第 10 节
作者:精灵王      更新:2021-04-30 17:22      字数:9320
  from   the   populous   shallows   of   Torbay;   and   cast   up;    high   and   dry;   on
  Paignton sands。
  Torbay is a place which should be as much endeared to the                   naturalist
  as to the patriot and   to the artist。        We cannot gaze on          its blue ring of
  water;   and   the   great   limestone   bluffs   which   bound     it   to   the   north   and
  south; without a glow passing   through our              hearts; as we remember  the
  terrible and glorious pageant which             passed by in the glorious July days
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  of   1588;   when   the   Spanish      Armada   ventured   slowly   past   Berry   Head;
  with   Elizabeth's   gallant      pack   of   Devon   captains   (for   the   London   fleet
  had not yet joined)        following fast in its wake; and dashing into the midst
  of   the   vast  line;  undismayed   by  size   and   numbers;   while   their   kin   and
  friends     stood watching and praying on the cliffs; spectators of Britain's
  Salamis。      The white line of houses; too; on the other side of the                  bay; is
  Brixham; famed as the landing…place of William of Orange;                      the stone on
  the    pier…head;    which    marks     his  first  footsteps    on    British    ground;     is
  sacred   in   the   eyes   of   all   true   English   Whigs;   and   close   by   stands   the
  castle of the settler of Newfoundland;  Sir               Humphrey Gilbert;  Raleigh's
  half…brother; most learned of all           Elizabeth's admirals in life; most pious
  and heroic in death。         And     as for scenery; though it can boast of neither
  mountain peak nor          dark fiord; and would seem tame enough in the eyes
  of a western       Scot or Irishman; yet Torbay surely has a soft beauty of its
  own。       The rounded hills slope gently to the sea; spotted with squares of
  emerald grass; and rich red fallow fields; and parks full of                  stately timber
  trees。    Long lines of tall elms run down to the very                 water's edge; their
  boughs      unwarped      by   any    blast;   here   and   there    apple     orchards     are
  bending   under   their   loads   of   fruit;   and   narrow    strips   of   water…meadow
  line    the  glens;   where     the   red  cattle   are   already     lounging     in   richest
  pastures;   within     ten   yards   of   the   rocky   pebble     beach。     The   shore     is
  silent   now;   the    tide   far  out:  but   six    hours    hence   it   will   be  hurling
  columns of rosy foam high into the               sunlight; and sprinkling passengers;
  and   cattle;   and   trim   gardens     which   hardly   know   what   frost   and   snow
  may be; but see the flowers            of autumn meet the flowers of spring; and
  the old year linger       smilingly to twine a garland for the new。              No wonder
  that such a spot as Torquay; with its delicious Italian              climate; and endless
  variety of rich woodland; flowery lawn;               fantastic rock…cavern; and broad
  bright   tide…sand;   sheltered   from       every   wind   of   heaven   except   the   soft
  south…east; should have become              a favourite haunt; not only for invalids;
  but   for   naturalists。     Indeed; it   may  well   claim  the honour of   being the
  original home of         marine zoology and botany in England; as the Firth of
  Forth;   under     the   auspices   of   Sir   J。   G。   Dalyell;   has   been   for   Scotland。
  For     here     worked      Montagu;       Turton;    and    Mrs。    Griffith;    to   whose
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  extraordinary       powers of research English marine botany almost owes its
  existence;      and who survived to an age long beyond the natural term of
  man;     to   see;   in  her   cheerful    and   honoured     old   age;   that  knowledge
  become        popular     and    general    which     she   pursued     for  many     a  year
  unassisted       and    alone。     Here;     too;  the   scientific    succession     is  still
  maintained   by   Mr。   Pengelly   and   Mr。   Gosse;   the   latter   of   whom   by   his
  delightful and; happily; well…known books has done more for the                        study
  of marine zoology than any other living man。                  Torbay;     moreover; from
  the    variety   of   its  rocks;    aspects;   and    sea…floors;     where     limestones
  alternate with traps; and traps with slates; while              at the valley…mouth the
  soft sandstones and hard conglomerates of               the new red series slope down
  into the   tepid   and   shallow  waves;       affords   an   abundance   and   variety  of
  animal and vegetable life;          unequalled; perhaps; in any other part of Great
  Britain。     It   cannot    boast;    certainly;    of  those   strange    deep…sea     forms
  which Messrs。          Alder; Goodsir; and Laskey dredge among the lochs of
  the    western     Highlands;       and   the   sub…marine      mountain      glens   of   the
  Zetland   sea;     but   it   has   its   own   varieties;   its   own   ever…fresh   novelties:
  and in     spite of all the research which has been lavished on its shores; a
  naturalist cannot; I suspect; work there for a winter without                  discovering
  forms new to science; or meeting with curiosities which                  have escaped all
  observers;   since   the   lynx   eye   of   Montagu   espied      them   full   fifty   years
  ago。
  Follow us; then; reader; in imagination; out of the gay watering… place;
  with    its  London     shops   and    London     equipages;     along    the  broad    road
  beneath the sunny limestone cliff; tufted with golden furze;                 past the huge
  oaks   and   green   slopes   of   Tor   Abbey;   and   past   the     fantastic   rocks   of
  Livermead; scooped by the waves into a labyrinth                    of double and triple
  caves; like Hindoo temples; upborne on pillars                 banded with yellow and
  white and red; a week's study; in form and               colour and chiaro…oscuro; for
  any   artist;   and   a   mile   or   so   further along   a   pleasant   road;   with   land…
  locked     glimpses     of  the   bay;   to  the   broad     sheet   of   sand   which     lies
  between the village of Paignton and               the sea … sands trodden a hundred
  times   by   Montagu   and   Turton;       perhaps;   by   Dillwyn   and   Gaertner;   and
  many   another   pioneer   of      science。      And   once   there;   before   we   look   at
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  anything else; come         down straight to the sea marge; for yonder lies; just
  left by the     retiring tide; a mass of life such as you will seldom see again。
  It is somewhat ugly; perhaps; at first sight; for ankle…deep are                spread; for
  some ten yards long by five broad; huge dirty bivalve                   shells; as large as
  the   hand;   each   with   its   loathly   grey   and   black  siphons   hanging   out;   a
  confused   mass   of   slimy   death。      Let   us   walk   on   to   some   cleaner   heap;
  and    leave    these;  the   great   Lutraria    Elliptica;    which    have    been   lying
  buried   by  thousands   in   the   sandy     mud;   each   with   the   point   of   its   long
  siphon above the surface;          sucking in and driving out again the salt water
  on   which   it   feeds;   till   last   night's   ground…swell   shifted   the   sea…bottom;
  and   drove      them   up   hither   to   perish   helpless;   but   not   useless;   on   the
  beach。
  See; close by is another shell bed; quite as large; but comely                  enough
  to please any eye。        What a variety of forms and colours are               there; amid
  the purple and olive wreaths of wrack; and bladder… weed; and tangle (ore…
  weed; as they call it in the south); and the             delicate green ribbons of the
  Zostera (the only English flowering             plant which grows beneath the sea)。
  What   are   they   all?    What   are     the   long   white   razors?      What   are   the
  delicate     green…grey     scimitars?      What      are  the   tapering    brown    spires?
  What the tufts of delicate         yellow plants like squirrels' tails; and lobsters'
  horns;   and     tamarisks;   and   fir…trees;   and   all   other   finely   cut   animal   and
  vegetable       forms?      What      are    the   groups     of   grey    bladders;     with
  something like a little bud at the tip?