went　down　and　interfered。　Even　after　everything　was　settled；　Miss　Shaw
  was　feeling　so　ill　that　she　wanted　to　stay　in　the　police　station　all
  night；　at　least；　but　Mr。　Hayward　and　I；　who　consulted　assiduously　about
  her；　were　of　opinion　that　we　must　move　her；　even　if　we　had　to　carry
  her；　for　if　she　were　going　to　have　fever；　I　could　nurse　her　at　Captain
  Murray's；　but　certainly　not　in　the　veranda　of　a　police　station！
  This　worthy　man；　who　is　very　brave；　and　used　to　facing　dangerwho　was
  the　first　European　to　come　up　here；　who　acted　as　guide　to　the　troops
  during　the　war；　and　afterward　disarmed　the　populationpositively
  quailed　at　having　charge　of　these　two　fragile　girls。　〃Oh；〃　he　repeated
  several　times；　〃if　anything　were　to　happen　to　the　Misses　Shaw　I　should
  never　get　over　it；　and　they　don't　know　what　roughing　it　is；　they　never
  should　have　been　allowed　to　come。〃　So　I　thought；　too；　as　I　looked　at
  one　of　them　lying　limp　and　helpless　on　a　Malay　bed；　but　my　share　of　the
  responsibility　for　them　was　comparatively　limited。　　Doubtless　his
  thoughts　strayed；　as　mine　did；　to　the　days　of　traveling　〃without
  encumbrance。〃　There　was　another　encumbrance　of　a　literal　kind。　They　had
  a　trunk！　This　indispensable　impediment　had　been　left　at　Malacca　in　the
  morning；　and　arrived　in　a　four…paddled　canoe　just　as　we　were　about　to
  start！
  Mr。　Hayward　prescribed　two　tablespoonfuls　of　whisky　for　Miss　Shaw；　for
  it　is　somewhat　of　a　risk　to　sleep　out　in　the　jungle　at　the　rainy
  season；　for　the　miasma　rises　twenty　feet；　and　the　day　had　been
  exceptionally　hot。　Our　rather　dismal　procession　started　at　seven；　Mr。
  Hayward　leading　the　way；　carrying　a　torch　made　of　strips　of　palm
  branches　bound　tightly　together　and　dipped　in　gum　dammar；　a　most
  inflammable　resin；　then　a　policeman；　the　sick　girl；　moaning　and
  stumbling；　leaning　heavily　on　her　sister　and　me；　Babu；　who　had　grown
  very　plucky；　a　train　of　policemen　carrying　our　baggage；　and　lastly；
  several　torch…bearers；　the　torches　dripping　fire　as　we　slowly　and
  speechlessly　passed　along。　　It　looked　like　a　funeral　or　something
  uncanny。　We　crawled　dismally　for　fully　three…quarters　of　a　mile　to　cut
  off　some　considerable　windings　of　the　river；　crossed　a　stream　on　a
  plank　bridge；　and　found　our　boat　lying　at　a　very　high　pier　with　a
  thatched　roof。
  The　mystery　of　night　in　a　strange　place　was　wildly　picturesque；　the
  pale；　greenish；　undulating　light　of　fireflies；　and　the　broad；　red
  waving　glare　of　torches　flashing　fitfully　on　the　skeleton　pier；　the
  lofty　jungle　trees；　the　dark；　fast…flowing　river；　and　the　dark；　lithe
  forms　of　our　half…naked　boatmen。
  The　prahu　was　a　flattish…bottomed　boat　about　twenty…two　and　a　half　feet
  long　by　six　and　a　half　feet　broad；　with　a　bamboo　gridiron　flooring
  resting　on　the　gunwale　for　the　greater　part　of　its　length。　This　was
  covered　for　seven　feet　in　the　middle　by　a　low；　circular　roof；　thatched
  with　attap。　　It　was　steered　by　a　broad　paddle　loosely　lashed；　and　poled
  by　three　men　who；　standing　at　the　bow；　planted　their　poles　firmly　in
  the　mud　and　then　walked　half…way　down　the　boat　and　back　again。　All
  craft　must　ascend　the　Linggi　by　this　laborious　process；　for　its　current
  is　so　strong　that　the　Japanese　would　call　it　one　long　〃rapid。〃
  Descending　loaded　with　tin；　the　stream　brings　boats　down　with　great
  rapidity；　the　poles　being　used　only　to　keep　them　off　the　banks　and
  shallows。　Our　boat　was　essentially　〃native。〃
  The　〃Golden　Chersonese〃　is　very　hot；　and　much　infested　by　things　which
  bite　and　sting。　Though　the　mercury　has　not　been　lower　than　80　degrees
  at　night　since　I　reached　Singapore；　I　have　never　felt　the　heat
  overpowering　in　a　house；　but　the　night　on　the　river　was　awful；　and
  after　the　intolerable　blaze　of　the　day　the　fighting　with　the　heat　and
  mosquitoes　was　most　exhausting；　crowded　as　we　were　into　very　close　and
  uneasy　quarters；　a　bamboo　gridiron　being　by　no　means　a　bed　of　down。　Bad
  as　it　was；　I　was　often　amused　by　the　thought　of　the　unusual　feast　which
  the　jungle　mosquitoes　were　having　on　the　blood　of　four　white　people。
  If　it　had　not　been　for　the　fire　in　the　bow；　which　helped　to　keep　them
  down　by　smoking　them　（and　us）；　I　at　least　should　now　be　laid　up　with
  〃mosquito　fever。〃
  The　Misses　Shaw　and　I　were　on　a　blanket　on　the　gridiron　under　the　roof；
  which　just　allowed　of　sitting　up；　Mr。　　Hayward；　who　had　never　been　up
  the　river　before；　and　was　anxious　about　the　navigation；　sat；　vigilant
  and　lynx…eyed；　at　the　edge　of　it；　Babu；　who　had　wrapped　himself　in
  Oriental　impassiveness　and　a　bernouse；　and　Mr。　Hayward's　police
  attendant　sat　in　front；　all　keeping　their　positions　throughout　the
  night　as　dutifully　as　the　figures　in　a　tableau　vivant；　and　so　we
  silently　left　Permatang　Pasir　for　our　jungle　voyage　of　eighteen　hours；
  in　which　time；　by　unintermitting　hard　work；　we　were　propelled　about　as
  many　miles；　though　some　say　twenty…nine。
  No　description　could　exaggerate　the　tortuosity　of　the　Linggi　or　the
  abruptness　of　its　windings。　The　boatmen　measure　the　distance　by　turns。
  When　they　were　asked　when　we　should　reach　the　end　they　never　said　in　so
  many　hours；　but　in　so　many　turns。
  Silently　we　glided　away　from　the　torchlight　into　the　apparently
  impenetrable　darkness；　but　the　heavens；　of　which　we　saw　a　patch　now　and
  then；　were　ablaze　with　stars；　and　ere　long　the　forms　of　trees　above　and
  around　us　became　tolerably　distinct。　Ten　hours　of　darkness　followed　as
  we　poled　our　slow　and　tedious　way　through　the　forest　gloom；　with　trees
  to　right　of　us；　trees　to　left　of　us；　trees　before　us；　trees　behind　us；
  trees　above　us；　and；　I　may　write；　trees　under　us；　so　innumerable　were
  the　snags　and　tree　trunks　in　the　river。　The　night　was　very　still；not
  a　leaf　moved；　and　at　times　the　silence　was　very　solemn。　I　expected；
  indeed；　an　unbroken　silence；　but　there　were　noises　that　I　shall　never
  forget。　Several　times　there　was　a　long　shrill　cry；　much　like　the
  Australian　〃Coo…ee；〃　answered　from　a　distance　in　a　tone　almost　human。
  This　was　the　note　of　the　grand　night　bird；　the　Argus　pheasant；　and　is
  said　to　resemble　the　cry　of　the　〃orang…outang；〃　the　Jakkuns；　or　the
  wild　men　of　the　interior。　A　sound　like　the　constant　blowing　of　a
  steam…whistle　in　the　distance　was　said　to　be　produced　by　a　large
  monkey。　Yells；　hoarse　or　shrill；　and　roars　more　or　less　guttural；　were
  significant　of　any　of　the　wild　beasts　with　which　the　forest　abounds；
  and　recalled　the　verse　in　Psalm　civ。；　〃Thou　makest　darkness　that　it　may
  be　night；　wherein　all　the　beasts　of　the　forest　do　move。〃　Then　there
  were　cries　as　of　fierce　gambols；　or　of　pursuit　and　capture；　of　hunter
  and　victim；　and　at　times；　in　the　midst　of　profound　stillness；　came　huge
  plungings；　with　accompanying　splashings；　which　I　thought　were　made　by
  alligators；　but　which　Captain　Murray　thinks　were　more　likely　the　riot
  of　elephants　disturbed　while　drinking。　　There　were　hundreds　of
  mysterious　and　unfamiliar　sounds　great　and　small；　significant　of　the
  unknown　beast；　reptile；　and　insect　world　which　the　jungle　hides；　and
  then　silences。
  Sheet　lightning；　very　blue；　revealed　at　intervals　the　strong　stream
  swirling　past　under　a　canopy　of　trees　falling　and　erect；　with　straight
  stems　one　hundred　and　fifty　feet　high　probably；　surmounted　by　crowns　of
  drooping　branches；　palms　with　their　graceful　plumage；　lianas　hanging；
  looping；　twistingtheir　orange　fruitage　hanging　over　our　heads；　great
  black　snags；　the　lithe；　wiry　forms　of　our　boat…men　always　straining　to
  their　utmost；　and　the　motionless　white　turban　of　the　Hadji；all　for　a
  second　relieved　against　the　broad　blue　flame；　to　be　again　lost　in
  darkness。
  The　Linggi　above　Permatang　Pasir；　with　its　sharp　turns　and　muddy　hurry；
  is；　I　should　say；　from　thirty　to　sixty　feet　wide；　a　mere　pathway
  through　the　jungle。　Do　not　think　of　a　jungle；　as　I　used　to　think　of　it；
  as　an　entanglement　or　thicket　of　profuse　and　matted　scrub；　for　it　is　in
  these　regions　at　least　a　noble　forest　of　majestic　trees；　many　of　them
  supported　at　their　roots　by　three　buttresses；　behind　which　thirty　men
  could　find　shelter。　On　many　of　the　top　branches　of　these；　other　trees
  have　taken　root　from　seeds　deposited　by　birds；　and　have　attained
  considerable　size；　and　all　send　down；　as　it　_appears_；　extraordinary
  cylindrical　strands　from　two　to　six　inches　in　diameter；　and　often　one
  hundred　and　fifty　feet　in　length；　smooth　and　straight　until　they　root
  themselves；　looking　like　the　guys　of　a　mast。　Under　these　giants　stand
  the　lesser　trees　grouped　in　glorious　confusion；cocoa；　sago；　areca；
  and　gomuti　palms；　nipah　and　nibong　palms；　tree　ferns　fifteen　and　twenty
  feet　high；　the　bread…fruit；　the　ebony；　the　damar；　the　india　rubber；　the
  gutta…percha；　the　cajeput；　the　banyan；　the　upas；　the　bombax　or　cotton
  tree；　and　hosts　of　others；　many　of　which　bear　brilliant　flowers；　but
  have　not　yet　been　botanized；　and　I　can　only　give　such　barbarous　names
  as　chumpaka；　Kamooning；　marbow；　seum；　dadap；　and；　loveliest　of　all；　the
  waringhan；　a　species　of　ficus；　graceful　as　a　birch；　and　underneath
  these　again　great　ferns；　ground　orchids；　and　flowering　shrubs　of　heavy；
  delicious　odor；　are　interlocked　and　interwoven。　Oh　that　you　could　see
  it　all！　It　is　wonderful；　no　words　could　describe　it；　far　less　mine。　Mr。
  Darwin　says　so　truly　that　a　visit　to　the