rights　of　free　men。　It　is　a　great　pity　that　this　Prince　is　in　Malacca；
  for　he　is　said　to　be　a　very　enlightened　ruler。　The　photograph　which　I
  inclose　（from　which　the　engraving　is　taken）　is　of　the　marriage　of　his
  daughter；　a　very　splendid　affair。　The　buffalo　in　front　was　a　marriage
  present　from　the　Straits　Government；　and　its　covering　was　of　cloth　of
  gold　thick　with　pearls　and　precious　stones。
  We　visited　yesterday　a　Malay　kampong　called　Mambu；　in　order　to　pay　an
  unceremonious　visit　to　the　Datu　Bandar；　the　Rajah　second　in　rank　to　the
  reigning　prince。　His　house；　with　three　others；　a　godown　on　very　high
  stilts；　and　a　mound　of　graves　whitened　by　the　petals　of　the　Frangipani；
  with　a　great　many　cocoa…nut　and　other　trees；　was　surrounded；　as　Malay
  dwellings　often　are；　by　a　high　fence；　within　which　was　another
  inclosing　a　neat；　sanded　level；　under　cocoa…palms；　on　which　his
  〃private　residence〃　and　those　of　his　wives　stand。　His　secretary；　a
  nice…looking　lad　in　red　turban；　baju；　and　sarong；　came　out　to　meet　us；
  followed　by　the　Datu　Bandar；　a　pleasant；　able…looking　man；　with　a
  cordial　manner；　who　shook　hands　and　welcomed　us。　No　notice　had　been
  given　of　our　visit；　and　the　Rajah；　who　is　reclaiming　and　bringing　into
  good　cultivation　much　of　his　land；　and　who　sets　the　example　of　working
  with　his　own　hands；　was　in　a　checked　shirt；　and　a　common；　checked；　red
  sarong。　Vulgarity　is　surely　a　disease　of　the　West　alone；　though；　as　in
  Japan；　one　sees　that　it　can　be　contagious；　and　this　Oriental；　far　from
  apologizing　for　his　dishabille；　led　us　up　the　steep　and　difficult
  ladder　by　which　his　house　is　entered　with　as　much　courteous　ease　as　if
  he　had　been　in　his　splendors。
  I　thoroughly　liked　his　house。　It　is　both　fitting　and　tasteful。　We
  stepped　from　the　ladder　into　a　long　corridor；　well…matted；　which　led　to
  a　doorway　with　a　gold…embroidered　silk　or　valance；　and　a　looped…up
  portiere　of　white…flowered　silk　or　crepe。　This　was　the　entrance　to　a
  small　room　very　well　proportioned；　with　two　similar　doorways；　curtained
  with　flowered　silk；　one　leading　to　a　room　which　we　did　not　see；　and　the
  other　to　a　bamboo　gridiron　platform；　which　in　the　better　class　of　Malay
  houses　always　leads　to　a　smaller　house　at　the　back；　where　cooking　and
  other　domestic　operations　are　carried　on；　and　which　seems　given　up　to
  the　women。　There　was　a　rich；　dim　light　in　the　room；　which　was　cool　and
  wainscoted　entirely　with　dark　red　wood；　and　there　was　only　one　long；
  low　window；　with　turned　bars　of　the　same　wood。　There　were　three
  handsome　cabinets　with　hangings　of　gold　and　crimson　embroidery；　and　an
  ebony　frame　containing　a　verse　of　the　Koran　in　Arabic　characters　hung
  over　one　doorway。　In　accordance　with　Mohammedan　prohibitions；　there　was
  no　decoration　which　bore　the　likeness　of　any　created　thing；　but　there
  were　some　artistic　arabesques　under　the　roof。　The　furniture；　besides
  the　cabinets；　consisted　of　a　divan；　several　ebony　chairs；　a　round　table
  covered　with　a　cool　yellow　cloth；　and　a　table　against　the　wall　draped
  with　crimson　silk　flowered　with　gold。　The　floor　was　covered　with　fine
  matting；　over　which　were　Oudh　rugs　in　those　mixtures　of　toned…down　rich
  colors　which　are　so　very　beautiful。　　Richness　and　harmony　characterized
  the　room；　and　it　was　distinctively　Malay；　one　could　not　say　that　it
  reminded　one　of　anything　except　of　the　flecked　and　colored　light　which
  streams　through　dark；　old；　stained　glass。
  The　Datu　Bandar's　brother　and　uncle　came　in；　the　first　a　very　handsome
  Hadji；　with　a　bright；　intelligent　countenance。　He　has　lived　in　Mecca
  for　eight　years　studying　the　Koran　under　a　renowned　teacher；　and　in
  this　quest　of　Mussulman　learning　has　spent　several　thousand　dollars。
  〃We　never　go　to　Mecca　to　trade；〃　he　said；　〃we　go　for　religious　purposes
  only。〃　These　men　looked　superb　in　their　red　dresses　and　turbans；
  although　the　Malays　are　anything　but　a　handsome　race。　Their　hospitality
  was　very　graceful。　Many　of　the　wealthier　Mohammedans；　though　they　don't
  drink　wine；　keep　it　for　their　Christian　guests；　and　they　offered　us
  champagne；　which　is　supposed　to　be　an　irresistible　temptation　to　the
  Christian　palate。　On　our　refusing　it　they　brought　us　cow's　milk　and
  most　delicious　coffee　with　a　very　fragrant　aroma；　and　not　darker　in
  color　than　tea　of　an　average　strength。　This　was　made　from　roasted
  coffee　leaves。　　The　berries　are　exported。　A　good　many　pretty；　quiet
  children　stood　about；　but　though　the　Rajah　gave　us　to　understand　that
  they　were　the　offspring　of　three　mothers；　we　were　not　supposed　to　see
  any　of　〃the　mean　ones　within　the　gates。〃
  Our　hosts　had　a　good　deal　to　say；　and　did　not　leave　us　to　entertain
  them；　though　we　are　but　〃infidel　dogs。〃　That　we　are　regarded　as　such；
  along　with　all　other　unbelievers；　always　makes　me　feel　shy　with
  Mohammedans。　Some　time　ago；　when　Captain　Shaw　pressed　on　the　Malays　the
  impropriety　of　shooting　Chinamen；　as　they　were　then　in　the　habit　of
  doing；　the　reply　of　one　of　them　was；　〃Why　not　shoot　Chinamen？　　they've
  no　religion；〃　and　though　it　would　be　highly　discourteous　in　members　of
  a　ruled　race　to　utter　this　sentiment　regarding　their　rulers；　I　have　not
  the　least　doubt　that　it　is　their　profound　conviction　concerning
  ourselves。
  Nothing　shows　more　the　honesty　and　excellence　of　Captain　Murray's
  purposes　than　that　he　should　be　as　much　respected　and　loved　as　he　is　in
  spite　of　a　manner　utterly　opposed　to　all　Oriental　notions　of　dignity；
  whether　Malay　or　Chinese。　　I　have　mentioned　his　abruptness；　as　well　as
  his　sailor…like　heartiness；　but　they　never　came　into　such　strong　relief
  as　at　the　Datu　Bandar's；　against　the　solemn　and　dignified　courtesy　of
  our　hosts。
  We　returned　after　dark；　had　turtle…soup　and　turtle…steak；　not　near　so
  good　as　veal；　which　it　much　resembles；　for　dinner；　sang　〃Auld　Lang
  Syne；〃　which　brought　tears　into　the　Resident's　kindly　eyes；　and　are　now
  ready　for　an　early　start　to…morrow。
  Stadthaus；　Malacca。We　left　Serambang　before　daylight　on　Thursday　in
  buggies；　escorted　by　Captain　Murray；　the　buggies；　as　usual；　being　lent
  by　the　Chinese　〃Capitans。〃　Horses　had　been　sent　on　before；　and　after
  changing　them　we　drove　the　second　stage　through　most　magnificent
  forest；　until　they　could　no　longer　drag　the　buggies　through　the　mud；　at
  which　point　of　discomfiture　three　saddled　ponies　and　two　chairs　were
  waiting　to　take　us　through　the　jungle　to　the　river。　We　rode　along　an
  infamous　track；　much　of　it　knee…deep　in　mud；　through　a　green　and　silent
  twilight；　till　we　emerged　upon　something　like　English　park　and
  fox…cover　scenery；　varied　by　Malay　kampongs　under　groves　of　palms。　In
  the　full　blaze　of　noon　we　reached　the　Linggi　police　station；　from　which
  we　had　started　in　the　sampan；　and　were　received　by　a　company　of　police
  with　fixed　bayonets。　We　dined　in　the　police　station　veranda；　and　as　the
  launch　had　been　obliged　to　drop　down　the　river　because　the　water　was
  falling；　we　went　to　Sempang　in　a　native　boat；　paddled　by　four　Malays
  with　paddles　like　oval…ended　spades　with　spade　handles；　a　guard　of
  honor　of　policemen　going　down　with　us。　　There　we　took　leave　of　our　most
  kind　and　worthy　host；　who；　with　tears　in　his　kind　eyes；　immediately
  turned　up　the　river　to　dwell　alone　in　his　bungalow　with　his　bull…dog；
  his　revolver；　and　his　rifle；　a　self…exiled　man。*
  ＇*In　1881；　Captain　Murray；　feeling　ill　after　prolonged　exposure　to　the
  sun；　went　to　Malacca；　where　he　died　a　few　days　afterward　at　the　house　of
  his　friend　Mr。　Hayward。　Sir　F。　A。　Weld　writes　of　him　in　a　dispatch　to
  Lord　Kimberley：〃I　cannot　close　this　notice　of　the　State　of　Sungei
  Ujong　without　recalling　the　memory　of　Captain　Murray；　so　lately　its
  Resident；　to　whom　it　owes　much；　and　who　was　devoted　to　its　people　and
  interests。　A　man　of　great　honesty　of　purpose　and　kindliness　of　heart；
  Captain　Murray　possessed　many　of　those　qualities　which　are　required　for
  the　successful　administration　of　a　Malay　State；　and　though　he　labored
  under　the　disadvantage　of　want　of　knowledge　of　the　native　tongue；　he　yet
  was　able　to　attach　to　himself；　in　a　singular　manner；　the　affections　of
  all　around　him。　For　the　last　six　years；　Captain　Murray　has　successfully
  advised　in　the　administration　of　the　Government　of　Sungei　Ujong；
  consolidating　order　and　good　government；　and　doing　much　to　open　out　the
  country　and　develop　its　resources。　His　name　will　ever　be　associated　with
  its　prosperity；　and　his　memory　be　long　fresh　in　the　hearts　of　its
  inhabitants。〃＇
  After　it　grew　dark　we　had　the　splendid　sight　of　a　great　tract　of　forest
  on　fire　close　to　the　sea。　We　landed　here　at　a　pier　eight　hundred　feet
  long；　accessible　to　launches　at　high　water；　where　several　peons　and　two
  inspectors　of　police　met　us。　Our　expedition　has　been　the　talk　of　the
  little　foreign　world　of　Malacca。　We　had　an　enthusiastic　welcome　at
  Government　House；　but　Captain　Shaw　says　he　will　never　forgive　himself
  for　not　writing　to　Captain　Murray　in　time　to　arrange　our　transport；　and
  for　sending　us　off　so　hurriedly　with　so　little　food；　but　I　hope　by
  reiteration　to　convince　him　that　thereby　we　gained　the　night　on　the
  Linggi　river；　which；　as　a　traveling　experience；　is　worth　all　the　rest。
  I。　L。　B。
  A　CHAPTER　ON　SELANGOR*
  SelangorCapabilities　of　SelangorNatural　CapabilitiesLawlessness
  in　Se