第 59 节
作者:随便看看      更新:2021-02-25 00:47      字数:9322
  very seasonable one; being about the harvest; and in it things
  temporal and spiritual were very happily blended。  The part of the
  sermon which I heard … I regretted that I did not hear the whole …
  lasted about five…and…twenty minutes:  a hymn followed; and then
  the congregation broke up。  I inquired the name of the young man
  who preached; and was told that it was Edwards; and that he came
  from Caernarvon。  The name of the incumbent of the parish was
  Thomas。
  Leaving the village of the harvest sermon I proceeded on my way
  which lay to the south…east。  I was now drawing nigh to the
  mountainous district of Eryri; a noble hill called Mount Eilio
  appeared before me to the north; an immense mountain called Pen
  Drws Coed lay over against it on the south; just like a couchant
  elephant with its head lower than the top of its back。  After a
  time I entered a most beautiful sunny valley; and presently came to
  a bridge over a pleasant stream running in the direction of the
  south。  As I stood upon that bridge I almost fancied myself in
  Paradise; everything looked so beautiful or grand … green; sunny
  meadows lay all around me; intersected by the brook; the waters of
  which ran with tinkling laughter over a shingly bottom。  Noble
  Eilio to the north; enormous Pen Drws Coed to the south; a tall
  mountain far beyond them to the east。  〃I never was in such a
  lovely spot!〃 I cried to myself in a perfect rapture。  〃Oh; how
  glad I should be to learn the name of this bridge; standing on
  which I have had 'Heaven opened to me;' as my old friends the
  Spaniards used to say。〃  Scarcely had I said these words when I
  observed a man and a woman coming towards the bridge in the
  direction in which I was bound。  I hastened to meet them in the
  hope of obtaining information。  They were both rather young; and
  were probably a couple of sweethearts taking a walk or returning
  from meeting。  The woman was a few steps in advance of the man;
  seeing that I was about to address her; she averted her head and
  quickened her steps; and before I had completed the question; which
  I put to her in Welsh; she had bolted past me screaming 〃Ah Dim
  Seasneg;〃 and was several yards distant。
  I then addressed myself to the man who had stopped; asking him the
  name of the bridge。
  〃Pont Bettws;〃 he replied。
  〃And what may be the name of the river?〃 said I。
  〃Afon … something;〃 said he。
  And on my thanking him he went forward to the woman who was waiting
  for him by the bridge。
  〃Is that man Welsh or English?〃 I heard her say when he had
  rejoined her。
  〃I don't know;〃 said the man … 〃he was civil enough; why were you
  such a fool?〃
  〃Oh; I thought he would speak to me in English;〃 said the woman;
  〃and the thought of that horrid English puts me into such a
  flutter; you know I can't speak a word of it。〃
  They proceeded on their way and I proceeded on mine; and presently
  coming to a little inn on the left side of the way; at the entrance
  of a village; I went in。
  A respectable…looking man and woman were seated at tea at a table
  in a nice clean kitchen。  I sat down on a chair near the table; and
  called for ale … the ale was brought me in a jug … I drank some;
  put the jug on the table; and began to discourse with the people in
  Welsh。  A handsome dog was seated on the ground; suddenly it laid
  one of its paws on its master's knee。
  〃Down; Perro;〃 said he。
  〃Perro!〃 said I; 〃why do you call the dog Perro?〃
  〃We call him Perro;〃 said the man; 〃because his name is Perro。〃
  〃But how came you to give him that name?〃 said I。
  〃We did not give it to him;〃 said the man … 〃he bore that name when
  he came into our hands; a farmer gave him to us when he was very
  young; and told us his name was Perro。〃
  〃And how came the farmer to call him Perro?〃 said I。
  〃I don't know;〃 said the man … 〃why do you ask?〃
  〃Perro;〃 said I; 〃is a Spanish word; and signifies a dog in
  general。  I am rather surprised that a dog in the mountains of
  Wales should be called by the Spanish word for dog。〃  I fell into a
  fit of musing。  〃How Spanish words are diffused!  Wherever you go
  you will find some Spanish word or other in use。  I have heard
  Spanish words used by Russian mujiks and Turkish fig…gatherers … I
  have this day heard a Spanish word in the mountains of Wales; and I
  have no doubt that were I to go to Iceland I should find Spanish
  words used there。  How can I doubt it; when I reflect that more
  than six hundred years ago; one of the words to denote a bad woman
  was Spanish。  In the oldest of Icelandic domestic Sagas;
  Skarphedin; the son of Nial the seer; called Hallgerdr; widow of
  Gunnar; a puta … and that word so maddened Hallgerdr that she never
  rested till she had brought about his destruction。  Now; why this
  preference everywhere for Spanish words over those of every other
  language?  I never heard French words or German words used by
  Russian mujiks and Turkish fig…gatherers。  I question whether I
  should find any in Iceland forming part of the vernacular。  I
  certainly never found a French or even a German word in an old
  Icelandic Saga。  Why this partiality everywhere for Spanish words?
  the question is puzzling; at any rate it puts me out … 〃
  〃Yes; it puts me out!〃 I exclaimed aloud; striking my fist on the
  table with a vehemence which caused the good folks to start half up
  from their seats。  Before they could say anything; however; a
  vehicle drove up to the door; and a man getting out came into the
  room。  He had a glazed hat on his head; and was dressed something
  like the guard of a mail。  He touched his hat to me; and called for
  a glass of whiskey。  I gave him the sele of the evening and entered
  into conversation with him in English。  In the course of discourse
  I learned that he was the postman; and was going his rounds in his
  cart … he was more than respectful to me; he was fawning and
  sycophantic。  The whiskey was brought; and he stood with the glass
  in his hand。  Suddenly he began speaking Welsh to the people;
  before; however; he had uttered two sentences the woman lifted her
  hand with an alarmed air; crying 〃Hush! he understands。〃  The
  fellow was turning me to ridicule。  I flung my head back; closed my
  eyes; opened my mouth and laughed aloud。  The fellow stood aghast;
  his hand trembled; and he spilt the greater part of the whiskey
  upon the ground。  At the end of about half a minute I got up; asked
  what I had to pay; and on being told twopence; I put down the
  money。  Then going up to the man I put my right forefinger very
  near to his nose; and said 〃Dwy o iaith dwy o wyneb; two languages;
  two faces; friend!〃  Then after leering at him for a moment I
  wished the people of the house good…evening and departed。
  Walking rapidly on towards the east I soon drew near the
  termination of the valley。  The valley terminates in a deep gorge
  or pass between Mount Eilio … which by…the…bye is part of the chine
  of Snowdon … and Pen Drws Coed。  The latter; that couchant elephant
  with its head turned to the north…east; seems as if it wished to
  bar the pass with its trunk; by its trunk I mean a kind of jaggy
  ridge which descends down to the road。  I entered the gorge;
  passing near a little waterfall which with much noise runs down the
  precipitous side of Mount Eilio; presently I came to a little mill
  by the side of a brook running towards the east。  I asked the
  miller…woman; who was standing near the mill; with her head turned
  towards the setting sun; the name of the mill and the stream。  〃The
  mill is called 'The mill of the river of Lake Cwellyn;'〃 said she;
  〃and the river is called the river of Lake Cwellyn。〃
  〃And who owns the land?〃 said I。
  〃Sir Richard;〃 said she。  〃I Sir Richard yw yn perthyn y tir。  Mr
  Williams; however; possesses some part of Mount Eilio。〃
  〃And who is Mr Williams?〃 said I。
  〃Who is Mr Williams?〃 said the miller's wife。  〃Ho; ho! what a
  stranger you must be to ask me who is Mr Williams。〃
  I smiled and passed on。  The mill was below the level of the road;
  and its wheel was turned by the water of a little conduit supplied
  by the brook at some distance above the mill。  I had observed
  similar conduits employed for similar purposes in Cornwall。  A
  little below the mill was a weir; and a little below the weir the
  river ran frothing past the extreme end of the elephant's snout。
  Following the course of the river I at last emerged with it from
  the pass into a valley surrounded by enormous mountains。  Extending
  along it from west to east; and occupying its entire southern part
  lay an oblong piece of water; into which the streamlet of the pass
  discharged itself。  This was one of the many beautiful lakes; which
  a few days before I had seen from the Wyddfa。  As for the Wyddfa I
  now beheld it high above me in the north…east looking very grand
  indeed; shining like a silver helmet whilst catching the glories of
  the setting sun。
  I proceeded slowly along the road; the lake below me on my right
  hand; whilst the shelvy side of Snowdon rose above me on the left。
  The evening was calm and still; and no noise came upon my ear save
  the sound of a cascade fal