第 44 节
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〃A strange errand;〃 I replied; 〃to look at the birth…place of a man
who has long been dead。〃
〃Do you come to seek for an inheritance?〃 said the man。
〃No;〃 said I。 〃Besides the man whose birth…place I came to see;
died poor; leaving nothing behind him but immortality。〃
〃Who was he?〃 said the miller。
〃Did you ever hear a sound of Gronwy Owen?〃 said I。
〃Frequently;〃 said the miller; 〃I have frequently heard a sound of
him。 He was born close by in a house yonder;〃 pointing to the
south。
〃Oh yes; gentleman;〃 said a nice…looking woman; who holding a
little child by the hand was come to the house…door; and was
eagerly listening; 〃we have frequently heard speak of Gronwy Owen;
there is much talk of him in these parts。〃
〃I am glad to hear it;〃 said I; 〃for I have feared that his name
would not be known here。〃
〃Pray; gentleman; walk in!〃 said the miller; 〃we are going to have
our afternoon's meal; and shall be rejoiced if you will join us。〃
〃Yes; do; gentleman;〃 said the miller's wife; for such the good
woman was; 〃and many a welcome shall you have。〃
I hesitated; and was about to excuse myself。
〃Don't refuse; gentleman!〃 said both; 〃surely you are not too proud
to sit down with us?〃
〃I am afraid I shall only cause you trouble;〃 said I。
〃Dim blinder; no trouble;〃 exclaimed both at once; 〃pray do walk
in!〃
I entered the house; and the kitchen; parlour; or whatever it was;
a nice little room with a slate floor。 They made me sit down at a
table by the window; which was already laid for a meal。 There was
a clean cloth upon it; a tea…pot; cups and saucers; a large plate
of bread…and…butter; and a plate; on which were a few very thin
slices of brown; watery cheese。
My good friends took their seats; the wife poured out tea for the
stranger and her husband; helped us both to bread…and…butter and
the watery cheese; then took care of herself。 Before; however; I
could taste the tea; the wife; seeming to recollect herself;
started up; and hurrying to a cupboard; produced a basin full of
snow…white lump sugar; and taking the spoon out of my hand; placed
two of the largest lumps in my cup; though she helped neither her
husband nor herself; the sugar…basin being probably only kept for
grand occasions。
My eyes filled with tears; for in the whole course of my life I had
never experienced so much genuine hospitality。 Honour to the
miller of Mona and his wife; and honour to the kind hospitable
Celts in general! How different is the reception of this despised
race of the wandering stranger from that of …。 However; I am a
Saxon myself; and the Saxons have no doubt their virtues; a pity
that they should be all uncouth and ungracious ones!
I asked my kind host his name。
〃John Jones;〃 he replied; 〃Melinydd of Llanfair。〃
〃Is the mill which you work your own property?〃 I inquired。
〃No;〃 he answered; 〃I rent it of a person who lives close by。〃
〃And how happens it;〃 said I; 〃that you speak no English?〃
〃How should it happen;〃 said he; 〃that I should speak any? I have
never been far from here; my wife who has lived at service at
Liverpool can speak some。〃
〃Can you read poetry?〃 said I。
〃I can read the psalms and hymns that they sing at our chapel;〃 he
replied。
〃Then you are not of the Church?〃 said I。
〃I am not;〃 said the miller; 〃I am a Methodist。〃
〃Can you read the poetry of Gronwy Owen?〃 said I。
〃I cannot;〃 said the miller; 〃that is with any comfort; his poetry
is in the ancient Welsh measures; which make poetry so difficult
that few can understand it。〃
〃I can understand poetry in those measures;〃 said I。
〃And how much time did you spend;〃 said the miller; 〃before you
could understand the poetry of the measures?〃
〃Three years;〃 said I。
The miller laughed。
〃I could not have afforded all that time;〃 said he; 〃to study the
songs of Gronwy。 However; it is well that some people should have
time to study them。 He was a great poet as I have been told; and
is the glory of our land … but he was unfortunate; I have read his
life in Welsh and part of his letters; and in doing so have shed
tears。〃
〃Has his house any particular name?〃 said I。
〃It is called sometimes Ty Gronwy;〃 said the miller; 〃but more
frequently Tafarn Goch。〃
〃The Red Tavern?〃 said I。 〃How is it that so many of your places
are called Goch? there is Pentraeth Goch; there is Saint Pedair
Goch; and here at Llanfair is Tafarn Goch。〃
The miller laughed。
〃It will take a wiser man than I;〃 said he; 〃to answer that
question。〃
The repast over I rose up; gave my host thanks; and said; 〃I will
now leave you; and hunt up things connected with Gronwy。〃
〃And where will you find a lletty for night; gentleman?〃 said the
miller's wife。 〃This is a poor place; but if you will make use of
our home you are welcome。〃
〃I need not trouble you;〃 said I; 〃I return this night to Pentraeth
Goch where I shall sleep。〃
〃Well;〃 said the miller; 〃whilst you are at Llanfair I will
accompany you about。 Where shall we go to first?〃
〃Where is the church?〃 said I。 〃I should like to see the church
where Gronwy worshipped God as a boy。〃
〃The church is at some distance;〃 said the man; 〃it is past my
mill; and as I want to go to the mill for a moment; it will be
perhaps well to go and see the church; before we go to the house of
Gronwy。〃
I shook the miller's wife by the hand; patted a little yellow…
haired girl of about two years old on the head; who during the
whole time of the meal had sat on the slate floor looking up into
my face; and left the house with honest Jones。
We directed our course to the mill; which lay some way down a
declivity; towards the sea。 Near the mill was a comfortable…
looking house; which my friend told me belonged to the proprietor
of the mill。 A rustic…looking man stood in the mill…yard; who he
said was the proprietor。 The honest miller went into the mill; and
the rustic…looking proprietor greeted me in Welsh; and asked me if
I was come to buy hogs。
〃No;〃 said I; 〃I am come to see the birth…place of Gronwy Owen;〃 he
stared at me for a moment; then seemed to muse; and at last walked
away saying; 〃Ah! a great man。〃
The miller presently joined me; and we proceeded farther down the
hill。 Our way lay between stone walls; and sometimes over them。
The land was moory and rocky; with nothing grand about it; and the
miller described it well when he said it was tir gwael … mean land。
In about a quarter of an hour we came to the churchyard into which
we got; the gate being locked; by clambering over the wall。
The church stands low down the descent; not far distant from the
sea。 A little brook; called in the language of the country a frwd;
washes its yard…wall on the south。 It is a small edifice with no
spire; but to the south…west there is a little stone erection
rising from the roof; in which hangs a bell … there is a small
porch looking to the south。 With respect to its interior I can say
nothing; the door being locked。 It is probably like the outside;
simple enough。 It seemed to be about two hundred and fifty years
old; and to be kept in tolerable repair。 Simple as the edifice
was; I looked with great emotion upon it; and could I do else; when
I reflected that the greatest British poet of the last century had
worshipped God within it; with his poor father and mother; when a
boy?
I asked the miller whether he could point out to me any tombs or
grave…stones of Gronwy's family; but he told me that he was not
aware of any。 On looking about I found the name of Owen in the
inscription on the slate slab of a respectable…looking modern tomb;
on the north…east side of the church。 The inscription was as
follows:
Er cof am JANE OWEN
Gwraig Edward Owen;
Monachlog Llanfair Mathafam eithaf;
A fu farw Chwefror 28 1842
Yn 51 Oed。
I。E。 〃To the memory of JANE OWEN Wife of Edward Owen; of the
monastery of St Mary of farther Mathafarn; who died February 28;
1842; aged fifty…one。〃
Whether the Edward Owen mentioned here was any relation to the
great Gronwy; I had no opportunity of learning。 I asked the miller
what was meant by the monastery; and he told that it was the name
of a building to the north…east near the sea; which had once been a
monastery but had been converted into a farm…house; though it still
retained its original name。 〃May all monasteries be converted into
farm…houses;〃 said I; 〃and may they still retain their original
names in mockery of popery!〃
Having seen all I could well see of the church and its precincts I
departed with my kind guide。 After we had retraced our steps some
way; we came to some stepping…stones on the side of a wall; and the
miller pointing to them said:
〃The nearest way to the house of Gronwy will be over the llamfa。〃
I was now become ashamed of keeping the worthy fellow from his
business; and begged him to return to his mill。 He refused to
leave me; at first; but on my pressing him to do so; and on my
telling him that I could find the way to the house of Gronwy very
well by myself; he consented。 We shook hands