was　exceedingly　beautiful。　　Below　me　was　a　bright　green　valley；　at
  the　bottom　of　which　the　Ystwyth　ran　brawling；　now　hid　amongst
  groves；　now　showing　a　long　stretch　of　water。　　Beyond　the　river　to
  the　east　was　a　noble　mountain；　richly　wooded。　　The　Ystwyth；　after　a
  circuitous　course；　joins　the　Rheidol　near　the　strand　of　the　Irish
  Channel；　which　the　united　rivers　enter　at　a　place　called　Aber
  Ystwyth；　where　stands　a　lovely　town　of　the　same　name；　which　sprang
  up　under　the　protection　of　a　baronial　castle；　still　proud　and
  commanding　even　in　its　ruins；　built　by　Strongbow；　the　conqueror　of
  the　great　western　isle。　　Near　the　lower　part　of　the　valley　the　road
  tended　to　the　south；　up　and　down　through　woods　and　bowers；　the
  scenery　still　ever　increasing　in　beauty。　　At　length；　after　passing
  through　a　gate　and　turning　round　a　sharp　corner；　I　suddenly　beheld
  Hafod　on　my　right　hand；　to　the　west　at　a　little　distance　above　me；
  on　a　rising　ground；　with　a　noble　range　of　mountains　behind　it。
  A　truly　fairy　place　it　looked；　beautiful　but　fantastic；　in　the
  building　of　which　three　styles　of　architecture　seemed　to　have　been
  employed。　　At　the　southern　end　was　a　Gothic　tower；　at　the　northern
  an　Indian　pagoda；　the　middle　part　had　much　the　appearance　of　a
  Grecian　villa。　　The　walls　were　of　resplendent　whiteness；　and　the
  windows；　which　were　numerous；　shone　with　beautiful　gilding。　　Such
  was　modern　Hafod；　a　strange　contrast；　no　doubt；　to　the　hunting
  lodge　of　old。
  After　gazing　at　this　house　of　eccentric　taste　for　about　a　quarter
  of　an　hour；　sometimes　with　admiration；　sometimes　with　a　strong
  disposition　to　laugh；　I　followed　the　road；　which　led　past　the　house
  in　nearly　a　southerly　direction。　　Presently　the　valley　became　more
  narrow；　and　continued　narrowing　till　there　was　little　more　room
  than　was　required　for　the　road　and　the　river；　which　ran　deep　below
  it　on　the　left…hand　side。　　Presently　I　came　to　a　gate；　the　boundary
  in　the　direction　in　which　I　was　going　of　the　Hafod　domain。
  Here；　when　about　to　leave　Hafod；　I　shall　devote　a　few　lines　to　a
  remarkable　man　whose　name　should　be　ever　associated　with　the　place。
  Edward　Lhuyd　was　born　in　the　vicinity　of　Hafod　about　the　period　of
  the　Restoration。　　His　father　was　a　clergyman；　who　after　giving　him
  an　excellent　education　at　home　sent　him　to　Oxford；　at　which　seat　of
  learning　he　obtained　an　honourable　degree；　officiated　for　several
  years　as　tutor；　and　was　eventually　made　custodiary　of　the　Ashmolean
  Museum。　　From　his　early　youth　he　devoted　himself　with　indefatigable
  zeal　to　the　acquisition　of　learning。　　He　was　fond　of　natural
  history　and　British　antiquities；　but　his　favourite　pursuit；　and
  that　in　which　he　principally　distinguished　himself；　was　the　study
  of　the　Celtic　dialects；　and　it　is　but　doing　justice　to　his　memory
  to　say；　that　he　was　not　only　the　best　Celtic　scholar　of　his　time；
  but　that　no　one　has　arisen　since　worthy　to　be　considered　his　equal
  in　Celtic　erudition。　　Partly　at　the　expense　of　the　university；
  partly　at　that　of　various　powerful　individuals　who　patronized　him；
  he　travelled　through　Ireland；　the　Western　Highlands；　Wales；
  Cornwall　and　Armorica；　for　the　purpose　of　collecting　Celtic
  manuscripts。　　He　was　particularly　successful　in　Ireland　and　Wales。
  Several　of　the　most　precious　Irish　manuscripts　in　Oxford；　and　also
  in　the　Chandos　Library；　were　of　Lhuyd's　collection；　and　to　him　the
  old　hall　at　Hafod　was　chiefly　indebted　for　its　treasures　of　ancient
  British　literature。　　Shortly　after　returning　to　Oxford　from　his
  Celtic　wanderings　he　sat　down　to　the　composition　of　a　grand　work　in
  three　parts；　under　the　title　of　Archaeologia　Britannica；　which　he
  had　long　projected。　　The　first　was　to　be　devoted　to　the　Celtic
  dialects；　the　second　to　British　Antiquities；　and　the　third　to　the
  natural　history　of　the　British　Isles。　　He　only　lived　to　complete
  the　first　part。　　It　contains　various　Celtic　grammars　and
  vocabularies；　to　each　of　which　there　is　a　preface　written　by　Lhuyd
  in　the　particular　dialect　to　which　the　vocabulary　or　grammar　is
  devoted。　　Of　all　these　prefaces　the　one　to　the　Irish　is　the　most
  curious　and　remarkable。　　The　first　part　of　the　Archaeologia　was
  published　at　Oxford　in　1707；　two　years　before　the　death　of　the
  author。　　Of　his　correspondence；　which　was　very　extensive；　several
  letters　have　been　published；　all　of　them　relating　to　philology；
  antiquities；　and　natural　history。
  CHAPTER　XC
  An　Adventure　…　Spytty　Ystwyth　…　Wormwood。
  SHORTLY　after　leaving　the　grounds　of　Hafod　I　came　to　a　bridge　over
  the　Ystwyth。　　I　crossed　it；　and　was　advancing　along　the　road　which
  led　apparently　to　the　south…east；　when　I　came　to　a　company　of
  people　who　seemed　to　be　loitering　about。　　It　consisted　entirely　of
  young　men　and　women；　the　former　with　crimson　favours；　the　latter　in
  the　garb　of　old　Wales；　blue　tunics　and　sharp　crowned　hats。　　Going
  up　to　one　of　the　young　women；　I　said；　〃Petti　yw？　what's　the
  matter！〃
  〃Priodas　（a　marriage）；〃　she　replied；　after　looking　at　me
  attentively。　　I　then　asked　her　the　name　of　the　bridge；　whereupon
  she　gave　a　broad　grin；　and　after　some；　little　time　replied：　　〃Pont
  y　Groes　（the　bridge　of　the　cross）。〃　　I　was　about　to　ask　her　some
  other　question　when　she　turned　away　with　a　loud　chuckle；　and　said
  something　to　another　wench　near　her；　who；　grinning　yet　more
  uncouthly；　said　something　to　a　third；　who　grinned　too；　and　lifting
  up　her　hands　and　spreading　her　fingers　wide；　said：　　〃Dyn　oddi　dir　y
  Gogledd　…　a　man　from　the　north　country；　hee；　hee！〃　　Forthwith　there
  was　a　general　shout；　the　wenches　crying：　　〃A　man　from　the　north
  country；　hee；　hee！〃　and　the　fellows　crying：　　〃A　man　from　the　north
  country；　hoo；　hoo！〃
  〃Is　this　the　way　you　treat　strangers　in　the　south？〃　said　I。　　But　I
  had　scarcely　uttered　the　words　when　with　redoubled　shouts　the
  company　exclaimed：　　〃There's　Cumraeg！　there's　pretty　Cumraeg。　　Go
  back；　David；　to　shire　Fon！　　That　Cumraeg　won't　pass　here。〃
  Finding　they　disliked　my　Welsh　I　had　recourse　to　my　own　language。
  〃Really；〃　said　I　in　English；　〃such　conduct　is　unaccountable。　　What
  do　you　mean？〃　　But　this　only　made　matters　worse；　for　the　shouts
  grew　louder　still；　and　every　one　cried：　　〃There's　pretty　English！
  Well；　if　I　couldn't　speak　better　English　than　that　I'd　never　speak
  English　at　all。　　No；　David；　if　you　must　speak　at　all；　stick　to
  Cumraeg。〃　　Then　forthwith；　all　the　company　set　themselves　in
  violent　motion；　the　women　rushing　up　to　me　with　their　palms　and
  fingers　spread　out　in　my　face；　without　touching　me；　however；　as
  they　wheeled　round　me　at　about　a　yard's　distance；　crying：　　〃A　man
  from　the　north　country；　hee；　hee！〃　and　the　fellows　acting　just　in
  the　same　way；　rushing　up　with　their　hands　spread　out；　and　then
  wheeling　round　me　with　cries　of　〃A　man　from　the　north　country；　hoo；
  hoo！〃　　I　was　so　enraged　that　I　made　for　a　heap　of　stones　by　the
  road…side；　intending　to　take　some　up　and　fling　them　at　the　company。
  Reflecting；　however；　that　I　had　but　one　pair　of　hands　and　the
  company　at　least　forty；　and　that　by　such　an　attempt　at　revenge　I
  should　only　make　myself　ridiculous；　I　gave　up　my　intention；　and
  continued　my　journey　at　a　rapid　pace；　pursued　for　a　long　way　by
  〃hee；　hee；〃　and　〃hoo；　hoo；〃　and：　　〃Go　back；　David；　to　your　goats　in
  Anglesey；　you　are　not　wanted　here。〃
  I　began　to　descend　a　hill　forming　the　eastern　side　of　an　immense
  valley；　at　the　bottom　of　which　rolled　the　river。　　Beyond　the　valley
  to　the　west　was　an　enormous　hill；　on　the　top　of　which　was　a　most
  singular…looking　crag；　seemingly　leaning　in　the　direction　of　the
  south。　　On　the　right…hand　side　of　the　road　were　immense　works　of
  some　kind　in　full　play　and　activity；　for　engines　were　clanging　and
  puffs　of　smoke　were　ascending　from　tall　chimneys。　　On　inquiring　of
  a　boy　the　name　of　the　works　I　was　told　that　they　were　called　the
  works　of　Level　Vawr；　or　the　Great　Level；　a　mining　establishment；
  but　when　I　asked　him　the　name　of　the　hill　with　the　singular　peak；
  on　the　other　side　of　the　valley；　he　shook　his　head　and　said　he　did
  not　know。　　Near　the　top　of　the　hill　I　came　to　a　village　consisting
  of　a　few　cottages　and　a　shabby…looking　church。　　A　rivulet
  descending　from　some　crags　to　the　east　crosses　the　road；　which
  leads　through　the　place；　and　tumbling　down　the　valley；　joins　the
  Ystwyth　at　the　bottom。　　Seeing　a　woman　standing　at　the　door；　I
  inquired　the　name　of　the　village。
  〃Spytty　Ystwyth；〃　she　replied；　but　she；　no　more　than　the　boy　down
  below；　could　tell　me　the　name　of　the　strange…looking　hill　across
  the　valley。　　This　second　Spytty　or　monastic　hospital；　which　I　had
  come　to；　looked　in　every　respect　an　inferior　place　to　the　first。
  Whatever　its　former　state　might　have　been；　nothing　but　dirt　and
  wretchedness　were　now　visible。　　Having　reached　the　top　of　the　hill
  I　entered　upon　a　wild　moory　region。　　Presently　I　crossed　a　little
  bridge　over　a　rivulet；　and　seeing　a　small　house　on　the　shutter　of
  which　was　painted　〃cwrw；〃　I　went　in；　sat　down　on　an　old　chair；
  which　I　found　vacant；　and　said　in　English　to　an　old　woman　who　sat
  knitting　by　the　window：　　〃Bring　me　a　pint　of　ale！〃
  〃Dim　Saesneg！〃　said　the　o