第 66 节
作者:
无边的寒冷 更新:2021-03-11 18:29 字数:9322
the marriage ceremony henna is applied to the nails of the hands and
feet; and also to the palms of the hands; and the hair is cut short
over the forehead; something in the style of a 〃Gainsborough fringe。〃
The wedding feast is a very grand affair。 Goats and buffaloes are
killed; and the friends and relatives of the bride send contributions
of food。 The wedding decorations are family property; and descend from
mother to daughter; and both bride and bridegroom are covered with
flowers; jewels; and gay embroidery。 The bride sits in state and
receives the congratulatory visits of her relatives and friends; and
after the actual ceremony is over; the newly…married couple sit on a
seat raised above the guests; and the sirih and betel…nut are largely
chewed。 There are 〃floral decorations;〃 music; and feasting; all
strangers are made welcome; the young men spend the afternoon in games;
among which cock…fighting usually plays a prominent part; and the
maidens amuse themselves in a part of the house screened off from the
rest of the guests by curtains; and made very gay。
As religious ceremonies attend upon marriage and death; so on the birth
of a child the father puts his mouth to the ear of the infant and
solemnly pronounces what is called the Azan or 〃Allah Akbar;〃 the name
of the one God being the first sound which is allowed to fall upon his
ears on entering the world; as it is the last sound which he hears on
leaving it。 There is a form of prayer which is used at births; and
another on the seventh day afterward; when the child's head is shaved。
The sage femme remains for forty days with the mother; who on the
fortieth day makes the ceremonial purifications and prayers which are
customary; and then returns to her ordinary duties。 The child; as soon
as it can speak; learns to recite prayers and passages from the Koran;
and is very early grounded in the distinctive principles of Islam。
The children of both sexes are very pretty; but with strangers they are
very shy and timid。 They look very innocent; and are docile; gentle and
obedient; spending much of their time in taming their pets and playing
with them; and in playing games peculiar to their age。 Except in one or
two cases in Sungei Ujong; I have not seen a child with eye or skin
disease; or any kind of deformity。
There have been Rajahs all day in the veranda; and their followers
sitting on the steps; all received by Mr。 Low with quiet courtesy; and
regaled with tea or coffee and cigarettes。 A short time ago the
reigning prince; who does not appear to be a cypher; came with a great
train of followers; some of them only wearing sarongs; a grandson; to
whom he is much attached; and the deposed Sultan's two boys; of whom I
told you before。 They are in Malay clothing; and seem to have lost
their vivacity; or at least it is in abeyance。 Before I came here; I
understood from many people that 〃His Highness〃 is very generally
detested。 So; also; says Sir Benson Maxwell in _Our Malay Conquests_。
Major M'Nair in his amusing book on Perak says: 〃He is a man over
middle age; and is described as being of considerable ability; feared
and hated by many of the chiefs; and as being of a fierce and cruel
disposition; but he was a proved man as to his loyalty〃 (to British
interests); 〃and there being no desire on the part of the Government to
annex the State of Perak; his appointment was the wisest course that;
under the circumstances; could be pursued。〃 This is all that the
greatest apologist for British proceedings in Perak has to say。
I was not prepossessed in his favor before I came; for among other
stories of his cruel disposition; I was told that it was 〃absolutely
true〃 that three years ago he poured boiling water down the back of a
runaway female slave who had been recaptured; and then put a red ant's
nest upon it。 If 〃piracy〃 is to be the term applied to levying
blackmail; he was certainly a pirate; for he exacted a tenth of the
cargo of every boat which passed up his river; a Rajah higher up doing
the same thing。 He is said to have a very strong character; to be
grasping; and to be a 〃brute;〃 but Mr。 Low gets on very well with him
apparently。 He is an elderly man; wearing a sort of fez on a shaven
head。 He has a gray mustache。 His brow is a fine one; and his face has
a look of force; but the lower part of it is coarse and heavy。 He was
fanning himself with his fez; and when I crossed the veranda and gave
him a fan; he accepted it without the slightest gesture of thanks; as
if I had been a slave。 When Mr。 Low told him that I had been at
Koto…lamah; he said that the chief in whose house I had rested deserved
to be shot; and ought to be shot。 He and Mr。 Low talked business for an
hour; but all important matters are transacted in what is called a
native council。
I wrote that I believed myself to be the only European in Kwala Kangsa;
but I find that there was another at the time when I wrote thusa
young man of good family; who came out here seeking an appointment。 He
was sun…stricken three days ago; and violent fever and delirium set in;
during the height of which he overpowered four Sikhs who were taking
care of him; rushed out of doors; fell down exhausted; was carried
home; and died at four in the morning; his last delirious dreams being
of gambling and losing heavily。
The lamentable burial took place in the evening as the shadows fell。
This sums up the storya career of dissipation; death at twenty…one; a
rough; oblong box; no one to be sorry。 It made my heart ache for the
mother; who would have given much to be where I was; and see 〃the
dreary death train〃 move slowly to the dreary inclosure on a hill…top;
where the grass grows rank and very green round a number of white
wooden crosses; which mark the graves of the officers and soldiers who
fell in 1876。 The Union Jack was thrown over the coffin; which was
carried by six Sikhs; and Mr。 Low; Major Swinburne; Rajah Dris and some
followers; and Sultan Abdullah's two boys; who had nothing better to
do; followed it。 By the time the grave was reached torches were
required; and the burial service was read from my prayer…book。 It was
all sad and saddening。
The weather is still glorious; the winding Perak still mirrors in
scarcely rippled blue the intensely blue sky; 〃never wind blows
loudly;〃 but soft airs rustle the trees。 One could not lead a more
tropical life than this; with apes and elephants about one under the
cocoa…palms; and with the mercury ranging from 80 degrees to 90
degrees! Gorgeous; indeed; are the birds and butterflies and flowers;
but often when the erythrina and the Poinciana regia are strewing the
ground with their flaming blossoms; I think with a passionate longing
of the fragile Trientalis Europae; of crimson…tipped lichens; of faint
odors of half…hidden primroses; of whiffs of honey and heather from
purple moorlands; and of all the homely; fragrant; unobtrusive flowers
that are linked with you! I should like a chance of being 〃cold to the
bone!〃
I have wasted too much of my time to…day upon the apes。 They fascinate
me more daily。 They look exactly like familiar demons; and certainly
anyone having them about him two hundred years ago would have been
burned as a wizard。 When Mr。 Low walks down the veranda; these two
familiars walk behind him with a stealthy tread。 He is having a
business conversation just now with some Rajahs; whose numerous
followers are standing and lying about; and Eblis is sitting on his
shoulder with one arm round his neck; while Mahmoud sits on the table
opening letters; and the siamang; sitting on the rafter; is looking
down with an unpleasant look。 Eblis condescends to notice me to…day;
and occasionally sits on my shoulder murmuring 〃Ouf! ouf!〃 the sweet
sound which means all varieties of affection and happiness。 They say
wah…wah distinctly; and scream with rage like children; but have none
of the meaningless chatter of monkeys。 It is partly their silence which
makes them such very pleasant companions。 At sunrise; however; like
their forest brethren; they hail the sun for some minutes with a noise
which I have never heard them make again during the day; loud and
musical; as if uttered by human vocal organs; very clear and pleasant。
Doubtless the Malays like Mr。 Low all the better for his love of pets。
At lunch they were both; as usual; sitting at the table。 I am still
much afraid of Mahmoud; but Captain Walker is infatuated with him; and
likes his rough; jolly manners; and his love of fun and rough play。 As
Assam was bringing me a cup of coffee this creature put out his long
arm; and with his face brimming over with frolic; threw the coffee over
the mat。 Then he took up a long glass of beer and began to drink it
eagerly; but as Mr。 Low disapproved of his being allowed to get tipsy a
second time; it was taken from him; upon which he took up the breast of
a fricasseed chicken and threw it at the offender。 The miscreant did
every kind of ludicrous thing; finishing by pulling everyone to go out
with him; as he always does at that hour; and when he had succeeded in
getting us all out was in a moment at the top of a high tree; leaping
from branch to branch; throwin