第 50 节
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无边的寒冷 更新:2021-03-11 18:28 字数:9322
policeman with a brace of loaded revolvers standing behind him。
Policemen filed in; one or two cases were tried and dismissed; the
Malay witnesses trembling from head to foot; and then the wretch from
the cage was brought in looking hardly human; as; from under his
shaggy; unshaven hair and unplaited pigtail which hung over his chest;
he cast furtive; frightened glances at the array before him。 He was
charged with being a waif。 A Malay had picked him up at sea in a boat;
of which he could give no account; neither of himself。 So he is
supposed to have been implicated in the murder of Mr。 Lloyd; and we are
bringing him; heavily ironed; and his boat up to Pinang。 I wonder how
many of the feelings which we call human exist in the lowest order of
Orientals! It is certain that many of them only regard kindness as a
confession of weakness。 The Chinese seem specially inscrutable; no one
seems really to understand them。 Even the Canton missionaries said that
they knew nearly nothing of them and their feelings。 This wretched
criminal; with his possible association with a brutal murder; is a most
piteous object on deck; and comes between me and the enjoyment of this
entrancing evening。
We reembarked late in the afternoon; and with the flood…tide in our
favor have left Selangor behind。 It has impressed me unfavorably as
compared with Sungei Ujong。 Of Kwalor Lumpor I cannot give any opinion;
but I have seen no signs of progress or life anywhere else。 The people
of the State are harassed by vexatious imposts which yield very little;
cost a great deal to collect; repress industry; and drive away
population。 Among such are taxes on individuals moving about the
country up or down the rivers; cutting wood or in boats; oppressively
heavy export duties on certain kinds of produce; and ad valorem duties
on all articles of import and export not otherwise specially taxed。 The
costs of litigation are enormous; and the legal expenses to litigants
are as great as in settlements where with the same money every
advantage can be obtained。 The stamps on all legal documents are also
oppressive。 The various departments are said to be in a state of
〃hugger…mugger。〃
With all this there is a good deal of display of military power on a
small scale; and of such over…aweing implements as bayonets and
revolvers; together with marching and counter…marching; body…guards and
guards of honor。 There must surely be a want of the right kind of vigor
in the administration; and a 〃laisser aller〃 on the part of some of the
minor officials; the result of which is that the great capabilities of
the State are not developed; and its resources seem very little known。
There has not been any disturbance in Selangor since 1874; and as
neither the Sultan; the Malays; nor the Chinese have ever raised
objections of any serious kind to the proposals of the British
advisers; the 〃far back〃 state of things is very singular。
Mr。 Syers; the superintendent of military police; appears a thoroughly
efficient man; as sensible in his views of what would conduce to the
advancement of the State as he is conscientious and careful in all
matters of detail which concern his rather complicated position。 He is
a student of the people and of the country; speaks Malay fluently; and
for a European seems to have a sympathetic understanding of the Malays;
is studying the Chinese and their language; as well as the flora;
fauna; and geology of the country; and is altogether unpretending。 I
have formed a very high opinion of him and should rely implicitly on
anything which he told me as a fact。 This is a great blessing; for
conflicting statements on every subject; and the difficulty of
estimating which one comes probably nearest the truth; are among the
great woes of traveling!
I。 L。 B。
LETTER XVII
The DindingsThe Tragedy on Pulu PangkorA Tropic SunriseSir W。
Robinson's Departure〃A Touch of the Sun〃Kling BeautyA Question
and AnswerThe Bazaars of GeorgetownThe Chinaman Goes AheadThe
Products of PinangPepper…Planting
HOTEL DE L'EUROPE; PINANG; February 9。
In the evening we reached the Dindings; a lovely group of small islands
ceded to England by the Pangkor Treaty; and just now in the height of
an unenviable notoriety。 The sun was low and the great heat past; the
breeze had died away; and in the dewy stillness the largest of the
islands looked unspeakably lovely as it lay in the golden light between
us and the sun; forest…covered to its steep summit; its rocky
promontories running out into calm; deep; green water; and forming
almost land…locked bays; margined by shores of white coral sand backed
by dense groves of cocoa…palms whose curving shadows lay dark upon the
glassy sea。 Here and there a Malay house in the shade indicated man and
his doings; but it was all silent。
On a high; steep point there is a small clearing on which stands a mat
bungalow with an attap roof; and below this there is a mat police
station; but it was all desolate; nothing stirred; and though we had
intended to spend the early hours of the night at the Dindings; we only
lay a short time in the deep shadow upon the clear green water;
watching scarlet fish playing in the coral forests; and the exquisite
beauty of the island with its dense foliage in dark relief against the
cool lemon sky。 Peace brooded over the quiet shores; heavy aromatic
odors of night…blooming plants wrapped us round; the sun sank suddenly;
the air became cool; it was a dream of tropic beauty。
〃Chalakar! Bondo!〃 Those jarring sounds seemed to have something
linking them with the tragedy of which the peaceful…looking bungalow
was lately the scene; and of which you have doubtless read。 A Chinese
gang swooped down upon the house from behind; beating gongs and
shouting。 Captain Lloyd got up to see what was the matter; and was
felled by a hatchet; calling out to his wife for his revolver。 This had
been abstracted; and the locks had been taken off his fowling…pieces。
The ayah fled to the jungle in the confusion; taking with her the three
children; the youngest only four weeks old。 The wretches then
fractured; Mrs。 Lloyd's skull with the hatchet; and having stunned Mrs。
Innes; who was visiting her; they pushed the senseless bodies under the
bed; and were preparing to set fire to it when something made them
depart。
No more is likely to be known。 The police must either have been
cowardly or treacherous。 The Pyah Pekket called the next day and
brought the frightfully mangled corpse; Mrs。 Lloyd; whose reason was
overturned; and Mrs。 Innes; on here。 It is supposed that the Chinese
secret societies have frustrated justice。 A wretch is to be hanged here
for the crime this morning on his own confession; but it is believed
that he was doomed to sacrifice himself by one of these societies; in
order to screen the real murderers。 The contrast was awful between the
island looking so lovely in the evening light; and this horrid deed
which has desolated it。
The mainland approaches close to the Dindings; but the mangrove swamps
of Selangor had given place to lofty ranges; forest covered; and a
white coral strand fringed with palms。 It was a lovely night。 The
north…east monsoon was fresh and steady; and the stars were glorious。
It was very hot below; but when I went up on deck it was cool; and in
the colored dawn we were just running up to the island…group of which
Pinang is the chief; and reached the channel which divides it from
Leper Island just at sunrise。 All these islands are densely wooded; and
have rocky shores。 The high mountains of the native State of Kedah
close the view to the north; and on the other side of a very narrow
channel are the palm groves and sugar plantations of Province
Wellesley。 The Leper Island looked beautiful in the dewy morning with
its stilted houses under the cocoa…palms; and the island of Pinang;
with its lofty peak; dense woods; and shores fringed with palms
sheltering Malay kampongs; each with its prahus drawn up on the beach;
looked impressive enough。
The fierce glory of a tropic sunrise is ever a new delight。 It is
always the sun of the Nineteenth Psalm; with the prevailing yellow
color of the eastern sky intensifying in one spot; a cool; lingering
freshness; a deepening of the yellow east into a brilliant rose color;
till suddenly; 〃like a glory; the broad sun〃 wheels above the horizon;
the dew…bathed earth rejoices; the air is flooded with vitality; all
things which rejoice in light and heat come forth; night birds and
night prowlers retire; and we pale people hastily put up our umbrellas
to avoid being shriveled in less than ten minutes from the first
appearance of the sun。
〃Pinang;〃 from the Pinang or areca…palm; is the proper name of the
island; but out of compliment to George IV; it was called Prince of
Wales Island。 Georgetown is the name of the capital; but by an odd
freak we call the town Penang; and spell it with an e instead of an i。
There were a great many ships and junks at anchor; and the huge 〃P。 and
O。〃 steamer Peking; and there was a state of universal hurry and
excitement; for a large number of the officials of the Colonial
Government and of the 〃protected〃 States are here t