第 24 节
作者:随便看看      更新:2021-02-25 00:46      字数:9322
  Salisburie; Vaughan of Hengwrt; or some other worthy of old; deeply
  skilled in everything remarkable connected with wild 〃Camber's
  Lande。〃
  CHAPTER XIX
  The Vicar and his Family … Evan Evans … Foaming Ale … Llam y
  Lleidyr … Baptism … Joost Van Vondel … Over to Rome … The Miller's
  Man … Welsh and English。
  WE had received a call from the Vicar of Llangollen and his lady;
  we had returned it; and they had done us the kindness to invite us
  to take tea with them。  On the appointed evening we went; myself;
  wife; and Henrietta; and took tea with the vicar and his wife;
  their sons and daughters; all delightful and amiable beings … the
  eldest son a fine intelligent young man from Oxford; lately
  admitted into the Church; and now assisting his father in his
  sacred office。  A delightful residence was the vicarage; situated
  amongst trees in the neighbourhood of the Dee。  A large open window
  in the room; in which our party sat; afforded us a view of a green
  plat on the top of a bank running down to the Dee; part of the
  river; the steep farther bank covered with umbrageous trees; and a
  high mountain beyond; even that of Pen y Coed clad with wood。
  During tea Mr E。 and I had a great deal of discourse。  I found him
  to be a first…rate Greek and Latin scholar; and also a proficient
  in the poetical literature of his own country。  In the course of
  discourse he repeated some noble lines of Evan Evans; the
  unfortunate and eccentric Prydydd Hir; or tall poet; the friend and
  correspondent of Gray; for whom he made literal translations from
  the Welsh; which the great English genius afterwards wrought into
  immortal verse。
  〃I have a great regard for poor Evan Evans;〃 said Mr E。; after he
  had finished repeating the lines; 〃for two reasons:  first; because
  he was an illustrious genius; and second; because he was a South…
  Wallian like myself。〃
  〃And I;〃 I replied; 〃because he was a great poet; and like myself
  fond of a glass of cwrw da。〃
  Some time after tea the younger Mr E。 and myself took a walk in an
  eastern direction along a path cut in the bank; just above the
  stream。  After proceeding a little way amongst most romantic
  scenery; I asked my companion if he had ever heard of the pool of
  Catherine Lingo … the deep pool; as the reader will please to
  remember; of which John Jones had spoken。
  〃Oh yes;〃 said young Mr E。:  〃my brothers and myself are in the
  habit of bathing there almost every morning。  We will go to it if
  you please。〃
  We proceeded; and soon came to the pool。  The pool is a beautiful
  sheet of water; seemingly about one hundred and fifty yards in
  length; by about seventy in width。  It is bounded on the east by a
  low ridge of rocks forming a weir。  The banks on both sides are
  high and precipitous; and covered with trees; some of which shoot
  their arms for some way above the face of the pool。  This is said
  to be the deepest pool in the whole course of the Dee; varying in
  depth from twenty to thirty feet。  Enormous pike; called in Welsh
  penhwiaid; or ducks…heads; from the similarity which the head of a
  pike bears to that of a duck; are said to be tenants of this pool。
  We returned to the vicarage; and at about ten we all sat down to
  supper。  On the supper…table was a mighty pitcher full of foaming
  ale。
  〃There;〃 said my excellent host; as he poured me out a glass;
  〃there is a glass of cwrw; which Evan Evans himself might have
  drunk。〃
  One evening my wife; Henrietta; and myself; attended by John Jones;
  went upon the Berwyn; a little to the east of the Geraint or
  Barber's Hill; to botanize。  Here we found a fern which John Jones
  called Coed llus y Bran; or the plant of the Crow's berry。  There
  was a hard kind of berry upon it; of which he said the crows were
  exceedingly fond。  We also discovered two or three other strange
  plants; the Welsh names of which our guide told us; and which were
  curious and descriptive enough。  He took us home by a romantic path
  which we had never before seen; and on our way pointed out to us a
  small house in which he said he was born。
  The day after; finding myself on the banks of the Dee in the upper
  part of the valley; I determined to examine the Llam Lleidyr or
  Robber's Leap; which I had heard spoken of on a former occasion。  A
  man passing near me with a cart I asked him where the Robber's Leap
  was。  I spoke in English; and with a shake of his head he replied
  〃Dim Saesneg。〃  On my putting the question to him in Welsh;
  however; his countenance brightened up。
  〃Dyna Llam Lleidyr; sir!〃 said he; pointing to a very narrow part
  of the stream a little way down。
  〃And did the thief take it from this side?〃 I demanded。
  〃Yes; sir; from this side;〃 replied the man。
  I thanked him; and passing over the dry part of the river's bed;
  came to the Llam Lleidyr。  The whole water of the Dee in the dry
  season gurgles here through a passage not more than four feet
  across; which; however; is evidently profoundly deep; as the water
  is as dark as pitch。  If the thief ever took the leap he must have
  taken it in the dry season; for in the wet the Dee is a wide and
  roaring torrent。  Yet even in the dry season it is difficult to
  conceive how anybody could take this leap; for on the other side is
  a rock rising high above the dark gurgling stream。  On observing
  the opposite side; however; narrowly; I perceived that there was a
  small hole a little way up the rock; in which it seemed possible to
  rest one's foot for a moment。  So I supposed that if the leap was
  ever taken; the individual who took it darted the tip of his foot
  into the hole; then springing up seized the top of the rock with
  his hands; and scrambled up。  From either side the leap must have
  been a highly dangerous one … from the farther side the leaper
  would incur the almost certain risk of breaking his legs on a ledge
  of hard rock; from this of falling back into the deep horrible
  stream; which would probably suck him down in a moment。
  From the Llam y Lleidyr I went to the canal and walked along it
  till I came to the house of the old man who sold coals; and who had
  put me in mind of Smollett's Morgan; he was now standing in his
  little coal…yard; leaning over the pales。  I had spoken to him on
  two or three occasions subsequent to the one on which I made his
  acquaintance; and had been every time more and more struck with the
  resemblance which his ways and manners bore to those of Smollett's
  character; on which account I shall call him Morgan; though such
  was not his name。  He now told me that he expected that I should
  build a villa and settle down in the neighbourhood; as I seemed so
  fond of it。  After a little discourse; induced either by my
  questions or from a desire to talk about himself; he related to me
  his history; which; though not one of the most wonderful; I shall
  repeat。  He was born near Aberdarron in Caernarvonshire; and in
  order to make me understand the position of the place; and its
  bearing with regard to some other places; he drew marks in the
  coal…dust on the earth。  His father was a Baptist minister; who
  when Morgan was about six years of age; went to live at Canol Lyn;
  a place at some little distance from Port Heli。  With his father he
  continued till he was old enough to gain his own maintenance; when
  he went to serve a farmer in the neighbourhood。  Having saved some
  money young Morgan departed to the foundries at Cefn Mawr; at which
  he worked thirty years with an interval of four; which he had
  passed partly in working in slate quarries; and partly upon the
  canal。  About four years before the present time he came to where
  he now lived; where he commenced selling coals; at first on his own
  account and subsequently for some other person。  He concluded his
  narration by saying that he was now sixty…two years of age; was
  afflicted with various disorders; and believed that he was breaking
  up。
  Such was Morgan's history; certainly not a very remarkable one。
  Yet Morgan was a most remarkable individual; as I shall presently
  make appear。
  Rather affected at the bad account he gave me of his health I asked
  him if he felt easy in his mind?  He replied perfectly so; and when
  I inquired how he came to feel so comfortable; he said that his
  feeling so was owing to his baptism into the faith of Christ Jesus。
  On my telling him that I too had been baptized; he asked me if I
  had been dipped; and on learning that I had not; but only been
  sprinkled; according to the practice of my church; he gave me to
  understand that my baptism was not worth three halfpence。  Feeling
  rather nettled at hearing the baptism of my church so undervalued;
  I stood up for it; and we were soon in a dispute; in which I got
  rather the worst; for though he spuffled and sputtered in a most
  extraordinary manner; and spoke in a dialect which was neither
  Welsh; English nor Cheshire; but a mixture of all three; he said
  two or three things rather difficult to be got over。  Finding that
  he had nearly silenced me; he observed that he did not deny that I
  had a good deal of book learning; but that in matters of baptism I
  was as ignoran