第 24 节
作者:无边的寒冷      更新:2021-03-11 18:28      字数:9322
  like our rule; form a respectable class of merchants here; as in all
  the great trading cities of the East。 The Javanese are numerous; and
  make good servants and sailors。 Some of the small merchants and many of
  the clerks are Portuguese immigrants from Malacca; and traders from
  Borneo; Sumatra; Celebes; Bali; and other islands of the Malay
  Archipelago are scattered among the throng。 The washermen and grooms
  are nearly all Bengalees。 Jews and Arabs make money and keep it; and
  are; as everywhere; shrewd and keen; and only meet their equals among
  the Chinese。 Among the twelve thousand natives of India who have been
  attracted to Singapore; and among all the mingled foreign
  nationalities; the Klings from the Coromandel coast; besides being the
  most numerous of all next to the Chinese; are the most attractive in
  appearance; and as there is no check on the immigration of their women;
  one sees the unveiled Kling beauties in great numbers。*
  '*The Singapore census returns for 1881 are by no means 〃dry reading;〃
  and they give a very imposing idea of the importance of the island。 It
  is interesting to note that of the 434 enumerators employed only seven
  were Europeans!
  The number of houses on the island is 20;462; the total population is
  139;208 souls; viz。; 105;423 males and 33;785 females。 The total
  increase in ten years is divided as follows:
  Europeans and Americans                            823
  Eurasians                                          930
  _Chinese_                                       32;194
  Malays and other natives of the Archipelago      6;954
  Tamils and other natives of India                  637
  Other nationalities                                559
  Among these 〃other nationalities〃 the great increase has been among the
  Arabs; who have nearly doubled their numbers。 Among the 〃Malays and
  other natives of the Archipelago〃 are included; Achinese; Boyanese;
  Bugis; Dyaks; Jawi…Pekans; and Manilamen。
  The European resident population; exclusive of the soldiers; is only
  1;283。 _The Chinese population is_ 86;766; the Malay; 22;114; the
  Tamil; 10;475; the Javanese; 5;881; and the Eurasian; 3;091。 In the
  very small European population 19 nationalities are included; the
  Germans numerically following the British。 Of 15;368 domestic servants;
  only 844 are women。'
  These Klings are active and industrious; but they lack fibre
  apparently; and that quick…sightedness for opportunities which makes
  the Chinese the most successful of all emigrants。 Not a Malay or a
  Kling has raised himself either as a merchant or in any other capacity
  to wealth or distinction in the colony。 The Klings make splendid
  boatmen; they drive gharries; run as syces; lend small sums of money at
  usurious interest; sell fruit; keep small shops; carry 〃chit books;〃
  and make themselves as generally useful as their mediocre abilities
  allow。 They are said to be a harmless people so far as deeds go。 They
  neither fight; organize; nor get into police rows; but they quarrel
  loudly and vociferously; and their vocabulary of abuse is said to be
  inexhaustible。 The Kling men are very fine…looking; lithe and active;
  and; as they clothe but little; their forms are seen to great
  advantage。 The women are; I think; beautifulnot so much in face as in
  form and carriage。 I am never weary of watching and admiring their
  inimitable grace of movement。 Their faces are oval; their foreheads
  low; their eyes dark and liquid; their noses shapely; but disfigured by
  the universal adoption of jewelled nose…rings; their lips full; but not
  thick or coarse; their heads small; and exquisitely set on long;
  slender throats; their ears small; but much dragged out of shape by the
  wearing of two or three hoop…earrings in each; and their glossy; wavy;
  black hair; which grows classically low on the forehead; is gathered
  into a Grecian knot at the back。 Their clothing; or rather drapery; is
  a mystery; for it covers and drapes perfectly; yet has no _make_; far
  less fit; and leaves every graceful movement unimpeded。 It seems to
  consist of ten wide yards of soft white muslin or soft red material; so
  ingeniously disposed as to drape the bust and lower limbs; and form a
  girdle at the same time。 One shoulder and arm are usually left bare。
  The part which may be called a petticoatthough the word is a slur
  upon the graceful draperyis short; and shows the finely turned
  ankles; high insteps; and small feet。 These women are tall; and
  straight as arrows; their limbs are long and rounded; their appearance
  is timid; one might almost say modest; and their walk is the poetry of
  movement。 A tall; graceful Kling woman; draped as I have described;
  gliding along the pavement; her statuesque figure the perfection of
  graceful ease; a dark pitcher on her head; just touched by the
  beautiful hand; showing the finely moulded arm; is a beautiful object;
  classical in form; exquisite in movement; and artistic in coloring; a
  creation of the tropic sun。  What thinks she; I wonder; if she thinks
  at all; of the pale European; paler for want of exercise and engrossing
  occupation; who steps out of her carriage in front of her; an
  ungraceful heap of poufs and frills; tottering painfully on high heels;
  in tight boots; her figure distorted into the shape of a Japanese sake
  bottle; every movement a struggle or a jerk; the clothing utterly
  unsuited to this or any climate; impeding motion; and affecting health;
  comfort; and beauty alike?
  It is all fascinating。 Here is none of the indolence and apathy which
  one associates with Oriental life; and which I have seen in Polynesia。
  These yellow; brown; tawny; swarthy; olive…tinted men are all intent on
  gain; busy; industrious; frugal; striving; and; no matter what their
  creed is; all paying homage to Daikoku。 In spite of the activity;
  rapidity; and earnestness; the movements of all but the Chinese are
  graceful; gliding; stealthy; the swarthy faces have no expression that
  I can read; and the dark; liquid eyes are no more intelligible to me
  than the eyes of oxen。 It is the 〃Asian mystery〃 all over。
  It is only the European part of Singapore which is dull and sleepy
  looking。 No life and movement congregate round the shops。 The
  merchants; hidden away behind jalousies in their offices; or dashing
  down the streets in covered buggies; make but a poor show。 Their houses
  are mostly pale; roomy; detached bungalows; almost altogether hidden by
  the bountiful vegetation of the climate。 In these their wives; growing
  paler every week; lead half…expiring lives; kept alive by the efforts
  of ubiquitous 〃punkah…wallahs;〃 writing for the mail; the one active
  occupation。 At a given hour they emerge; and drive in given directions;
  specially round the esplanade; where for two hours at a time a double
  row of handsome and showy equipages moves continuously in opposite
  directions。 The number of carriages and the style of dress of their
  occupants are surprising; and yet people say that large fortunes are
  not made now…a…days in Singapore! Besides the daily drive; the ladies;
  the officers; and any men who may be described as of 〃no occupation;〃
  divert themselves with kettle…drums; dances; lawn tennis; and various
  other devices for killing time; and this with the mercury at 80
  degrees! Just now the Maharajah of Johore; sovereign of a small state
  on the nearest part of the mainland; a man much petted and decorated by
  the British Government for unswerving fidelity to British interests;
  has a house here; and his receptions and dinner parties vary the
  monotonous round of gayeties。
  The native streets monopolize the picturesqueness of Singapore with
  their bizarre crowds; but more interesting still are the bazaars or
  continuous rows of open shops which create for themselves a perpetual
  twilight by hanging tatties or other screens outside the sidewalks;
  forming long shady alleys; in which crowds of buyers and sellers
  chaffer over their goods; the Chinese shopkeepers asking a little more
  than they mean to take; and the Klings always asking double。 The bustle
  and noise of this quarter are considerable; and the vociferation
  mingles with the ringing of bells and the rapid beating of drums and
  tom…tomsan intensely heathenish sound。 And heathenish this great city
  is。 Chinese joss…houses; Hindu temples; and Mohammedan mosques almost
  jostle each other; and the indescribable clamor of the temples and the
  din of the joss…houses are faintly pierced by the shrill cry from the
  minarets calling the faithful to prayer; and proclaiming the divine
  unity and the mission of Mahomet in one breath。
  How I wish I could convey an idea; however faint; of this huge;
  mingled; colored; busy; Oriental population; of the old Kling and
  Chinese bazaars; of the itinerant sellers of seaweed jelly; water;
  vegetables; soup; fruit; and cooked fish; whose unintelligible street
  cries are heard above the din of the crowds of coolies; boatmen; and
  gharriemen waiting for hire; of the far…stretching suburbs of Malay and
  Chinese cottages; of the sheet of water; by no means clean; round which
  hundreds of Bengalis are to be seen at all hours of daylight
  unmercifully beating on great stones the delicate laces; gauzy silks;
  a