of　small　houses。　　On　our　turning　a　corner　a　church　appeared　on　our
  left　hand　on　the　slope　of　the　hill。　　In　the　churchyard；　and　close
  to　the　road；　grew　a　large　yew…tree　which　flung　its　boughs　far　on
  every　side。　　John　Jones　stopping　by　the　tree　said；　that　if　I　looked
  over　the　wall　of　the　yard　I　should　see　the　tomb　of　a　Lord
  Dungannon；　who　had　been　a　great　benefactor　to　the　village。　　I
  looked；　and　through　the　lower　branches　of　the　yew；　which　hung　over
  part　of　the　churchyard；　I　saw　what　appeared　to　be　a　mausoleum。
  Jones　told　me　that　in　the　church　also　there　was　the　tomb　of　a　great
  person　of　the　name　of　Tyrwhitt。
  We　passed　on　by　various　houses　till　we　came　nearly　to　the　bottom　of
  the　valley。　　Jones　then　pointing　to　a　large　house；　at　a　little
  distance　on　the　right；　told　me　that　it　was　a　good　gwesty；　and
  advised　me　to　go　and　refresh　myself　in　it；　whilst　he　went　and
  carried　home　his　work　to　the　man　who　employed　him；　who　he　said
  lived　in　a　farm…house　a　few　hundred　yards　off。　　I　asked　him　where
  we　were。
  〃At　Llyn　Ceiriog；〃　he　replied。
  I　then　asked　if　we　were　near　Pont　Fadog；　and　received　for　answer
  that　Pont　Fadog　was　a　good　way　down　the　valley；　to　the　north…east；
  and　that　we　could　not　see　it　owing　to　a　hill　which　intervened。
  Jones　went　his　way　and　I　proceeded　to　the　gwestfa；　the　door　of
  which　stood　invitingly　open。　　I　entered　a　large　kitchen；　at　one　end
  of　which　a　good　fire　was　burning　in　a　grate；　in　front　of　which　was
  a　long　table；　and　a　high　settle　on　either　side。　　Everything　looked
  very　comfortable。　　There　was　nobody　in　the　kitchen：　　on　my　calling；
  however；　a　girl　came；　whom　I　bade　in　Welsh　to　bring　me　a　pint　of
  the　best　ale。　　The　girl　stared；　but　went　away　apparently　to　fetch
  it　…　presently　came　the　landlady；　a　good…looking　middle…aged　woman。
  I　saluted　her　in　Welsh　and　then　asked　her　if　she　could　speak
  English。　　She　replied　〃Tipyn　bach；〃　which　interpreted；　is；　a　little
  bit。　　I　soon；　however；　found　that　she　could　speak　it　very　passably；
  for　two　men　coming　in　from　the　rear　of　the　house　she　conversed　with
  them　in　English。　　These　two　individuals　seated　themselves　on　chairs
  near　the　door；　and　called　for　beer。　　The　girl　brought　in　the　ale；
  and　I　sat　down　by　the　fire；　poured　myself　out　a　glass；　and　made
  myself　comfortable。　　Presently　a　gig　drove　up　to　the　door；　and　in
  came　a　couple　of　dogs；　one　a　tall　black　grey…hound；　the　other　a
  large　female　setter；　the　coat　of　the　latter　dripping　with　rain；　and
  shortly　after　two　men　from　the　gig　entered；　one　who　appeared　to　be
  the　principal　was　a　stout　bluff…looking　person　between　fifty　and
  sixty；　dressed　in　a　grey　stuff　coat　and　with　a　slouched　hat　on　his
  head。　　This　man　bustled　much　about；　and　in　a　broad　Yorkshire
  dialect　ordered　a　fire　to　be　lighted　in　another　room；　and　a　chamber
  to　be　prepared　for　him　and　his　companion；　the　landlady；　who
  appeared　to　know　him；　and　to　treat　him　with　a　kind　of　deference；
  asked　if　she　should　prepare　two　beds；　whereupon　he　answered　〃No！
  As　we　came　together　and　shall　start　together；　so　shall　we　sleep
  together；　it　will　not　be　for　the　first　time。〃
  His　companion　was　a　small　mean…looking　man；　dressed　in　a　black
  coat；　and　behaved　to　him　with　no　little　respect。　　Not　only　the
  landlady；　but　the　two　men；　of　whom　I　have　previously　spoken；
  appeared　to　know　him　and　to　treat　him　with　deference。　　He　and　his
  companion　presently　went　out　to　see　after　the　horse。　　After　a
  little　time　they　returned；　and　the　stout　man　called　lustily　for　two
  fourpennyworths　of　brandy　and　water　…　〃Take　it　into　the　other
  room！〃　said　he；　and　went　into　a　side　room　with　his　companion；　but
  almost　immediately　came　out　saying　that　the　room　smoked　and　was
  cold；　and　that　he　preferred　sitting　in　the　kitchen。　　He　then　took
  his　seat　near　me；　and　when　the　brandy　was　brought　drank　to　my
  health。　　I　said　thank　you；　but　nothing　farther。　　He　then　began
  talking　to　the　men　and　his　companion　upon　indifferent　subjects。
  After　a　little　time　John　Jones　came　in；　called　for　a　glass　of　ale；
  and　at　my　invitation　seated　himself　between　me　and　the　stout
  personage。　　The　latter　addressed　him　roughly　in　English；　but
  receiving　no　answer　said；　〃Ah；　you　no　understand。　　You　have　no
  English　and　I　no　Welsh。〃
  〃You　have　not　mastered　Welsh　yet　Mr　…　〃　said　one　of　the　men　to　him。
  〃No！〃　said　he：　　〃I　have　been　doing　business　with　the　Welsh　forty
  years；　but　can't　speak　a　word　of　their　language。　　I　sometimes　guess
  at　a　word；　spoken　in　the　course　of　business；　but　am　never　sure。〃
  Presently　John　Jones　began　talking　to　me；　saying　that　he　had　been
  to　the　river；　that　the　water　was　very　low；　and　that　there　was
  little　but　stones　in　the　bed　of　the　stream。
  I　told　him　if　its　name　was　Ceiriog　no　wonder　there　were　plenty　of
  stones　in　it；　Ceiriog　being　derived　from　Cerrig；　a　rock。　　The　men
  stared　to　hear　me　speak　Welsh。
  〃Is　the　gentleman　a　Welshman？〃　said　one　of　the　men；　near　the　door；
  to　his　companion；　〃he　seems　to　speak　Welsh　very　well。〃
  〃How　should　I　know？〃　said　the　other；　who　appeared　to　be　a　low
  working　man。
  〃Who　are　those　people？〃　said　I　to　John　Jones。
  〃The　smaller　man　is　a　workman　at　a　flannel　manufactory；〃　said
  Jones。　　〃The　other　I　do　not　exactly　know。〃
  〃And　who　is　the　man　on　the　other　side　of　you？〃　said　I。
  〃I　believe　he　is　an　English　dealer　in　gigs　and　horses；〃　replied
  Jones；　〃and　that　he　is　come　here　either　to　buy　or　sell。〃
  The　man；　however；　soon　put　me　out　of　all　doubt　with　respect　to　his
  profession。
  〃I　was　at　Chirk；〃　said　he；　〃and　Mr　So…and…so　asked　me　to　have　a
  look　at　his　new　gig　and　horse；　and　have　a　ride。　　I　consented。　　They
  were　both　brought　out　…　everything　new；　gig　new；　harness　new；　and
  horse　new。　　Mr　So…and…so　asked　me　what　I　thought　of　his　turn…out。
  I　gave　a　look　and　said；　'I　like　the　car　very　well；　harness　very
  well；　but　I　don't　like　the　horse　at　all；　a　regular　bolter；　rearer
  and　kicker；　or　I'm　no　judge；　moreover；　he's　pigeon…toed。'　　However；
  we　all　got　on　the　car　…　four　of　us；　and　I　was　of　course
  complimented　with　the　ribbons。　　Well；　we　hadn't　gone　fifty　yards
  before　the　horse；　to　make　my　words　partly　good；　began　to　kick　like
  a　new　'un。　　However；　I　managed　him；　and　he　went　on　for　a　couple　of
  miles　till　we　got　to　the　top　of　the　hill；　just　above　the　descent
  with　the　precipice　on　the　right　hand。　　Here　he　began　to　rear　like　a
  very　devil。
  〃'Oh　dear　me！'　says　Mr　So…and…so；　'let　me　get　out！'
  〃'Keep　where　you　are；'　says　I；　'I　can　manage　him。'
  〃However；　Mr　So…and…so　would　not　be　ruled；　and　got　out；　coming
  down；　not　on　his　legs；　but　his　hands　and　knees。　　And　then　the　two
  others　said　…
  〃'Let　us　get　out！'
  〃'Keep　where　you　are；'　said　I；　'I　can　manage　him。'
  〃But　they　must　needs　get　out；　or　rather　tumble　out；　for　they　both
  came　down　on　the　road；　hard　on　their　backs。
  〃'Get　out　yourself；'　said　they　all；　'and　let　the　devil　go；　or　you
  are　a　done　man。'
  〃'Getting　out　may　do　for　you　young　hands；'　says　I；　'but　it　won't　do
  for　I；　neither　my　back　nor　bones　will　stand　the　hard　road。'
  〃Mr　So…and…so　ran　to　the　horse's　head。
  〃'Are　you　mad？'　says　I；　'if　you　try　to　hold　him　he'll　be　over　the
  pree…si…pice　in　a　twinkling；　and　then　where　am　I？　　Give　him　head；　I
  can　manage　him。'
  〃So　Mr　So…and…so　got　out　of　the　way；　and　down　flew　the　horse　right
  down　the　descent；　as　fast　as　he　could　gallop。　　I　tell　you　what；　I
  didn't　half　like　it！　　A　pree…si…pice　on　my　right；　the　rock　on　my
  left；　and　a　devil　before　me；　going；　like　a　cannon…ball；　right　down
  the　hill。　　However；　I　contrived；　as　I　said　I　would；　to　manage　him；
  kept　the　car　from　the　rock　and　from　the　edge　of　the　gulf　too。
  Well；　just　when　we　had　come　to　the　bottom　of　the　hill　out　comes　the
  people　running　from　the　inn；　almost　covering　the　road。
  〃'Now　get　out　of　the　way；'　I　shouts；　'if　you　don't　wish　to　see　your
  brains　knocked　out；　and　what　would　be　worse；　mine　too。'
  〃So　they　gets　out　of　the　way；　and　on　I　spun；　I　and　my　devil。　　But
  by　this　time　I　had　nearly　taken　the　devil　out　of　him。　　Well；　he
  hadn't　gone　fifty　yards　on　the　level　ground；　when；　what　do　you
  think　he　did？　why；　went　regularly　over；　tumbled　down　regularly　on
  the　road；　even　as　I　knew　he　would　some　time　or　other；　because　why？
  he　was　pigeon…toed。　　Well；　I　gets　out　of　the　gig；　and　no　sooner　did
  Mr　So…and…so　come　up　than　I　says　…
  〃'I　likes　your　car　very　well；　and　I　likes　your　harness；　but　…　me　if
  I　likes　your　horse；　and　it　will　be　some　time　before　you　persuade　me
  to　drive　him　again。'〃
  I　am　a　great　lover　of　horses；　and　an　admirer　of　good　driving；　and
  should　have　wished　to　have　some　conversation　with　this　worthy
  person　about　horses　and　their　management。　　I　should　also　have
  wished　to　ask　him　some　questions　about　Wales　and　the　Welsh；　as　he
  must　have　picked　up　a　great　deal　of　curious　information　about　both
  in　his　forty　years'　traffic；　notwithstanding　he　did　not　know　a　word
  of　Welsh；　but　John　Jones　prevented　my　further　tarrying　by　saying；
  that　it　would　be　as　well　to　get　over　the　mountain　before　it　was
  entirely　dark。　　So　I　got　up；　paid　for　my　ale；　vainly　endeavoured　to
  pay　for　that　of　my　companion；　who　insisted　upon　paying　for　what　he
  had　ordered；　made　a　general　bow　and　de