purest　English。　　Now　a　thousand　thanks　for　your　civility。　　I　would
  have　some　more　chat　with　you；　but　night　is　coming　on；　and　I　am
  bound　to　Holyhead。〃
  Then　leaving　the　men　staring　after　me；　I　bent　my　steps　towards
  Holyhead。
  I　passed　by　a　place　called　Llan　something；　standing　lonely　on　its
  hill。　　The　country　round　looked　sad　and　desolate。　　It　is　true　night
  had　come　on　when　I　saw　it。
  On　I　hurried。　　The　voices　of　children　sounded　sweetly　at　a　distance
  across　the　wild　champaign　on　my　left。
  It　grew　darker　and　darker。　　On　I　hurried　along　the　road；　at　last　I
  came　to　lone；　lordly　groves。　　On　my　right　was　an　open　gate　and　a
  lodge。　　I　went　up　to　the　lodge。　　The　door　was　open；　and　in　a　little
  room　I　beheld　a　nice…looking　old　lady　sitting　by　a　table；　on　which
  stood　a　lighted　candle；　with　her　eyes　fixed　on　a　large　book。
  〃Excuse　me；〃　said　I；　〃but　who　owns　this　property？〃
  The　old　lady　looked　up　from　her　book；　which　appeared　to　be　a　Bible；
  without　the　slightest　surprise；　though　I　certainly　came　upon　her
  unawares；　and　answered：
  〃Mr　John　Wynn。〃
  I　shortly　passed　through　a　large　village；　or　rather　town；　the　name
  of　which　I　did　not　learn。　　I　then　went　on　for　a　mile　or　two；　and
  saw　a　red　light　at　some　distance。　　The　road　led　nearly　up　to　it；
  and　then　diverged　towards　the　north。　　Leaving　the　road　I　made
  towards　the　light　by　a　lane；　and　soon　came　to　a　railroad　station。
  〃You　won't　have　long　to　wait；　sir；〃　said　a　man；　〃the　train　to
  Holyhead　will　be　here　presently。〃
  〃How　far　is　it　to　Holyhead？〃　said　I。
  〃Two　miles；　sir；　and　the　fare　is　only　sixpence。〃
  〃I　despise　railroads；〃　said　I；　〃and　those　who　travel　by　them；〃　and
  without　waiting　for　an　answer　returned　to　the　road。　　Presently　I
  heard　the　train　…　it　stopped　for　a　minute　at　the　station；　and　then
  continuing　its　course　passed　me　on　my　left　hand；　voiding　fierce
  sparks；　and　making　a　terrible　noise　…　the　road　was　a　melancholy
  one；　my　footsteps　sounded　hollow　upon　it。　　I　seemed　to　be　its　only
  traveller　…　a　wall　extended　for　a　long；　long　way　on　my　left。　　At
  length　I　came　to　a　turnpike。　　I　felt　desolate　and　wished　to　speak
  to　somebody。　　I　tapped　at　the　window；　at　which　there　was　a　light；　a
  woman　opened　it。　　〃How　far　to　Holyhead？〃　said　I　in　English。
  〃Dim　Saesneg；〃　said　the　woman。
  I　repeated　my　question　in　Welsh。
  〃Two　miles；〃　said　she。
  〃Still　two　miles　to　Holyhead　by　the　road；〃　thought　I。　　〃Nos　da；〃
  said　I　to　the　woman　and　sped　along。　　At　length　I　saw　water　on　my
  right；　seemingly　a　kind　of　bay；　and　presently　a　melancholy　ship。　　I
  doubled　my　pace；　which　was　before　tolerably　quick；　and　soon　saw　a
  noble…looking　edifice　on　my　left；　brilliantly　lighted　up。　　〃What　a
  capital　inn　that　would　make；〃　said　I；　looking　at　it　wistfully；　as　I
  passed　it。　　Presently　I　found　myself　in　the　midst　of　a　poor；　dull；
  ill…lighted　town。
  〃Where　is　the　inn？〃　said　I　to　a　man。
  〃The　inn；　sir；　you　have　passed　it。　　The　inn　is　yonder；〃　he
  continued；　pointing　towards　the　noble…looking　edifice。
  〃What；　is　that　the　inn？〃　said　I。
  〃Yes；　sir；　the　railroad　hotel　…　and　a　first…rate　hotel　it　is。〃
  〃And　are　there　no　other　inns？〃
  〃Yes；　but　they　are　all　poor　places。　　No　gent　puts　up　at　them　…　all
  the　gents　by　the　railroad　put　up　at　the　railroad　hotel。〃
  What　was　I　to　do？　after　turning　up　my　nose　at　the　railroad；　was　I
  to　put　up　at　its　hotel？　　Surely　to　do　so　would　be　hardly　acting
  with　consistency。　　〃Ought　I　not　rather　to　go　to　some　public…house；
  frequented　by　captains　of　fishing　smacks；　and　be　put　in　a　bed　a
  foot　too　short　for　me；〃　said　I；　as　I　reflected　on　my　last　night's
  couch　at　Mr　Pritchard's。　　〃No；　that　won't　do　…　I　shall　go　to　the
  hotel；　I　have　money　in　my　pocket；　and　a　person　with　money　in　his
  pocket　has　surely　a　right　to　be　inconsistent　if　he　pleases。〃
  So　I　turned　back　and　entered　the　railroad　hotel　with　lofty　port　and
  with　sounding　step；　for　I　had　twelve　sovereigns　in　my　pocket；
  besides　a　half　one；　and　some　loose　silver；　and　feared　not　to
  encounter　the　gaze　of　any　waiter　or　landlord　in　the　land。　　〃Send
  boots！〃　I　roared　to　the　waiter；　as　I　flung　myself　down　in　an　arm…
  chair　in　a　magnificent　coffee…room。　　〃What　the　deuce　are　you
  staring　at？　send　boots　can't　you；　and　ask　what　I　can　have　for
  dinner。〃
  〃Yes；　sir；〃　said　the　waiter；　and　with　a　low　bow　departed。
  〃These　boots　are　rather　dusty；〃　said　the　boots；　a　grey…haired；
  venerable…looking　man；　after　he　had　taken　off　my　thick；　solid；
  square…toed　boots。　　〃I　suppose　you　came　walking　from　the　railroad？〃
  〃Confound　the　railroad！〃　said　I。　　〃I　came　walking　from　Bangor。　　I
  would　have　you　know　that　I　have　money　in　my　pocket；　and　can　afford
  to　walk。　　I　am　fond　of　the　beauties　of　nature；　now　it　is　impossible
  to　see　much　of　the　beauties　of　nature　unless　you　walk。　　I　am
  likewise　fond　of　poetry；　and　take　especial　delight　in　inspecting
  the　birth…places　and　haunts　of　poets。　　It　is　because　I　am　fond　of
  poetry；　poets　and　their　haunts；　that　I　am　come　to　Anglesey。
  Anglesey　does　not　abound　in　the　beauties　of　nature；　but　there　never
  was　such　a　place　for　poets；　you　meet　a　poet；　or　the　birth…place　of
  a　poet；　everywhere。〃
  〃Did　your　honour　ever　hear　of　Gronwy　Owen？〃　said　the　old　man。
  〃I　have；〃　I　replied；　〃and　yesterday　I　visited　his　birth…place；　so
  you　have　heard　of　Gronwy　Owen？〃
  〃Heard　of　him；　your　honour；　yes；　and　read　his　works。　　That　'Cowydd
  y　Farn'　of　his　is　a　wonderful　poem。〃
  〃You　say　right；〃　said　I；　〃the　'Cowydd　of　Judgment'　contains　some　of
  the　finest　things　ever　written　…　that　description　of　the　toppling
  down　of　the　top　crag　of　Snowdon；　at　the　day　of　Judgment；　beats
  anything　in　Homer。〃
  〃Then　there　was　Lewis　Morris；　your　honour；〃　said　the　old　man；　〃who
  gave　Gronwy　his　education　and　wrote　'The　Lasses　of　Meirion'　…　and　…
  〃
  〃And　'The　Cowydd　to　the　Snail；'〃　said　I；　interrupting　him　…　〃a
  wonderful　man　he　was。〃
  〃I　am　rejoiced　to　see　your　honour　in　our　house；〃　said　boots；　〃I
  never　saw　an　English　gentleman　before　who　knew　so　much　about　Welsh
  poetry；　nor　a　Welsh　one　either。　　Ah；　if　your　honour　is　fond　of
  poets　and　their　places　you　did　right　to　come　to　Anglesey　…　and　your
  honour　was　right　in　saying　that　you　can't　stir　a　step　without
  meeting　one；　you　have　an　example　of　the　truth　of　that　in　me　…　for
  to　tell　your　honour　the　truth；　I　am　a　poet　myself；　and　no　bad　one
  either。〃
  Then　tucking　the　dusty　boots　under　his　arm；　the　old　man　with　a　low
  congee；　and　a　〃Good…night；　your　honour！〃　shuffled　out　of　the　room。
  CHAPTER　XL
  Caer　Gyby　…　Lewis　Morris　…　Noble　Character。
  I　DINED　or　rather　supped　well　at　the　Railroad　Inn　…　I　beg　its
  pardon；　Hotel；　for　the　word　Inn　at　the　present　day　is　decidedly
  vulgar。　　I　likewise　slept　well；　how　could　I　do　otherwise；　passing
  the　night；　as　I　did；　in　an　excellent　bed　in　a　large；　cool；　quiet
  room？　　I　arose　rather　late；　went　down　to　the　coffee…room　and　took
  my　breakfast　leisurely；　after　which　I　paid　my　bill　and　strolled
  forth　to　observe　the　wonders　of　the　place。
  Caer　Gybi　or　Cybi's　town　is　situated　on　the　southern　side　of　a　bay
  on　the　north…western　side　of　Anglesey。　　Close　to　it　on　the　south…
  west　is　a　very　high　headland　called　in　Welsh　Pen　Caer　Gybi；　or　the
  head　of　Cybi's　city；　and　in　English　Holy　Head。　　On　the　north；
  across　the　bay；　is　another　mountain　of　equal　altitude；　which　if　I
  am　not　mistaken　bears　in　Welsh　the　name　of　Mynydd　Llanfair；　or
  Saint　Mary's　Mount。　　It　is　called　Cybi's　town　from　one　Cybi；　who
  about　the　year　500　built　a　college　here　to　which　youths　noble　and
  ignoble　resorted　from　far　and　near。　　He　was　a　native　of　Dyfed　or
  Pembrokeshire；　and　was　a　friend　and　for　a　long　time　a　fellow…
  labourer　of　Saint　David。　　Besides　being　learned；　according　to　the
  standard　of　the　time；　he　was　a　great　walker；　and　from　bronzing　his
  countenance　by　frequent　walking　in　the　sun　was　generally　called
  Cybi　Velin；　which　means　tawny　or　yellow　Cybi。
  So　much　for　Cybi；　and　his　town！　　And　now　something　about　one　whose
  memory　haunted　me　much　more　than　that　of　Cybi　during　my　stay　at
  Holyhead。
  Lewis　Morris　was　born　at　a　place　called　Tref　y　Beirdd；　in　Anglesey；
  in　the　year　1700。　　Anglesey；　or　Mona；　has　given　birth　to　many
  illustrious　men；　but　few；　upon　the　whole；　entitled　to　more
  honourable　mention　than　himself。　　From　a　humble　situation　in　life；
  for　he　served　an　apprenticeship　to　a　cooper　at　Holyhead；　he　raised
  himself　by　his　industry　and　talents　to　affluence　and　distinction；
  became　a　landed　proprietor　in　the　county　of　Cardigan；　and　inspector
  of　the　royal　domains　and　mines　in　Wales。　　Perhaps　a　man　more
  generally　accomplished　never　existed；　he　was　a　first…rate　mechanic；
  an　expert　navigator；　a　great　musician；　both　in　theory　and　practice；
  and　a　poet　of　singular　excellence。　　Of　him　it　was　said；　and　with
  truth；　that　he　could　build　a　ship　and　sail　it；　frame　a　harp　and
  make　it　speak；　write　an　ode　and　set　it　to　music。　　Yet　that　saying；
  eulogistic　as　it　is；　is　far　from　expressing　all　the　vast　powers　and
  acquirements　of　Lewis　Morris。　　Though　self…taught；　he　was
  confessedly　the　best　Welsh　scholar　of　his　age；　and　was　well…versed
  in　those　cognate　dialects　of　the　Welsh　…　the　Cornish；　Armoric；
  Highland　Gaelic　and　Ir