第 41 节
作者:随便看看      更新:2021-02-25 00:46      字数:9322
  Pointing with my finger to the head of Snowdon towering a long way
  from us in the direction of the east; I said to Henrietta:…
  〃Dacw Eryri; yonder is Snowdon。  Let us try to get to the top。  The
  Welsh have a proverb:  'It is easy to say yonder is Snowdon; but
  not so easy to ascend it。'  Therefore I would advise you to brace
  up your nerves and sinews for the attempt。〃
  We then commenced the ascent; arm…in…arm; followed by the lad; I
  singing at the stretch of my voice a celebrated Welsh stanza; in
  which the proverb about Snowdon is given; embellished with a fine
  moral; and which may thus be rendered:…
  〃Easy to say; 'Behold Eryri;'
  But difficult to reach its head;
  Easy for him whose hopes are cheery
  To bid the wretch be comforted。〃
  We were far from being the only visitors to the hill this day;
  groups of people; or single individuals; might be seen going up or
  descending the path as far as the eye could reach。  The path was
  remarkably good; and for some way the ascent was anything but
  steep。  On our left was the Vale of Llanberis; and on our other
  side a broad hollow; or valley of Snowdon; beyond which were two
  huge hills forming part of the body of the grand mountain; the
  lowermost of which our guide told me was called Moel Elia; and the
  uppermost Moel y Cynghorion。  On we went until we had passed both
  these hills; and come to the neighbourhood of a great wall of rocks
  constituting the upper region of Snowdon; and where the real
  difficulty of the ascent commences。  Feeling now rather out of
  breath we sat down on a little knoll with our faces to the south;
  having a small lake near us; on our left hand; which lay dark and
  deep; just under the great wall。
  Here we sat for some time resting and surveying the scene which
  presented itself to us; the principal object of which was the
  north…eastern side of the mighty Moel y Cynghorion; across the wide
  hollow or valley; which it overhangs in the shape of a sheer
  precipice some five hundred feet in depth。  Struck by the name of
  Moel y Cynghorion; which in English signifies the hill of the
  counsellors; I enquired of our guide why the hill was so called;
  but as he could afford me no information on the point I presumed
  that it was either called the hill of the counsellors from the
  Druids having held high consultation on its top; in time of old; or
  from the unfortunate Llewelyn having consulted there with his
  chieftains; whilst his army lay encamped in the vale below。
  Getting up we set about surmounting what remained of the ascent。
  The path was now winding and much more steep than it had hitherto
  been。  I was at one time apprehensive that my gentle companion
  would be obliged to give over the attempt; the gallant girl;
  however; persevered; and in little more than twenty minutes from
  the time when we arose from our resting…place under the crags; we
  stood; safe and sound; though panting; upon the very top of
  Snowdon; the far…famed Wyddfa。
  The Wyddfa is about thirty feet in diameter and is surrounded on
  three sides by a low wall。  In the middle of it is a rude cabin; in
  which refreshments are sold; and in which a person resides through
  the year; though there are few or no visitors to the hill's top;
  except during the months of summer。  Below on all sides are
  frightful precipices except on the side of the west。  Towards the
  east it looks perpendicularly into the dyffrin or vale; nearly a
  mile below; from which to the gazer it is at all times an object of
  admiration; of wonder and almost of fear。
  There we stood on the Wyddfa; in a cold bracing atmosphere; though
  the day was almost stiflingly hot in the regions from which we had
  ascended。  There we stood enjoying a scene inexpressibly grand;
  comprehending a considerable part of the mainland of Wales; the
  whole of Anglesey; a faint glimpse of part of Cumberland; the Irish
  Channel; and what might be either a misty creation or the shadowy
  outline of the hills of Ireland。  Peaks and pinnacles and huge
  moels stood up here and there; about us and below us; partly in
  glorious light; partly in deep shade。  Manifold were the objects
  which we saw from the brow of Snowdon; but of all the objects which
  we saw; those which filled us with delight and admiration; were
  numerous lakes and lagoons; which; like sheets of ice or polished
  silver; lay reflecting the rays of the sun in the deep valleys at
  his feet。
  〃Here;〃 said I to Henrietta; 〃you are on the top crag of Snowdon;
  which the Welsh consider; and perhaps with justice; to be the most
  remarkable crag in the world; which is mentioned in many of their
  old wild romantic tales; and some of the noblest of their poems;
  amongst others in the 'Day of Judgment;' by the illustrious Goronwy
  Owen; where it is brought forward in the following manner:
  〃'Ail i'r ar ael Eryri;
  Cyfartal hoewal a hi。'
  〃'The brow of Snowdon shall be levelled with the ground; and the
  eddying waters shall murmur round it。'
  〃You are now on the top crag of Snowdon; generally termed Y Wyddfa;
  (6) which means a conspicuous place or tumulus; and which is
  generally in winter covered with snow; about which snow there are
  in the Welsh language two curious englynion or stanzas consisting
  entirely of vowels with the exception of one consonant; namely the
  letter R。
  〃'Oer yw'r Eira ar Eryri; … o'ryw
  Ar awyr i rewi;
  Oer yw'r ia ar riw 'r ri;
  A'r Eira oer yw 'Ryri。
  〃'O Ri y'Ryri yw'r oera; … o'r ar;
  Ar oror wir arwa;
  O'r awyr a yr Eira;
  O'i ryw i roi rew a'r ia。'
  〃'Cold is the snow on Snowdon's brow
  It makes the air so chill;
  For cold; I trow; there is no snow
  Like that of Snowdon's hill。
  〃'A hill most chill is Snowdon's hill;
  And wintry is his brow;
  From Snowdon's hill the breezes chill
  Can freeze the very snow。'〃
  Such was the harangue which I uttered on the top of Snowdon; to
  which Henrietta listened with attention; three or four English; who
  stood nigh; with grinning scorn; and a Welsh gentleman with
  considerable interest。  The latter coming forward shook me by the
  hand exclaiming …
  〃Wyt ti Lydaueg?〃
  〃I am not a Llydauan;〃 said I; 〃I wish I was; or anything but what
  I am; one of a nation amongst whom any knowledge save what relates
  to money…making and over…reaching is looked upon as a disgrace。  I
  am ashamed to say that I am an Englishman。〃
  I then returned his shake of the hand; and bidding Henrietta and
  the guide follow me; went into the cabin; where Henrietta had some
  excellent coffee and myself and the guide a bottle of tolerable
  ale; very much refreshed we set out on our return。
  A little way from the top; on the right…hand side as you descend;
  there is a very steep path running down in a zigzag manner to the
  pass which leads to Capel Curig。  Up this path it is indeed a task
  of difficulty to ascend to the Wyddfa; the one by which we mounted
  being comparatively easy。  On Henrietta's pointing out to me a
  plant; which grew on a crag by the side of this path some way down;
  I was about to descend in order to procure it for her; when our
  guide springing forward darted down the path with the agility of a
  young goat; in less than a minute returned with it in his hand and
  presented it gracefully to the dear girl; who on examining it said
  it belonged to a species of which she had long been desirous of
  possessing a specimen。  Nothing material occurred in our descent to
  Llanberis; where my wife was anxiously awaiting us。  The ascent and
  descent occupied four hours。  About ten o'clock at night we again
  found ourselves at Bangor。
  CHAPTER XXX
  Gronwy Owen … Struggles of Genius … The Stipend。
  THE day after our expedition to Snowdon I and my family parted;
  they returning by railroad to Chester and Llangollen whilst I took
  a trip into Anglesey to visit the birth…place of the great poet
  Goronwy Owen; whose works I had read with enthusiasm in my early
  years。
  Goronwy or Gronwy Owen; was born in the year 1722; at a place
  called Llanfair Mathafarn Eithaf in Anglesey。  He was the eldest of
  three children。  His parents were peasants and so exceedingly poor
  that they were unable to send him to school。  Even; however; when
  an unlettered child he gave indications that he was visited by the
  awen or muse。  At length the celebrated Lewis Morris chancing to be
  at Llanfair became acquainted with the boy; and struck with his
  natural talents; determined that he should have all the benefit
  which education could bestow。  He accordingly; at his own expense
  sent him to school at Beaumaris; where he displayed a remarkable
  aptitude for the acquisition of learning。  He subsequently sent him
  to Jesus College; Oxford; and supported him there whilst studying
  for the church。  Whilst at Jesus; Gronwy distinguished himself as a
  Greek and Latin scholar; and gave such proofs of poetical talent in
  his native language; that he was looked upon by his countrymen of
  that Welsh college as the rising Bard of the age。  After completing
  his collegiate course he returned to Wales; where he was ordained a
  minister of the Church in the year 1745。  The next seven years of
  his life were a se