Deheubarth　or　Southern　Region；　a　land　differing　widely；　as　I　had
  heard；　both　in　language　and　customs　from　Gwynedd　or　the　Northern；　a
  land　which　had　given　birth　to　the　illustrious　Ab　Gwilym；　and　where
  the　great　Ryce　family　had　flourished；　which　very　much　distinguished
  itself　in　the　Wars　of　the　Roses　…　a　member　of　which　Ryce　ap　Thomas
  placed　Henry　the　Seventh　on　the　throne　of　Britain　…　a　family　of
  royal　extraction；　and　which　after　the　death　of　Roderic　the　Great
  for　a　long　time　enjoyed　the　sovereignty　of　the　south。
  We　set　about　making　the　necessary　preparations　for　our　respective
  journeys。　　Those　for　mine　were　soon　made。　　I　bought　a　small　leather
  satchel　with　a　lock　and　key；　in　which　I　placed　a　white　linen　shirt；
  a　pair　of　worsted　stockings；　a　razor　and　a　prayer…book。　　Along　with
  it　I　bought　a　leather　strap　with　which　to　sling　it　over　my
  shoulder：　　I　got　my　boots　new　soled；　my　umbrella；　which　was　rather
  dilapidated；　mended；　put　twenty　sovereigns　into　my　purse；　and　then
  said　I　am　all　right　for　the　Deheubarth。
  As　my　wife　and　daughter　required　much　more　time　in　making
  preparations　for　their　journey　than　I　for　mine；　and　as　I　should
  only　be　in　their　way　whilst　they　were　employed；　it　was　determined
  that　I　should　depart　on　my　expedition　on　Thursday；　and　that　they
  should　remain　at　Llangollen　till　the　Saturday。
  We　were　at　first　in　some　perplexity　with　respect　to　the　disposal　of
  the　ecclesiastical　cat；　it　would　of　course　not　do　to　leave　it　in
  the　garden　to　the　tender　mercies　of　the　Calvinistic　Methodists　of
  the　neighbourhood；　more　especially　those　of　the　flannel
  manufactory；　and　my　wife　and　daughter　could　hardly　carry　it　with
  them。　　At　length　we　thought　of　applying　to　a　young　woman　of　sound
  church　principles；　who　was　lately　married　and　lived　over　the　water
  on　the　way　to　the　railroad　station；　with　whom　we　were　slightly
  acquainted；　to　take　charge　of　the　animal；　and　she　on　the　first
  intimation　of　our　wish；　willingly　acceded　to　it。　　So　with　her　poor
  puss　was　left　along　with　a　trifle　for　its　milk…money；　and　with　her；
  as　we　subsequently　learned；　it　continued　in　peace　and　comfort　till
  one　morning　it　sprang　suddenly　from　the　hearth　into　the　air；　gave　a
  mew；　and　died。　　So　much　for　the　ecclesiastical　cat！
  The　morning　of　Tuesday　was　rather　fine；　and　Mr　Ebenezer　E…；　who　had
  heard　of　our　intended　departure；　came　to　invite　us　to　spend　the
  evening　at　the　Vicarage。　　His　father　had　left　Llangollen　the　day
  before　for　Chester；　where　he　expected　to　be　detained　some　days。　　I
  told　him　we　should　be　most　happy　to　come。　　He　then　asked　me　to　take
  a　walk。　　I　agreed　with　pleasure；　and　we　set　out；　intending　to　go　to
  Llansilio　at　the　western　end　of　the　valley　and　look　at　the　church。
  The　church　was　an　ancient　building。　　It　had　no　spire；　but　had　the
  little　erection　on　its　roof；　so　usual　to　Welsh　churches；　for
  holding　a　bell。
  In　the　churchyard　is　a　tomb　in　which　an　old　squire　of　the　name　of
  Jones　was　buried　about　the　middle　of　the　last　century。　　There　is　a
  tradition　about　this　squire　and　tomb　to　the　following　effect。
  After　the　squire's　death　there　was　a　lawsuit　about　his　property；　in
  consequence　of　no　will　having　been　found。　　It　was　said　that　his
  will　had　been　buried　with　him　in　the　tomb；　which　after　some　time
  was　opened；　but　with　what　success　the　tradition　sayeth　not。
  In　the　evening　we　went　to　the　Vicarage。　　Besides　the　family　and
  ourselves　there　was　Mr　R…　and　one　or　two　more。　　We　had　a　very
  pleasant　party；　and　as　most　of　those　present　wished　to　hear
  something　connected　with　Spain；　I　talked　much　about　that　country；
  sang　songs　of　Germania；　and　related　in　an　abridged　form　Lope　de
  Vega's　ghost　story；　which　is　decidedly　the　best　ghost　story　in　the
  world。
  In　the　afternoon　of　Wednesday　I　went　and　took　leave　of　certain
  friends　in　the　town；　amongst　others　of　old　Mr　Jones。　　On　my　telling
  him　that　I　was　about　to　leave　Llangollen；　he　expressed　considerable
  regret；　but　said　that　it　was　natural　for　me　to　wish　to　return　to　my
  native　country。　　I　told　him　that　before　returning　to　England　I
  intended　to　make　a　pedestrian　tour　in　South　Wales。　　He　said　that　he
  should　die　without　seeing　the　south；　that　he　had　had　several
  opportunities　of　visiting　it　when　he　was　young；　which　he　had
  neglected；　and　that　he　was　now　too　old　to　wander　far　from　home。　　He
  then　asked　me　which　road　I　intended　to　take。　　I　told　him　that　I
  intended　to　strike　across　the　Berwyn　to　Llan　Rhyadr；　then　visit
  Sycharth；　once　the　seat　of　Owain　Glendower；　lying　to　the　east　of
  Llan　Rhyadr；　then　return　to　that　place；　and　after　seeing　the
  celebrated　cataract　across　the　mountains　to　Bala　…　whence　I　should
  proceed　due　south。　　I　then　asked　him　whether　he　had　ever　seen
  Sycharth　and　the　Rhyadr；　he　told　me　that　he　had　never　visited
  Sycharth；　but　had　seen　the　Rhyadr　more　than　once。　　He　then　smiled
  and　said　that　there　was　a　ludicrous　anecdote　connected　with　the
  Rhyadr；　which　he　would　relate　to　me。　　〃A　traveller　once　went　to　see
  the　Rhyadr；　and　whilst　gazing　at　it　a　calf　which　had　fallen　into
  the　stream　above；　whilst　grazing　upon　the　rocks；　came　tumbling　down
  the　cataract。　　'Wonderful！'　said　the　traveller；　and　going　away
  reported　that　it　was　not　only　a　fall　of　water；　but　of　calves；　and
  was　very　much　disappointed；　on　visiting　the　waterfall　on　another
  occasion；　to　see　no　calf　come　tumbling　down。〃　　I　took　leave　of　the
  kind　old　gentleman　with　regret；　never　expecting　to　see　him　again；
  as　he　was　in　his　eighty…fourth　year　…　he　was　a　truly　excellent
  character；　and　might　be　ranked　amongst　the　venerable　ornaments　of
  his　native　place。
  About　half…past　eight　o'clock　at　night　John　Jones　came　to　bid　me
  farewell。　　I　bade　him　sit　down；　and　sent　for　a　pint　of　ale　to
  regale　him　with。　　Notwithstanding　the　ale；　he　was　very　melancholy
  at　the　thought　that　I　was　about　to　leave　Llangollen；　probably　never
  to　return。　　To　enliven　him　I　gave　him　an　account　of　my　late
  expedition　to　Wrexham；　which　made　him　smile　more　than　once。　　When　I
  had　concluded　he　asked　me　whether　I　knew　the　meaning　of　the　word
  Wrexham：　　I　told　him　I　believed　I　did；　and　gave　him　the　derivation
  which　the　reader　will　find　in　an　early　chapter　of　this　work。　　He
  told　me　that　with　all　due　submission；　he　thought　he　could　give　me　a
  better；　which　he　had　heard　from　a　very　clever　man；　gwr　deallus
  iawn；　who　lived　about　two　miles　from　Llangollen　on　the　Corwen　road。
  In　the　old　time　a　man　of　the　name　of　Sam　kept　a　gwestfa；　or　inn；　at
  the　place　where　Wrexham　flow　stands；　when　he　died　he　left　it　to　his
  wife；　who　kept　it　after　him；　on　which　account　the　house　was　first
  called　Ty　wraig　Sam；　the　house　of　Sam's　wife；　and　then　for
  shortness　Wraig　Sam；　and　a　town　arising　about　it　by　degrees；　the
  town　too　was　called　Wraig　Sam；　which　the　Saxons　corrupted　into
  Wrexham。
  I　was　much　diverted　with　this　Welsh　derivation　of　Wrexham；　which　I
  did　not　attempt　to　controvert。　　After　we　had　had　some　further
  discourse　John　Jones　got　up；　shook　me　by　the　hand；　gave　a　sigh；
  wished　me　a　〃taith　hyfryd；〃　and　departed。　　Thus　terminated　my　last
  day　at　Llangollen。
  CHAPTER　LXIV
  Departure　for　South　Wales　…　Tregeiriog　…　Pleasing　Scene　…　Trying　to
  Read　…　Garmon　and　Lupus　…　The　Cracked　Voice　…　Effect　of　a
  Compliment　…　Llan　Rhyadr。
  THE　morning　of　the　21st　of　October　was　fine　and　cold；　there　was　a
  rime　frost　on　the　ground。　　At　about　eleven　o'clock　I　started　on　my
  journey　for　South　Wales；　intending　that　my　first　stage　should　be
  Llan　Rhyadr。　　My　wife　and　daughter　accompanied　me　as　far　as　Plas
  Newydd。　　As　we　passed　through　the　town　I　shook　hands　with　honest　A…
  ；　whom　I　saw　standing　at　the　door　of　a　shop；　with　a　kind　of　Spanish
  hat　on　his　head；　and　also　with　my　venerable　friend　old　Mr　Jones；
  whom　I　encountered　close　beside　his　own　domicile。　　At　the　Plas
  Newydd　I　took　an　affectionate　farewell　of　my　two　loved　ones；　and
  proceeded　to　ascend　the　Berwyn。　　Near　the　top　I　turned　round　to
  take　a　final　look　at　the　spot　where　I　had　lately　passed　many　a
  happy　hour。　　There　lay　Llangollen　far　below　me；　with　its　chimneys
  placidly　smoking；　its　pretty　church　rising　in　its　centre；　its　blue
  river　dividing　it　into　two　nearly　equal　parts；　and　the　mighty　hill
  of　Brennus　overhanging　it　from　the　north。
  I　sighed；　and　repeating　Einion　Du's　verse
  〃Tangnefedd　i　Llangollen！〃
  turned　away。
  I　went　over　the　top　of　the　hill　and　then　began　to　descend　its
  southern　side；　obtaining　a　distant　view　of　the　plains　of　Shropshire
  on　the　east。　　I　soon　reached　the　bottom　of　the　hill；　passed　through
  Llansanfraid；　and　threading　the　vale　of　the　Ceiriog　at　length　found
  myself　at　Pont　y　Meibion　in　front　of　the　house　of　Huw　Morris；　or
  rather　of　that　which　is　built　on　the　site　of　the　dwelling　of　the
  poet。　　I　stopped　and　remained　before　the　house　thinking　of　the
  mighty　Huw；　till　the　door　opened；　and　out　came　the　dark…featured
  man；　the　poet's　descendant；　whom　I　saw　when　visiting　the　place　in
  company　with　honest　John　Jones　…　he　had　now　a　spade　in　his　hand　and
  was　doubtless　going　to　his　labour。　　As　I　knew　him　to　be　of　a　rather
  sullen　unsocial　disposition；　I　said　nothing　to　him；　but　proceeded
  on　my　way。　　As　I　a