第 66 节
作者:无边的寒冷      更新:2021-03-11 18:29      字数:9322
  the marriage ceremony henna is applied to the nails of the hands and
  feet; and also to the palms of the hands; and the hair is cut short
  over the forehead; something in the style of a 〃Gainsborough fringe。〃
  The wedding feast is a very grand affair。 Goats and buffaloes are
  killed; and the friends and relatives of the bride send contributions
  of food。 The wedding decorations are family property; and descend from
  mother to daughter; and both bride and bridegroom are covered with
  flowers; jewels; and gay embroidery。 The bride sits in state and
  receives the congratulatory visits of her relatives and friends; and
  after the actual ceremony is over; the newly…married couple sit on a
  seat raised above the guests; and the sirih and betel…nut are largely
  chewed。 There are 〃floral decorations;〃 music; and feasting; all
  strangers are made welcome; the young men spend the afternoon in games;
  among which cock…fighting usually plays a prominent part; and the
  maidens amuse themselves in a part of the house screened off from the
  rest of the guests by curtains; and made very gay。
  As religious ceremonies attend upon marriage and death; so on the birth
  of a child the father puts his mouth to the ear of the infant and
  solemnly pronounces what is called the Azan or 〃Allah Akbar;〃 the name
  of the one God being the first sound which is allowed to fall upon his
  ears on entering the world; as it is the last sound which he hears on
  leaving it。 There is a form of prayer which is used at births; and
  another on the seventh day afterward; when the child's head is shaved。
  The sage femme remains for forty days with the mother; who on the
  fortieth day makes the ceremonial purifications and prayers which are
  customary; and then returns to her ordinary duties。 The child; as soon
  as it can speak; learns to recite prayers and passages from the Koran;
  and is very early grounded in the distinctive principles of Islam。
  The children of both sexes are very pretty; but with strangers they are
  very shy and timid。 They look very innocent; and are docile; gentle and
  obedient; spending much of their time in taming their pets and playing
  with them; and in playing games peculiar to their age。 Except in one or
  two cases in Sungei Ujong; I have not seen a child with eye or skin
  disease; or any kind of deformity。
  There have been Rajahs all day in the veranda; and their followers
  sitting on the steps; all received by Mr。 Low with quiet courtesy; and
  regaled with tea or coffee and cigarettes。 A short time ago the
  reigning prince; who does not appear to be a cypher; came with a great
  train of followers; some of them only wearing sarongs; a grandson; to
  whom he is much attached; and the deposed Sultan's two boys; of whom I
  told you before。 They are in Malay clothing; and seem to have lost
  their vivacity; or at least it is in abeyance。 Before I came here; I
  understood from many people that 〃His Highness〃 is very generally
  detested。  So; also; says Sir Benson Maxwell in _Our Malay Conquests_。
  Major M'Nair in his amusing book on Perak says: 〃He is a man over
  middle age; and is described as being of considerable ability; feared
  and hated by many of the chiefs; and as being of a fierce and cruel
  disposition; but he was a proved man as to his loyalty〃 (to British
  interests); 〃and there being no desire on the part of the Government to
  annex the State of Perak; his appointment was the wisest course that;
  under the circumstances; could be pursued。〃 This is all that the
  greatest apologist for British proceedings in Perak has to say。
  I was not prepossessed in his favor before I came; for among other
  stories of his cruel disposition; I was told that it was 〃absolutely
  true〃 that three years ago he poured boiling water down the back of a
  runaway female slave who had been recaptured; and then put a red ant's
  nest upon it。 If 〃piracy〃 is to be the term applied to levying
  blackmail; he was certainly a pirate; for he exacted a tenth of the
  cargo of every boat which passed up his river; a Rajah higher up doing
  the same thing。 He is said to have a very strong character; to be
  grasping; and to be a 〃brute;〃 but Mr。 Low gets on very well with him
  apparently。 He is an elderly man; wearing a sort of fez on a shaven
  head。 He has a gray mustache。 His brow is a fine one; and his face has
  a look of force; but the lower part of it is coarse and heavy。 He was
  fanning himself with his fez; and when I crossed the veranda and gave
  him a fan; he accepted it without the slightest gesture of thanks; as
  if I had been a slave。 When Mr。 Low told him that I had been at
  Koto…lamah; he said that the chief in whose house I had rested deserved
  to be shot; and ought to be shot。 He and Mr。 Low talked business for an
  hour; but all important matters are transacted in what is called a
  native council。
  I wrote that I believed myself to be the only European in Kwala Kangsa;
  but I find that there was another at the time when I wrote thusa
  young man of good family; who came out here seeking an appointment。 He
  was sun…stricken three days ago; and violent fever and delirium set in;
  during the height of which he overpowered four Sikhs who were taking
  care of him; rushed out of doors; fell down exhausted; was carried
  home; and died at four in the morning; his last delirious dreams being
  of gambling and losing heavily。
  The lamentable burial took place in the evening as the shadows fell。
  This sums up the storya career of dissipation; death at twenty…one; a
  rough; oblong box; no one to be sorry。 It made my heart ache for the
  mother; who would have given much to be where I was; and see 〃the
  dreary death train〃 move slowly to the dreary inclosure on a hill…top;
  where the grass grows rank and very green round a number of white
  wooden crosses; which mark the graves of the officers and soldiers who
  fell in 1876。 The Union Jack was thrown over the coffin; which was
  carried by six Sikhs; and Mr。 Low; Major Swinburne; Rajah Dris and some
  followers; and Sultan Abdullah's two boys; who had nothing better to
  do; followed it。 By the time the grave was reached torches were
  required; and the burial service was read from my prayer…book。 It was
  all sad and saddening。
  The weather is still glorious; the winding Perak still mirrors in
  scarcely rippled blue the intensely blue sky; 〃never wind blows
  loudly;〃 but soft airs rustle the trees。  One could not lead a more
  tropical life than this; with apes and elephants about one under the
  cocoa…palms; and with the mercury ranging from 80 degrees to 90
  degrees!  Gorgeous; indeed; are the birds and butterflies and flowers;
  but often when the erythrina and the Poinciana regia are strewing the
  ground with their flaming blossoms; I think with a passionate longing
  of the fragile Trientalis Europae; of crimson…tipped lichens; of faint
  odors of half…hidden primroses; of whiffs of honey and heather from
  purple moorlands; and of all the homely; fragrant; unobtrusive flowers
  that are linked with you! I should like a chance of being 〃cold to the
  bone!〃
  I have wasted too much of my time to…day upon the apes。 They fascinate
  me more daily。 They look exactly like familiar demons; and certainly
  anyone having them about him two hundred years ago would have been
  burned as a wizard。 When Mr。 Low walks down the veranda; these two
  familiars walk behind him with a stealthy tread。 He is having a
  business conversation just now with some Rajahs; whose numerous
  followers are standing and lying about; and Eblis is sitting on his
  shoulder with one arm round his neck; while Mahmoud sits on the table
  opening letters; and the siamang; sitting on the rafter; is looking
  down with an unpleasant look。 Eblis condescends to notice me to…day;
  and occasionally sits on my shoulder murmuring 〃Ouf! ouf!〃 the sweet
  sound which means all varieties of affection and happiness。 They say
  wah…wah distinctly; and scream with rage like children; but have none
  of the meaningless chatter of monkeys。 It is partly their silence which
  makes them such very pleasant companions。 At sunrise; however; like
  their forest brethren; they hail the sun for some minutes with a noise
  which I have never heard them make again during the day; loud and
  musical; as if uttered by human vocal organs; very clear and pleasant。
  Doubtless the Malays like Mr。 Low all the better for his love of pets。
  At lunch they were both; as usual; sitting at the table。 I am still
  much afraid of Mahmoud; but Captain Walker is infatuated with him; and
  likes his rough; jolly manners; and his love of fun and rough play。 As
  Assam was bringing me a cup of coffee this creature put out his long
  arm; and with his face brimming over with frolic; threw the coffee over
  the mat。 Then he took up a long glass of beer and began to drink it
  eagerly; but as Mr。 Low disapproved of his being allowed to get tipsy a
  second time; it was taken from him; upon which he took up the breast of
  a fricasseed chicken and threw it at the offender。 The miscreant did
  every kind of ludicrous thing; finishing by pulling everyone to go out
  with him; as he always does at that hour; and when he had succeeded in
  getting us all out was in a moment at the top of a high tree; leaping
  from branch to branch; throwin