第 49 节
作者:
无边的寒冷 更新:2021-03-11 18:28 字数:9322
estimation; a gunboat would be sent up the river to 〃punish;〃 and would
kill; burn; and destroy; there would be a 〃little war;〃 and a heavy war
indemnity; and the true bearings of the case would be lost forever。
Yesterday; after a detention on the bar; we steamed up the broad; muddy
Selangor river; margined by bubbling slime; on which alligators were
basking in the torrid sun; to Selangor。 Here the Dutch had a fort on
the top of the hill。 We destroyed it in August; 1871。 Some Chinese
whose connection with Selangor is not traceable; after murdering nearly
everybody on board a Pinang…owned junk; took the vessel to Selangor。 We
demanded that the native chiefs should give up the pirates; and they
gave up nine readily; but refused the tenth; against whom 〃it does not
appear that there was any proof;〃 and drew their krises on our police
when they tried to arrest the man in defiance of them。 The (acting)
Governor of the Straits Settlements; instead of representing to the
Sultan the misconduct; actual or supposed; of his officers; sent a
war…ship to seize and punish them。 This attempt was resented by the
Selangor chiefs; and they fired on those who made it。 The Rinaldo
destroyed the town in consequence; and killed many of its inhabitants。
When the Viceroy; a brother of the Sultan of Kedah; retook Selangor two
years afterward; he found that what had been a populous and thriving
place was almost deserted; the few hovels which remained were in ruins;
the plantations were overgrown with rank jungle growths; and their
owners had fled; the mines in the interior were deserted; and the roads
and jungle paths were infested by bands of half…starved robbers。*
'*This account of Selangor does not rest on local hearsay; but on the
authority of two of the leading officials of the Colonial Government。'
Selangor is a most wretched placeworse than Klang。 On one side of the
river there is a fishing village of mat and attap hovels on stilts
raised a few feet above the slime of a mangrove swamp; and on the other
an expanse of slime; with larger houses on stilts; and an attempt at a
street of Chinese shops; and a gambling…den; which I entered; and found
full of gamblers at noonday。 The same place serves for a spirit and
champagne shop。 Slime was everywhere oozing; bubbling; smelling putrid
in the sun; all glimmering; shining; and iridescent; breeding fever and
horrible life; while land…crabs boring holes; crabs of a brilliant
turquoise…blue color; which fades at death; and reptiles like fish;
with great bags below their mouths; and innumerable armor…plated
insects; were rioting in it under the broiling sun。
We landed by a steep ladder upon a jetty with a gridiron top; only safe
for shoeless feet; and Mr。 Hawley and I went up to the fort by steps
cut in the earth。 There are fine mango…trees on the slopes; said to
have been planted by the Dutch two centuries ago。 The fort is nearly
oblong; and has a wall of stones and earth round it; in which; near the
entrance; some of the Dutch brickwork is still visible。 The trees round
it are much tattered and torn by English shell。 In front of the
entrance there is a large flat stone on a rude support。 On this a young
girl was sacrificed some years ago; and the Malay guns were smeared
with her blood; in the idea that it would make them successful。 I was
told this story; but have no means of testing its accuracy。
Within the fort the collector and magistratea very inert…looking
Dutch half…castehas a wretched habitation; mostly made of attap。 We
sat there for some time。 It looked most miserable; the few things about
being empty bottles and meat…tins。 A man would need many resources;
great energy; and an earnest desire to do his duty; in order to save
him from complete degeneracy。 He has no better prospect from his
elevation; than a nearly level plateau of mangrove swamps and jungle;
with low hills in the distance; in which the rivers rise。 It was
hotrather。
In the meantime the Resident was trying a case; and when it was
concluded we steamed out to sea and hugged all day the most monotonous
coast I ever saw; only just; if just; above high…water mark; with a
great level of mangrove swamps and dense jungle behind; with high;
jungle…covered hills in the very far distance; a vast area of
beast…haunted country; of which nothing is known by Europeans; and
almost nothing by the Malays themselves。 So very small a vessel tumbles
about a good deal even with a very light breeze; and instead of going
to dinner I lay on the roof of the cabin studying blue…books。 At
nightfall we anchored at the mouth of the Bernam river; to avoid the
inland mosquitoes; but we must have brought some with us; for I was
malignantly bitten。 Mrs。 Daly and I shared the lack of privacy and
comfort of the cabin。 Perfect though the Abdulsamat is; there is very
little rest to be got in a small and overcrowded vessel; and besides;
the heat was awful。 I think we were not far enough from the swampy
shore; for Mrs。 Daly was seized with fever during the night; and a
Malay servant also。 In the morning Mrs。 Daly。 who is comely and has a
very nice complexion; looked haggard; yellow; and much shaken。
At daylight we weighed anchor and steamed for many miles up the muddy;
mangrove…fringed river Bernam; the mangroves occasionally varied by the
nipah palm。 We met several palm…trees floating with their roots and
some of their fruits above the water; like those we saw yesterday
evening out on the Malacca Straits; looking like crowded Malay prahus
with tattered mat…sails。
Before nine we anchored at this place; whose wretchedness makes a great
impression on me; because we are to deposit Mr。 Hawley here as revenue
collector。 I have seen him every day for a week; he is amiable and
courteous; as well as intelligent and energetic; and it is shocking to
leave him alone in a malarious swamp。 This dismal revenue station
consists of a few exceptionally poor…looking Malay houses on the river
bank; a few equally unprosperous…looking Chinese dwellings; a police
station of dilapidated thatch among the trees; close to it a cage in
which there is a half…human looking criminal lying on a mat; a new
house or big room; raised for Mr。 Hawley; with the swamp all round it
and underneath it; and close to it some pestiferous ditches which have
been cut to drain it; but in which a putrid…looking brown ooze has
stagnated。 There is a causeway about two hundred yards long on the
river bank; but no road anywhere。 The river is broad; deep; swift and
muddy; on its opposite side is Perak; the finest State in the
peninsula; and the cluster of mat houses on the farther shore is under
the Perak Government。* Sampans are lying on the heated slime。 Cocoa…nut
trees fringe the river bank for some distance; and there are some
large; spreading trees loaded with the largest and showiest crimson
blossoms I ever saw; throwing even the gaudy Poinciana regia into the
shade; but nothing can look very attractive here; with the swamp in
front and the jungle behind; where the rhinoceros is said to roam
undisturbed。
'*The Bernam district has recently been handed over to Perak; and is now
under Mr。 Low's very capable administration。'
We landed in the police boat at a stilted jetty approached by a ladder
with few and slippery rungs。 At the top there was a primitive gridiron
of loose nibong bars; and the river swirled so rapidly and dizzily
below that I was obliged ignominiously to hold on to a Chinaman in
order to reach the causeway safely。 To add to the natural insecurity of
the foothold; some men were killing a goat at the top of the ladder;
and its blood made the whole gridiron slippery。 The banks of the river
are shining slime giving off fetid exhalations under the burning sun;
there is a general smell of vegetable decomposition; and miasma fever
(one would suppose) is exhaling from every bubble of the teeming slime
and swamp。
In the veranda of Mr。 Hawley's house a number of forlorn…looking
Rajahs are sitting; each with his forlorn…looking train of followers;
and in front of the police station a number of forlorn…looking Malays
are sitting motionless hour after hour。 The Chinese have a row of shops
above the river bank; and even on this deadly…looking shore they
display some purpose and energy。 Mrs。 Daly and I are sitting in Mr。
Hawley's side veranda with the bubbling swamp below us。 She reads a
dull novel; I watch the dead life; pen in hand; and think how I can
convey any impression of it to you。 The Resident has gone snipe…
shooting to replenish our larder。 A boat now and then crosses from the
Perak side; a sauntering Malay occasionally joins the squatting group;
a fishing hawk now and then swoops down upon a fish; a policeman
occasionally rouses up the wretch in the cage; and so the torrid hours
pass。
I take this up again as the dew falls; and the sea takes on the
coloring of a dying dolphin。 The Resident returned with a good bag of
snipe; and with Rajah Odoot; a gentle; timid…looking man; and another
Rajah with an uncomfortable; puzzled face; took his place at a table; a
policeman with a brace of loaded revolvers standing behind him。
Policemen filed in; one or two cases wer