第 49 节
作者:随便看看      更新:2021-02-25 00:46      字数:9322
  In Penmynnydd of Anglesey。〃
  I reached Penmynnydd; a small village consisting of a few white
  houses and a mill。  The meaning of Penmynnydd is literally the top
  of a hill。  The village does not stand on a hill; but the church
  which is at some distance; stands on one; or rather on a hillock。
  And it is probable from the circumstance of the church standing on
  a hillock; that the parish derives its name。  Towards the church
  after a slight glance at the village; I proceeded with hasty steps;
  and was soon at the foot of the hillock。  A house; that of the
  clergyman; stands near the church; on the top of the hill。  I
  opened a gate; and entered a lane which seemed to lead up to the
  church。
  As I was passing some low buildings; probably offices pertaining to
  the house; a head was thrust from a doorway; which stared at me。
  It was a strange hirsute head; and probably looked more strange and
  hirsute than it naturally was; owing to its having a hairy cap upon
  it。
  〃Good day;〃 said I。
  〃Good day; sar;〃 said the head; and in a moment more a man of
  middle stature; about fifty; in hairy cap; shirt…sleeves; and green
  apron round his waist; stood before me。  He looked the beau…ideal
  of a servant of all work。
  〃Can I see the church?〃 said I。
  〃Ah; you want to see the church;〃 said honest Scrub。  〃Yes; sar!
  you shall see the church。  You go up road there past church … come
  to house; knock at door … say what you want … and nice little girl
  show you church。  Ah; you quite right to come and see church … fine
  tomb there and clebber man sleeping in it with his wife; clebber
  man that … Owen Tiddir; married great queen … dyn clebber iawn。〃
  Following the suggestions of the man of the hairy cap I went round
  the church and knocked at the door of the house; a handsome
  parsonage。  A nice little servant…girl presently made her
  appearance at the door; of whom I inquired whether I could see the
  church。
  〃Certainly; sir;〃 said she; 〃I will go for the key and accompany
  you。〃
  She fetched the key and away we went to the church。  It is a
  venerable chapel…like edifice; with a belfry towards the west; the
  roof sinking by two gradations; is lower at the eastern or altar
  end; than at the other。  The girl; unlocking the door; ushered me
  into the interior。
  〃Which is the tomb of Tudor?〃 said I to the pretty damsel。
  〃There it is; sir;〃 said she; pointing to the north side of the
  church; 〃there is the tomb of Owen Tudor。〃
  Beneath a low…roofed arch lay sculptured in stone on an altar tomb;
  the figures of a man and woman; that of the man in armour; that of
  the woman in graceful drapery。  The male figure lay next the wall。
  〃And you think;〃 said I to the girl; 〃that yonder figure is that of
  Owen Tudor?〃
  〃Yes; sir;〃 said the girl; 〃yon figure is that of Owen Tudor; the
  other is that of his wife; the great queen; both their bodies rest
  below。〃
  I forbore to say that the figures were not those of Owen Tudor and
  the great queen; his wife; and I forbore to say that their bodies
  did not rest in that church; nor anywhere in the neighbourhood; for
  I was unwilling to dispel a pleasing delusion。  The tomb is
  doubtless a tomb of one of the Tudor race; and of a gentle partner
  of his; but not of the Rose of Mona and Catherine of France。  Her
  bones rest in some corner of Westminster's noble abbey; his moulder
  amongst those of thousands of others; Yorkists and Lancastrians;
  under the surface of the plain; where Mortimer's Cross once stood;
  that plain on the eastern side of which meanders the murmuring Lug;
  that noble plain; where one of the hardest battles which ever
  blooded English soil was fought; where beautiful young Edward
  gained a crown; and old Owen lost a head; which when young had been
  the most beautiful of heads; which had gained for him the
  appellation of the Rose of Anglesey; and which had captivated the
  glances of the fair daughter of France; the widow of Monmouth's
  Harry; the immortal victor of Agincourt。
  Nevertheless; long did I stare at that tomb which though not that
  of the Rose of Mona and his queen; is certainly the tomb of some
  mighty one of the mighty race of Theodore。  Then saying something
  in Welsh to the pretty damsel; at which she started; and putting
  something into her hand; at which she curtseyed; I hurried out of
  the church。
  CHAPTER XXXVII
  Mental Excitation … Land of Poets … The Man in Grey … Drinking
  Healths … The Greatest Prydydd … Envy … Welshmen not Hogs …
  Gentlemanly Feeling … What Pursuit? … Tell him to Walk Up … Editor
  of the TIMES … Careful Wife … Departure。
  I REGAINED the high road by a short cut; which I discovered; across
  a field。  I proceeded rapidly along for some time。  My mind was
  very much excited:  I was in the birthplace of the mighty Tudors …
  I had just seen the tomb of one of them; I was also in the land of
  the bard; a country which had produced Gwalchmai who sang the
  triumphs of Owain; and him who had sung the Cowydd of Judgment;
  Gronwy Owen。  So no wonder I was excited。  On I went reciting
  bardic snatches connected with Anglesey。  At length I began
  repeating Black Robin's ode in praise of the island; or rather my
  own translation of it; executed more than thirty years before;
  which amongst others; contains the following lines:…
  〃Twelve sober men the muses woo;
  Twelve sober men in Anglesey;
  Dwelling at home; like patriots true;
  In reverence for Anglesey。〃
  〃Oh;〃 said I; after I had recited that stanza; 〃what would I not
  give to see one of those sober patriotic bards; or at least one of
  their legitimate successors; for by this time no doubt; the sober
  poets; mentioned by Black Robin; are dead。  That they left
  legitimate successors who can doubt? for Anglesey is never to be
  without bards。  Have we not the words; not of Robin the Black; but
  Huw the Red to that effect?
  〃'Brodir; gnawd ynddi prydydd;
  Heb ganu ni bu ni bydd。'
  〃That is:  a hospitable country; in which a poet is a thing of
  course。  It has never been and will never be without song。〃
  Here I became silent; and presently arrived at the side of a little
  dell or ravine; down which the road led; from east to west。  The
  northern and southern sides of this dell were precipitous。  Beneath
  the southern one stood a small cottage。  Just as I began to descend
  the eastern side; two men began to descend the opposite one; and it
  so happened that we met at the bottom of the dingle; just before
  the house; which bore a sign; and over the door of which was an
  inscription to the effect that ale was sold within。  They saluted
  me; I returned their salutation; and then we all three stood still;
  looking at one another。  One of the men was rather a tall figure;
  about forty; dressed in grey; or pepper…and…salt; with a cap of
  some kind on his head; his face was long and rather good…looking;
  though slightly pock…broken。  There was a peculiar gravity upon it。
  The other person was somewhat about sixty … he was much shorter
  than his companion; and much worse dressed … he wore a hat that had
  several holes in it; a dusty rusty black coat; much too large for
  him; ragged yellow velveteen breeches; indifferent fustian gaiters;
  and shoes; cobbled here and there; one of which had rather an ugly
  bulge by the side near the toes。  His mouth was exceedingly wide;
  and his nose remarkably long; its extremity of a deep purple; upon
  his features was a half…simple smile or leer; in his hand was a
  long stick。  After we had all taken a full view of one another I
  said in Welsh; addressing myself to the man in grey; 〃Pray may I
  take the liberty of asking the name of this place。〃
  〃I believe you are an Englishman; sir;〃 said the man in grey;
  speaking English; 〃I will therefore take the liberty of answering
  your question in the English tongue。  The name of this place is
  Dyffryn Gaint。〃
  〃Thank you;〃 said I; 〃you are quite right with regard to my being
  an Englishman; perhaps you are one yourself?〃
  〃Sir;〃 said the man in grey; 〃I have not the honour to be so。  I am
  a native of the small island in which we are。〃
  〃Small;〃 said I; 〃but famous; particularly for producing
  illustrious men。〃
  〃That's very true indeed; sir;〃 said the man in grey; drawing
  himself up; 〃it is particularly famous for producing illustrious
  men。〃
  〃There was Owen Tudor?〃 said I。
  〃Very true;〃 said the man in grey; 〃his tomb is in the church a
  little way from hence。〃
  〃Then;〃 said I; 〃there was Gronwy Owen; one of the greatest bards
  that ever lived。  Out of reverence to his genius I went yesterday
  to see the place of his birth。〃
  〃Sir;〃 said the man in grey; 〃I should be sorry to leave you
  without enjoying your conversation at some length。  In yonder house
  they sell good ale; perhaps you will not be offended if I ask you
  to drink some with me and my friend?〃
  〃You are very kind;〃 said I; 〃I am fond of good ale and fonder
  still of good company … suppose we go in?〃
  We went into the cottage; which was kept by a man and his wife;
  both of whom seemed to be perfectly well acquainted with my two new
  friends。  We sat down on stools; by a clean white tab