stopped　till　we　had　got　ten　miles　from　the　place；　and　well　it　was
  we　acted　as　we　did；　for；　had　we　stayed；　I　have　no　doubt　that　a
  whole　Hindity　clan　would　have　been　down　upon　us　before　morning　and
  cut　our　throats。〃
  〃Well；〃　said　I；　〃farewell。　　I　can't　stay　any　longer。　　As　it　is；　I
  shall　be　late　at　Gutter　Vawr。〃
  〃Farewell；　brother！〃　said　Captain　Bosvile；　and；　giving　a　cry；　he
  cracked；　his　whip　and　set　his　horses　in　motion。
  〃Won't　you　give　us　sixpence　to　drink？〃　cried　Mrs　Bosvile；　with　a
  rather　shrill　voice。
  〃Hold　your　tongue；　you　she…dog；〃　said　Captain　Bosvile。　　〃Is　that
  the　way　in　which　you　take　leave　of　an　old　friend？　　Hold　your
  tongue；　and　let　the　Ingrine　gentleman　jaw　on　his　way。〃
  I　proceeded　on　my　way　as　fast　as　I　could；　for　the　day　was　now
  closing　in。　　My　progress；　however；　was　not　very　great；　for　the　road
  was　steep；　and　was　continually　becoming　more　so。　　In　about　half…an…
  hour　I　came　to　a　little　village；　consisting　of　three　or　four
  houses；　one　of　them；　at　the　door　of　which　several　carts　were
  standing；　bore　the　sign　of　a　tavern。
  〃What　is　the　name　of　this　place？〃　said　I　to　a　man　who　was　breaking
  stones　on　the　road。
  〃Capel　Gwynfa；〃　said　he。
  Rather　surprised　at　the　name；　which　signifies　in　English　the　Chapel
  of　the　place　of　bliss；　I　asked　the　man　why　it　was　called　so。
  〃I　don't　know；〃　said　the　man。
  〃Was　there　ever　a　chapel　here？〃　said　I。
  〃I　don't　know；　sir；　there　is　none　now。〃
  〃I　daresay　there　was　in　the　old　time；〃　said　I　to　myself；　as　I　went
  on；　〃in　which　some　holy　hermit　prayed　and　told　his　beads；　and
  occasionally　received　benighted　strangers。　　What　a　poetical　word
  that　Gwynfa；　place　of　bliss；　is。　　Owen　Pugh　uses　it　in　his
  translation　of　'Paradise　Lost'　to　express　Paradise；　for　he　has
  rendered　the　words　Paradise　Lost　by　Col　Gwynfa　…　the　loss　of　the
  place　of　bliss。　　I　wonder　whether　the　old　scholar　picked　up　the
  word　here。　　Not　unlikely。　　Strange　fellow　that　Owen　Pugh。　　Wish　I
  had　seen　him。　　No　hope　of　seeing　him　now；　except　in　the　heavenly
  Gwynfa。　　Wonder　whether　there　is　such　a　place。　　Tom　Payne　thinks
  there's　not。　　Strange　fellow　that　Tom　Payne。　　Norfolk　man。　　Wish　I
  had　never　read　him。〃
  Presently　I　came　to　a　little　cottage　with　a　toll…bar。　　Seeing　a
  woman　standing　at　the　door；　I　inquired　of　her　the　name　of　the　gate。
  〃Cowslip　Gate；　sir。〃
  〃Has　it　any　Welsh　name？〃
  〃None　that　I　know　of；　sir。〃
  This　place　was　at　a　considerable　altitude；　and　commanded　an
  extensive　view　to　the　south；　west；　and　north。　　Heights　upon　heights
  rose　behind　it　to　the　east。　　From　here　the　road　ran　to　the　south
  for　a　little　way　nearly　level；　then　turned　abruptly　to　the　east；
  and　was　more　steep　than　ever。　　After　the　turn；　I　had　a　huge　chalk
  cliff　towering　over　me　on　the　right；　and　a　chalk　precipice　on　my
  left。　　Night　was　now　coming　on　fast；　and；　rather　to　my　uneasiness；
  masses　of　mist　began　to　pour　down　the　sides　of　the　mountain。　　I
  hurried　on；　the　road　making　frequent　turnings。　　Presently　the　mist
  swept　down　upon　me；　and　was　so　thick　that　I　could　only　see　a　few
  yards　before　me。　　I　was　now　obliged　to　slacken　my　pace；　and　to
  advance　with　some　degree　of　caution。　　I　moved　on　in　this　way　for
  some　time；　when　suddenly　I　heard　a　noise；　as　if　a　number　of　carts
  were　coming　rapidly　down　the　hill。　　I　stopped；　and　stood　with　my
  back　close　against　the　high　bank。　　The　noise　drew　nearer；　and　in　a
  minute　I　saw　distinctly　through　the　mist；　horses；　carts；　and　forms
  of　men　passing。　　In　one　or　two　cases　the　wheels　appeared　to　be
  within　a　few　inches　of　my　feet。　　I　let　the　train　go　by；　and　then
  cried　out　in　English；　〃Am　I　right　for　Gutter　Vawr？〃
  〃Hey？〃　said　a　voice；　after　a　momentary　interval。
  〃Am　I　right　for　Gutter　Vawr？〃　I　shouted　yet　louder。
  〃Yes　sure！〃　said　a　voice；　probably　the　same。
  Then　instantly　a　much　rougher　voice　cried；　〃Who　the　Devil　are　you？〃
  I　made　no　answer；　but　went　on；　whilst　the　train　continued　its　way
  rumbling　down　the　mountain。　　At　length　I　gained　the　top；　where　the
  road　turned　and　led　down　a　steep　descent　towards　the　south…west。
  It　was　now　quite　night；　and　the　mist　was　of　the　thickest　kind。　　I
  could　just　see　that　there　was　a　frightful　precipice　on　my　left；　so
  I　kept　to　the　right；　hugging　the　side　of　the　hill。　　As　I　descended
  I　heard　every　now　and　then　loud　noises　in　the　vale；　probably
  proceeding　from　stone　quarries。　　I　was　drenched　to　the　skin；　nay；
  through　the　skin；　by　the　mist；　which　I　verily　believe　was　more
  penetrating　than　that　described　by　Ab　Gwilym。　　When　I　had　proceeded
  about　a　mile　I　saw　blazes　down　below；　resembling　those　of　furnaces；
  and　soon　after　came　to　the　foot　of　the　hill。　　It　was　here　pouring
  with　rain；　but　I　did　not　put　up　my　umbrella；　as　it　was　impossible
  for　me　to　be　more　drenched　than　I　was。　　Crossing　a　bridge　over　a
  kind　of　torrent；　I　found　myself　amongst　some　houses。　　I　entered　one
  of　them　from　which　a　blaze　of　light　and　a　roar　of　voices　proceeded；
  and；　on　inquiring　of　an　old　woman　who　confronted　me　in　the　passage；
  I　found　that　I　had　reached　my　much　needed　haven　of　rest；　the　tavern
  of　Gutter　Vawr　in　the　county　of　Glamorgan。
  CHAPTER　XCIX
  Inn　at　Gutter　Vawr　…　The　Hurly…burly　…　Bara　y　Caws　…　Change　of
  Manner　…　Welsh　Mistrust　…　Wonders　of　Russia　…　The　Emperor　…　The
  Grand　Ghost　Story。
  THE　old　woman　who　confronted　me　in　the　passage　of　the　inn　turned
  out　to　be　the　landlady。　　On　learning　that　I　intended　to　pass　the
  night　at　her　house；　she　conducted　me　into　a　small　room　on　the
  right…hand　side　of　the　passage；　which　proved　to　be　the　parlour。　　It
  was　cold　and　comfortless；　for　there　was　no　fire　in　the　grate。　　She
  told　me；　however；　that　one　should　be　lighted；　and　going　out；
  presently　returned　with　a　couple　of　buxom　wenches；　who　I　soon　found
  were　her　daughters。　　The　good　lady　had　little　or　no　English；　the
  girls；　however；　had　plenty；　and　of　a　good　kind　too。　　They　soon
  lighted　a　fire；　and　then　the　mother　inquired　if　I　wished　for　any
  supper。
  〃Certainly；〃　said　I；　〃for　I　have　not　eaten　anything　since　I　left
  Llandovery。　　What　can　I　have？〃
  〃We　have　veal　and　bacon；〃　said　she。
  〃That　will　do；〃　said　I；　〃fry　me　some　veal　and　bacon；　and　I　shan't
  complain。　　But　pray　tell　what　prodigious　noise　is　that　which　I　hear
  on　the　other　side　of　the　passage？〃
  〃It　is　only　the　miners　and　the　carters　in　the　kitchen　making
  merry；〃　said　one　of　the　girls。
  〃Is　there　a　good　fire　there？〃　said　I。
  〃Oh　yes；〃　said　the　girl；　〃we　have　always　a　good　fire　in　the
  kitchen。〃
  〃Well　then；〃　said　I；　〃I　shall　go　there　till　supper　is　ready；　for　I
  am　wet　to　the　skin；　and　this　fire　casts　very　little　heat。〃
  〃You　will　find　them　a　rough　set　in　the　kitchen；〃　said　the　girl。
  〃I　don't　care　if　I　do〃　said　I；　〃when　people　are　rough　I　am　civil；
  and　I　have　always　found　that　civility　beats　roughness　in　the　long
  run。〃　　Then　going　out　I　crossed　the　passage　and　entered　the
  kitchen。
  It　was　nearly　filled　with　rough　unkempt　fellows；　smoking；　drinking；
  whistling；　singing；　shouting　or　jabbering；　some　in　a　standing；　some
  in　a　sitting；　posture。　　My　entrance　seemed　at　once　to　bring
  everything　to　a　dead　stop；　the　smokers　ceased　to　smoke；　the　hand
  that　was　conveying　the　glass　or　the　mug　to　the　mouth　was　arrested
  in　air；　the　hurly…burly　ceased　and　every　eye　was　turned　upon　me
  with　a　strange　inquiring　stare。　　Without　allowing　myself　to　be
  disconcerted　I　advanced　to　the　fire；　spread　out　my　hands　before　it
  for　a　minute；　gave　two　or　three　deep　〃ahs〃　of　comfort；　and　then
  turning　round　said：　　〃Rather　a　damp　night；　gentlemen　…　fire
  cheering　to　one　who　has　come　the　whole　way　from　Llandovery　…　Taking
  a　bit　of　a　walk　in　Wales；　to　see　the　scenery　and　to　observe　the
  manners　and　customs　of　the　inhabitants　…　Fine　country；　gentlemen；
  noble　prospects；　hill　and　dale　…　Fine　people　too　…　open…hearted　and
  generous；　no　wonder！　descendants　of　the　Ancient　Britons　…　Hope　I
  don't　intrude　…　other　room　rather　cold　and　smoking　…　If　I　do；　will
  retire　at　once　…　don't　wish　to　interrupt　any　gentleman　in　their
  avocations　or　deliberations　…　scorn　to　do　anything　ungenteel　or
  calculated　to　give　offence　…　hope　I　know　how　to　behave　myself　…
  ought　to　do　so　…　learnt　grammar　at　the　High　School　at　Edinburgh。〃
  〃Offence；　intrusion！〃　cried　twenty　voices。　　〃God　bless　your　honour！
  no　intrusion　and　no　offence　at　all；　sit　down　…　sit　here　…　won't　you
  drink？〃
  〃Please　to　sit　here；　sir；〃　said　an　old　grimy…looking　man；　getting
  up　from　a　seat　in　the　chimney…corner　…　〃this　is　no　seat　for　me
  whilst　you　are　here；　it　belongs　to　you　…　sit　down　in　it；〃　and
  laying　hold　of　me　he　compelled　me　to　sit　down　in　the　chair　of
  dignity；　whilst　half…a…dozen　hands　pushed　mugs　of　beer　towards　my
  face；　these；　however；　I　declined　to　partake　of　on　the　very
  satisfactory　ground　that　I　had　not　taken　supper；　and　that　it　was　a
  bad　thing　to　drink　before　eating；　more　especially　after　coming　out
  of　a　mist。
  〃Have　you　any　news　to　tell　of　the　war；　sir？〃　said　a　large　tough
  fellow；　who　was　smoking　a　pipe。
  〃The　last　news　that　I　heard　of　the　war；〃　said　I；　〃was　that　the　snow
  was　two　feet　deep　at　Sebastopol。〃
  〃I　heard　three；〃　said　the　man；　〃however；　if　there　be　but　two　it
  must　be