was　two　feet　deep　at　Sebastopol。〃
  〃I　heard　three；〃　said　the　man；　〃however；　if　there　be　but　two　it
  must　be　bad　work　for　the　poor　soldiers。　　I　suppose　you　think　that
  we　shall　beat　the　Russians　in　the　end。〃
  〃No；　I　don't；〃　said　I；　〃the　Russians　are　a　young　nation　and　we　are
  an　old；　they　are　coming　on　and　we　are　going　off；　every　dog　has　its
  day。〃
  〃That's　true；〃　said　the　man；　〃but　I　am　sorry　that　you　think　we
  shall　not　beat　the　Russians；　for　the　Russians　are　a　bad　set。〃
  〃Can　you　speak　Welsh？〃　said　a　darkish　man　with　black；　bristly　hair
  and　a　small　inquisitive　eye。
  〃Oh；　I　know　two　words　in　Welsh；〃　said　I；　〃bara　y　caws。〃
  〃That's　bread　and　cheese；〃　said　the　man；　then　turning　to　a
  neighbour　of　his　he　said　in　Welsh：　　〃He　knows　nothing　of　Cumraeg；
  only　two　words；　we　may　say　anything　we　please；　he　can't　understand
  us。　　What　a　long　nose　he　has！〃
  〃Mind　that　he　an't　nosing　us；〃　said　his　neighbour。　　〃I　should　be
  loth　to　wager　that　he　doesn't　understand　Welsh；　and；　after　all；　he
  didn't　say　that　he　did　not；　but　got　off　by　saying　he　understood
  those　two　words。〃
  〃No；　he　doesn't　understand　Welsh；〃　said　the　other；　〃no　Sais
  understands　Welsh；　and　this　is　a　Sais。　　Now　with　regard　to　that
  piece　of　job…work　which　you　and　I　undertook。〃　　And　forthwith　he　and
  the　other　entered　into　a　disquisition　about　the　job…work。
  The　company　soon　got　into　its　old　train；　drinking　and　smoking　and
  making　a　most　terrific　hullabaloo。　　Nobody　took　any　farther　notice
  of　me。　　I　sat　snug　in　the　chimney…corner；　trying　to　dry　my　wet
  things；　and　as　the　heat　was　very　great；　partially　succeeded。　　In
  about　half…an…hour　one　of　the　girls　came　to　tell　me　that　my　supper
  was　ready；　whereupon　I　got　up　and　said：
  〃Gentlemen；　I　thank　you　for　your　civility；　I　am　now　going　to
  supper；　perhaps　before　I　turn　in　for　the　night　I　may　look　in　upon
  you　again。〃　　Then　without　waiting　for　an　answer　I　left　the　kitchen
  and　went　into　the　other　room；　where　I　found　a　large　dish　of　veal
  cutlets　and　fried　bacon　awaiting　me；　and　also　a　smoking　bowl　of
  potatoes。　　Ordering　a　jug　of　ale　I　sat　down；　and　what　with　hunger
  and　the　goodness　of　the　fare；　for　everything　was　first…rate；　made
  one　of　the　best　suppers　I　ever　made　in　my　life。
  Supper　over　I　called　for　a　glass　of　whiskey…and…water；　over　which　I
  trifled　for　about　half…an…hour　and　then　betook　myself　again　to　the
  kitchen。　　Almost　as　soon　as　I　entered；　the　company　…　who　seemed　to
  be　discussing　some　point；　and　were　not　making　much　hurly…burly　…
  became　silent；　and　looked　at　me　in　a　suspicious　and　uneasy　manner。
  I　advanced　towards　the　fire。　　The　old　man　who　had　occupied　the　seat
  in　the　chimney…corner　and　had　resigned　it　to　me；　had　again　taken
  possession　of　it。　　As　I　drew　near　to　the　fire　he　looked　upon　the
  ground；　and　seemed　by　no　means　disposed　to　vacate　the　place　of
  honour；　after　a　few　moments；　however；　he　got　up　and　offered　me　the
  seat　with　slight　motion　of　his　hand　and　without　saying　a　word。　　I
  did　not　decline　it　but　sat　down；　and　the　old　gentleman　took　a　chair
  near。　　Universal　silence　now　prevailed；　sullen　looks　were　cast　at
  me；　and　I　saw　clearly　enough　that　I　was　not　welcome。　　Frankness　was
  now　my　only　resource。　　〃What's　the　matter；　gentlemen？〃　said　I；　〃you
  are　silent　and　don't　greet　me　kindly；　have　I　given　you　any　cause　of
  offence？〃　　No　one　uttered　a　word　in　reply　for　nearly　a　minute；　when
  the　old　man　said　slowly　and　deliberately：　　〃Why；　sir；　the　long　and
  short　of　it　is　this：　　we　have　got　it　into　our　heads　that　you
  understand　every　word　of　our　discourse；　now；　do　you　or　do　you　not？〃
  〃Understand　every　word　of　your　discourse？〃　said　I；　〃I　wish　I　did；　I
  would　give　five　pounds　to　understand　every　word　of　your　discourse。〃
  〃That's　a　clever　attempt　to　get　off；　sir；〃　said　the　old　man；　〃but
  it　won't　exactly　do。　　Tell　us　whether　you　know　more　Welsh　than　bara
  y　caws；　or　to　speak　more　plainly；　whether　you　understand　a　good
  deal　of　what　we　say。〃
  〃Well；〃　said　I；　〃I　do　understand　more　Welsh　than　bara　y　caws　…　I　do
  understand　a　considerable　part　of　a　Welsh　conversation；　moreover；　I
  can　read　Welsh；　and　have　the　life　of　Tom　O'r　Nant　at　my　fingers'
  ends。〃
  〃Well；　sir；　that　is　speaking　plain；　and　I　will　tell　you　plainly
  that　we　don't　like　to　have　strangers　among　us　who　understand　our
  discourse；　more　especially　if　they　be　gentlefolks。〃
  〃That's　strange；〃　said　I；　〃a　Welshman　or　foreigner；　gentle　or
  simple；　may　go　into　a　public…house　in　England；　and　nobody　cares　a
  straw　whether　he　understands　the　discourse　of　the　company　or　not。〃
  〃That　may　be　the　custom　in　England；〃　said　the　old　man；　〃but　it　is
  not　so　in　Wales。〃
  〃What　have　you　got　to　conceal？〃　said　I；　〃I　suppose　you　are　honest
  men。〃
  〃I　hope　we　are；　sir；〃　said　the　old　man；　〃but　I　must　tell　you；　once
  for　all；　that　we　don't　like　strangers　to　listen　to　our　discourse。〃
  〃Come；〃　said　I；　〃I　will　not　listen　to　your　discourse；　but　you　shall
  listen　to　mine。　　I　have　a　wonderful　deal　to　say　if　I　once　begin；　I
  have　been　everywhere。〃
  〃Well；　sir；〃　said　the　old　man；　〃if　you　have　anything　to　tell　us
  about　where　you　have　been　and　what　you　have　seen；　we　shall　be　glad
  to　hear　you。〃
  〃Have　you　ever　been　in　Russia？〃　shouted　a　voice；　that　of　the　large
  rough　fellow　who　asked　me　the　question　about　the　Russian　war。
  〃Oh　yes；　I　have　been　in　Russia；〃　said　I。
  〃Well；　what　kind　of　a　country　is　it？〃
  〃Very　different　from　this；〃　said　I；　〃which　is　a　little　country　up
  in　a　corner；　full　of　hills　and　mountains；　that　is　an　immense
  country；　extending　from　the　Baltic　Sea　to　the　confines　of　China；
  almost　as　flat　as　a　pancake；　there　not　being　a　hill　to　be　seen　for
  nearly　two　thousand　miles。〃
  〃A　very　poor　country　isn't　it；　always　covered　with　ice　and　snow？〃
  〃Oh　no；　it　is　one　of　the　richest　countries　in　the　world；　producing
  all　kinds　of　grain；　with　noble　rivers　intersecting　it；　and　in　some
  parts　covered　with　stately　forests。　　In　the　winter；　which　is　rather
  long；　there　is　a　good　deal　of　ice　and　snow；　it　is　true；　but　in　the
  summer　the　weather　is　warmer　than　here。〃
  〃And　are　there　any　towns　and　cities　in　Russia；　sir；　as　there　are　in
  Britain？〃　said　the　old　man　who　had　resigned　his　seat　in　the
  chimney…corner　to　me；　〃I　suppose　not；　or　if　there　be；　nothing　equal
  to　Hereford　or　Bristol；　in　both　of　which　I　have　been。〃
  〃Oh　yes；〃　said　I；　〃there　are　plenty　of　towns　and　cities。　　The　two
  principal　ones　are　Moscow　and　Saint　Petersburg；　both　of　which　are
  capitals。　　Moscow　is　a　fine　old　city；　far　up　the　country；　and　was
  the　original　seat　of　empire。　　In　it　there　is　a　wonderful　building
  called　the　Kremlin；　situated　on　a　hill。　　It　is　partly　palace；
  partly　temple；　and　partly　fortress。　　In　one　of　its　halls　are　I
  don't　know　how　many　crowns；　taken　from　various　kings　whom　the
  Russians　have　conquered。　　But　the　most　remarkable　thing　in　the
  Kremlin　is　a　huge　bell　in　a　cellar　or　cave；　close　by　one　of　the
  churches；　it　is　twelve　feet　high；　and　the　sound　it　gives　when
  struck　with　an　iron　bar；　for　there　are　no　clappers　to　Russian
  bells；　is　so　loud　that　the　common　Russians　say　it　can　be　heard　over
  the　empire。　　The　other　city；　Saint　Petersburg；　where　the　Court
  generally　reside；　is　a　modern　and　very　fine　city；　so　fine　indeed；
  that　I　have　no　hesitation　in　saying　that　neither　Bristol　nor
  Hereford　is　worthy　to　be　named　in　the　same　day　with　it。　　Many　of
  the　streets　are　miles　in　length；　and　straight　as　an　arrow。　　The
  Nefsky　Prospect；　as　it　is　called；　a　street　which　runs　from　the
  grand　square；　where　stands　the　Emperor's　palace；　to　the　monastery
  of　Saint　Alexander　Nefsky；　is　nearly　three　miles　in　length；　and　is
  full　of　noble　shops　and　houses。　　The　Neva；　a　river　twice　as　broad
  and　twice　as　deep　as　the　Thames；　and　whose　waters　are　clear　as
  crystal；　runs　through　the　town；　having　on　each　side　of　it　a　superb
  quay；　fenced　with　granite；　which　affords　one　of　the　most　delightful
  walks　imaginable。　　If　I　had　my　choice　of　all　the　cities　of　the
  world　to　live　in；　I　would　choose　Saint　Petersburg。〃
  〃And　did　you　ever　see　the　Emperor？〃　said　the　rough　fellow；　whom　I
  have　more　than　once　mentioned；　〃did　you　ever　see　the　Emperor
  Nicholas？〃
  〃Oh　yes：　　I　have　seen　him　frequently。〃
  〃Well；　what　kind　of　a　man　is　he？　we　should　like　to　know。〃
  〃A　man　of　colossal　stature；　with　a　fine；　noble；　but　rather　stern
  and　severe　aspect。　　I　think　I　now　see　him；　with　his　grey　cloak；
  cocked　hat；　and　white　waving　plumes；　striding　down　the　Nefsky
  Prospect；　and　towering　by　a　whole　head　over　other　people。〃
  〃Bravo！　　Did　you　ever　see　him　at　the　head　of　his　soldiers？〃
  〃Oh　yes！　　I　have　seen　the　Emperor　review　forty　thousand　of　his
  chosen　troops　in　the　Champs　de　Mars；　and　a　famous　sight　it　was。
  There　stood　the　great；　proud　man　looking　at　his　warriors　as　they
  manoeuvred　before　him。　　Two…thirds　of　them　were　cavalry；　and　each
  horseman　was　mounted　on　a　beautiful　blood　charger　of　Cossack　or
  English　breed；　and　arrayed　in　a　superb　uniform。　　The　blaze；　glitter
  and　glory　were　too　much　for　my　eyes；　and　I　was　frequently　obliged
  to　turn　them　away。　　The　scene　upon　the　whole　put　me　in　mind　of　an
  immense　field　of　tulips　of　various　dyes；　for　the　colours　of　the
  dresses；　of　the　bann