第 113 节
作者:随便看看      更新:2021-02-25 00:47      字数:9322
  〃This does not seem to be a country of much society;〃 said I to my
  guide。
  〃It is not; sir。  The nearest house is the inn we came from; which
  is now three miles behind us。  Straight before you there is not one
  for at least ten; and on either side it is an anialwch to a vast
  distance。  Plunlummon is not a sociable country; sir; nothing to be
  found in it; but here and there a few sheep or a shepherd。〃
  〃Now;〃 said I; descending from the carn; 〃we will proceed to the
  sources of the rivers。〃
  〃The ffynnon of the Rheidol is not far off;〃 said the guide; 〃it is
  just below the hill。〃
  We descended the western side of the hill for some way; at length;
  coming to a very craggy and precipitous place; my guide stopped;
  and pointing with his finger into the valley below; said:…
  〃There; sir; if you look down you can see the source of the
  Rheidol。〃
  I looked down; and saw far below what appeared to be part of a
  small sheet of water。
  〃And that is the source of the Rheidol?〃 said I。
  〃Yes; sir;〃 said my guide; 〃that is the ffynnon of the Rheidol。〃
  〃Well;〃 said I; 〃is there no getting to it?〃
  〃Oh yes! but the path; sir; as you see; is rather steep and
  dangerous。〃
  〃Never mind;〃 said I。  〃Let us try it。〃
  〃Isn't seeing the fountain sufficient for you; sir?〃
  〃By no means;〃 said I。  〃It is not only necessary for me to see the
  sources of the rivers; but to drink of them; in order that in after
  times I may be able to harangue about them with a tone of
  confidence and authority。〃
  〃Then follow me; sir; but please to take care; for this path is
  more fit for sheep or shepherds than gentlefolk。〃
  And a truly bad path I found it; so bad indeed that before I had
  descended twenty yards I almost repented having ventured。  I had a
  capital guide; however; who went before and told me where to plant
  my steps。  There was one particularly bad part; being little better
  than a sheer precipice; but even here I got down in safety with the
  assistance of my guide; and a minute afterwards found myself at the
  source of the Rheidol。
  The source of the Rheidol is a small beautiful lake; about a
  quarter of a mile in length。  It is overhung on the east and north
  by frightful crags; from which it is fed by a number of small
  rills。  The water is of the deepest blue; and of very considerable
  depth。  The banks; except to the north and east; slope gently down;
  and are clad with soft and beautiful moss。  The river; of which it
  is the head; emerges at the south…western side; and brawls away in
  the shape of a considerable brook; amidst moss; and rushes down a
  wild glen tending to the south。  To the west the prospect is
  bounded; at a slight distance; by high; swelling ground。  If few
  rivers have a more wild and wondrous channel than the Rheidol;
  fewer still have a more beautiful and romantic source。
  After kneeling down and drinking freely of the lake I said:
  〃Now; where are we to go to next?〃
  〃The nearest ffynnon to that of the Rheidol; sir; is the ffynnon of
  the Severn。〃
  〃Very well;〃 said I; 〃let us now go and see the ffynnon of the
  Severn!〃
  I followed my guide over a hill to the north…west into a valley; at
  the farther end of which I saw a brook streaming apparently to the
  south; where was an outlet。
  〃That brook;〃 said the guide; 〃is the young Severn。〃  The brook
  came from round the side of a very lofty rock; singularly
  variegated; black and white; the northern summit presenting
  something of the appearance of the head of a horse。  Passing round
  this crag we came to a fountain surrounded with rushes; out of
  which the brook; now exceedingly small; came murmuring。
  〃The crag above;〃 said my guide; 〃is called Crag y Cefyl; or the
  Rock of the Horse; and this spring at its foot is generally called
  the ffynnon of the Hafren。  However; drink not of it; master; for
  the ffynnon of the Hafren is higher up the nant。  Follow me; and I
  will presently show you the real ffynnon of the Hafren。〃
  I followed him up a narrow and very steep dingle。  Presently we
  came to some beautiful little pools of water in the turf; which was
  here remarkably green。
  〃These are very pretty pools; an't they; master?〃 said my
  companion。  〃Now; if I was a false guide I might bid you stoop and
  drink; saying that these were the sources of the Severn; but I am a
  true cyfarwydd; and therefore tell you not to drink; for these
  pools are not the sources of the Hafren; no more than the spring
  below。  The ffynnon of the Severn is higher up the nant。  Don't
  fret; however; but follow me; and we shall be there in a minute。〃
  So I did as he bade me; following him without fretting higher up
  the nant。  Just at the top he halted and said:  〃Now; master; I
  have conducted you to the source of the Severn。  I have considered
  the matter deeply; and have come to the conclusion that here; and
  here only; is the true source。  Therefore stoop down and drink; in
  full confidence that you are taking possession of the Holy Severn。〃
  The source of the Severn is a little pool of water some twenty
  inches long; six wide; and about three deep。  It is covered at the
  bottom with small stones; from between which the water gushes up。
  It is on the left…hand side of the nant; as you ascend; close by
  the very top。  An unsightly heap of black turf…earth stands right
  above it to the north。  Turf…heaps; both large and small; are in
  abundance in the vicinity。
  After taking possession of the Severn by drinking at its source;
  rather a shabby source for so noble a stream; I said; 〃Now let us
  go to the fountain of the Wye。〃
  〃A quarter of an hour will take us to it; your honour;〃 said the
  guide; leading the way。
  The source of the Wye; which is a little pool; not much larger than
  that which constitutes the fountain of the Severn; stands near the
  top of a grassy hill which forms part of the Great Plynlimmon。  The
  stream after leaving its source runs down the hill towards the
  east; and then takes a turn to the south。  The Mountains of the
  Severn and the Wye are in close proximity to each other。  That of
  the Rheidol stands somewhat apart front both; as if; proud of its
  own beauty; it disdained the other two for their homeliness。  All
  three are contained within the compass of a mile。
  〃And now; I suppose; sir; that our work is done; and we may go back
  to where we came from;〃 said my guide; as I stood on the grassy
  hill after drinking copiously of the fountain of the Wye。
  〃We may;〃 said I; 〃but before we do I must repeat some lines made
  by a man who visited these sources; and experienced the hospitality
  of a chieftain in this neighbourhood four hundred years ago。〃  Then
  taking off my hat; I lifted up my voice and sang:…
  〃From high Plynlimmon's shaggy side
  Three streams in three directions glide;
  To thousands at their mouths who tarry
  Honey; gold and mead they carry。
  Flow also from Plynlimmon high
  Three streams of generosity;
  The first; a noble stream indeed;
  Like rills of Mona runs with mead;
  The second bears from vineyards thick
  Wine to the feeble and the sick;
  The third; till time shall be no more;
  Mingled with gold shall silver pour。〃
  〃Nice pennillion; sir; I daresay;〃 said my guide; 〃provided a
  person could understand them。  What's meant by all this mead; wine;
  gold; and silver?〃
  〃Why;〃 said I; 〃the bard meant to say that Plynlimmon; by means of
  its three channels; sends blessings and wealth in three different
  directions to distant places; and that the person whom he came to
  visit; and who lived on Plynlimmon; distributed his bounty in three
  different ways; giving mead to thousands at his banquets; wine from
  the vineyards of Gascony to the sick and feeble of the
  neighbourhood; and gold and silver to those who were willing to be
  tipped; amongst whom no doubt was himself; as poets have never been
  above receiving a present。〃
  〃Nor above asking for one; your honour; there's a prydydd in this
  neighbourhood who will never lose a shilling for want of asking for
  it。  Now; sir; have the kindness to tell me the name of the man who
  made those pennillion。〃
  〃Lewis Glyn Cothi;〃 said I; 〃at least; it was he who made the
  pennillion from which those verses are translated。〃
  〃And what was the name of the gentleman whom he came to visit?〃
  〃His name;〃 said I; 〃was Dafydd ab Thomas Vychan。〃
  〃And where did he live?〃
  〃Why; I believe; he lived at the castle; which you told me once
  stood on the spot which you pointed out as we came up。  At any
  rate; he lived somewhere upon Plynlimmon。〃
  〃I wish there was some rich gentleman at present living on
  Plynlimmon;〃 said my guide; 〃one of that sort is much wanted。〃
  〃You can't have everything at the same time;〃 said I; 〃formerly you
  had a chieftain who gave away wine and mead; and occasionally a bit
  of gold or silver; but then no travellers and tourists came to see
  the wonders of the hills; for at that time nobody cared anything
  about hills; at present you have no chieftain; but plenty of
  visitors; who come to see the hills and the sources; and scatter
  plenty of gold about the neighbourhood。〃
  We now bent our steps homeward; bearing slight