第 95 节
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broken by a footstep at a distance in the street。 At length;
finding myself yawning; I determined to go to bed。 The freckled
maid as she lighted me to my room inquired how I liked the sermon。
〃Very much;〃 said I。 〃Ah;〃 said she; 〃did I not tell you that Mr
Pugh was a capital preacher?〃 She then asked me how I liked the
singing of the gals who sat in the next pew to mine。 I told her
that I liked it exceedingly。 〃Ah;〃 said she; 〃them gals have the
best voices in Bala。 They were once Methody gals; and sang in the
chapels; but were converted; and are now as good Church as myself。
Them gals have been the cause of a great many convarsions; for all
the young fellows of their acquaintance amongst the Methodists … 〃
〃Follow them to church;〃 said I; 〃and in time become converted。
That's a thing of course。 If the Church gets the girls she is
quite sure of the fellows。〃
CHAPTER LXXIV
Proceed on Journey … The Lad and Dog … Old Bala … The Pass …
Extensive View … The Two Men … The Tap Nyth … The Meeting of the
Waters … The Wild Valley … Dinas Mawddwy。
THE Monday morning was gloomy and misty; but it did not rain; a
circumstance which gave me no little pleasure; as I intended to
continue my journey without delay。 After breakfast I bade farewell
to my kind host; and also to the freckled maid; and departed; my
satchel o'er my shoulder and my umbrella in my hand。
I had consulted the landlord on the previous day as to where I had
best make my next halt; and had been advised by him to stop at
Mallwyd。 He said that if I felt tired I could put up at Dinas
Mawddwy; about two miles on this side of Mallwyd; but that if I
were not he would advise me to go on; as I should find very poor
accommodation at Dinas。 On my inquiring as to the nature of the
road; he told me that the first part of it was tolerably good;
lying along the eastern side of the lake; but that the greater part
of it was very rough; over hills and mountains; belonging to the
great chain of Arran; which constituted upon the whole the wildest
part of all Wales。
Passing by the northern end of the lake I turned to the south; and
proceeded along a road a little way above the side of the lake。
The day had now to a certain extent cleared up; and the lake was
occasionally gilded by beams of bright sunshine。 After walking a
little way I overtook a lad dressed in a white greatcoat and
attended by a tolerably large black dog。 I addressed him in
English; but finding that he did not understand me I began to talk
to him in Welsh。
〃That's a fine dog;〃 said I。
LAD。 … Very fine; sir; and a good dog; though young he has been
known to kill rats。
MYSELF。 … What is his name?
LAD。 … His name is Toby; sir。
MYSELF。 … And what is your name?
LAD。 … John Jones; sir。
MYSELF。 … And what is your father's?
LAD。 … Waladr Jones; sir。
MYSELF。 … Is Waladr the same as Cadwaladr?
LAD。 … In truth; sir; it is。
MYSELF。 … That is a fine name。
LAD。 … It is; sir; I have heard my father say that it was the name
of a king。
MYSELF。 … What is your father?
LAD。 … A farmer; sir。
MYSELF。 … Does he farm his own land?
LAD。 … He does not; sir; he is tenant to Mr Price of Hiwlas。
MYSELF。 … Do you live far from Bala?
LAD。 … Not very far; sir。
MYSELF。 … Are you going home now?
LAD。 … I am not; sir; our home is on the other side of Bala。 I am
going to see a relation up the road。
MYSELF。 … Bala is a nice place。
LAD。 … It is; sir; but not so fine as old Bala。
MYSELF。 … I never heard of such a place。 Where is it?
LAD。 … Under the lake; sir。
MYSELF。 … What do you mean?
LAD。 … It stood in the old time where the lake now is; and a fine
city it was; full of fine houses; towers; and castles; but with
neither church nor chapel; for the people neither knew God nor
cared for Him; and thought of nothing but singing and dancing and
other wicked things。 So God was angry with them; and one night;
when they were all busy at singing and dancing and the like; God
gave the word; and the city sank down into Unknown; and the lake
boiled up where it once stood。
MYSELF。 … That was a long time ago。
LAD。 … In truth; sir; it was。
MYSELF。 … Before the days of King Cadwaladr。
LAD。 … I daresay it was; sir。
I walked fast; but the lad was a shrewd walker; and though
encumbered with his greatcoat contrived to keep tolerably up with
me。 The road went over hill and dale; but upon the whole more
upward than downward。 After proceeding about an hour and a half we
left the lake; to the southern extremity of which we had nearly
come; somewhat behind; and bore away to the south…east; gradually
ascending。 At length the lad; pointing to a small farm…house on
the side of a hill; told me he was bound thither; and presently
bidding me farewell; turned aside up a footpath which led towards
it。
About a minute afterwards a small delicate furred creature with a
white mark round its neck and with a little tail trailing on the
ground ran swiftly across the road。 It was a weasel or something
of that genus; on observing it I was glad that the lad and the dog
were gone; as between them they would probably have killed it。 I
hate to see poor wild animals persecuted and murdered; lose my
appetite for dinner at hearing the screams of a hare pursued by
greyhounds; and am silly enough to feel disgust and horror at the
squeals of a rat in the fangs of a terrier; which one of the
sporting tribe once told me were the sweetest sounds in 〃natur。〃
I crossed a bridge over a deep gulley which discharged its waters
into a river in a valley on the right。 Arran rose in great majesty
on the farther side of this vale; its head partly shrouded in mist。
The day now became considerably overcast。 I wandered on over much
rough ground till I came to a collection of houses at the bottom of
a pass leading up a steep mountain。 Seeing the door of one of the
houses open I peeped in; and a woman who was sitting knitting in
the interior rose and came out to me。 I asked the name of the
place。 The name which she told me sounded something like Ty Capel
Saer … the House of the Chapel of the Carpenter。 I inquired the
name of the river in the valley。 Cynllwyd; hoary…headed; she
seemed to say; but here; as well as with respect to her first
answer; I speak under correction; for her Welsh was what my old
friends; the Spaniards; would call muy cerrado; that is; close or
indistinct。 She asked me if I was going up the bwlch。 I told her
I was。
〃Rather you than I;〃 said she; looking up to the heavens; which had
assumed a very dismal; not to say awful; appearance。
Presently I began to ascend the pass or bwlch; a green hill on my
right intercepting the view of Arran; another very lofty hill on my
left with wood towards the summit。 Coming to a little cottage
which stood on the left I went to the door and knocked。 A smiling
young woman opened it; of whom I asked the name of the house。
〃Ty Nant … the House of the Dingle;〃 she replied。
〃Do you live alone?〃 said I。
〃No; mother lives here。〃
〃Any Saesneg?〃
〃No;〃 said she with a smile; 〃S'sneg of no use here。〃
Her face looked the picture of kindness。 I was now indeed in Wales
amongst the real Welsh。 I went on some way。 Suddenly there was a
moaning sound; and rain came down in torrents。 Seeing a deserted
cottage on my left I went in。 There was fodder in it; and it
appeared to serve partly as a barn; partly as a cow…house。 The
rain poured upon the roof; and I was glad I had found shelter。
Close behind this place a small brook precipitated itself down
rocks in four successive falls。
The rain having ceased I proceeded; and after a considerable time
reached the top of the pass。 From thence I had a view of the
valley and lake of Bala; the lake looking like an immense sheet of
steel。 A round hill; however; somewhat intercepted the view of the
latter。 The scene in my immediate neighbourhood was very desolate;
moory hillocks were all about me of a wretched russet colour; on my
left; on the very crest of the hill up which I had so long been
toiling; stood a black pyramid of turf; a pole on the top of it。
The road now wore nearly due west down a steep descent。 Arran was
slightly to the north of me。 I; however; soon lost sight of it; as
I went down the farther side of the hill; which lies over against
it to the south…east。 The sun; now descending; began to shine out。
The pass down which I was now going was yet wilder than the one up
which I had lately come。 Close on my right was the steep hill's
side out of which the road or path had been cut; which was here and
there overhung by crags of wondrous forms; on my left was a very
deep glen; beyond which was a black; precipitous; rocky wall; from
a chasm near the top of which tumbled with a rushing sound a
slender brook; seemingly the commencement of a mountain stream;
which hurried into a valley far below towards the west。 When
nearly at the bottom of the descent I stood still to look around
me。 Grand and wild was the scenery。 On my left were noble green