第 31 节
作者:随便看看      更新:2021-02-25 00:46      字数:9322
  in these parts; before; however; I could do so he turned down a
  road to the right which led towards a small bridge; and saying that
  was his way home; bade me farewell and departed。
  I arrived at Corwen which is just ten miles from Llangollen and
  which stands beneath a vast range of rocks at the head of the
  valley up which I had been coming; and which is called Glyndyfrdwy;
  or the valley of the Dee water。  It was now about two o'clock; and
  feeling rather thirsty I went to an inn very appropriately called
  the Owen Glendower; being the principal inn in the principal town
  of what was once the domain of the great Owen。  Here I stopped for
  about an hour refreshing myself and occasionally looking into a
  newspaper in which was an excellent article on the case of poor
  Lieutenant P。  I then started for Cerrig…y…Drudion; distant about
  ten miles; where I proposed to pass the night。  Directing my course
  to the north…west; I crossed a bridge over the Dee water and then
  proceeded rapidly along the road; which for some way lay between
  corn…fields; in many of which sheaves were piled up; showing that
  the Welsh harvest was begun。  I soon passed over a little stream;
  the name of which I was told was Alowan。  〃Oh; what a blessing it
  is to be able to speak Welsh!〃 said I; finding that not a person to
  whom I addressed myself had a word of English to bestow upon me。
  After walking for about five miles I came to a beautiful but wild
  country of mountain and wood with here and there a few cottages。
  The road at length making an abrupt turn to the north; I found
  myself with a low stone wall on my left; on the verge of a profound
  ravine; and a high bank covered with trees on my right。  Projecting
  out over the ravine was a kind of looking place; protected by a
  wall; forming a half…circle; doubtless made by the proprietor of
  the domain for the use of the admirers of scenery。  There I
  stationed myself; and for some time enjoyed one of the wildest and
  most beautiful scenes imaginable。  Below me was the deep narrow
  glen or ravine; down which a mountain torrent roared and foamed。
  Beyond it was a mountain rising steeply; its nearer side; which was
  in deep shade; the sun having long sunk below its top; hirsute with
  all kinds of trees; from the highest pinnacle down to the torrent's
  brink。  Cut on the top surface of the wall; which was of slate; and
  therefore easily impressible by the knife; were several names;
  doubtless those of tourists; who had gazed from the look…out on the
  prospect; amongst which I observed in remarkably bold letters that
  of T 。 。 。 。
  〃Eager for immortality; Mr T。;〃 said I; 〃but you are no H。 M。; no
  Huw Morris。〃
  Leaving the looking place I proceeded; and; after one or two
  turnings; came to another; which afforded a view if possible yet
  more grand; beautiful and wild; the most prominent objects of which
  were a kind of devil's bridge flung over the deep glen and its
  foaming water; and a strange…looking hill beyond it; below which;
  with a wood on either side; stood a white farm…house … sending from
  a tall chimney a thin misty reek up to the sky。  I crossed the
  bridge; which; however diabolically fantastical it looked at a
  distance; seemed when one was upon it; capable of bearing any
  weight; and soon found myself by the farm…house past which the way
  led。  An aged woman sat on a stool by the door。
  〃A fine evening;〃 said I in English。
  〃Dim Saesneg;〃 said the aged woman。
  〃Oh; the blessing of being able to speak Welsh;〃 said I; and then
  repeated in that language what I had said to her in the other
  tongue。
  〃I daresay;〃 said the aged woman; 〃to those who can see。〃
  〃Can you not see?〃
  〃Very little。  I am almost blind。〃
  〃Can you not see me?〃
  〃I can see something tall and dark before me; that is all。〃
  〃Can you tell me the name of the bridge?〃
  〃Pont y Glyn bin … the bridge of the glen of trouble。〃
  〃And what is the name of this place?〃
  〃Pen y bont … the head of the bridge。〃
  〃What is your own name?〃
  〃Catherine Hughes。〃
  〃How old are you?〃
  〃Fifteen after three twenties。〃
  〃I have a mother three after four twenties; that is eight years
  older than yourself。〃
  〃Can she see?〃
  〃Better than I … she can read the smallest letters。〃
  〃May she long be a comfort to you!〃
  〃Thank you … are you the mistress of the house?〃
  〃I am the grandmother。〃
  〃Are the people in the house?〃
  〃They are not … they are at the chapel。〃
  〃And they left you alone?〃
  〃They left me with my God。〃
  〃Is the chapel far from here?〃
  〃About a mile。〃
  〃On the road to Cerrig y Drudion?〃
  〃On the road to Cerrig y Drudion。〃
  I bade her farewell; and pushed on … the road was good; with high
  rocky banks on each side。  After walking about the distance
  indicated by the old lady; I reached a building; which stood on the
  right…hand side of the road; and which I had no doubt was the
  chapel; from a half…groaning; half…singing noise which proceeded
  from it。  The door being open; I entered; and stood just within it;
  bare…headed。  A rather singular scene presented itself。  Within a
  large dimly…lighted room; a number of people were assembled; partly
  seated in rude pews; and partly on benches。  Beneath a kind of
  altar; a few yards from the door; stood three men … the middlemost
  was praying in Welsh in a singular kind of chant; with his arms
  stretched out。  I could distinguish the words; 〃Jesus descend among
  us! sweet Jesus descend among us … quickly。〃  He spoke very slowly;
  and towards the end of every sentence dropped his voice; so that
  what he said was anything but distinct。  As I stood within the
  door; a man dressed in coarse garments came up to me from the
  interior of the building; and courteously; and in excellent Welsh;
  asked me to come with him and take a seat。  With equal courtesy;
  but far inferior Welsh; I assured him that I meant no harm; but
  wished to be permitted to remain near the door; whereupon with a
  low bow he left me。  When the man had concluded his prayer; the
  whole of the congregation began singing a hymn; many of the voices
  were gruff and discordant; two or three; however; were of great
  power; and some of the female ones of surprising sweetness。  At the
  conclusion of the hymn; another of the three men by the altar began
  to pray; just in the same manner as his comrade had done; and
  seemingly using much the same words。  When he had done; there was
  another hymn; after which; seeing that the congregation was about
  to break up; I bowed my head towards the interior of the building;
  and departed。
  Emerging from the hollow way; I found myself on a moor; over which
  the road lay in the direction of the north。  Towards the west; at
  an immense distance; rose a range of stupendous hills; which I
  subsequently learned were those of Snowdon … about ten minutes'
  walking brought me to Cerrig y Drudion; a small village near a
  rocky elevation; from which; no doubt; the place takes its name;
  which interpreted; is the Rock of Heroes。
  CHAPTER XXIV
  Cerrig y Drudion … The Landlady … Doctor Jones … Coll Gwynfa … The
  Italian … Men of Como … Disappointment … Weather … Glasses …
  Southey。
  THE inn at Cerrig y Drudion was called the Lion … whether the
  white; black; red or green Lion; I do not know; though I am certain
  that it was a lion of some colour or other。  It seemed as decent
  and respectable a hostelry as any traveller could wish; to refresh
  and repose himself in; after a walk of twenty miles。  I entered a
  well…lighted passage; and from thence a well…lighted bar room; on
  the right hand; in which sat a stout; comely; elderly lady; dressed
  in silks and satins; with a cambric coif on her head; in company
  with a thin; elderly man with a hat on his head; dressed in a
  rather prim and precise manner。  〃Madam!〃 said I; bowing to the
  lady; 〃as I suppose you are the mistress of this establishment; I
  beg leave to inform you that I am an Englishman; walking through
  these regions; in order fully to enjoy their beauties and wonders。
  I have this day come from Llangollen; and being somewhat hungry and
  fatigued; hope I can be accommodated here with a dinner and a bed。〃
  〃Sir!〃 said the lady; getting up and making me a profound curtsey;
  〃I am; as you suppose; the mistress of this establishment; and am
  happy to say that I shall be able to accommodate you … pray sit
  down; sir;〃 she continued; handing me a chair; 〃you must indeed be
  tired; for Llangollen is a great way from here。〃
  I took the seat with thanks; and she resumed her own。
  〃Rather hot weather for walking; sir!〃 said the precise…looking
  gentleman。
  〃It is;〃 said I; 〃but as I can't observe the country well without
  walking through it; I put up with the heat。〃
  〃You exhibit a philosophic mind; sir;〃 said the precise…looking
  gentleman … 〃and a philosophic mind I hold in reverence。〃
  〃Pray; sir;〃 said I; 〃have I the honour of addressing a member of
  the medical profession?〃
  〃Sir;〃 said the precise…looking gentleman; getting up and making me
  a bow; 〃your question does honour to your powers of discrimination
  … a member of the medical profession I am; thou