第 9 节
作者:无边的寒冷      更新:2021-03-11 18:28      字数:9322
  as its summer is; the average rainfall scarcely exceeds seventy…eight
  inches; but it is hotter than Singapore in the hot season; though the
  latter is under eighty miles from the Equator。
  The causes by which this little island; which produces nothing; has
  risen into first…rate importance among our colonies are; that Victoria;
  with its magnificent harbor; is a factory for our Chinese commerce and
  offers unrivaled facilities for the military and naval forces which are
  necessary for the protection not only of that commerce but of our
  interests in the far East。 It is hardly too much to say that it is the
  naval and commercial terminus of the Suez Canal。 Will it be believed
  that the amount of British and foreign tonnage annually entering and
  leaving the port averages two millions of tons? and that the number of
  native vessels trading to it is about fifty…two thousand; raising the
  total ascertained tonnage to upward of three millions and a half; or
  half a million tons in excess of Singapore? To this must be added
  thousands of smaller native boats of every build and rig trading to
  Hong Kong; not only from the Chinese coasts and rivers; but from Siam;
  Japan; and Cochin China。 Besides the 〃P。 and O。;〃 the Messageries
  Maritimes; the Pacific Mail Company; the Eastern and Australian Mail
  Company; the Japanese 〃Mitsu Bichi〃 Mail Company; etc。; all regular
  mail lines; it has a number of lines of steamers trading to England;
  America; and Germany; with local lines both Chinese and English; and
  lines of fine sailing clippers; which; however; are gradually falling
  into disuse; owing to the dangerous navigation of the China seas; and
  the increasing demand for speed。
  Victorian firms have almost the entire control of the tea and silk
  trade; and Victoria is the centre of the trade in opium; sugar; flour;
  salt; earthenware; oil; amber; cotton; and cotton goods; sandal…wood;
  ivory; betel; vegetables; live stock; granite; and much else。 The much
  abused term 〃emporium of commerce〃 may most correctly be applied to it。
  It has five docks; three slips; and every requisite for making
  extensive repairs for ships of war and merchantmen。
  It has telegraphic communication with the whole civilized world; and
  its trade is kept thereby in a continual fever。
  It has a large garrison; for which it pays to England 20;000 pounds a
  year。 Were it not for this force; its six hundred and fifty policemen;
  of whom only one hundred and ten are Europeans; might not be able to
  overawe even as much as they do the rowdy and ruffianly elements of its
  heterogeneous population。 As it is; the wealthier foreign residents;
  for the security of their property; are obliged to supplement the
  services of the public caretakers by employing private watchmen; who
  patrol their grounds at night。 It must be admitted that the criminal
  classes are very rampageous in Victoria; whether from undue and unwise
  leniency in the treatment of crime; or whether from the extraordinary
  mass of criminals to which our flag affords security is not for a
  stranger to say; though the general clamor raised when I visited the
  great Chinese prison in Canton; 〃I wish I were in your prison in Hong
  Kong;〃 and my own visit to the Victoria prison; render the former
  suspicion at least permissible。
  Hong Kong possesses the usual establishment of a Crown Colony; and the
  government is administered by a Governor; aided by a Legislative
  Council; of which he is the President; and which is composed of the
  Chief Justice; the Colonial Secretary; the Attorney…General; the
  Treasurer; and four unofficial members; nominated by the Crown on the
  Governor's recommendation。
  The enormous preponderance of the mixed Oriental population is a source
  of some difficulty; and it is not easy by our laws to punish and
  destroy a peculiarly hateful form of slavery which is recognized by
  Chinese custom; and which has attained gigantic proportions in
  Victoria。 There is an immense preponderance of the masculine element;
  nearly six to one among the Europeans; and among the Orientals the men
  are nearly two and a half times as numerous as the women。
  As Victoria is a free port; it is impossible to estimate the value of
  its imports and exports; but its harbor; full of huge merchantmen; and
  craft of all nations; its busy wharves; its crowd of lighters loading
  and unloading by day and night; its thronged streets and handsome
  shops; its huge warehouses; packed with tea; silk; and all the costly
  products of the East; and its hillsides terraced with the luxurious
  houses of its merchants; all say; 〃Circumspice; these are better than
  statistics!〃'
  I。 L。 B。
  LETTER III
  The S。S。 Kin KiangFirst View of CantonThe Island of
  ShameenEngland in CantonThe Tartar CityDrains and
  BarricadesCanton at NightStreet PicturesquenessGhastly
  GiftsOriental EnchantmentsThe Examination Hall
  S。S。 〃KIN KIANG;〃 December 30。
  You will remember that it is not very long since a piratical party of
  Chinese; shipping as steerage passengers on board one of these Hong
  Kong river steamers; massacred the officers and captured the boat。 On
  board this great; white; deck…above…deck American steamer there is but
  one European passenger beside myself; but there are four hundred and
  fifty second…class passengers; Chinamen; with the exception of a few
  Parsees; all handsomely dressed; nearly all smoking; and sitting or
  lying over the saloon deck up to the saloon doors。 In the steerage
  there are fifteen hundred Chinese steerage passengers; all men。 The
  Chinese are a noisy people; their language is inharmonious; and the
  lower class male voices; at least; are harsh and coarse。 The fifteen
  hundred men seem to be all shouting at once; and the din which comes up
  through the hatchways is fearful。 This noisy mass of humanity is
  practically imprisoned below; for there is a heavy iron grating
  securely padlocked over each exit; and a European; 〃armed to the
  teeth;〃 stands by each; ready to shoot the first man who attempts to
  force it。 In this saloon there is a stand of six rifles with bayonets;
  and four revolvers; and; as we started; a man carefully took the
  sheaths off the bayonets; and loaded the firearms with ball cartridge。
  Canton; January 1; 1879。The Canton river for the ninety miles up here
  has nothing interesting about it。 Soon after leaving Hong Kong the
  country becomes nearly a dead level; mainly rice…swamps varied by
  patches of bananas; with their great fronds torn to tatters by the
  prevailing strong breeze。 A very high pagoda marks Whampoa; once a
  prosperous port; but now; like Macao; nearly deserted。 An hour after
  disgorging three boat loads of Chinamen at Whampoa; we arrived at the
  beginning of Canton; but it took more than half an hour of cautious
  threading of our way among junks; sampans; house…boats; and
  slipper…boats; before we moored to the crowded and shabby wharf。 If my
  expectations of Canton had been much raised they would certainly have
  been disappointed; for the city stands on a perfectly level site; and
  has no marked features within or around it except the broad and
  bridgeless tidal river which sweeps through it at a rapid rate。 In the
  distance are the White…Cloud hills; which were painted softly in
  amethyst on a tender green sky; and nearer are some rocky hills; which
  are red at all hours of daylight。 Boats and masts conceal the view of
  the city from the river to a great extent; but even when from a vantage
  ground it is seen spread out below; it is so densely packed; its
  streets are so narrow; and its open spaces so few; that one almost
  doubts whether the million and a half of people attributed to it are
  really crowded within the narrow area。 From the river; and indeed from
  any point of view; Canton is less imposing even than Tokiyo。  Few
  objects rise above the monotonous level; and the few are unimpressive。
  There are two or three pagodas looking like shot towers。 There is a
  double…towered Romish cathedral of great size; not yet finished。 There
  is the 〃Nine…storied pagoda。〃 But in truth the most prominent objects
  from the river are the 〃godowns〃 of the pawnbrokers; lofty; square
  towers of gray brick which dominate the city; play a very important
  part in its social economy; and are very far removed from those
  establishments with the trinity of gilded balls; which hide themselves
  shamefacedly away in our English by…streets。 At one part of the
  riverside there are some substantial looking foreign houses among
  trees; on the site of the foreign factories of former days; but they
  and indeed all else are hidden by a crowd of boats; a town of boats; a
  floating suburb。 Indeed; boats are my earliest and strongest
  impressions of what on my arrival I was hasty enough to think a mean
  city。 It is not only along the sides of the broad Pearl river; but
  along the network of innumerable canals and creeks which communicate
  with it; that they are found。
  These boats; the first marvel of a marvelous city; have come between me
  and my landing。 When the steamer had disgorged her two thousand
  passengers; Mr。 Mackrill Smith; whose guest I am; brought me in a
  bamboo chair; carried by two coolies; through a covered and crowded
  street of merchandise six feet wide; to Sham