第 2 节
作者:阎王      更新:2022-03-20 20:46      字数:9322
  board; lodging; and instruction are all included。
  The chief magistrate resident in the university; answering to our
  vice…chancellor; and to the rector magnificus on the continent; had
  commonly the title of Lord Rector; but being addressed only as Mr。
  Rector in an inauguratory speech by the present chancellor; he has
  fallen from his former dignity of style。  Lordship was very
  liberally annexed by our ancestors to any station or character of
  dignity:  They said; the Lord General; and Lord Ambassador; so we
  still say; my Lord; to the judge upon the circuit; and yet retain
  in our Liturgy the Lords of the Council。
  In walking among the ruins of religious buildings; we came to two
  vaults over which had formerly stood the house of the sub…prior。
  One of the vaults was inhabited by an old woman; who claimed the
  right of abode there; as the widow of a man whose ancestors had
  possessed the same gloomy mansion for no less than four
  generations。  The right; however it began; was considered as
  established by legal prescription; and the old woman lives
  undisturbed。  She thinks however that she has a claim to something
  more than sufferance; for as her husband's name was Bruce; she is
  allied to royalty; and told Mr。 Boswell that when there were
  persons of quality in the place; she was distinguished by some
  notice; that indeed she is now neglected; but she spins a thread;
  has the company of her cat; and is troublesome to nobody。
  Having now seen whatever this ancient city offered to our
  curiosity; we left it with good wishes; having reason to be highly
  pleased with the attention that was paid us。  But whoever surveys
  the world must see many things that give him pain。  The kindness of
  the professors did not contribute to abate the uneasy remembrance
  of an university declining; a college alienated; and a church
  profaned and hastening to the ground。
  St。 Andrews indeed has formerly suffered more atrocious ravages and
  more extensive destruction; but recent evils affect with greater
  force。  We were reconciled to the sight of archiepiscopal ruins。
  The distance of a calamity from the present time seems to preclude
  the mind from contact or sympathy。  Events long past are barely
  known; they are not considered。  We read with as little emotion the
  violence of Knox and his followers; as the irruptions of Alaric and
  the Goths。  Had the university been destroyed two centuries ago; we
  should not have regretted it; but to see it pining in decay and
  struggling for life; fills the mind with mournful images and
  ineffectual wishes。
  ABERBROTHICK
  As we knew sorrow and wishes to be vain; it was now our business to
  mind our way。  The roads of Scotland afford little diversion to the
  traveller; who seldom sees himself either encountered or overtaken;
  and who has nothing to contemplate but grounds that have no visible
  boundaries; or are separated by walls of loose stone。  From the
  bank of the Tweed to St。 Andrews I had never seen a single tree;
  which I did not believe to have grown up far within the present
  century。  Now and then about a gentleman's house stands a small
  plantation; which in Scotch is called a policy; but of these there
  are few; and those few all very young。  The variety of sun and
  shade is here utterly unknown。  There is no tree for either shelter
  or timber。  The oak and the thorn is equally a stranger; and the
  whole country is extended in uniform nakedness; except that in the
  road between Kirkaldy and Cowpar; I passed for a few yards between
  two hedges。  A tree might be a show in Scotland as a horse in
  Venice。  At St。 Andrews Mr。 Boswell found only one; and recommended
  it to my notice; I told him that it was rough and low; or looked as
  if I thought so。  This; said he; is nothing to another a few miles
  off。  I was still less delighted to hear that another tree was not
  to be seen nearer。  Nay; said a gentleman that stood by; I know but
  of this and that tree in the county。
  The Lowlands of Scotland had once undoubtedly an equal portion of
  woods with other countries。  Forests are every where gradually
  diminished; as architecture and cultivation prevail by the increase
  of people and the introduction of arts。  But I believe few regions
  have been denuded like this; where many centuries must have passed
  in waste without the least thought of future supply。  Davies
  observes in his account of Ireland; that no Irishman had ever
  planted an orchard。  For that negligence some excuse might be drawn
  from an unsettled state of life; and the instability of property;
  but in Scotland possession has long been secure; and inheritance
  regular; yet it may be doubted whether before the Union any man
  between Edinburgh and England had ever set a tree。
  Of this improvidence no other account can be given than that it
  probably began in times of tumult; and continued because it had
  begun。  Established custom is not easily broken; till some great
  event shakes the whole system of things; and life seems to
  recommence upon new principles。  That before the Union the Scots
  had little trade and little money; is no valid apology; for
  plantation is the least expensive of all methods of improvement。
  To drop a seed into the ground can cost nothing; and the trouble is
  not great of protecting the young plant; till it is out of danger;
  though it must be allowed to have some difficulty in places like
  these; where they have neither wood for palisades; nor thorns for
  hedges。
  Our way was over the Firth of Tay; where; though the water was not
  wide; we paid four shillings for ferrying the chaise。  In Scotland
  the necessaries of life are easily procured; but superfluities and
  elegancies are of the same price at least as in England; and
  therefore may be considered as much dearer。
  We stopped a while at Dundee; where I remember nothing remarkable;
  and mounting our chaise again; came about the close of the day to
  Aberbrothick。
  The monastery of Aberbrothick is of great renown in the history of
  Scotland。  Its ruins afford ample testimony of its ancient
  magnificence:  Its extent might; I suppose; easily be found by
  following the walls among the grass and weeds; and its height is
  known by some parts yet standing。  The arch of one of the gates is
  entire; and of another only so far dilapidated as to diversify the
  appearance。  A square apartment of great loftiness is yet standing;
  its use I could not conjecture; as its elevation was very
  disproportionate to its area。  Two corner towers; particularly
  attracted our attention。  Mr。 Boswell; whose inquisitiveness is
  seconded by great activity; scrambled in at a high window; but
  found the stairs within broken; and could not reach the top。  Of
  the other tower we were told that the inhabitants sometimes climbed
  it; but we did not immediately discern the entrance; and as the
  night was gathering upon us; thought proper to desist。  Men skilled
  in architecture might do what we did not attempt:  They might
  probably form an exact ground…plot of this venerable edifice。  They
  may from some parts yet standing conjecture its general form; and
  perhaps by comparing it with other buildings of the same kind and
  the same age; attain an idea very near to truth。  I should scarcely
  have regretted my journey; had it afforded nothing more than the
  sight of Aberbrothick。
  MONTROSE
  Leaving these fragments of magnificence; we travelled on to
  Montrose; which we surveyed in the morning; and found it well
  built; airy; and clean。  The townhouse is a handsome fabrick with a
  portico。  We then went to view the English chapel; and found a
  small church; clean to a degree unknown in any other part of
  Scotland; with commodious galleries; and what was yet less
  expected; with an organ。
  At our inn we did not find a reception such as we thought
  proportionate to the commercial opulence of the place; but Mr。
  Boswell desired me to observe that the innkeeper was an Englishman;
  and I then defended him as well as I could。
  When I had proceeded thus far; I had opportunities of observing
  what I had never heard; that there are many beggars in Scotland。
  In Edinburgh the proportion is; I think; not less than in London;
  and in the smaller places it is far greater than in English towns
  of the same extent。  It must; however; be allowed that they are not
  importunate; nor clamorous。  They solicit silently; or very
  modestly; and therefore though their behaviour may strike with more
  force the heart of a stranger; they are certainly in danger of
  missing the attention of their countrymen。  Novelty has always some
  power; an unaccustomed mode of begging excites an unaccustomed
  degree of pity。  But the force of novelty is by its own nature soon
  at an end; the efficacy of outcry and perseverance is permanent and
  certain。
  The road from Montrose exhibited a continuation of the same
  appearances。  The country is still naked; the hedges are of stone;
  and the fields so generally plowed that it is hard to imagine where
  grass is found for the horses that till them。  The harvest; which
  was almost ripe; appeared very plentiful。
  Early in the afternoon Mr。 Boswell observed that we were at no
  great distance from the house of lord Monboddo。  The magnetism of
  his conversa