第 37 节
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denial。
After drinking some tolerably good ale in the public house I again
started。 As I left the village a clock struck eight。 The evening
was delightfully cool; but it soon became nearly dark。 I passed
under high rocks; by houses and by groves; in which nightingales
were singing; to listen to whose entrancing melody I more than once
stopped。 On coming to a town; lighted up and thronged with people;
I asked one of a group of young fellows its name。
〃Bethesda;〃 he replied。
〃A scriptural name;〃 said I。
〃Is it?〃 said he; 〃well; if its name is scriptural the manners of
its people are by no means so。〃
A little way beyond the town a man came out of a cottage and walked
beside me。 He had a basket in his hand。 I quickened my pace; but
he was a tremendous walker; and kept up with me。 On we went side
by side for more than a mile without speaking a word。 At length;
putting out my legs in genuine Barclay fashion; I got before him
about ten yards; then turning round laughed and spoke to him in
English。 He too laughed and spoke; but in Welsh。 We now went on
like brothers; conversing; but always walking at great speed。 I
learned from him that he was a market…gardener living at Bangor;
and that Bangor was three miles off。 On the stars shining out we
began to talk about them。
Pointing to Charles's Wain I said; 〃A good star for travellers。〃
Whereupon pointing to the North star; he said:
〃I forwyr da iawn … a good star for mariners。〃
We passed a large house on our left。
〃Who lives there?〃 said I。
〃Mr Smith;〃 he replied。 〃It is called Plas Newydd; milltir genom
etto … we have yet another mile。〃
In ten minutes we were at Bangor。 I asked him where the Albion
Hotel was。
〃I will show it you;〃 said he; and so he did。
As we came under it I heard the voice of my wife; for she; standing
on a balcony and distinguishing me by the lamplight; called out。 I
shook hands with the kind six…mile…an…hour market…gardener; and
going into the inn found my wife and daughter; who rejoiced to see
me。 We presently had tea。
CHAPTER XXVII
Bangor … Edmund Price … The Bridges … Bookselling … Future Pope …
Wild Irish … Southey。
BANGOR is seated on the spurs of certain high hills near the Menai;
a strait separating Mona or Anglesey from Caernarvonshire。 It was
once a place of Druidical worship; of which fact; even without the
testimony of history and tradition; the name which signifies 〃upper
circle〃 would be sufficient evidence。 On the decay of Druidism a
town sprang up on the site and in the neighbourhood of the 〃upper
circle;〃 in which in the sixth century a convent or university was
founded by Deiniol; who eventually became Bishop of Bangor。 This
Deiniol was the son of Deiniol Vawr; a zealous Christian prince who
founded the convent of Bangor Is Coed; or Bangor beneath the wood
in Flintshire; which was destroyed; and its inmates almost to a man
put to the sword by Ethelbert; a Saxon king; and his barbarian
followers at the instigation of the monk Austin; who hated the
brethren because they refused to acknowledge the authority of the
Pope; whose delegate he was in Britain。 There were in all three
Bangors; the one at Is Coed; another in Powis; and this
Caernarvonshire Bangor; which was generally termed Bangor Vawr or
Bangor the great。 The two first Bangors have fallen into utter
decay; but Bangor Vawr is still a bishop's see; boasts of a small
but venerable cathedral; and contains a population of above eight
thousand souls。
Two very remarkable men have at different periods conferred a kind
of lustre upon Bangor by residing in it; Taliesin in the old; and
Edmund Price in comparatively modern time。 Both of them were
poets。 Taliesin flourished about the end of the fifth century; and
for the sublimity of his verses was for many centuries called by
his countrymen the Bardic King。 Amongst his pieces is one
generally termed 〃The Prophecy of Taliesin;〃 which announced long
before it happened the entire subjugation of Britain by the Saxons;
and which is perhaps one of the most stirring pieces of poetry ever
produced。 Edmund Price flourished during the time of Elizabeth。
He was archdeacon of Merionethshire; but occasionally resided at
Bangor for the benefit of his health。 Besides being one of the
best Welsh poets of his age he was a man of extraordinary learning;
possessing a thorough knowledge of no less than eight languages。
The greater part of his compositions; however clever and elegant;
are; it must be confessed; such as do little credit to the pen of
an ecclesiastic; being bitter poignant satires; which were the
cause of much pain and misery to individuals; one of his works;
however; is not only of a kind quite consistent with his sacred
calling; but has been a source of considerable blessing。 To him
the Cambrian Church is indebted for the version of the Psalms;
which for the last two centuries it has been in the habit of using。
Previous to the version of the Archdeacon a translation of the
Psalms had been made into Welsh by William Middleton; an officer in
the naval service of Queen Elizabeth; in the four…and…twenty
alliterative measures of the ancients bards。 It was elegant and
even faithful; but far beyond the comprehension of people in
general; and consequently by no means fitted for the use of
churches; though intended for that purpose by the author; a sincere
Christian; though a warrior。 Avoiding the error into which his
predecessor had fallen; the Archdeacon made use of a measure
intelligible to people of every degree; in which alliteration is
not observed; and which is called by the Welsh y mesur cyffredin;
or the common measure。 His opinion of the four…and…twenty measures
the Archdeacon has given to the world in four cowydd lines to the
following effect:
〃I've read the master…pieces great
Of languages no less than eight;
But ne'er have found a woof of song
So strict as that of Cambria's tongue。〃
After breakfast on the morning subsequent to my arrival; Henrietta
and I roamed about the town; and then proceeded to view the bridges
which lead over the strait to Anglesey。 One; for common traffic;
is a most beautiful suspension bridge completed in 1820; the result
of the mental and manual labours of the ingenious Telford; the
other is a tubular railroad bridge; a wonderful structure; no
doubt; but anything but graceful。 We remained for some time on the
first bridge; admiring the scenery; and were not a little
delighted; as we stood leaning over the principal arch; to see a
proud vessel pass beneath us in full sail。
Satiated with gazing we passed into Anglesey; and making our way to
the tubular bridge; which is to the west of the suspension one;
entered one of its passages and returned to the main land。
The air was exceedingly hot and sultry; and on coming to a stone
bench; beneath a shady wall; we both sat down; panting; on one end
of it; as we were resting ourselves; a shabby…looking man with a
bundle of books came and seated himself at the other end; placing
his bundle beside him; then taking out from his pocket a dirty red
handkerchief; he wiped his face; which was bathed in perspiration;
and ejaculated: 〃By Jasus; it is blazing hot!〃
〃Very hot; my friend;〃 said I; 〃have you travelled far to…day?〃
〃I have not; your hanner; I have been just walking about the dirty
town trying to sell my books。〃
〃Have you been successful?〃
〃I have not; your hanner; only three pence have I taken this
blessed day。〃
〃What do your books treat of?〃
〃Why; that is more than I can tell your hanner; my trade is to sell
the books not to read them。 Would your hanner like to look at
them?〃
〃Oh dear no;〃 said I; 〃I have long been tired of books; I have had
enough of them。〃
〃I daresay; your hanner; from the state of your hanner's eyes I
should say as much; they look so weak … picking up learning has
ruined your hanner's sight。〃
〃May I ask;〃 said I; 〃from what country you are?〃
〃Sure your hanner may; and it is a civil answer you will get from
Michael Sullivan。 It is from ould Ireland I am; from Castlebar in
the county Mayo。〃
〃And how came you into Wales?〃
〃From the hope of bettering my condition; your hanner; and a
foolish hope it was。〃
〃You have not bettered your condition; then?〃
〃I have not; your hanner; for I suffer quite as much hunger and
thirst as ever I did in ould Ireland。〃
〃Did you sell books in Ireland?〃
〃I did nat; yer hanner; I made buttons and clothes … that is I
pieced them。 I was several trades in ould Ireland; your hanner;
but none of them answering; I came over here。〃
〃Where you commenced book…selling?〃 said I。
〃I did nat; your hanner。 I first sold laces; and then I sold
loocifers; and then something else; I have followed several trades
in Wales; your hanner; at last I got into the book…selling trade;
in which I now am。〃
〃And it answers; I suppose; as badly as the others?〃
〃Just as badly; your hanner; divil a bit better。〃
〃I suppose you never beg?〃
〃Your hanner may say that; I was always too