When　I　emerged　from　my　narrow　bed；　the　frosty　air　struck　my　cheeks；　and　the　cold；　wet　marsh　chilled　my　feet。　　It　was　the　delay　at　Watchapreague　Inlet　that　had　lodged　me　on　this　inhospitable　marsh；　so；　trying　to　exercise　my　poor　stock　of　patience；　I　completed　my　toilet；　shaking　in　my　wet　shoes。　　The　icy　water；　into　which　I　stepped　ankle…deep　in　order　to　launch　my　canoe；　reminded　me　that　this　wintry　morning　was　in　fact　the　first　day　of　December；　and　that　stormy　Hatteras；　south　of　which　was　to　be　found　a　milder　climate；　was　still　a　long　way　off。
  The　brisk　row　along　Paramore's　Island　（called　Palmer's　by　the　natives）　to　the　wide；　bay…like　entrance　of　Little　Machipongo　Inlet；　restored　warmth　to　my　benumbed　limbs。　　This　wide　doorway　of　the　ocean　permitted　me　to　cross　its　west　portal　in　peace；　for　the　day　was　calm。　From　Little　to　Great　Machipongo　Inlet　the　beach　is　called　Hog　Island。　　The　inside　　thoroughfare　is　bounded　on　the　west　by　Rogue's　Island；　out　of　the　flats　of　which　rose　a　solitary　house。　　At　the　southern　end　of　Hog　Island　there　is　a　small　store　on　a　creek；　and　near　the　beach　a　light…house；　while　a　little　inland　is　　located；　within　a　forest　of　pines；　a　small　　settlement。
  At　noon；　Great　Machipongo　Inlet　was　crossed　without　danger；　and　Cobb's　Island　was　skirted　several　miles　to　Sand　Shoal　Inlet；　near　which　the　hotel　of　the　three　Cobb　brothers　rose　cheerfully　out　of　the　dreary　waste　of　sands　and　marshes。　　The　father　of　the　present　proprietors　came　to　this　island　more　than　thirty　years　ago；　and　took　possession　of　this　domain；　which　had　been　thrown　up　by　the　action　of　the　ocean's　waves。　　He　refused　an　offer　of　one　hundred　thousand　dollars　for　the　island。　　The　locality　is　one　of　the　best　on　this　coast　for　wild…fowl　　shooting。　　Sand　Shoal　Inlet；　at　the　southern　end　of　Cobb's　Island；　has　a　depth　of　twelve　feet　of　water　on　its　bar　at　low　tide。
  In　company　with　the　regular　row…boat　ferry　I　crossed；　the　next　day；　the　broad　bay　to　the　　mainland　eight　miles　distant；　where　the　canoe　was　put　upon　a　cart　and　taken　across　the　peninsula　five　miles　to　Cherrystone；　the　only　point　near　Cape　Charles　at　which　a　Norfolk　steamer　stopped　for　passengers。　　It　was　fully　forty　miles　across　Chesapeake　Bay　from　Cherrystone　Landing　to　Norfolk；　and　it　was　imperative　to　make　the　　portage　from　this　place　instead　of　from　Cape　Charles；　which；　though　more　than　fifteen　miles　further　south；　and　nearer　to　my　starting…point　on　the　other　side；　did　not　possess　facilities　for　　transportation。　　The　slow　one…horse　conveyance　arrived　at　Cherrystone　half　an　hour　after　the　steamer　N。　P。　Banks　had　left　the　landing；　though　I　heard　that　the　kind…hearted　captain；　being　told　I　was　coming；　waited　and　whistled　for　me　till　his　patience　was　exhausted。
  The　only　house　at　the　head　of　the　pier　was　owned　by　Mr。　J。　P。　Powers；　and　fortunately　offered　hotel　accommodations。　Here　I　remained　until　the　next　trip　of　the　boat；　December　4。　　Arriving　in　Norfolk　at　dusk　of　the　same　day；　I　stored　my　canoe　in　the　warehouse　of　the　Old　Dominion　Steamship　Company；　and　quietly　　retired　to　a　hotel　which　promised　an　early　meal　in　the　morning；　congratulating　myself　the　while　that　I　had　avoided　the　usual　show　of　curiosity　tendered　to　canoeists　at　city　piers；　and　above　all　had　escaped　the　inevitable　reporter。　　Alas！　my　thankfulness　came　too　soon；　for　when　about　to　retire；　my　name　was　called；　and　a　veritable　reporter　from　the　Norfolk　Landmark　cut　off　my　retreat。
  〃Only　a　few　words；〃　he　pleadingly　　whispered。　〃I've　been　hunting　for　you　all　over　the　city　since　seven　o'clock；　and　it　is　near　midnight　now。〃
  He　gently　took　my　arm　and　politely　furnished　me　with　a　chair。　　Then　placing　his　own　directly　before　me；　he　insinuatingly　worked　upon　me　until　he　derived　a　knowledge　of　the　log　of　the　Paper　Canoe；　when　leaning　back　in　his　chair　he　leisurely　surveyed　me　and　exclaimed：
  〃Mr。　Bishop；　you　are　a　man　of　snap。　　We　like　men　of　snap；　we　admire　men　of　snap；　in　fact；　I　may　say　we　cotton　to　men　of　snap；　and　I　am　proud　to　make　your　acquaintance。　Now　if　you　will　stop　over　a　day　we　will　have　the　whole　city　out　to　see　your　boat。〃
  This　kind　offer　I　firmly　refused；　and　we　were　about　to　part；　when　he　said　in　a　softly　rebuking　manner：
  〃You　thought；　Mr。　Bishop；　you　would　give　us　the　slip　　did　you　not？　　I　assure　you　that　would　be　quite　impossible。　　Eternal　Vigilance　is　our　motto。　　No；　you　could　not　escape　us。　　Good　evening；　sir；　and　the　'Landmark's'　welcome　to　you。〃
  Six　hours　later；　as　I　entered　the　restaurant　of　the　hotel　with　my　eyes　half　open；　a　newsboy　bawled　out　in　the　darkness：　〃'Ere's　the　　Landmark。'　　Full　account　of　the　Paper　Canoe；〃　&c。　And　before　the　sun　was　up　I　had　read　a　column　and　a　half　of　〃The　Arrival　of　the　Solitary　　Voyager　in　Norfolk。〃　　So　much　for　the　zeal　of　Mr。　Perkins　of　the　〃Landmark；〃　a　worthy　example　of　American　newspaper　enterprise。　　Dreading　further　attentions；　I　now　prepared　to　beat　a　hasty　retreat　from　the　city。
  CHAPTER　IX。　FROM　NORFOLK　TO　CAPE　HATTERAS。
  THE　ELIZABETH　RIVER。　　THE　CANAL。　　NORTH　LANDING　RIVER。　　CURRITUCK　SOUND。　　ROANOKE　ISLAND。　　VISIT　TO　BODY　ISLAND　LIGHT…HOUSE。　　A　ROMANCE　OF　HISTORY。　　PAMPLICO　SOUND。　　THE　PAPER　CANOE　ARRIVES　AT　CAPE　HATTERAS。
  On　Saturday　morning；　December　5；　I　left　the　pier　of　the　Old　Dominion　Steamship　　Company；　at　Norfolk；　Virginia；　and；　rowing　across　the　water　towards　Portsmouth；　commenced　　ascending　Elizabeth　River；　which　is　here　wide　and　affected　by　tidal　change。　　The　old　navy　yard；　with　its　dismantled　hulks　lying　at　anchor　in　the　stream；　occupies　both　banks　of　the　river。　　About　six　miles　from　Norfolk　the　entrance　to　the　　Dismal　Swamp　Canal　is　reached；　on　the　left　bank　of　the　river。　　This　old　canal　runs　through　the　Great　Dismal　Swamp；　and　affords　passage　for　steamers　and　light…draught　vessels　to　Elizabeth　City；　on　the　Pasquotank　River；　which　empties　into　Albemarle　Sound　to　the　southward。　　The　great　cypress　and　juniper　timber　is　penetrated　by　this　canal；　and　schooners　are　towed　into　the　swamp　to　landings　where　their　cargoes　are　　delivered。
  In　the　interior　of　the　Dismal　Swamp　is　　Drummond's　Lake；　named　after　its　discoverer。　It　is　seven　miles　long　by　five　miles　wide；　and　is　the　feeder　of　the　canal。　　A　branch　canal　connects　it　with　the　main　canal；　and　small　vessels　may　traverse　the　lake　in　search　of　timber　and　shingles。　Voyagers　tell　me　that　during　heavy　gales　of　wind　a　terrible　sea　is　set　in　motion　upon　this　shoal　sheet　of　water；　making　it　dangerous　to　navigate。　　Bears　are　found　in　the　fastnesses　of　the　swamp。　　The　Dismal　Swamp　Canal　was　dug　in　the　old　days　of　the　wheelbarrow　and　spade。
  The　Albemarle　and　Chesapeake　Canal；　the　　entrance　to　which　is　sixteen　miles　from　Norfolk；　on　the　right　or　east　bank　of　the　Elizabeth　River；　and　generally　known　as　the　〃new　canal；〃　was　commenced　about　the　year　1856；　and　finished　in　1859。　　It　is　eight　miles　and　a　half　in　length；　and　connects　the　Elizabeth　and　North　Landing　rivers。　　This　canal　was　dug　by　dredging…machines。　It　is　kept　in　a　much　better　state　for　navigation；　so　far　as　the　depth　of　water　is　　concerned；　than　the　old　canal；　which　from　　inattention　is　gradually　shoaling　in　places；　consequently　the　regular　steam…packets　which　ply　between　Elizabeth　City　and　Norfolk；　as　well　as　steamers　whose　destinations　are　further　north；　have　given　up　the　use　of　the　Dismal　Swamp　Canal；　and　now　go　round　through　Albemarle　Sound　up　the　North　River；　thence　by　a　six…mile　cut　into　　Currituck　Sound；　up　North　Landing　River；　and　through　the　new　canal　to　the　Elizabeth　River　and　into　Chesapeake　Bay。　　The　shores　of　the　Elizabeth　are　low　and　are　fringed　by　sedgy　marshes；　while　forests　of　second…growth　pine　present　a　green　background　to　the　eye。　A　few　miles　above　Norfolk　the　cultivation　of　land　ceases；　and　the　canoeist　traverses　a　wilderness。
  About　noon　I　arrived　at　the　locks　of　the　　Albemarle　and　Chesapeake　Canal。　　The　telegraph　operator　greeted　me　with　the　news　that　the　　company's　agent　in　Norfolk　had　telegraphed　to　the　lock…master　to　pass　the　paper　canoe　through　with　the　freedom　of　the　canal　　the　first　honor　of　the　kind　that　had　fallen　to　my　lot。　　The　tide　rises　and　falls　at　the　locks　in　the　river　about　three　feet　and　a　half。　　When　I　passed　through；　the　　difference　in　the　level　between　the　ends　of　the　locks　did　not　reach　two　feet。　　The　old　lock…master　urged　me　to　give　up　the　journey　at　once；　as　I　never　could　〃get　through　the　Sounds　with　that　little　boat。〃　When　I　told　him　I　was　on　my　second　thousand　miles　of　canoe　navigation　since　leaving　Quebec；　he　drew　a　long　breath　and　gave　a　low　groan。
  When　once　through　the　canal…gates；　you　are　in　a　heavy　cypress　swamp。　　The　dredgings　thrown　upon　the　banks　have　raised　the　edge　of　the　swamp　to　seven　feet　above　the　water。　Little　pines　grow　along　these　shores；　and　among　them　the　small　birds；　now　on　their　southern　migrations；　sported　and　sang。　　Whenever　a　steamer　or　　tugboat　passed　me；　it　crowded　the　canoe　close　to　the　bank；　but　these　vessels　travel　along　the　canal　at　so　slow　a　rate；　that　no　trouble　is　　experienced　by　the　canoeist　from　the　disturbance　caused　by　their　revolving　screws。　　Freedmen；　poling　flats　loaded　with　shingles　or　frame　stuff；　roared　out　their　merry　songs　as　they　passed。　The　canal　entered　the　North　Landing　River　without　any　lockage；　just　beyond　was　North　Landing