第 66 节
作者:恐龙王      更新:2021-03-08 19:22      字数:9322
  alone。  If you understand me no better than THAT; sir and madam;
  let me alone。  You mean very well; I dare say; but I don't like it;
  and I won't come here again to have any more of it。'
  Whatever is done for the comfort and advancement of the working man
  must be so far done by himself as that it is maintained by himself。
  And there must be in it no touch of condescension; no shadow of
  patronage。  In the great working districts; this truth is studied
  and understood。  When the American civil war rendered it necessary;
  first in Glasgow; and afterwards in Manchester; that the working
  people should be shown how to avail themselves of the advantages
  derivable from system; and from the combination of numbers; in the
  purchase and the cooking of their food; this truth was above all
  things borne in mind。  The quick consequence was; that suspicion
  and reluctance were vanquished; and that the effort resulted in an
  astonishing and a complete success。
  Such thoughts passed through my mind on a July morning of this
  summer; as I walked towards Commercial Street (not Uncommercial
  Street); Whitechapel。  The Glasgow and Manchester system had been
  lately set a…going there; by certain gentlemen who felt an interest
  in its diffusion; and I had been attracted by the following hand…
  bill printed on rose…coloured paper:
  SELF…SUPPORTING
  COOKING DEPOT
  FOR THE WORKING CLASSES
  Commercial…street; Whitechapel;
  Where Accommodation is provided for Dining comfortably
  300 Persons at a time。
  Open from 7 A。M。 till 7 P。M。
  PRICES。
  All Articles of the BEST QUALITY。
  Cup of Tea or Coffee           One Penny
  Bread and Butter               One Penny
  Bread and Cheese               One Penny
  Slice of bread                 One half…penny or
  One Penny
  Boiled Egg                     One Penny
  Ginger Beer                    One Penny
  The above Articles always ready。
  Besides the above may be had; from 12 to 3 o'clock;
  Bowl of Scotch Broth           One Penny
  Bowl of Soup                   One Penny
  Plate of Potatoes              One Penny
  Plate of Minced Beef           Twopence
  Plate of Cold Beef             Twopence
  Plate of Cold Ham              Twopence
  Plate of Plum Pudding or Rice  One Penny
  As the Economy of Cooking depends greatly upon the simplicity of
  the arrangements with which a great number of persons can be served
  at one time; the Upper Room of this Establishment will be
  especially set apart for a
  PUBLIC DINNER EVERY DAY
  From 12 till 3 o'clock;
  CONSISTING OF THE FOLLOWING DISHES;
  Bowl of Broth; or Soup;
  Plate of Cold Beef or Ham;
  Plate of Potatoes;
  Plum Pudding; or Rice。
  FIXED CHARGE 4。5D。
  THE DAILY PAPERS PROVIDED。
  N。B。 … This Establishment is conducted on the strictest business
  principles; with the full intention of making it self…supporting;
  so that every one may frequent it with a feeling of perfect
  independence。
  The assistance of all frequenting the Depot is confidently expected
  in checking anything interfering with the comfort; quiet; and
  regularity of the establishment。
  Please do not destroy this Hand Bill; but hand it to some other
  person whom it may interest。
  The Self…Supporting Cooking Depot (not a very good name; and one
  would rather give it an English one) had hired a newly…built
  warehouse that it found to let; therefore it was not established in
  premises specially designed for the purpose。  But; at a small cost
  they were exceedingly well adapted to the purpose:  being light;
  well ventilated; clean; and cheerful。  They consisted of three
  large rooms。  That on the basement story was the kitchen; that on
  the ground floor was the general dining…room; that on the floor
  above was the Upper Room referred to in the hand…bill; where the
  Public Dinner at fourpence…halfpenny a head was provided every day。
  The cooking was done; with much economy of space and fuel; by
  American cooking…stoves; and by young women not previously; brought
  up as cooks; the walls and pillars of the two dining…rooms were
  agreeably brightened with ornamental colours; the tables were
  capable of accommodating six or eight persons each; the attendants
  were all young women; becomingly and neatly dressed; and dressed
  alike。  I think the whole staff was female; with the exception of
  the steward or manager。
  My first inquiries were directed to the wages of this staff;
  because; if any establishment claiming to be self…supporting; live
  upon the spoliation of anybody or anything; or eke out a feeble
  existence by poor mouths and beggarly resources (as too many so…
  called Mechanics' Institutions do); I make bold to express my
  Uncommercial opinion that it has no business to live; and had
  better die。  It was made clear to me by the account books; that
  every person employed was properly paid。  My next inquiries were
  directed to the quality of the provisions purchased; and to the
  terms on which they were bought。  It was made equally clear to me
  that the quality was the very best; and that all bills were paid
  weekly。  My next inquiries were directed to the balance…sheet for
  the last two weeks … only the third and fourth of the
  establishment's career。  It was made equally clear to me; that
  after everything bought was paid for; and after each week was
  charged with its full share of wages; rent and taxes; depreciation
  of plant in use; and interest on capital at the rate of four per
  cent。 per annum; the last week had yielded a profit of (in round
  numbers) one pound ten; and the previous week a profit of six
  pounds ten。  By this time I felt that I had a healthy appetite for
  the dinners。
  It had just struck twelve; and a quick succession of faces had
  already begun to appear at a little window in the wall of the
  partitioned space where I sat looking over the books。  Within this
  little window; like a pay…box at a theatre; a neat and brisk young
  woman presided to take money and issue tickets。  Every one coming
  in must take a ticket。  Either the fourpence…halfpenny ticket for
  the upper room (the most popular ticket; I think); or a penny
  ticket for a bowl of soup; or as many penny tickets as he or she
  choose to buy。  For three penny tickets one had quite a wide range
  of choice。  A plate of cold boiled beef and potatoes; or a plate of
  cold ham and potatoes; or a plate of hot minced beef and potatoes;
  or a bowl of soup; bread and cheese; and a plate of plum…pudding。
  Touching what they should have; some customers on taking their
  seats fell into a reverie … became mildly distracted … postponed
  decision; and said in bewilderment; they would think of it。  One
  old man I noticed when I sat among the tables in the lower room;
  who was startled by the bill of fare; and sat contemplating it as
  if it were something of a ghostly nature。  The decision of the boys
  was as rapid as their execution; and always included pudding。
  There were several women among the diners; and several clerks and
  shopmen。  There were carpenters and painters from the neighbouring
  buildings under repair; and there were nautical men; and there
  were; as one diner observed to me; 'some of most sorts。'  Some were
  solitary; some came two together; some dined in parties of three or
  four; or six。  The latter talked together; but assuredly no one was
  louder than at my club in Pall…Mall。  One young fellow whistled in
  rather a shrill manner while he waited for his dinner; but I was
  gratified to observe that he did so in evident defiance of my
  Uncommercial individuality。  Quite agreeing with him; on
  consideration; that I had no business to be there; unless I dined
  like the rest; 'I went in;' as the phrase is; for fourpence…
  halfpenny。
  The room of the fourpence…halfpenny banquet had; like the lower
  room; a counter in it; on which were ranged a great number of cold
  portions ready for distribution。  Behind this counter; the fragrant
  soup was steaming in deep cans; and the best…cooked of potatoes
  were fished out of similar receptacles。  Nothing to eat was touched
  with his hand。  Every waitress had her own tables to attend to。  As
  soon as she saw a new customer seat himself at one of her tables;
  she took from the counter all his dinner … his soup; potatoes;
  meat; and pudding … piled it up dexterously in her two hands; set
  it before him; and took his ticket。  This serving of the whole
  dinner at once; had been found greatly to simplify the business of
  attendance; and was also popular with the customers:  who were thus
  enabled to vary the meal by varying the routine of dishes:
  beginning with soup…to…day; putting soup in the middle to…morrow;
  putting soup at the end the day after to…morrow; and ringing
  similar changes on meat and pudding。  The rapidity with which every
  new…comer got served; was remarkable; and the dexterity with which
  the waitresses (quite new to the art a month before) disch