第 23 节
作者:无边的寒冷      更新:2021-03-11 18:28      字数:9322
  tolerably steady between 80 degrees and 84 degrees; the extreme range
  of temperature being from 71 degrees to 92 degrees。 People sleep on
  Malay mats spread over their mattresses for coolness; some dispense
  with upper sheets; and others are fanned all night by punkahs。 The soft
  and tepid land and sea breezes mitigate the heat to a slight extent;
  but I should soon long for a blustering north…easter to break in upon
  the oppressive and vapor…bath stillness。
  As Singapore is a military station; and ships of war hang about
  constantly; there is a great deal of fluctuating society; and the
  officials of the Straits Settlements Government are numerous enough to
  form a large society of their own。 Then there is the merchant class;
  English; German; French; and American; and there is the usual round of
  gayety; and of the amusements which make life intolerable。 I think that
  in most of these tropical colonies the ladies exist only on the hope of
  going 〃home!〃 It is a dreary; aimless life for themscarcely life;
  only existence。 The greatest sign of vitality in Singapore Europeans
  that I can see is the furious hurry in writing for the mail。 To all
  sorts of claims and invitations; the reply is; 〃But it's mail day; you
  know;〃 or; 〃I'm writing for the mail;〃 or; 〃I'm awfully behind hand
  with my letters;〃 or; 〃I can't stir till the mail's gone!〃 The hurry is
  desperate; and even the feeble Englishwomen exert themselves for
  〃friends at home。〃 To judge from the flurry and excitement; and the
  driving down to the post…office at the last moment; and the commotion
  in the parboiled community; one would suppose the mail to be an
  uncertain event occurring once in a year or two; rather than the most
  regular of weekly fixtures! The incoming mail is also a great event;
  though its public and commercial news is anticipated by four weeks by
  the telegraph。
  The Americans boast of the rapid progress of San Francisco; with which
  the Victorians boast that Melbourne is running a neck and neck race;
  but; if boasting is allowable; Singapore may boast; for in 1818 the
  island was covered with dense primeval forest; and only a few miserable
  fishermen and pirates inhabited its creeks and rivers。 The prescience
  of Sir Stamford Raffles marked it out in 1819 as the site of the first
  free port in the Malayan Seas; but it was not till 1824 that it was
  formally ceded to the East India Company by the Sultan of Johore; and
  it only became a Crown colony in 1867; when it was erected into the
  capital of the Straits Settlements; which include Malacca and Pinang。
  Like Victoria; Singapore is a free port; and the vexatiousness of a
  custom…house is unknown。 The only tax which shipping pays is 1…1/2 per
  cent。 for the support of sundry lighthouses。 The list of its exports
  suggests heat。  They are chiefly sugar; pepper; tin; nutmegs; mace;
  sago; tapioca; rice; buffalo hides and horns; rattans; gutta; india
  rubber; gambier; gums; coffee; dye…stuffs; and tobacco; but the island
  itself; though its soil looks rich from its redness; only produces
  pepper and gambier。 It is a great entrepot; a gigantic distributing
  point。*
  '*The exports and imports of Singapore amounted in 1823 to 2;120;000
  pounds; in 1859…60 to 10;371;000 pounds; and in 1880; to 23;050;000
  pounds! In the latter year; tonnage to the amount of three millions of
  tons arrived in its harbor。 It must be observed that the imports; to a
  very large extent; are exported to other places。'
  The problem of raising a revenue without customs duties is solved by a
  stamp…tax; land…revenue; and (by far the most important); the sale of
  the monopolies of the preparation and retailing of opium for smoking;
  and of spirits and other excisable commodities; these monopolies being
  〃farmed〃 to private individuals; mostly Chinamen。 It is rather puzzling
  to hear 〃farmers〃 spoken of so near the equator。 A revenue of nearly
  half a million annually and a public debt of one hundred thousand
  pounds is not bad for so young a colony。 The prosperity of the Straits
  Settlements ports is a great triumph for free traders; and a traveler;
  even if; like myself; he has nothing but a canvas roll and a 〃Gladstone
  bag;〃 congratulates himself on being saved from the bother of
  unstrapping and restrapping stiffened and refractory straps; and from
  the tiresome delays of even the most courteous custom…house officers。
  The official circle is large; as I before remarked。 A Crown colony
  where the Government has it all its own way must be the paradise of
  officials; and the high sense of honor and the righteous esprit de
  corps which characterize our civil servants in the Far East; and a
  conscientious sense of responsibilities for the good government and
  well…being of the heterogeneous populations over which they rule; seem
  as good a check as the general run of colonial parliaments。
  The Governor; Sir William Robinson (now Sir F。 A。 Weld); is assisted by
  an Executive Council of eight members; and a Legislative Council
  consisting of nine official and six non…official members; including Mr。
  Whampoa; C。M。G。; a Chinaman of great wealth and enlightened public
  spirit; who is one of the foremost men in the colony。 Then on the Civil
  Establishment there are a legion of departments; the Colonial
  Secretary's office with a branch office and Chinese Protectorate; a
  Land Office; Printing Office; Treasury; Audit Office; Post Office;
  Public Works and Survey Department; Marine Department; Judicial
  Department; Attorney…General's Department; Sheriff's Department; Police
  Court and Police Department; and Ecclesiastical; Educational; Medical;
  and Prison Staffs。
  It is natural that when the mail has been worn threadbare and no
  stirring incidents present themselves; such as the arrival of a new
  ship of war or a touring foreign prince; and the receptions of Mr。
  Whampoa and the Maharajah of Johore have grown insipid; that much of
  local conversation should consist of speculations as to when or whether
  Mr。  will get promotion; when Mr。  will go home; or how much he
  has saved out of his salary; what influence has procured the
  appointment of Mr。  to Selangor or Perak; instead of Mr。 ;
  whose qualifications are higher; whether Mr。 's acting appointment
  will be confirmed; whether Mr。  will get one or two years' leave;
  whether some vacant appointment is to be filled up or abolished; and so
  on ad infinitum。 Such talk girdles the colonial world as completely as
  the telegraph; which has revolutionized European business here as
  elsewhere。
  The island is far less interesting than the city。 Its dense; dark
  jungle is broken up mainly by pepper and gambier plantations; the
  latter specially in new clearings。  The laborers on these are Chinese;
  and so are the wood…cutters and sawyers; who frequent the round…topped
  wooded undulations。 The climate is hotter and damper; to one's
  sensations at least; than the hottest and dampest of the tropical
  houses at Kew; and heat…loving insects riot。 The ants are a pest of the
  second magnitude; mosquitoes being of the first; the palm…trees and the
  piles of decaying leaves and bark being excellent nurseries for larvae。
  The vegetation is luxuriant; and in the dim; green twilight which is
  created by enormous forest trees there are endless varieties of ferns;
  calladiums; and parasitic plants; but except where a road has been cut
  and is kept open by continual labor; the climbing rattan palms make it
  impossible to explore。
  My short visit has been mainly occupied with the day at the Colonial
  Secretary's Lodge; and in walking and driving through the streets。 The
  city is ablaze with color and motley with costume。 The ruling race does
  not show to advantage。 A pale…skinned man or woman; costumed in our
  ugly; graceless clothes; reminds one not pleasingly; artistically at
  least; of our dim; pale islands。 Every Oriental costume from the Levant
  to China floats through the streetsrobes of silk; satin; brocade; and
  white muslin; emphasized by the glitter of 〃barbaric gold;〃 and Parsees
  in spotless white; Jews and Arabs in dark rich silks; Klings in Turkey
  red and white; Bombay merchants in great white turbans; full trousers;
  and draperies; all white; with crimson silk girdles; Malays in red
  sarongs; Sikhs in pure white Madras muslin; their great height rendered
  nearly colossal by the classic arrangement of their draperies; and
  Chinamen of all classes; from the coolie in his blue or brown cotton;
  to the wealthy merchant in his frothy silk crepe and rich brocade; make
  up an irresistibly fascinating medley。
  The English; though powerful as the ruling race; are numerically
  nowhere; and certainly make no impression on the eye。 The Chinese; who
  number eighty…six thousand out of a population of one hundred and
  thirty…nine thousand; are not only numerous enough; but rich and
  important enough to give Singapore the air of a Chinese town with a
  foreign settlement。 Then there are the native Malays; who have crowded
  into the island since we acquired it; till they number twenty…two
  thousand; and who; besides being tolerably industrious as boatmen and
  fishermen; form the main body of the police。 The Parsee merchants; who
  like our rule; form a respectable class of merchants here; as in all
  the g