第 31 节
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in these parts; before; however; I could do so he turned down a
road to the right which led towards a small bridge; and saying that
was his way home; bade me farewell and departed。
I arrived at Corwen which is just ten miles from Llangollen and
which stands beneath a vast range of rocks at the head of the
valley up which I had been coming; and which is called Glyndyfrdwy;
or the valley of the Dee water。 It was now about two o'clock; and
feeling rather thirsty I went to an inn very appropriately called
the Owen Glendower; being the principal inn in the principal town
of what was once the domain of the great Owen。 Here I stopped for
about an hour refreshing myself and occasionally looking into a
newspaper in which was an excellent article on the case of poor
Lieutenant P。 I then started for Cerrig…y…Drudion; distant about
ten miles; where I proposed to pass the night。 Directing my course
to the north…west; I crossed a bridge over the Dee water and then
proceeded rapidly along the road; which for some way lay between
corn…fields; in many of which sheaves were piled up; showing that
the Welsh harvest was begun。 I soon passed over a little stream;
the name of which I was told was Alowan。 〃Oh; what a blessing it
is to be able to speak Welsh!〃 said I; finding that not a person to
whom I addressed myself had a word of English to bestow upon me。
After walking for about five miles I came to a beautiful but wild
country of mountain and wood with here and there a few cottages。
The road at length making an abrupt turn to the north; I found
myself with a low stone wall on my left; on the verge of a profound
ravine; and a high bank covered with trees on my right。 Projecting
out over the ravine was a kind of looking place; protected by a
wall; forming a half…circle; doubtless made by the proprietor of
the domain for the use of the admirers of scenery。 There I
stationed myself; and for some time enjoyed one of the wildest and
most beautiful scenes imaginable。 Below me was the deep narrow
glen or ravine; down which a mountain torrent roared and foamed。
Beyond it was a mountain rising steeply; its nearer side; which was
in deep shade; the sun having long sunk below its top; hirsute with
all kinds of trees; from the highest pinnacle down to the torrent's
brink。 Cut on the top surface of the wall; which was of slate; and
therefore easily impressible by the knife; were several names;
doubtless those of tourists; who had gazed from the look…out on the
prospect; amongst which I observed in remarkably bold letters that
of T 。 。 。 。
〃Eager for immortality; Mr T。;〃 said I; 〃but you are no H。 M。; no
Huw Morris。〃
Leaving the looking place I proceeded; and; after one or two
turnings; came to another; which afforded a view if possible yet
more grand; beautiful and wild; the most prominent objects of which
were a kind of devil's bridge flung over the deep glen and its
foaming water; and a strange…looking hill beyond it; below which;
with a wood on either side; stood a white farm…house … sending from
a tall chimney a thin misty reek up to the sky。 I crossed the
bridge; which; however diabolically fantastical it looked at a
distance; seemed when one was upon it; capable of bearing any
weight; and soon found myself by the farm…house past which the way
led。 An aged woman sat on a stool by the door。
〃A fine evening;〃 said I in English。
〃Dim Saesneg;〃 said the aged woman。
〃Oh; the blessing of being able to speak Welsh;〃 said I; and then
repeated in that language what I had said to her in the other
tongue。
〃I daresay;〃 said the aged woman; 〃to those who can see。〃
〃Can you not see?〃
〃Very little。 I am almost blind。〃
〃Can you not see me?〃
〃I can see something tall and dark before me; that is all。〃
〃Can you tell me the name of the bridge?〃
〃Pont y Glyn bin … the bridge of the glen of trouble。〃
〃And what is the name of this place?〃
〃Pen y bont … the head of the bridge。〃
〃What is your own name?〃
〃Catherine Hughes。〃
〃How old are you?〃
〃Fifteen after three twenties。〃
〃I have a mother three after four twenties; that is eight years
older than yourself。〃
〃Can she see?〃
〃Better than I … she can read the smallest letters。〃
〃May she long be a comfort to you!〃
〃Thank you … are you the mistress of the house?〃
〃I am the grandmother。〃
〃Are the people in the house?〃
〃They are not … they are at the chapel。〃
〃And they left you alone?〃
〃They left me with my God。〃
〃Is the chapel far from here?〃
〃About a mile。〃
〃On the road to Cerrig y Drudion?〃
〃On the road to Cerrig y Drudion。〃
I bade her farewell; and pushed on … the road was good; with high
rocky banks on each side。 After walking about the distance
indicated by the old lady; I reached a building; which stood on the
right…hand side of the road; and which I had no doubt was the
chapel; from a half…groaning; half…singing noise which proceeded
from it。 The door being open; I entered; and stood just within it;
bare…headed。 A rather singular scene presented itself。 Within a
large dimly…lighted room; a number of people were assembled; partly
seated in rude pews; and partly on benches。 Beneath a kind of
altar; a few yards from the door; stood three men … the middlemost
was praying in Welsh in a singular kind of chant; with his arms
stretched out。 I could distinguish the words; 〃Jesus descend among
us! sweet Jesus descend among us … quickly。〃 He spoke very slowly;
and towards the end of every sentence dropped his voice; so that
what he said was anything but distinct。 As I stood within the
door; a man dressed in coarse garments came up to me from the
interior of the building; and courteously; and in excellent Welsh;
asked me to come with him and take a seat。 With equal courtesy;
but far inferior Welsh; I assured him that I meant no harm; but
wished to be permitted to remain near the door; whereupon with a
low bow he left me。 When the man had concluded his prayer; the
whole of the congregation began singing a hymn; many of the voices
were gruff and discordant; two or three; however; were of great
power; and some of the female ones of surprising sweetness。 At the
conclusion of the hymn; another of the three men by the altar began
to pray; just in the same manner as his comrade had done; and
seemingly using much the same words。 When he had done; there was
another hymn; after which; seeing that the congregation was about
to break up; I bowed my head towards the interior of the building;
and departed。
Emerging from the hollow way; I found myself on a moor; over which
the road lay in the direction of the north。 Towards the west; at
an immense distance; rose a range of stupendous hills; which I
subsequently learned were those of Snowdon … about ten minutes'
walking brought me to Cerrig y Drudion; a small village near a
rocky elevation; from which; no doubt; the place takes its name;
which interpreted; is the Rock of Heroes。
CHAPTER XXIV
Cerrig y Drudion … The Landlady … Doctor Jones … Coll Gwynfa … The
Italian … Men of Como … Disappointment … Weather … Glasses …
Southey。
THE inn at Cerrig y Drudion was called the Lion … whether the
white; black; red or green Lion; I do not know; though I am certain
that it was a lion of some colour or other。 It seemed as decent
and respectable a hostelry as any traveller could wish; to refresh
and repose himself in; after a walk of twenty miles。 I entered a
well…lighted passage; and from thence a well…lighted bar room; on
the right hand; in which sat a stout; comely; elderly lady; dressed
in silks and satins; with a cambric coif on her head; in company
with a thin; elderly man with a hat on his head; dressed in a
rather prim and precise manner。 〃Madam!〃 said I; bowing to the
lady; 〃as I suppose you are the mistress of this establishment; I
beg leave to inform you that I am an Englishman; walking through
these regions; in order fully to enjoy their beauties and wonders。
I have this day come from Llangollen; and being somewhat hungry and
fatigued; hope I can be accommodated here with a dinner and a bed。〃
〃Sir!〃 said the lady; getting up and making me a profound curtsey;
〃I am; as you suppose; the mistress of this establishment; and am
happy to say that I shall be able to accommodate you … pray sit
down; sir;〃 she continued; handing me a chair; 〃you must indeed be
tired; for Llangollen is a great way from here。〃
I took the seat with thanks; and she resumed her own。
〃Rather hot weather for walking; sir!〃 said the precise…looking
gentleman。
〃It is;〃 said I; 〃but as I can't observe the country well without
walking through it; I put up with the heat。〃
〃You exhibit a philosophic mind; sir;〃 said the precise…looking
gentleman … 〃and a philosophic mind I hold in reverence。〃
〃Pray; sir;〃 said I; 〃have I the honour of addressing a member of
the medical profession?〃
〃Sir;〃 said the precise…looking gentleman; getting up and making me
a bow; 〃your question does honour to your powers of discrimination
… a member of the medical profession I am; thou