is　a　fine　thing　sometimes；　but　not　always。　　By　being　sententious
  here；　I　got　sherry；　which　I　dislike；　instead　of　ale　which　I　like；
  and　should　have　to　pay　more　for　what　was　disagreeable；　than　I
  should　have　had　to　pay　for　what　was　agreeable。　　Yet　I　had　merely
  echoed　the　poet's　words　in　calling　for　a　pint　and　chop；　so　after
  all　the　poet　was　to　blame　for　both　mistakes。　　But　perhaps　he　meant
  that　I　should　drink　sherry　at　his　house；　and　when　he　advised　me　to
  call　for　a　pint；　he　meant　a　pint　of　sherry。　　But　the　maid　had　said
  he　kept　a　pot…house；　and　no　pot…houses　have　wine…licences；　but　the
  maid　after　all　might　be　an　envious　baggage；　and　no　better　than　she
  should　be。　　But　what　was　now　to　be　done？　　Why；　clearly　make　the
  best　of　the　matter；　eat　the　chop　and　leave　the　sherry。　　So　I
  commenced　eating　the　chop；　which　was　by　this　time　nearly　cold。
  After　eating　a　few　morsels　I　looked　at　the　sherry：　　〃I　may　as　well
  take　a　glass；〃　said　I。　　So　with　a　wry　face　I　poured　myself　out　a
  glass。
  〃What　detestable　stuff！〃　said　I；　after　I　had　drunk　it。　　〃However；
  as　I　shall　have　to　pay　for　it　I　may　as　well　go　through　with　it。〃
  So　I　poured　myself　out　another　glass；　and　by　the　time　I　had
  finished　the　chop　I　had　finished　the　sherry　also。
  And　now　what　was　I　to　do　next？　　Why；　my　best　advice　seemed　to　be　to
  pay　my　bill　and　depart。　　But　I　had　promised　the　poet　to　patronize
  his　house；　and　had　by　mistake　ordered　and　despatched　a　pint　and
  chop　in　a　house　which　was　not　the　poet's。　　Should　I　now　go　to　his
  house　and　order　a　pint　and　chop　there？　　Decidedly　not！　　I　had
  patronised　a　house　which　I　believed　to　be　the　poet's；　if　I
  patronised　the　wrong　one；　the　fault　was　his；　not　mine　…　he　should
  have　been　more　explicit。　　I　had　performed　my　promise；　at　least　in
  intention。
  Perfectly　satisfied　with　the　conclusion　I　had　come　to；　I　rang　the
  bell。　　〃The　bill？〃　said　I　to　the　handmaid。
  〃Here　it　is！〃　said　she；　placing　a　strip　of　paper　in　my　hand。
  I　looked　at　the　bill；　and；　whether　moderate　or　immoderate；　paid　it
  with　a　smiling　countenance；　commanded　the　entertainment　highly；　and
  gave　the　damsel　something　handsome　for　her　trouble　in　waiting　on
  me。
  Reader；　please　to　bear　in　mind　that　as　all　bills　must　be　paid；　it
  is　much　more　comfortable　to　pay　them　with　a　smile　than　with　a
  frown；　and　that　it　is　much　better　by　giving　sixpence；　or　a　shilling
  to　a　poor　servant；　which　you　will　never　miss　at　the　year's　end；　to
  be　followed　from　the　door　of　an　inn　by　good　wishes；　than　by　giving
  nothing　to　be　pursued　by　cutting　silence；　or　the　yet　more　cutting
  Hm！
  〃Sir；〃　said　the　good…looking；　well…ribboned　damsel；　〃I　wish　you　a
  pleasant　journey；　and　whenever　you　please　again　to　honour　our
  establishment　with　your　presence；　both　my　master　and　myself　shall
  be　infinitely　obliged　to　you。〃
  CHAPTER　XXXIX
  Oats　and　Methodism　…　The　Little　Girl　…　Ty　Gwyn　…　Bird　of　the　Roof　…
  Purest　English　…　Railroads　…　Inconsistency　…　The　Boots。
  IT　might　be　about　four　in　the　afternoon　when　I　left　L…　bound　for
  Pen　Caer　Gybi；　or　Holyhead；　seventeen　miles　distant。　　I　reached　the
  top　of　the　hill　on　the　west　of　the　little　town；　and　then　walked
  briskly　forward。　　The　country　looked　poor　and　mean　…　on　my　right
  was　a　field　of　oats；　on　my　left　a　Methodist　chapel　…　oats　and
  Methodism！　what　better　symbols　of　poverty　and　meanness？
  I　went　onward　a　long　way；　the　weather　was　broiling　hot；　and　I　felt
  thirsty。　　On　the　top　of　a　long　ascent　stood　a　house　by　the
  roadside。　　I　went　to　the　door　and　knocked　…　no　answer　…　〃Oes　neb　yn
  y　ty？〃　said　I。
  〃Oes！〃　said　an　infantine　voice。
  I　opened　the　door　and　saw　a　little　girl。　　〃Have　you　any　water？〃
  said　I。
  〃No；〃　said　the　child；　〃but　I　have　this；〃　and　she　brought　me　some
  butter…milk　in　a　basin。　　I　just　tasted　it；　gave　the　child　a　penny
  and　blessed　her。
  〃Oes　genoch　tad？〃
  〃No；〃　said　she；　〃but　I　have　a　mam。〃　　Tad　in　mam；　blessed　sounds；　in
  all　languages　expressing　the　same　blessed　things。
  After　walking　for　some　hours　I　saw　a　tall　blue　hill　in　the　far
  distance　before　me。　　〃What　is　the　name　of　that　hill？〃　said　I　to　a
  woman　whom　I　met。
  〃Pen　Caer　Gybi；〃　she　replied。
  Soon　after　I　came　to　a　village　near　to　a　rocky　gully。　　On　inquiring
  the　name　of　the　village；　I　was　told　it　was　Llan　yr　Afon；　or　the
  church　of　the　river。　　I　passed　on；　the　country　was　neither　grand
  nor　pretty　…　it　exhibited　a　kind　of　wildness；　however；　which　did
  not　fail　to　interest　me　…　there　were　stones；　rocks　and　furze　in
  abundance。　　Turning　round　the　corner　of　a　hill；　I　observed　through
  the　mists　of　evening；　which　began　to　gather　about　me；　what　seemed
  to　be　rather　a　genteel　house　on　the　roadside；　on　my　left；　and　a
  little　way　behind　it　a　strange　kind　of　monticle；　on　which　I　thought
  I　observed　tall　upright　stones。　　Quickening　my　pace；　I　soon　came
  parallel　with　the　house；　which　as　I　drew　nigh；　ceased　to　look　like
  a　genteel　house；　and　exhibited　an　appearance　of　great　desolation。
  It　was　a　white；　or　rather　grey　structure　of　some　antiquity。　　It　was
  evidently　used　as　a　farm…house；　for　there　was　a　yard　adjoining　to
  it；　in　which　were　stacks　and　agricultural　implements。　　Observing
  two　men　in　the　yard；　I　went　in。　　They　were　respectable；　farm…
  looking　men；　between　forty　and　fifty；　one　had　on　a　coat　and　hat；
  the　other　a　cap　and　jacket。　　〃Good　evening；〃　I　said　in　Welsh。
  〃Good　evening；〃　they　replied　in　the　same　language；　looking
  inquiringly　at　me。
  〃What　is　the　name　of　this　place？〃　said　I。
  〃It　is　called　Ty　gwyn；〃　said　the　man　of　the　hat。
  〃On　account　of　its　colour；　I　suppose？〃　said　I。
  〃Just　so；〃　said　the　man　of　the　hat。
  〃It　looks　old；〃　said　I。
  〃And　it　is　old；〃　he　replied。　　〃In　the　time　of　the　Papists　it　was
  one　of　their　chapels。〃
  〃Does　it　belong　to　you？〃　I　demanded。
  〃Oh　no；　it　belongs　to　one　Mr　Sparrow　from　Liverpool。　　I　am　his
  bailiff；　and　this　man　is　a　carpenter　who　is　here　doing　a　job　for
  him。〃
  Here　ensued　a　pause；　which　was　broken　by　the　man　of　the　hat　saying
  in　English；　to　the　man　of　the　cap：
  〃Who　can　this　strange　fellow　be？　he　has　not　a　word　of　English；　and
  though　he　speaks　Welsh　his　Welsh　sounds　very　different　from　ours。
  Who　can　he　be？〃
  〃I　am　sure　I　don't　know；〃　said　the　other。
  〃I　know　who　he　is；〃　said　the　first；　〃he　comes　from　Llydaw；　or
  Armorica；　which　was　peopled　from　Britain　estalom；　and　where　I　am
  told　the　real　old　Welsh　language　is　still　spoken。〃
  〃I　think　I　heard　you　mention　the　word　Llydaw？〃　said　I；　to　the　man
  of　the　hat。
  〃Ah；〃　said　the　man　of　the　hat；　speaking　Welsh；　〃I　was　right　after
  all；　oh；　I　could　have　sworn　you　were　Llydaweg。　　Well；　how　are　the
  descendants　of　the　ancient　Britons　getting　on　in　Llydaw？〃
  〃They　are　getting　on　tolerably　well；〃　said　I；　〃when　I　last　saw
  them；　though　all　things　do　not　go　exactly　as　they　could　wish。〃
  〃Of　course　not；〃　said　he　of　the　hat。　　〃We　too　have　much　to　complain
  of　here；　the　lands　are　almost　entirely　taken　possession　of　by
  Saxons；　wherever　you　go　you　will　find　them　settled；　and　a　Saxon
  bird　of　the　roof　must　build　its　nest　in　Gwyn　dy。〃
  〃You　call　a　sparrow　in　your　Welsh　a　bird　of　the　roof；　do　you　not？〃
  said　I。
  〃We　do；〃　said　he　of　the　hat。　　〃You　speak　Welsh　very　well
  considering　you　were　not　born　in　Wales。　　It　is　really　surprising
  that　the　men　of　Llydaw　should　speak　the　iaith　so　pure　as　they　do。〃
  〃The　Welsh　when　they　went　over　there；〃　said　I；　〃took　effectual
  means　that　their　descendants　should　speak　good　Welsh；　if　all　tales
  be　true。〃
  〃What　means？〃　said　he　of　the　hat。
  〃Why；〃　said　I；　〃after　conquering　the　country　they　put　all　the　men
  to　death；　and　married　the　women；　but　before　a　child　was　born　they
  cut　out　all　the　women's　tongues；　so　that　the　only　language　the
  children　heard　when　they　were　born　was　pure　Cumraeg。　　What　do　you
  think　of　that？〃
  〃Why；　that　it　was　a　cute　trick；〃　said　he　of　the　hat。
  〃A　more　clever　trick　I　never　heard；〃　said　the　man　of　the　cap。
  〃Have　you　any　memorials　in　the　neighbourhood　of　the　old　Welsh？〃
  said　I。
  〃What　do　you　mean？〃　said　the　man　of　the　hat。
  〃Any　altars　of　the　Druids？〃　said　I；　〃any　stone　tables？〃
  〃None；〃　said　the　man　of　the　hat。
  〃What　may　those　stones　be？〃　said　I；　pointing　to　the　stones　which
  had　struck　my　attention。
  〃Mere　common　rocks；〃　said　the　man。
  〃May　I　go　and　examine　them？〃　said　I。
  〃Oh　yes！〃　said　he　of　the　hat；　〃and　we　will　go　with　you。〃
  We　went　to　the　stones；　which　were　indeed　common　rocks；　and　which
  when　I　reached　them　presented　quite　a　different　appearance　from
  that　which　they　presented　to　my　eye　when　I　viewed　them　from　afar。
  〃Are　there　many　altars　of　the　Druids　in　Llydaw？〃　said　the　man　of
  the　hat。
  〃Plenty；〃　said　I；　〃but　those　altars　are　older　than　the　time　of　the
  Welsh　colonists；　and　were　erected　by　the　old　Gauls。〃
  〃Well；〃　said　the　man　of　the　cap；　〃I　am　glad　I　have　seen　the　man　of
  Llydaw。〃
  〃Whom　do　you　call　a　man　of　Llydaw？〃　said　I。
  〃Whom　but　yourself？〃　said　he　of　the　hat。
  〃I　am　not　a　man　of　Llydaw；〃　said　I　in　English；　〃but　Norfolk；　where
  the　people　eat　the　best　dumplings　in　the　world；　and　speak　the
  purest　English。　　Now　a　thousand　thanks　for　your　civility。　　I　would
  have　some　more　chat　with　you；　but　night　is　coming