in　the　north；　and　from　the　top　of　a　bare　hill　I　obtained　a　prospect
  to　the　south；　noble　indeed　…　waters；　forests；　hoary　mountains；　and
  in　the　far　distance　the　sea。　　But　all　these　fine　prospects　were　a
  poor　compensation　for　what　I　underwent：　　I　was　scorched　by　the　sun；
  which　was　insufferably　hot；　and　my　feet　were　bleeding　from　the
  sharp　points　of　the　rocks　which　cut　through　my　boots　like　razors。
  At　length　coming　to　a　stone　wall　I　flung　myself　down　under　it；　and
  almost　thought　that　I　should　give　up　the　ghost。　　After　some　time；
  however；　I　recovered；　and　getting　up　tried　to　find　my　way　out　of
  the　anialwch。　　Sheer　good　fortune　caused　me　to　stumble　upon　a　path；
  by　following　which　I　came　to　a　lone　farm…house；　where　a　good…
  natured　woman　gave　me　certain　directions　by　means　of　which　I　at
  last　got　out　of　the　hot　stony　wilderness；　for　such　it　was；　upon　a
  smooth　royal　road。
  〃Trust　me　again　taking　any　short　cuts；〃　said　I；　〃after　the　specimen
  I　have　just　had。〃　　This；　however；　I　had　frequently　said　before；　and
  have　said　since　after　taking　short　cuts　…　and　probably　shall　often
  say　again　before　I　come　to　my　great　journey's　end。
  I　turned　to　the　east　which　I　knew　to　be　my　proper　direction；　and
  being　now　on　smooth　ground　put　my　legs　to　their　best　speed。　　The
  road　by　a　rapid　descent　conducted　me　to　a　beautiful　valley　with　a
  small　town　at　its　southern　end。　　I　soon　reached　the　town；　and　on
  inquiring　its　name　found　I　was　in　Tan　y　Bwlch；　which　interpreted
  signifieth　〃Below　the　Pass。〃　　Feeling　much　exhausted　I　entered　the
  Grapes　Inn。
  On　my　calling　for　brandy　and　water　I　was　shown　into　a　handsome
  parlour。　　The　brandy　and　water　soon　restored　the　vigour　which　I　had
  lost　in　the　wilderness。　　In　the　parlour　was　a　serious…looking
  gentleman；　with　a　glass　of　something　before　him。　　With　him；　as　I
  sipped　my　brandy　and　water；　I　got　into　discourse。　　The　discourse
  soon　took　a　religious　turn；　and　terminated　in　a　dispute。　　He　told
  me　he　believed　in　divine　predestination；　I　told　him　I　did　not；　but
  that　I　believed　in　divine　prescience。　　He　asked　me　whether　I　hoped
  to　be　saved；　I　told　him　I　did；　and　asked　him　whether　he　hoped　to　be
  saved。　　He　told　me　he　did　not；　and　as　he　said　so；　he　tapped　with　a
  silver　tea…spoon　on　the　rim　of　his　glass。　　I　said　that　he　seemed　to
  take　very　coolly　the　prospect　of　damnation；　he　replied　that　it　was
  of　no　use　taking　what　was　inevitable　otherwise　than　coolly。　　I
  asked　him　on　what　ground　he　imagined　he　should　be　lost；　he　replied
  on　the　ground　of　being　predestined　to　be　lost。　　I　asked　him　how　he
  knew　he　was　predestined　to　be　lost；　whereupon　he　asked　me　how　I
  knew　I　was　to　be　saved。　　I　told　him　I　did　not　know　I　was　to　be
  saved；　but　trusted　I　should　be　so　by　belief　in　Christ；　who　came
  into　the　world　to　save　sinners；　and　that　if　he　believed　in　Christ
  he　might　be　as　easily　saved　as　myself；　or　any　other　sinner　who
  believed　in　Him。　　Our　dispute　continued　a　considerable　time　longer。
  At　last；　finding　him　silent；　and　having　finished　my　brandy　and
  water；　I　got　up；　rang　the　bell；　paid　for　what　I　had　had；　and　left
  him　looking　very　miserable；　perhaps　at　finding　that　he　was　not
  quite　so　certain　of　eternal　damnation　as　he　had　hitherto　supposed。
  There　can　be　no　doubt　that　the　idea　of　damnation　is　anything　but
  disagreeable　to　some　people；　it　gives　them　a　kind　of　gloomy
  consequence　in　their　own　eyes。　　We　must　be　something　particular
  they　think；　or　God　would　hardly　think　it　worth　His　while　to　torment
  us　for　ever。
  I　inquired　the　way　to　Festiniog；　and　finding　that　I　had　passed　by
  it　on　my　way　to　the　town；　I　went　back；　and　as　directed　turned　to
  the　east　up　a　wide　pass；　down　which　flowed　a　river。　　I　soon　found
  myself　in　another　and　very　noble　valley；　intersected　by　the　river
  which　was　fed　by　numerous　streams　rolling　down　the　sides　of　the
  hills。　　The　road　which　I　followed　in　the　direction　of　the　east　lay
  on　the　southern　side　of　the　valley　and　led　upward　by　a　steep
  ascent。　　On　I　went；　a　mighty　hill　close　on　my　right。　　My　mind　was
  full　of　enthusiastic　fancies；　I　was　approaching　Festiniog　the
  birthplace　of　Rhys　Goch；　who　styled　himself　Rhys　Goch　of　Eryri　or
  Red　Rhys　of　Snowdon；　a　celebrated　bard；　and　a　partisan　of　Owen
  Glendower；　who　lived　to　an　immense　age；　and　who；　as　I　had　read；　was
  in　the　habit　of　composing　his　pieces　seated　on　a　stone　which　formed
  part　of　a　Druidical　circle；　for　which　reason　the　stone　was　called
  the　chair　of　Rhys　Goch；　yes；　my　mind　was　full　of　enthusiastic
  fancies　all　connected　with　this　Rhys　Goch；　and　as　I　went　along
  slowly；　I　repeated　stanzas　of　furious　war　songs　of　his　exciting　his
  countrymen　to　exterminate　the　English；　and　likewise　snatches　of　an
  abusive　ode　composed　by　him　against　a　fox　who　had　run　away　with　his
  favourite　peacock；　a　piece　so　abounding　with　hard　words　that　it　was
  termed　the　Drunkard's　chokepear；　as　no　drunkard　was　ever　able　to
  recite　it；　and　ever　and　anon　I　wished　I　could　come　in　contact　with
  some　native　of　the　region　with　whom　I　could　talk　about　Rhys　Goch；
  and　who　could　tell　me　whereabouts　stood　his　chair。
  Strolling　along　in　this　manner　I　was　overtaken　by　an　old　fellow
  with　a　stick　in　his　hand；　walking　very　briskly。　　He　had　a　crusty
  and　rather　conceited　look。　　I　spoke　to　him　in　Welsh；　and　he
  answered　in　English；　saying　that　I　need　not　trouble　myself　by
  speaking　Welsh；　as　he　had　plenty　of　English；　and　of　the　very　best。
  We　were　from　first　to　last　at　cross　purposes。　　I　asked　him　about
  Rhys　Goch　and　his　chair。　　He　told　me　that　he　knew　nothing　of
  either；　and　began　to　talk　of　Her　Majesty's　ministers　and　the　fine
  sights　of　London。　　I　asked　him　the　name　of　a　stream　which；
  descending　a　gorge　on　our　right；　ran　down　the　side　of　a　valley；　to
  join　the　river　at　its　bottom。　　He　told　me　that　he　did　not　know；　and
  asked　me　the　name　of　the　Queen's　eldest　daughter。　　I　told　him　I　did
  not　know；　and　remarked　that　it　was　very　odd　that　he　could　not　tell
  me　the　name　of　a　stream　in　his　own　vale。　　He　replied　that　it　was
  not　a　bit　more　odd　than　that　I　could　not　tell　him　the　name　of　the
  eldest　daughter　of　the　Queen　of　England：　　I　told　him　that　when　I
  was　in　Wales　I　wanted　to　talk　about　Welsh　matters；　and　he　told　me
  that　when　he　was　with　English　he　wanted　to　talk　about　English
  matters。　　I　returned　to　the　subject　of　Rhys　Goch　and　his　chair；　and
  he　returned　to　the　subject　of　Her　Majesty's　ministers；　and　the　fine
  folks　of　London。　　I　told　him　that　I　cared　not　a　straw　about　Her
  Majesty's　ministers　and　the　fine　folks　of　London；　and　he　replied
  that　he　cared　not　a　straw　for　Rhys　Goch；　his　chair　or　old　women's
  stories　of　any　kind。
  Regularly　incensed　against　the　old　fellow；　I　told　him　he　was　a　bad
  Welshman；　and　he　retorted　by　saying　I　was　a　bad　Englishman。　　I　said
  he　appeared　to　know　next　to　nothing。　　He　retorted　by　saying　I　knew
  less　than　nothing；　and　almost　inarticulate　with　passion　added　that
  he　scorned　to　walk　in　such　illiterate　company；　and　suiting　the
  action　to　the　word　sprang　up　a　steep　and　rocky　footpath　on　the
  right；　probably　a　short　cut　to　his　domicile；　and　was　out　of　sight
  in　a　twinkling。　　We　were　both　wrong：　　I　most　so。　　He　was　crusty　and
  conceited；　but　I　ought　to　have　humoured　him　and　then　I　might　have
  got　out　of　him　anything　he　knew；　always　supposing　that　he　knew
  anything。
  About　an　hour's　walk　from　Tan　y　Bwlch　brought　me　to　Festiniog；
  which　is　situated　on　the　top　of　a　lofty　hill　looking　down　from　the
  south…east；　on　the　valley　which　I　have　described；　and　which　as　I
  know　not　its　name　I　shall　style　the　Valley　of　the　numerous　streams。
  I　went　to　the　inn；　a　large　old…fashioned　house　standing　near　the
  church；　the　mistress　of　it　was　a　queer…looking　old　woman；
  antiquated　in　her　dress　and　rather　blunt　in　her　manner。　　Of　her；
  after　ordering　dinner；　I　made　inquiries　respecting　the　chair　of
  Rhys　Goch；　but　she　said　that　she　had　never　heard　of　such　a　thing；
  and　after　glancing　at　me　askew；　for　a　moment；　with　a　curiously…
  formed　left　eye　which　she　had；　went　away　muttering　chair；　chair；
  leaving　me　in　a　large　and　rather　dreary　parlour；　to　which　she　had
  shown　me。　　I　felt　very　fatigued；　rather　I　believe　from　that　unlucky
  short　cut　than　from　the　length　of　the　way；　for　I　had　not　come　more
  than　eighteen　miles。　　Drawing　a　chair　towards　a　table　I　sat　down；
  and　placing　my　elbows　upon　the　board　I　leaned　my　face　upon　my
  upturned　hands；　and　presently　fell　into　a　sweet　sleep；　from　which　I
  awoke　exceedingly　refreshed　just　as　a　maid　opened　the　room　door　to
  lay　the　cloth。
  After　dinner　I　got　up；　went　out　and　strolled　about　the　place。　　It
  was　small；　and　presented　nothing　very　remarkable。　　Tired　of
  strolling　I　went　and　leaned　my　back　against　the　wall　of　the
  churchyard　and　enjoyed　the　cool　of　the　evening；　for　evening　with
  its　coolness　and　shadows　had　now　come　on。
  As　I　leaned　against　the　wall；　an　elderly　man　came　up　and　entered
  into　discourse　with　me。　　He　told　me　he　was　a　barber　by　profession；
  had　travelled　all　over　Wales；　and　had　seen　London。　　I　asked　him
  about　the　chair　of　Rhys　Goch。　　He　told　me　that　he　had　heard　of　some
  such　chair　a　long　time　ago；　but　could　give　me　no　information　as　to
  where　it　stood。　　I　kno