第 49 节
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In Penmynnydd of Anglesey。〃
I reached Penmynnydd; a small village consisting of a few white
houses and a mill。 The meaning of Penmynnydd is literally the top
of a hill。 The village does not stand on a hill; but the church
which is at some distance; stands on one; or rather on a hillock。
And it is probable from the circumstance of the church standing on
a hillock; that the parish derives its name。 Towards the church
after a slight glance at the village; I proceeded with hasty steps;
and was soon at the foot of the hillock。 A house; that of the
clergyman; stands near the church; on the top of the hill。 I
opened a gate; and entered a lane which seemed to lead up to the
church。
As I was passing some low buildings; probably offices pertaining to
the house; a head was thrust from a doorway; which stared at me。
It was a strange hirsute head; and probably looked more strange and
hirsute than it naturally was; owing to its having a hairy cap upon
it。
〃Good day;〃 said I。
〃Good day; sar;〃 said the head; and in a moment more a man of
middle stature; about fifty; in hairy cap; shirt…sleeves; and green
apron round his waist; stood before me。 He looked the beau…ideal
of a servant of all work。
〃Can I see the church?〃 said I。
〃Ah; you want to see the church;〃 said honest Scrub。 〃Yes; sar!
you shall see the church。 You go up road there past church … come
to house; knock at door … say what you want … and nice little girl
show you church。 Ah; you quite right to come and see church … fine
tomb there and clebber man sleeping in it with his wife; clebber
man that … Owen Tiddir; married great queen … dyn clebber iawn。〃
Following the suggestions of the man of the hairy cap I went round
the church and knocked at the door of the house; a handsome
parsonage。 A nice little servant…girl presently made her
appearance at the door; of whom I inquired whether I could see the
church。
〃Certainly; sir;〃 said she; 〃I will go for the key and accompany
you。〃
She fetched the key and away we went to the church。 It is a
venerable chapel…like edifice; with a belfry towards the west; the
roof sinking by two gradations; is lower at the eastern or altar
end; than at the other。 The girl; unlocking the door; ushered me
into the interior。
〃Which is the tomb of Tudor?〃 said I to the pretty damsel。
〃There it is; sir;〃 said she; pointing to the north side of the
church; 〃there is the tomb of Owen Tudor。〃
Beneath a low…roofed arch lay sculptured in stone on an altar tomb;
the figures of a man and woman; that of the man in armour; that of
the woman in graceful drapery。 The male figure lay next the wall。
〃And you think;〃 said I to the girl; 〃that yonder figure is that of
Owen Tudor?〃
〃Yes; sir;〃 said the girl; 〃yon figure is that of Owen Tudor; the
other is that of his wife; the great queen; both their bodies rest
below。〃
I forbore to say that the figures were not those of Owen Tudor and
the great queen; his wife; and I forbore to say that their bodies
did not rest in that church; nor anywhere in the neighbourhood; for
I was unwilling to dispel a pleasing delusion。 The tomb is
doubtless a tomb of one of the Tudor race; and of a gentle partner
of his; but not of the Rose of Mona and Catherine of France。 Her
bones rest in some corner of Westminster's noble abbey; his moulder
amongst those of thousands of others; Yorkists and Lancastrians;
under the surface of the plain; where Mortimer's Cross once stood;
that plain on the eastern side of which meanders the murmuring Lug;
that noble plain; where one of the hardest battles which ever
blooded English soil was fought; where beautiful young Edward
gained a crown; and old Owen lost a head; which when young had been
the most beautiful of heads; which had gained for him the
appellation of the Rose of Anglesey; and which had captivated the
glances of the fair daughter of France; the widow of Monmouth's
Harry; the immortal victor of Agincourt。
Nevertheless; long did I stare at that tomb which though not that
of the Rose of Mona and his queen; is certainly the tomb of some
mighty one of the mighty race of Theodore。 Then saying something
in Welsh to the pretty damsel; at which she started; and putting
something into her hand; at which she curtseyed; I hurried out of
the church。
CHAPTER XXXVII
Mental Excitation … Land of Poets … The Man in Grey … Drinking
Healths … The Greatest Prydydd … Envy … Welshmen not Hogs …
Gentlemanly Feeling … What Pursuit? … Tell him to Walk Up … Editor
of the TIMES … Careful Wife … Departure。
I REGAINED the high road by a short cut; which I discovered; across
a field。 I proceeded rapidly along for some time。 My mind was
very much excited: I was in the birthplace of the mighty Tudors …
I had just seen the tomb of one of them; I was also in the land of
the bard; a country which had produced Gwalchmai who sang the
triumphs of Owain; and him who had sung the Cowydd of Judgment;
Gronwy Owen。 So no wonder I was excited。 On I went reciting
bardic snatches connected with Anglesey。 At length I began
repeating Black Robin's ode in praise of the island; or rather my
own translation of it; executed more than thirty years before;
which amongst others; contains the following lines:…
〃Twelve sober men the muses woo;
Twelve sober men in Anglesey;
Dwelling at home; like patriots true;
In reverence for Anglesey。〃
〃Oh;〃 said I; after I had recited that stanza; 〃what would I not
give to see one of those sober patriotic bards; or at least one of
their legitimate successors; for by this time no doubt; the sober
poets; mentioned by Black Robin; are dead。 That they left
legitimate successors who can doubt? for Anglesey is never to be
without bards。 Have we not the words; not of Robin the Black; but
Huw the Red to that effect?
〃'Brodir; gnawd ynddi prydydd;
Heb ganu ni bu ni bydd。'
〃That is: a hospitable country; in which a poet is a thing of
course。 It has never been and will never be without song。〃
Here I became silent; and presently arrived at the side of a little
dell or ravine; down which the road led; from east to west。 The
northern and southern sides of this dell were precipitous。 Beneath
the southern one stood a small cottage。 Just as I began to descend
the eastern side; two men began to descend the opposite one; and it
so happened that we met at the bottom of the dingle; just before
the house; which bore a sign; and over the door of which was an
inscription to the effect that ale was sold within。 They saluted
me; I returned their salutation; and then we all three stood still;
looking at one another。 One of the men was rather a tall figure;
about forty; dressed in grey; or pepper…and…salt; with a cap of
some kind on his head; his face was long and rather good…looking;
though slightly pock…broken。 There was a peculiar gravity upon it。
The other person was somewhat about sixty … he was much shorter
than his companion; and much worse dressed … he wore a hat that had
several holes in it; a dusty rusty black coat; much too large for
him; ragged yellow velveteen breeches; indifferent fustian gaiters;
and shoes; cobbled here and there; one of which had rather an ugly
bulge by the side near the toes。 His mouth was exceedingly wide;
and his nose remarkably long; its extremity of a deep purple; upon
his features was a half…simple smile or leer; in his hand was a
long stick。 After we had all taken a full view of one another I
said in Welsh; addressing myself to the man in grey; 〃Pray may I
take the liberty of asking the name of this place。〃
〃I believe you are an Englishman; sir;〃 said the man in grey;
speaking English; 〃I will therefore take the liberty of answering
your question in the English tongue。 The name of this place is
Dyffryn Gaint。〃
〃Thank you;〃 said I; 〃you are quite right with regard to my being
an Englishman; perhaps you are one yourself?〃
〃Sir;〃 said the man in grey; 〃I have not the honour to be so。 I am
a native of the small island in which we are。〃
〃Small;〃 said I; 〃but famous; particularly for producing
illustrious men。〃
〃That's very true indeed; sir;〃 said the man in grey; drawing
himself up; 〃it is particularly famous for producing illustrious
men。〃
〃There was Owen Tudor?〃 said I。
〃Very true;〃 said the man in grey; 〃his tomb is in the church a
little way from hence。〃
〃Then;〃 said I; 〃there was Gronwy Owen; one of the greatest bards
that ever lived。 Out of reverence to his genius I went yesterday
to see the place of his birth。〃
〃Sir;〃 said the man in grey; 〃I should be sorry to leave you
without enjoying your conversation at some length。 In yonder house
they sell good ale; perhaps you will not be offended if I ask you
to drink some with me and my friend?〃
〃You are very kind;〃 said I; 〃I am fond of good ale and fonder
still of good company … suppose we go in?〃
We went into the cottage; which was kept by a man and his wife;
both of whom seemed to be perfectly well acquainted with my two new
friends。 We sat down on stools; by a clean white tab