第 113 节
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〃This does not seem to be a country of much society;〃 said I to my
guide。
〃It is not; sir。 The nearest house is the inn we came from; which
is now three miles behind us。 Straight before you there is not one
for at least ten; and on either side it is an anialwch to a vast
distance。 Plunlummon is not a sociable country; sir; nothing to be
found in it; but here and there a few sheep or a shepherd。〃
〃Now;〃 said I; descending from the carn; 〃we will proceed to the
sources of the rivers。〃
〃The ffynnon of the Rheidol is not far off;〃 said the guide; 〃it is
just below the hill。〃
We descended the western side of the hill for some way; at length;
coming to a very craggy and precipitous place; my guide stopped;
and pointing with his finger into the valley below; said:…
〃There; sir; if you look down you can see the source of the
Rheidol。〃
I looked down; and saw far below what appeared to be part of a
small sheet of water。
〃And that is the source of the Rheidol?〃 said I。
〃Yes; sir;〃 said my guide; 〃that is the ffynnon of the Rheidol。〃
〃Well;〃 said I; 〃is there no getting to it?〃
〃Oh yes! but the path; sir; as you see; is rather steep and
dangerous。〃
〃Never mind;〃 said I。 〃Let us try it。〃
〃Isn't seeing the fountain sufficient for you; sir?〃
〃By no means;〃 said I。 〃It is not only necessary for me to see the
sources of the rivers; but to drink of them; in order that in after
times I may be able to harangue about them with a tone of
confidence and authority。〃
〃Then follow me; sir; but please to take care; for this path is
more fit for sheep or shepherds than gentlefolk。〃
And a truly bad path I found it; so bad indeed that before I had
descended twenty yards I almost repented having ventured。 I had a
capital guide; however; who went before and told me where to plant
my steps。 There was one particularly bad part; being little better
than a sheer precipice; but even here I got down in safety with the
assistance of my guide; and a minute afterwards found myself at the
source of the Rheidol。
The source of the Rheidol is a small beautiful lake; about a
quarter of a mile in length。 It is overhung on the east and north
by frightful crags; from which it is fed by a number of small
rills。 The water is of the deepest blue; and of very considerable
depth。 The banks; except to the north and east; slope gently down;
and are clad with soft and beautiful moss。 The river; of which it
is the head; emerges at the south…western side; and brawls away in
the shape of a considerable brook; amidst moss; and rushes down a
wild glen tending to the south。 To the west the prospect is
bounded; at a slight distance; by high; swelling ground。 If few
rivers have a more wild and wondrous channel than the Rheidol;
fewer still have a more beautiful and romantic source。
After kneeling down and drinking freely of the lake I said:
〃Now; where are we to go to next?〃
〃The nearest ffynnon to that of the Rheidol; sir; is the ffynnon of
the Severn。〃
〃Very well;〃 said I; 〃let us now go and see the ffynnon of the
Severn!〃
I followed my guide over a hill to the north…west into a valley; at
the farther end of which I saw a brook streaming apparently to the
south; where was an outlet。
〃That brook;〃 said the guide; 〃is the young Severn。〃 The brook
came from round the side of a very lofty rock; singularly
variegated; black and white; the northern summit presenting
something of the appearance of the head of a horse。 Passing round
this crag we came to a fountain surrounded with rushes; out of
which the brook; now exceedingly small; came murmuring。
〃The crag above;〃 said my guide; 〃is called Crag y Cefyl; or the
Rock of the Horse; and this spring at its foot is generally called
the ffynnon of the Hafren。 However; drink not of it; master; for
the ffynnon of the Hafren is higher up the nant。 Follow me; and I
will presently show you the real ffynnon of the Hafren。〃
I followed him up a narrow and very steep dingle。 Presently we
came to some beautiful little pools of water in the turf; which was
here remarkably green。
〃These are very pretty pools; an't they; master?〃 said my
companion。 〃Now; if I was a false guide I might bid you stoop and
drink; saying that these were the sources of the Severn; but I am a
true cyfarwydd; and therefore tell you not to drink; for these
pools are not the sources of the Hafren; no more than the spring
below。 The ffynnon of the Severn is higher up the nant。 Don't
fret; however; but follow me; and we shall be there in a minute。〃
So I did as he bade me; following him without fretting higher up
the nant。 Just at the top he halted and said: 〃Now; master; I
have conducted you to the source of the Severn。 I have considered
the matter deeply; and have come to the conclusion that here; and
here only; is the true source。 Therefore stoop down and drink; in
full confidence that you are taking possession of the Holy Severn。〃
The source of the Severn is a little pool of water some twenty
inches long; six wide; and about three deep。 It is covered at the
bottom with small stones; from between which the water gushes up。
It is on the left…hand side of the nant; as you ascend; close by
the very top。 An unsightly heap of black turf…earth stands right
above it to the north。 Turf…heaps; both large and small; are in
abundance in the vicinity。
After taking possession of the Severn by drinking at its source;
rather a shabby source for so noble a stream; I said; 〃Now let us
go to the fountain of the Wye。〃
〃A quarter of an hour will take us to it; your honour;〃 said the
guide; leading the way。
The source of the Wye; which is a little pool; not much larger than
that which constitutes the fountain of the Severn; stands near the
top of a grassy hill which forms part of the Great Plynlimmon。 The
stream after leaving its source runs down the hill towards the
east; and then takes a turn to the south。 The Mountains of the
Severn and the Wye are in close proximity to each other。 That of
the Rheidol stands somewhat apart front both; as if; proud of its
own beauty; it disdained the other two for their homeliness。 All
three are contained within the compass of a mile。
〃And now; I suppose; sir; that our work is done; and we may go back
to where we came from;〃 said my guide; as I stood on the grassy
hill after drinking copiously of the fountain of the Wye。
〃We may;〃 said I; 〃but before we do I must repeat some lines made
by a man who visited these sources; and experienced the hospitality
of a chieftain in this neighbourhood four hundred years ago。〃 Then
taking off my hat; I lifted up my voice and sang:…
〃From high Plynlimmon's shaggy side
Three streams in three directions glide;
To thousands at their mouths who tarry
Honey; gold and mead they carry。
Flow also from Plynlimmon high
Three streams of generosity;
The first; a noble stream indeed;
Like rills of Mona runs with mead;
The second bears from vineyards thick
Wine to the feeble and the sick;
The third; till time shall be no more;
Mingled with gold shall silver pour。〃
〃Nice pennillion; sir; I daresay;〃 said my guide; 〃provided a
person could understand them。 What's meant by all this mead; wine;
gold; and silver?〃
〃Why;〃 said I; 〃the bard meant to say that Plynlimmon; by means of
its three channels; sends blessings and wealth in three different
directions to distant places; and that the person whom he came to
visit; and who lived on Plynlimmon; distributed his bounty in three
different ways; giving mead to thousands at his banquets; wine from
the vineyards of Gascony to the sick and feeble of the
neighbourhood; and gold and silver to those who were willing to be
tipped; amongst whom no doubt was himself; as poets have never been
above receiving a present。〃
〃Nor above asking for one; your honour; there's a prydydd in this
neighbourhood who will never lose a shilling for want of asking for
it。 Now; sir; have the kindness to tell me the name of the man who
made those pennillion。〃
〃Lewis Glyn Cothi;〃 said I; 〃at least; it was he who made the
pennillion from which those verses are translated。〃
〃And what was the name of the gentleman whom he came to visit?〃
〃His name;〃 said I; 〃was Dafydd ab Thomas Vychan。〃
〃And where did he live?〃
〃Why; I believe; he lived at the castle; which you told me once
stood on the spot which you pointed out as we came up。 At any
rate; he lived somewhere upon Plynlimmon。〃
〃I wish there was some rich gentleman at present living on
Plynlimmon;〃 said my guide; 〃one of that sort is much wanted。〃
〃You can't have everything at the same time;〃 said I; 〃formerly you
had a chieftain who gave away wine and mead; and occasionally a bit
of gold or silver; but then no travellers and tourists came to see
the wonders of the hills; for at that time nobody cared anything
about hills; at present you have no chieftain; but plenty of
visitors; who come to see the hills and the sources; and scatter
plenty of gold about the neighbourhood。〃
We now bent our steps homeward; bearing slight