第 24 节
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Salisburie; Vaughan of Hengwrt; or some other worthy of old; deeply
skilled in everything remarkable connected with wild 〃Camber's
Lande。〃
CHAPTER XIX
The Vicar and his Family … Evan Evans … Foaming Ale … Llam y
Lleidyr … Baptism … Joost Van Vondel … Over to Rome … The Miller's
Man … Welsh and English。
WE had received a call from the Vicar of Llangollen and his lady;
we had returned it; and they had done us the kindness to invite us
to take tea with them。 On the appointed evening we went; myself;
wife; and Henrietta; and took tea with the vicar and his wife;
their sons and daughters; all delightful and amiable beings … the
eldest son a fine intelligent young man from Oxford; lately
admitted into the Church; and now assisting his father in his
sacred office。 A delightful residence was the vicarage; situated
amongst trees in the neighbourhood of the Dee。 A large open window
in the room; in which our party sat; afforded us a view of a green
plat on the top of a bank running down to the Dee; part of the
river; the steep farther bank covered with umbrageous trees; and a
high mountain beyond; even that of Pen y Coed clad with wood。
During tea Mr E。 and I had a great deal of discourse。 I found him
to be a first…rate Greek and Latin scholar; and also a proficient
in the poetical literature of his own country。 In the course of
discourse he repeated some noble lines of Evan Evans; the
unfortunate and eccentric Prydydd Hir; or tall poet; the friend and
correspondent of Gray; for whom he made literal translations from
the Welsh; which the great English genius afterwards wrought into
immortal verse。
〃I have a great regard for poor Evan Evans;〃 said Mr E。; after he
had finished repeating the lines; 〃for two reasons: first; because
he was an illustrious genius; and second; because he was a South…
Wallian like myself。〃
〃And I;〃 I replied; 〃because he was a great poet; and like myself
fond of a glass of cwrw da。〃
Some time after tea the younger Mr E。 and myself took a walk in an
eastern direction along a path cut in the bank; just above the
stream。 After proceeding a little way amongst most romantic
scenery; I asked my companion if he had ever heard of the pool of
Catherine Lingo … the deep pool; as the reader will please to
remember; of which John Jones had spoken。
〃Oh yes;〃 said young Mr E。: 〃my brothers and myself are in the
habit of bathing there almost every morning。 We will go to it if
you please。〃
We proceeded; and soon came to the pool。 The pool is a beautiful
sheet of water; seemingly about one hundred and fifty yards in
length; by about seventy in width。 It is bounded on the east by a
low ridge of rocks forming a weir。 The banks on both sides are
high and precipitous; and covered with trees; some of which shoot
their arms for some way above the face of the pool。 This is said
to be the deepest pool in the whole course of the Dee; varying in
depth from twenty to thirty feet。 Enormous pike; called in Welsh
penhwiaid; or ducks…heads; from the similarity which the head of a
pike bears to that of a duck; are said to be tenants of this pool。
We returned to the vicarage; and at about ten we all sat down to
supper。 On the supper…table was a mighty pitcher full of foaming
ale。
〃There;〃 said my excellent host; as he poured me out a glass;
〃there is a glass of cwrw; which Evan Evans himself might have
drunk。〃
One evening my wife; Henrietta; and myself; attended by John Jones;
went upon the Berwyn; a little to the east of the Geraint or
Barber's Hill; to botanize。 Here we found a fern which John Jones
called Coed llus y Bran; or the plant of the Crow's berry。 There
was a hard kind of berry upon it; of which he said the crows were
exceedingly fond。 We also discovered two or three other strange
plants; the Welsh names of which our guide told us; and which were
curious and descriptive enough。 He took us home by a romantic path
which we had never before seen; and on our way pointed out to us a
small house in which he said he was born。
The day after; finding myself on the banks of the Dee in the upper
part of the valley; I determined to examine the Llam Lleidyr or
Robber's Leap; which I had heard spoken of on a former occasion。 A
man passing near me with a cart I asked him where the Robber's Leap
was。 I spoke in English; and with a shake of his head he replied
〃Dim Saesneg。〃 On my putting the question to him in Welsh;
however; his countenance brightened up。
〃Dyna Llam Lleidyr; sir!〃 said he; pointing to a very narrow part
of the stream a little way down。
〃And did the thief take it from this side?〃 I demanded。
〃Yes; sir; from this side;〃 replied the man。
I thanked him; and passing over the dry part of the river's bed;
came to the Llam Lleidyr。 The whole water of the Dee in the dry
season gurgles here through a passage not more than four feet
across; which; however; is evidently profoundly deep; as the water
is as dark as pitch。 If the thief ever took the leap he must have
taken it in the dry season; for in the wet the Dee is a wide and
roaring torrent。 Yet even in the dry season it is difficult to
conceive how anybody could take this leap; for on the other side is
a rock rising high above the dark gurgling stream。 On observing
the opposite side; however; narrowly; I perceived that there was a
small hole a little way up the rock; in which it seemed possible to
rest one's foot for a moment。 So I supposed that if the leap was
ever taken; the individual who took it darted the tip of his foot
into the hole; then springing up seized the top of the rock with
his hands; and scrambled up。 From either side the leap must have
been a highly dangerous one … from the farther side the leaper
would incur the almost certain risk of breaking his legs on a ledge
of hard rock; from this of falling back into the deep horrible
stream; which would probably suck him down in a moment。
From the Llam y Lleidyr I went to the canal and walked along it
till I came to the house of the old man who sold coals; and who had
put me in mind of Smollett's Morgan; he was now standing in his
little coal…yard; leaning over the pales。 I had spoken to him on
two or three occasions subsequent to the one on which I made his
acquaintance; and had been every time more and more struck with the
resemblance which his ways and manners bore to those of Smollett's
character; on which account I shall call him Morgan; though such
was not his name。 He now told me that he expected that I should
build a villa and settle down in the neighbourhood; as I seemed so
fond of it。 After a little discourse; induced either by my
questions or from a desire to talk about himself; he related to me
his history; which; though not one of the most wonderful; I shall
repeat。 He was born near Aberdarron in Caernarvonshire; and in
order to make me understand the position of the place; and its
bearing with regard to some other places; he drew marks in the
coal…dust on the earth。 His father was a Baptist minister; who
when Morgan was about six years of age; went to live at Canol Lyn;
a place at some little distance from Port Heli。 With his father he
continued till he was old enough to gain his own maintenance; when
he went to serve a farmer in the neighbourhood。 Having saved some
money young Morgan departed to the foundries at Cefn Mawr; at which
he worked thirty years with an interval of four; which he had
passed partly in working in slate quarries; and partly upon the
canal。 About four years before the present time he came to where
he now lived; where he commenced selling coals; at first on his own
account and subsequently for some other person。 He concluded his
narration by saying that he was now sixty…two years of age; was
afflicted with various disorders; and believed that he was breaking
up。
Such was Morgan's history; certainly not a very remarkable one。
Yet Morgan was a most remarkable individual; as I shall presently
make appear。
Rather affected at the bad account he gave me of his health I asked
him if he felt easy in his mind? He replied perfectly so; and when
I inquired how he came to feel so comfortable; he said that his
feeling so was owing to his baptism into the faith of Christ Jesus。
On my telling him that I too had been baptized; he asked me if I
had been dipped; and on learning that I had not; but only been
sprinkled; according to the practice of my church; he gave me to
understand that my baptism was not worth three halfpence。 Feeling
rather nettled at hearing the baptism of my church so undervalued;
I stood up for it; and we were soon in a dispute; in which I got
rather the worst; for though he spuffled and sputtered in a most
extraordinary manner; and spoke in a dialect which was neither
Welsh; English nor Cheshire; but a mixture of all three; he said
two or three things rather difficult to be got over。 Finding that
he had nearly silenced me; he observed that he did not deny that I
had a good deal of book learning; but that in matters of baptism I
was as ignoran