第 15 节
作者:双曲线      更新:2021-04-30 17:21      字数:9321
  with    perfume     that  lay   on   the  air  like  a  heavy   drowsiness;      long    clear
  stretches of an ankle… high shrub of vivid emerald; looking in the distance
  like   sloping   meadows   of   a   peculiar   color…brilliance;   patches   of   smaller
  flowers     where     for  the   trifling  space    of  a  street's   width    the  sun   had
  unobstructed fall; these from time to time diversified the way; brought to
  our perceptions the endearing trifles of earthiness; of humanity; befittingly
  to modify the austerity of the great forest。              At a brookside we saw; still
  fresh   and   moist;   the   print   of   a   bear's   foot。 From   a   patch   of   the   little
  emerald brush; a barren doe rose to her feet; eyed us a moment; and then
  bounded away as though propelled by springs。                  We saw her from time to
  time surmounting little elevations farther and farther away。
  The air was like cold water。           We had not lung capacity to satisfy our
  desire   for   it。  There   came   with   it   a   dry   exhilaration   that   brought   high
  spirits;   an   optimistic    viewpoint;     and    a  tremendous      keen    appetite。    It
  seemed that we could never tire。            In fact we never did。        Sometimes; after
  a   particularly   hard   day;   we   felt   like   resting;   but   it   was   always   after   the
  day's work was done; never while it was under way。                   The Tenderfoot and
  I one day went afoot twenty…two miles up and down a mountain fourteen
  thousand feet high。         The last three thousand feet were nearly straight up
  and   down。      We   finished   at   a   four…mile   clip   an   hour   before   sunset;   and
  discussed   what   to   do   next   to   fill   in   the   time。 When   we   sat   down;   we
  found we had had about enough; but we had not discovered it before。
  All of us; even the morose and cynical Dinkey; felt the benefit of the
  change      from    the   lower     country。     Here     we    were    definitely    in   the
  Mountains。       Our plateau ran from six   to eight thousand feet in   altitude。
  Beyond it occasionally we could see three more ridges; rising and falling;
  each higher than the last。        And then; in the blue distance; the very crest of
  the broad system called the Sierras;another wide region of sheer granite
  rising in peaks; pinnacles; and minarets; rugged; wonderful; capped with
  the eternal snows。
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  IX
  THE TRAIL
  When      you   say   〃trail〃  to  a  Westerner;    his  eye   lights   up。   This    is
  because it means something to him。              To another it may mean something
  entirely    different;   for   the  blessed    word    is  of  that  rare   and   beautiful
  category which is at once of the widest significance and the most intimate
  privacy to him who utters it。          To your mind leaps the picture of the dim
  forest…aisles   and    the   murmurings   of     tree…top   breezes;   to   him   comes     a
  vision   of   the   wide   dusty   desert;   to   me;   perhaps;   a   high   wild   country   of
  wonder。      To   all   of   us   it   is   the   slender;   unbroken;   never…   ending   thread
  connecting experiences。
  For in a mysterious way; not to be understood; our trails never do end。
  They   stop   sometimes;   and   wait   patiently   while   we   dive   in   and   out   of
  houses; but always when we are ready to go on; they are ready too; and so
  take   up   the   journey   placidly   as   though   nothing   had   intervened。      They
  begin; when?        Sometime; away in the past; you may remember a single
  episode; vivid through the mists of extreme youth。               Once a very little boy
  walked   with   his   father   under   a   green   roof   of   leaves   that   seemed   farther
  than the sky and as unbroken。          All of a sudden the man raised his gun and
  fired    upwards;     apparently    through     the  green    roof。   A    pause    ensued。
  Then; hurtling roughly through still that same green roof; a great bird fell;
  hitting the earth with a thump。          The very little boy was I。        My trail must
  have begun there under the bright green roof of leaves。
  From that earliest moment the Trail unrolls behind you like a thread so
  that   never    do  you    quite  lose   connection     with   your   selves。    There     is
  something a little fearful to the imaginative in the insistence of it。                 You
  may camp; you may linger; but some time or another; sooner or later; you
  must   go   on;   and   when   you   do;   then   once   again   the   Trail   takes   up   its
  continuity without reference to the muddied place you have tramped out in
  your    indecision    or   indolence    or  obstinacy     or  necessity。    It   would    be
  exceedingly curious to follow out in patience the chart of a man's going;
  tracing the pattern of his steps with all its windings of nursery; playground;
  boys     afield;  country;    city;  plain;   forest;  mountain;      wilderness;    home;
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  always on and on into the higher country of responsibility until at the last
  it leaves us at   the summit of   the          Great   Divide。      Such a pattern   would
  tell his story as      surely as do the tracks of a partridge on the snow。
  A certain magic inheres in the very name; or at least so it seems to me。
  I should be interested to know whether others feel the same glamour that I
  do in the contemplation of such syllables as the Lo…Lo Trail; the Tunemah
  Trail;   the   Mono   Trail;   the   Bright   Angel   Trail。      A   certain   elasticity   of
  application   too   leaves   room   for   the   more   connotation。         A  trail   may   be
  almost      anything。     There      are  wagon…trails      which     East   would     rank   as
  macadam roads; horse…trails that would compare favorably with our best
  bridle…paths; foot…trails in the fur country worn by constant use as smooth
  as so many garden…walks。              Then again there are other arrangements。                 I
  have heard a mule…driver overwhelmed with skeptical derision because he
  claimed to have upset but six times in traversing a certain bit of trail not
  over   five   miles   long;   in   charts   of   the   mountains   are   marked   many  trails
  which are only 〃ways through;〃you will find few traces of predecessors;
  the same can be said of trails in the great forests where even an Indian is
  sometimes        at  fault。    〃Johnny;      you're    lost;〃   accused     the   white    man。
  〃Trail lost: Injun here;〃 denied the red man。              And so after your experience
  has   led   you   by   the   campfires   of   a   thousand   delights;   and   each   of   those
  campfires is on the Trail; which only pauses courteously for your stay and
  then leads on untiring into new mysteries forever and ever; you come to
  love   it   as   the   donor   of   great   joys。 You   too   become   a   Westerner;   and
  when somebody says 〃trail;〃 your eye too lights up。
  The general impression of any particular trail is born rather of the little
  incidents   than      of   the  big   accidents。    The   latter    are   exotic;  and   might
  belong to any time or places; the former are individual。                  For the Trail is a
  vantage…ground;   and   from   it;   as   your   day's   travel   unrolls;   you   see   many
  things。     Nine     tenths    of  your    experience     comes     thus;   for  in  the   long
  journeys   the   side   excursions   are   few   enough   and   unimportant            enough
  almost to merit classification with the accidents。                In time the character of
  the Trail thus defines itself。
  Most      of  all;  naturally;    the   kind   of   country     has   to  do    with   this
  generalized impression。           Certain surprises; through trees; of vista looking
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  out over unexpected spaces; little notches in the hills beyond which you
  gain    to   a  placid   far  country     sleeping    under    a  sun   warmer      than   your
  elevation      permits;    the  delicious     excitement     of   the  moment      when     you
  approach       the   very   knife…edge      of   the   summit     and    wonder     what     lies
  beyond;these   are   the   things   you   remember   with   a   warm   heart。           Your
  saddle is a point of vantage。            By it you are elevated above the country;
  from it   you