20:46      字数:9322
  of the country; might; at least before the roads were made; have
  wandered among the rocks; till he had perished with hardship;
  before he could have found either food or shelter。  Yet what are
  these hillocks to the ridges of Taurus; or these spots of wildness
  to the desarts of America?
  It was not long before we were invited to mount; and continued our
  journey along the side of a lough; kept full by many streams; which
  with more or less rapidity and noise; crossed the road from the
  hills on the other hand。  These currents; in their diminished
  state; after several dry months; afford; to one who has always
  lived in level countries; an unusual and delightful spectacle; but
  in the rainy season; such as every winter may be expected to bring;
  must precipitate an impetuous and tremendous flood。  I suppose the
  way by which we went; is at that time impassable。
  GLENSHEALS
  The lough at last ended in a river broad and shallow like the rest;
  but that it may be passed when it is deeper; there is a bridge over
  it。  Beyond it is a valley called Glensheals; inhabited by the clan
  of Macrae。  Here we found a village called Auknasheals; consisting
  of many huts; perhaps twenty; built all of dry…stone; that is;
  stones piled up without mortar。
  We had; by the direction of the officers at Fort Augustus; taken
  bread for ourselves; and tobacco for those Highlanders who might
  show us any kindness。  We were now at a place where we could obtain
  milk; but we must have wanted bread if we had not brought it。  The
  people of this valley did not appear to know any English; and our
  guides now became doubly necessary as interpreters。  A woman; whose
  hut was distinguished by greater spaciousness and better
  architecture; brought out some pails of milk。  The villagers
  gathered about us in considerable numbers; I believe without any
  evil intention; but with a very savage wildness of aspect and
  manner。  When our meal was over; Mr。 Boswell sliced the bread; and
  divided it amongst them; as he supposed them never to have tasted a
  wheaten loaf before。  He then gave them little pieces of twisted
  tobacco; and among the children we distributed a small handful of
  halfpence; which they received with great eagerness。  Yet I have
  been since told; that the people of that valley are not indigent;
  and when we mentioned them afterwards as needy and pitiable; a
  Highland lady let us know; that we might spare our commiseration;
  for the dame whose milk we drank had probably more than a dozen
  milk…cows。  She seemed unwilling to take any price; but being
  pressed to make a demand; at last named a shilling。  Honesty is not
  greater where elegance is less。  One of the bystanders; as we were
  told afterwards; advised her to ask for more; but she said a
  shilling was enough。  We gave her half a crown; and I hope got some
  credit for our behaviour; for the company said; if our interpreters
  did not flatter us; that they had not seen such a day since the old
  laird of Macleod passed through their country。
  The Macraes; as we heard afterwards in the Hebrides; were
  originally an indigent and subordinate clan; and having no farms
  nor stock; were in great numbers servants to the Maclellans; who;
  in the war of Charles the First; took arms at the call of the
  heroic Montrose; and were; in one of his battles; almost all
  destroyed。  The women that were left at home; being thus deprived
  of their husbands; like the Scythian ladies of old; married their
  servants; and the Macraes became a considerable race。
  THE HIGHLANDS
  As we continued our journey; we were at leisure to extend our
  speculations; and to investigate the reason of those peculiarities
  by which such rugged regions as these before us are generally
  distinguished。
  Mountainous countries commonly contain the original; at least the
  oldest race of inhabitants; for they are not easily conquered;
  because they must be entered by narrow ways; exposed to every power
  of mischief from those that occupy the heights; and every new ridge
  is a new fortress; where the defendants have again the same
  advantages。  If the assailants either force the strait; or storm
  the summit; they gain only so much ground; their enemies are fled
  to take possession of the next rock; and the pursuers stand at
  gaze; knowing neither where the ways of escape wind among the
  steeps; nor where the bog has firmness to sustain them:  besides
  that; mountaineers have an agility in climbing and descending
  distinct from strength or courage; and attainable only by use。
  If the war be not soon concluded; the invaders are dislodged by
  hunger; for in those anxious and toilsome marches; provisions
  cannot easily be carried; and are never to be found。  The wealth of
  mountains is cattle; which; while the men stand in the passes; the
  women drive away。  Such lands at last cannot repay the expence of
  conquest; and therefore perhaps have not been so often invaded by
  the mere ambition of dominion; as by resentment of robberies and
  insults; or the desire of enjoying in security the more fruitful
  provinces。
  As mountains are long before they are conquered; they are likewise
  long before they are civilized。  Men are softened by intercourse
  mutually profitable; and instructed by comparing their own notions
  with those of others。  Thus Caesar found the maritime parts of
  Britain made less barbarous by their commerce with the Gauls。  Into
  a barren and rough tract no stranger is brought either by the hope
  of gain or of pleasure。  The inhabitants having neither commodities
  for sale; nor money for purchase; seldom visit more polished
  places; or if they do visit them; seldom return。
  It sometimes happens that by conquest; intermixture; or gradual
  refinement; the cultivated parts of a country change their
  language。  The mountaineers then become a distinct nation; cut off
  by dissimilitude of speech from conversation with their neighbours。
  Thus in Biscay; the original Cantabrian; and in Dalecarlia; the old
  Swedish still subsists。  Thus Wales and the Highlands speak the
  tongue of the first inhabitants of Britain; while the other parts
  have received first the Saxon; and in some degree afterwards the
  French; and then formed a third language between them。
  That the primitive manners are continued where the primitive
  language is spoken; no nation will desire me to suppose; for the
  manners of mountaineers are commonly savage; but they are rather
  produced by their situation than derived from their ancestors。
  Such seems to be the disposition of man; that whatever makes a
  distinction produces rivalry。  England; before other causes of
  enmity were found; was disturbed for some centuries by the contests
  of the northern and southern counties; so that at Oxford; the peace
  of study could for a long time be preserved only by chusing
  annually one of the Proctors from each side of the Trent。  A tract
  intersected by many ridges of mountains; naturally divides its
  inhabitants into petty nations; which are made by a thousand causes
  enemies to each other。  Each will exalt its own chiefs; each will
  boast the valour of its men; or the beauty of its women; and every
  claim of superiority irritates competition; injuries will sometimes
  be done; and be more injuriously defended; retaliation will
  sometimes be attempted; and the debt exacted with too much
  interest。
  In the Highlands it was a law; that if a robber was sheltered from
  justice; any man of the same clan might be taken in his place。
  This was a kind of irregular justice; which; though necessary in
  savage times; could hardly fail to end in a feud; and a feud once
  kindled among an idle people with no variety of pursuits to divert
  their thoughts; burnt on for ages either sullenly glowing in secret
  mischief; or openly blazing into public violence。  Of the effects
  of this violent judicature; there are not wanting memorials。  The
  cave is now to be seen to which one of the Campbells; who had
  injured the Macdonalds; retired with a body of his own clan。  The
  Macdonalds required the offender; and being refused; made a fire at
  the mouth of the cave; by which he and his adherents were
  suffocated together。
  Mountaineers are warlike; because by their feuds and competitions
  they consider themselves as surrounded with enemies; and are always
  prepared to repel incursions; or to make them。  Like the Greeks in
  their unpolished state; described by Thucydides; the Highlanders;
  till lately; went always armed; and carried their weapons to
  visits; and to church。
  Mountaineers are thievish; because they are poor; and having
  neither manufactures nor commerce; can grow richer only by robbery。
  They regularly plunder their neighbours; for their neighbours are
  commonly their enemies; and having lost that reverence for
  property; by which the order of civil life is preserved; soon
  consider all as enemies; whom they do not reckon as friends; and
  think themselves licensed to invade whatever they are not obliged
  to protect。
  By a strict administration of the laws; since the laws have been
  introduced into the Highlands; this disposition to thievery is very
  much represt。  Thirty years ago no herd had ever been conducted
  through the mountains; without paying tribute in