第 59 节
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very seasonable one; being about the harvest; and in it things
temporal and spiritual were very happily blended。 The part of the
sermon which I heard … I regretted that I did not hear the whole …
lasted about five…and…twenty minutes: a hymn followed; and then
the congregation broke up。 I inquired the name of the young man
who preached; and was told that it was Edwards; and that he came
from Caernarvon。 The name of the incumbent of the parish was
Thomas。
Leaving the village of the harvest sermon I proceeded on my way
which lay to the south…east。 I was now drawing nigh to the
mountainous district of Eryri; a noble hill called Mount Eilio
appeared before me to the north; an immense mountain called Pen
Drws Coed lay over against it on the south; just like a couchant
elephant with its head lower than the top of its back。 After a
time I entered a most beautiful sunny valley; and presently came to
a bridge over a pleasant stream running in the direction of the
south。 As I stood upon that bridge I almost fancied myself in
Paradise; everything looked so beautiful or grand … green; sunny
meadows lay all around me; intersected by the brook; the waters of
which ran with tinkling laughter over a shingly bottom。 Noble
Eilio to the north; enormous Pen Drws Coed to the south; a tall
mountain far beyond them to the east。 〃I never was in such a
lovely spot!〃 I cried to myself in a perfect rapture。 〃Oh; how
glad I should be to learn the name of this bridge; standing on
which I have had 'Heaven opened to me;' as my old friends the
Spaniards used to say。〃 Scarcely had I said these words when I
observed a man and a woman coming towards the bridge in the
direction in which I was bound。 I hastened to meet them in the
hope of obtaining information。 They were both rather young; and
were probably a couple of sweethearts taking a walk or returning
from meeting。 The woman was a few steps in advance of the man;
seeing that I was about to address her; she averted her head and
quickened her steps; and before I had completed the question; which
I put to her in Welsh; she had bolted past me screaming 〃Ah Dim
Seasneg;〃 and was several yards distant。
I then addressed myself to the man who had stopped; asking him the
name of the bridge。
〃Pont Bettws;〃 he replied。
〃And what may be the name of the river?〃 said I。
〃Afon … something;〃 said he。
And on my thanking him he went forward to the woman who was waiting
for him by the bridge。
〃Is that man Welsh or English?〃 I heard her say when he had
rejoined her。
〃I don't know;〃 said the man … 〃he was civil enough; why were you
such a fool?〃
〃Oh; I thought he would speak to me in English;〃 said the woman;
〃and the thought of that horrid English puts me into such a
flutter; you know I can't speak a word of it。〃
They proceeded on their way and I proceeded on mine; and presently
coming to a little inn on the left side of the way; at the entrance
of a village; I went in。
A respectable…looking man and woman were seated at tea at a table
in a nice clean kitchen。 I sat down on a chair near the table; and
called for ale … the ale was brought me in a jug … I drank some;
put the jug on the table; and began to discourse with the people in
Welsh。 A handsome dog was seated on the ground; suddenly it laid
one of its paws on its master's knee。
〃Down; Perro;〃 said he。
〃Perro!〃 said I; 〃why do you call the dog Perro?〃
〃We call him Perro;〃 said the man; 〃because his name is Perro。〃
〃But how came you to give him that name?〃 said I。
〃We did not give it to him;〃 said the man … 〃he bore that name when
he came into our hands; a farmer gave him to us when he was very
young; and told us his name was Perro。〃
〃And how came the farmer to call him Perro?〃 said I。
〃I don't know;〃 said the man … 〃why do you ask?〃
〃Perro;〃 said I; 〃is a Spanish word; and signifies a dog in
general。 I am rather surprised that a dog in the mountains of
Wales should be called by the Spanish word for dog。〃 I fell into a
fit of musing。 〃How Spanish words are diffused! Wherever you go
you will find some Spanish word or other in use。 I have heard
Spanish words used by Russian mujiks and Turkish fig…gatherers … I
have this day heard a Spanish word in the mountains of Wales; and I
have no doubt that were I to go to Iceland I should find Spanish
words used there。 How can I doubt it; when I reflect that more
than six hundred years ago; one of the words to denote a bad woman
was Spanish。 In the oldest of Icelandic domestic Sagas;
Skarphedin; the son of Nial the seer; called Hallgerdr; widow of
Gunnar; a puta … and that word so maddened Hallgerdr that she never
rested till she had brought about his destruction。 Now; why this
preference everywhere for Spanish words over those of every other
language? I never heard French words or German words used by
Russian mujiks and Turkish fig…gatherers。 I question whether I
should find any in Iceland forming part of the vernacular。 I
certainly never found a French or even a German word in an old
Icelandic Saga。 Why this partiality everywhere for Spanish words?
the question is puzzling; at any rate it puts me out … 〃
〃Yes; it puts me out!〃 I exclaimed aloud; striking my fist on the
table with a vehemence which caused the good folks to start half up
from their seats。 Before they could say anything; however; a
vehicle drove up to the door; and a man getting out came into the
room。 He had a glazed hat on his head; and was dressed something
like the guard of a mail。 He touched his hat to me; and called for
a glass of whiskey。 I gave him the sele of the evening and entered
into conversation with him in English。 In the course of discourse
I learned that he was the postman; and was going his rounds in his
cart … he was more than respectful to me; he was fawning and
sycophantic。 The whiskey was brought; and he stood with the glass
in his hand。 Suddenly he began speaking Welsh to the people;
before; however; he had uttered two sentences the woman lifted her
hand with an alarmed air; crying 〃Hush! he understands。〃 The
fellow was turning me to ridicule。 I flung my head back; closed my
eyes; opened my mouth and laughed aloud。 The fellow stood aghast;
his hand trembled; and he spilt the greater part of the whiskey
upon the ground。 At the end of about half a minute I got up; asked
what I had to pay; and on being told twopence; I put down the
money。 Then going up to the man I put my right forefinger very
near to his nose; and said 〃Dwy o iaith dwy o wyneb; two languages;
two faces; friend!〃 Then after leering at him for a moment I
wished the people of the house good…evening and departed。
Walking rapidly on towards the east I soon drew near the
termination of the valley。 The valley terminates in a deep gorge
or pass between Mount Eilio … which by…the…bye is part of the chine
of Snowdon … and Pen Drws Coed。 The latter; that couchant elephant
with its head turned to the north…east; seems as if it wished to
bar the pass with its trunk; by its trunk I mean a kind of jaggy
ridge which descends down to the road。 I entered the gorge;
passing near a little waterfall which with much noise runs down the
precipitous side of Mount Eilio; presently I came to a little mill
by the side of a brook running towards the east。 I asked the
miller…woman; who was standing near the mill; with her head turned
towards the setting sun; the name of the mill and the stream。 〃The
mill is called 'The mill of the river of Lake Cwellyn;'〃 said she;
〃and the river is called the river of Lake Cwellyn。〃
〃And who owns the land?〃 said I。
〃Sir Richard;〃 said she。 〃I Sir Richard yw yn perthyn y tir。 Mr
Williams; however; possesses some part of Mount Eilio。〃
〃And who is Mr Williams?〃 said I。
〃Who is Mr Williams?〃 said the miller's wife。 〃Ho; ho! what a
stranger you must be to ask me who is Mr Williams。〃
I smiled and passed on。 The mill was below the level of the road;
and its wheel was turned by the water of a little conduit supplied
by the brook at some distance above the mill。 I had observed
similar conduits employed for similar purposes in Cornwall。 A
little below the mill was a weir; and a little below the weir the
river ran frothing past the extreme end of the elephant's snout。
Following the course of the river I at last emerged with it from
the pass into a valley surrounded by enormous mountains。 Extending
along it from west to east; and occupying its entire southern part
lay an oblong piece of water; into which the streamlet of the pass
discharged itself。 This was one of the many beautiful lakes; which
a few days before I had seen from the Wyddfa。 As for the Wyddfa I
now beheld it high above me in the north…east looking very grand
indeed; shining like a silver helmet whilst catching the glories of
the setting sun。
I proceeded slowly along the road; the lake below me on my right
hand; whilst the shelvy side of Snowdon rose above me on the left。
The evening was calm and still; and no noise came upon my ear save
the sound of a cascade fal