第 37 节
作者:随便看看      更新:2021-02-25 00:46      字数:9321
  denial。
  After drinking some tolerably good ale in the public house I again
  started。  As I left the village a clock struck eight。  The evening
  was delightfully cool; but it soon became nearly dark。  I passed
  under high rocks; by houses and by groves; in which nightingales
  were singing; to listen to whose entrancing melody I more than once
  stopped。  On coming to a town; lighted up and thronged with people;
  I asked one of a group of young fellows its name。
  〃Bethesda;〃 he replied。
  〃A scriptural name;〃 said I。
  〃Is it?〃 said he; 〃well; if its name is scriptural the manners of
  its people are by no means so。〃
  A little way beyond the town a man came out of a cottage and walked
  beside me。  He had a basket in his hand。  I quickened my pace; but
  he was a tremendous walker; and kept up with me。  On we went side
  by side for more than a mile without speaking a word。  At length;
  putting out my legs in genuine Barclay fashion; I got before him
  about ten yards; then turning round laughed and spoke to him in
  English。  He too laughed and spoke; but in Welsh。  We now went on
  like brothers; conversing; but always walking at great speed。  I
  learned from him that he was a market…gardener living at Bangor;
  and that Bangor was three miles off。  On the stars shining out we
  began to talk about them。
  Pointing to Charles's Wain I said; 〃A good star for travellers。〃
  Whereupon pointing to the North star; he said:
  〃I forwyr da iawn … a good star for mariners。〃
  We passed a large house on our left。
  〃Who lives there?〃 said I。
  〃Mr Smith;〃 he replied。  〃It is called Plas Newydd; milltir genom
  etto … we have yet another mile。〃
  In ten minutes we were at Bangor。  I asked him where the Albion
  Hotel was。
  〃I will show it you;〃 said he; and so he did。
  As we came under it I heard the voice of my wife; for she; standing
  on a balcony and distinguishing me by the lamplight; called out。  I
  shook hands with the kind six…mile…an…hour market…gardener; and
  going into the inn found my wife and daughter; who rejoiced to see
  me。  We presently had tea。
  CHAPTER XXVII
  Bangor … Edmund Price … The Bridges … Bookselling … Future Pope …
  Wild Irish … Southey。
  BANGOR is seated on the spurs of certain high hills near the Menai;
  a strait separating Mona or Anglesey from Caernarvonshire。  It was
  once a place of Druidical worship; of which fact; even without the
  testimony of history and tradition; the name which signifies 〃upper
  circle〃 would be sufficient evidence。  On the decay of Druidism a
  town sprang up on the site and in the neighbourhood of the 〃upper
  circle;〃 in which in the sixth century a convent or university was
  founded by Deiniol; who eventually became Bishop of Bangor。  This
  Deiniol was the son of Deiniol Vawr; a zealous Christian prince who
  founded the convent of Bangor Is Coed; or Bangor beneath the wood
  in Flintshire; which was destroyed; and its inmates almost to a man
  put to the sword by Ethelbert; a Saxon king; and his barbarian
  followers at the instigation of the monk Austin; who hated the
  brethren because they refused to acknowledge the authority of the
  Pope; whose delegate he was in Britain。  There were in all three
  Bangors; the one at Is Coed; another in Powis; and this
  Caernarvonshire Bangor; which was generally termed Bangor Vawr or
  Bangor the great。  The two first Bangors have fallen into utter
  decay; but Bangor Vawr is still a bishop's see; boasts of a small
  but venerable cathedral; and contains a population of above eight
  thousand souls。
  Two very remarkable men have at different periods conferred a kind
  of lustre upon Bangor by residing in it; Taliesin in the old; and
  Edmund Price in comparatively modern time。  Both of them were
  poets。  Taliesin flourished about the end of the fifth century; and
  for the sublimity of his verses was for many centuries called by
  his countrymen the Bardic King。  Amongst his pieces is one
  generally termed 〃The Prophecy of Taliesin;〃 which announced long
  before it happened the entire subjugation of Britain by the Saxons;
  and which is perhaps one of the most stirring pieces of poetry ever
  produced。  Edmund Price flourished during the time of Elizabeth。
  He was archdeacon of Merionethshire; but occasionally resided at
  Bangor for the benefit of his health。  Besides being one of the
  best Welsh poets of his age he was a man of extraordinary learning;
  possessing a thorough knowledge of no less than eight languages。
  The greater part of his compositions; however clever and elegant;
  are; it must be confessed; such as do little credit to the pen of
  an ecclesiastic; being bitter poignant satires; which were the
  cause of much pain and misery to individuals; one of his works;
  however; is not only of a kind quite consistent with his sacred
  calling; but has been a source of considerable blessing。  To him
  the Cambrian Church is indebted for the version of the Psalms;
  which for the last two centuries it has been in the habit of using。
  Previous to the version of the Archdeacon a translation of the
  Psalms had been made into Welsh by William Middleton; an officer in
  the naval service of Queen Elizabeth; in the four…and…twenty
  alliterative measures of the ancients bards。  It was elegant and
  even faithful; but far beyond the comprehension of people in
  general; and consequently by no means fitted for the use of
  churches; though intended for that purpose by the author; a sincere
  Christian; though a warrior。  Avoiding the error into which his
  predecessor had fallen; the Archdeacon made use of a measure
  intelligible to people of every degree; in which alliteration is
  not observed; and which is called by the Welsh y mesur cyffredin;
  or the common measure。  His opinion of the four…and…twenty measures
  the Archdeacon has given to the world in four cowydd lines to the
  following effect:
  〃I've read the master…pieces great
  Of languages no less than eight;
  But ne'er have found a woof of song
  So strict as that of Cambria's tongue。〃
  After breakfast on the morning subsequent to my arrival; Henrietta
  and I roamed about the town; and then proceeded to view the bridges
  which lead over the strait to Anglesey。  One; for common traffic;
  is a most beautiful suspension bridge completed in 1820; the result
  of the mental and manual labours of the ingenious Telford; the
  other is a tubular railroad bridge; a wonderful structure; no
  doubt; but anything but graceful。  We remained for some time on the
  first bridge; admiring the scenery; and were not a little
  delighted; as we stood leaning over the principal arch; to see a
  proud vessel pass beneath us in full sail。
  Satiated with gazing we passed into Anglesey; and making our way to
  the tubular bridge; which is to the west of the suspension one;
  entered one of its passages and returned to the main land。
  The air was exceedingly hot and sultry; and on coming to a stone
  bench; beneath a shady wall; we both sat down; panting; on one end
  of it; as we were resting ourselves; a shabby…looking man with a
  bundle of books came and seated himself at the other end; placing
  his bundle beside him; then taking out from his pocket a dirty red
  handkerchief; he wiped his face; which was bathed in perspiration;
  and ejaculated:  〃By Jasus; it is blazing hot!〃
  〃Very hot; my friend;〃 said I; 〃have you travelled far to…day?〃
  〃I have not; your hanner; I have been just walking about the dirty
  town trying to sell my books。〃
  〃Have you been successful?〃
  〃I have not; your hanner; only three pence have I taken this
  blessed day。〃
  〃What do your books treat of?〃
  〃Why; that is more than I can tell your hanner; my trade is to sell
  the books not to read them。  Would your hanner like to look at
  them?〃
  〃Oh dear no;〃 said I; 〃I have long been tired of books; I have had
  enough of them。〃
  〃I daresay; your hanner; from the state of your hanner's eyes I
  should say as much; they look so weak … picking up learning has
  ruined your hanner's sight。〃
  〃May I ask;〃 said I; 〃from what country you are?〃
  〃Sure your hanner may; and it is a civil answer you will get from
  Michael Sullivan。  It is from ould Ireland I am; from Castlebar in
  the county Mayo。〃
  〃And how came you into Wales?〃
  〃From the hope of bettering my condition; your hanner; and a
  foolish hope it was。〃
  〃You have not bettered your condition; then?〃
  〃I have not; your hanner; for I suffer quite as much hunger and
  thirst as ever I did in ould Ireland。〃
  〃Did you sell books in Ireland?〃
  〃I did nat; yer hanner; I made buttons and clothes … that is I
  pieced them。  I was several trades in ould Ireland; your hanner;
  but none of them answering; I came over here。〃
  〃Where you commenced book…selling?〃 said I。
  〃I did nat; your hanner。  I first sold laces; and then I sold
  loocifers; and then something else; I have followed several trades
  in Wales; your hanner; at last I got into the book…selling trade;
  in which I now am。〃
  〃And it answers; I suppose; as badly as the others?〃
  〃Just as badly; your hanner; divil a bit better。〃
  〃I suppose you never beg?〃
  〃Your hanner may say that; I was always too