第 123 节
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seemed about five…and…thirty; and was rather good…looking。 She
walked somewhat slowly; which was probably more owing to a large
bundle which she bore in her hand than to her path being up…hill。
〃Good evening;〃 said I; stopping。
〃Good evening; your honour;〃 said she; stopping and brightly
panting。
〃Do you come from far?〃 said I。
〃Not very far; your honour; but quite far enough for a poor feeble
woman。〃
〃Are you Welsh?〃 said I。
〃Och no! your honour; I am Mary Bane from Dunmanway in the kingdom
of Ireland。〃
〃And what are you doing here?〃 said I。
〃Och sure! I am travelling the country with soft goods。〃
〃Are you going far?〃 said I。
〃Merely to the village a little farther up; your honour。〃
〃I am going farther;〃 said I; 〃I am thinking of passing the night
at the 'Pump Saint。'〃
〃Well; then; I would just advise your honour to do no such thing;
but to turn back with me to the village above; where there is an
illigant inn where your honour will be well accommodated。〃
〃Oh; I saw that as I came past;〃 said I; 〃I don't think there is
much accommodation there。〃
〃Oh; your honour is clane mistaken; there is always an illigant
fire and an illigant bed too。〃
〃Is there only one bed?〃 said I。
〃Oh; yes; there are two beds; one for the accommodation of the
people of the house and the other for that of the visitors。〃
〃And do the visitors sleep together then?〃 said I。
〃Oh yes! unless they wish to be unsociable。 Those who are not
disposed to be sociable sleeps in the chimney…corners。〃
〃Ah;〃 said I; 〃I see it is a very agreeable inn; however; I shall
go on to the 'Pump Saint。'〃
〃I am sorry for it; your honour; for your honour's sake; your
honour won't be half so illigantly served at the 'Pump Saint' as
there above。〃
〃Of what religion are you?〃 said I。
〃Oh; I'm a Catholic; just like your honour; for if I am not clane
mistaken your honour is an Irishman。〃
〃Who is your spiritual director?〃 said I。
〃Why; then; it is just Father Toban; your honour; whom of course
your honour knows。〃
〃Oh yes!〃 said I; 〃when you next see him present my respects to
him。〃
〃What name shall I mention; your honour?〃
〃Shorsha Borroo;〃 said I。
〃Oh; then I was right in taking your honour for an Irishman。 None
but a raal Paddy bears that name。 A credit to your honour is your
name; for it is a famous name; (17) and a credit to your name is
your honour; for it is a neat man without a bend you are。 God
bless your honour and good night! and may you find dacent quarters
in the 'Pump Saint。'〃
Leaving Mary Bane I proceeded on my way。 The evening was rather
fine but twilight was coming rapidly on。 I reached the bottom of
the valley and soon overtook a young man dressed something like a
groom。 We entered into conversation。 He spoke Welsh and a little
English。 His Welsh I had great difficulty in understanding; as it
was widely different from that which I had been accustomed to。 He
asked me where I was going to; I replied to the 〃Pump Saint;〃 and
then enquired if he was in service。
〃I am;〃 said he。
〃With whom do you live?〃 said I。
〃With Mr Johnes of Dol Cothi;〃 he answered。
Struck by the word Cothi; I asked if Dol Cothi was ever called Glyn
Cothi。
〃Oh yes;〃 said he; 〃frequently。〃
〃How odd;〃 thought I to myself; 〃that I should have stumbled all of
a sudden upon the country of my old friend Lewis Glyn Cothi; the
greatest poet after Ab Gwilym of all Wales!〃
〃Is Cothi a river?〃 said I to my companion。
〃It is;〃 said he。
Presently we came to a bridge over a small river。
〃Is this river the Cothi?〃 said I。
〃No;〃 said he; 〃this is the Twrch; the bridge is called Pont y
Twrch。〃
〃The bridge of Twrch or the hog;〃 said I to myself; 〃there is a
bridge of the same name in the Scottish Highlands; not far from the
pass of the Trossachs。 I wonder whether it has its name from the
same cause as this; namely; from passing over a river called the
Twrch or Torck; which word in Gaelic signifies boar or hog even as
it does in Welsh。〃 It had now become nearly dark。 After
proceeding some way farther I asked the groom if we were far from
the inn of the 〃Pump Saint。〃
〃Close by;〃 said he; and presently pointing to a large building on
the right…hand side he said: 〃This is the inn of the 'Pump Saint;'
sir。 Nos Da'chi!〃
CHAPTER XCVI
〃Pump Saint〃 … Pleasant Residence … The Watery Coom … Philological
Fact … Evening Service … Meditation。
I ENTERED the inn of the 〃Pump Saint。〃 It was a comfortable old…
fashioned place; with a very large kitchen and a rather small
parlour。 The people were kind and attentive; and soon set before
me in the parlour a homely but savoury supper; and a foaming
tankard of ale。 After supper I went into the kitchen; and sitting
down with the good folks in an immense chimney…corner; listened to
them talking in their Carmarthenshire dialect till it was time to
go to rest; when I was conducted to a large chamber where I found
an excellent and clean bed awaiting me; in which I enjoyed a
refreshing sleep; occasionally visited by dreams in which some of
the scenes of the preceding day again appeared before me; but in an
indistinct and misty manner。
Awaking in the very depth of the night I thought I heard the
murmuring of a river; I listened and soon found that I had not been
deceived。 〃I wonder whether that river is the Cothi;〃 said I; 〃the
stream of the immortal Lewis。 I will suppose that it is〃 … and
rendered quite happy by the idea; I soon fell asleep again。
I arose about eight and went out to look about me。 The village
consists of little more than half…a…dozen houses。 The name 〃Pump
Saint〃 signifies 〃Five Saints。〃 Why the place is called so I know
not。 Perhaps the name originally belonged to some chapel which
stood either where the village now stands or in the neighbourhood。
The inn is a good specimen of an ancient Welsh hostelry。 Its gable
is to the road and its front to a little space on one side of the
way。 At a little distance up the road is a blacksmith's shop。 The
country around is interesting: on the north…west is a fine wooded
hill … to the south a valley through which flows the Cothi; a fair
river; the one whose murmur had come so pleasingly upon my ear in
the depth of night。
After breakfast I departed for Llandovery。 Presently I came to a
lodge on the left…hand beside an ornamental gate at the bottom of
an avenue leading seemingly to a gentleman's seat。 On inquiring of
a woman; who sat at the door of the lodge; to whom the grounds
belonged; she said to Mr Johnes; and that if I pleased I was
welcome to see them。 I went in and advanced along the avenue;
which consisted of very noble oaks; on the right was a vale in
which a beautiful brook was running north and south。 Beyond the
vale to the east were fine wooded hills。 I thought I had never
seen a more pleasing locality; though I saw it to great
disadvantage; the day being dull; and the season the latter fall。
Presently; on the avenue making a slight turn; I saw the house; a
plain but comfortable gentleman's seat with wings。 It looked to
the south down the dale。 〃With what satisfaction I could live in
that house;〃 said I to myself; 〃if backed by a couple of thousands
a…year。 With what gravity could I sign a warrant in its library;
and with what dreamy comfort translate an ode of Lewis Glyn Cothi;
my tankard of rich ale beside me。 I wonder whether the proprietor
is fond of the old bard and keeps good ale。 Were I an Irishman
instead of a Norfolk man I would go in and ask him。〃
Returning to the road I proceeded on my journey。 I passed over
Pont y Rhanedd or the bridge of the Rhanedd; a small river flowing
through a dale; then by Clas Hywel; a lofty mountain which appeared
to have three heads。 After walking for some miles I came to where
the road divided into two。 By a sign…post I saw that both led to
Llandovery; one by Porth y Rhyd and the other by Llanwrda。 The
distance by the first was six miles and a half; by the latter eight
and a half。 Feeling quite the reverse of tired I chose the longest
road; namely the one by Llanwrda; along which I sped at a great
rate。
In a little time I found myself in the heart of a romantic winding
dell; overhung with trees of various kinds; which a tall man whom I
met told me was called Cwm Dwr Llanwrda; or the Watery Coom of
Llanwrda; and well might it be called the Watery Coom; for there
were several bridges in it; two within a few hundred yards of each
other。 The same man told me that the war was going on very badly;
that our soldiers were suffering much; and that the snow was two
feet deep at Sebastopol。
Passing through Llanwrda; a pretty village with a singular…looking
church; close to which stood an enormous yew; I entered a valley
which I learned was the valley of the Towey。 I directed my course
to the north; having the river on my right; which runs towards the
south in a spacious bed; which; however; except in times of flood;
it scarcely half fills。 Beautiful hills were on other side; partly
cultivated;