第 20 节
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blame what was done at that time; under the name of Rebecca。 You
have no idea how the poor Welsh were oppressed by those gates; aye;
and the rich too。 The little people and farmers could not carry
their produce to market owing to the exactions at the gates; which
devoured all the profit and sometimes more。 So that the markets
were not half supplied; and people with money could frequently not
get what they wanted。 Complaints were made to government; which
not being attended to; Rebecca and her byddinion made their
appearance at night; and broke the gates to pieces with sledge…
hammers; and everybody said it was gallant work; everybody save the
keepers of the gates and the proprietors。 Not only the poor but
the rich; said so。 Aye; and I have heard that many a fine young
gentleman had a hand in the work; and went about at night at the
head of a band dressed as Rebecca。 Well; sir; those breakings were
acts of violence; I don't deny; but they did good; for the system
is altered; such impositions are no longer practised at gates as
were before the time of Rebecca。〃
〃Were any people ever taken up and punished for those nocturnal
breakings?〃 said I。
〃No; sir; and I have heard say that nobody's being taken up was a
proof that the rich approved of the work and had a hand in it。〃
Night had come on by the time we reached the foot of the huge hills
we had crossed in the morning。 We toiled up the ascent; and after
crossing the level ground on the top; plunged down the bwlch
between walking and running; occasionally stumbling; for we were
nearly in complete darkness; and the bwlch was steep and stony。 We
more than once passed people who gave us the n's da; the hissing
night salutation of the Welsh。 At length I saw the Abbey looming
amidst the darkness; and John Jones said that; we were just above
the fountain。 We descended; and putting my head down I drank
greedily of the dwr santaidd; my guide following my example。 We
then proceeded on our way; and in about half…an…hour reached
Llangollen。 I took John Jones home with me。 We had a cheerful cup
of tea。 Henrietta played on the guitar; and sang a Spanish song;
to the great delight of John Jones; who at about ten o'clock
departed contented and happy to his own dwelling。
CHAPTER XVII
John Jones and his Bundle … A Good Lady … The Irishman's Dingle …
Ab Gwilym and the Mist … The Kitchen … The Two Individuals … The
Horse…Dealer … I can manage him … The Mist Again。
THE following day was gloomy。 In the evening John Jones made his
appearance with a bundle under his arm; and an umbrella in his
hand。
〃Sir;〃 said he; 〃I am going across the mountain with it piece of
weaving work; for the man on the other side; who employs me。
Perhaps you would like to go with me; as you are fond of walking。〃
〃I suppose;〃 said I; 〃you wish to have my company for fear of
meeting Gwyddelians on the hill。〃
John smiled。
〃Well; sir;〃 said he; 〃if I do meet them I would sooner be with
company than without。 But I dare venture by myself; trusting in
the Man on High; and perhaps I do wrong to ask you to go; as you
must be tired with your walk of yesterday。〃
〃Hardly more than yourself;〃 said I。 〃Come; I shall be glad to go。
What I said about the Gwyddelians was only in jest。〃
As we were about to depart John said:
〃It does not rain at present; sir; but I think it will。 You had
better take an umbrella。〃
I did so; and away we went。 We passed over the bridge; and turning
to the right went by the back of the town through a field。 As we
passed by the Plas Newydd John Jones said:
〃No one lives there now; sir; all dark and dreary; very different
from the state of things when the ladies lived there … all gay then
and cheerful。 I remember the ladies; sir; particularly the last;
who lived by herself after her companion died。 She was a good
lady; and very kind to the poor; when they came to her gate they
were never sent away without something to cheer them。 She was a
grand lady too … kept grand company; and used to be drawn about in
a coach by four horses。 But she too is gone; and the house is cold
and empty; no fire in it; sir; no furniture。 There was an auction
after her death; and a grand auction it was and lasted four days。
Oh; what a throng of people there was; some of whom came from a
great distance to buy the curious things; of which there were
plenty。〃
We passed over a bridge; which crosses a torrent; which descends
from the mountain on the south side of Llangollen; which bridge
John Jones told me was called the bridge of the Melin Bac; or mill
of the nook; from a mill of that name close by。 Continuing our way
we came to a glen; down which the torrent comes which passes under
the bridge。 There was little water in the bed of the torrent; and
we crossed easily enough by stepping…stones。 I looked up the glen;
a wild place enough; its sides overgrown with trees。 Dreary and
dismal it looked in the gloom of the closing evening。 John Jones
said that there was no regular path up it; and that one could only
get along by jumping from stone to stone; at the hazard of breaking
one's legs。 Having passed over the bed of the torrent; we came to
a path; which led up the mountain。 The path was very steep and
stony; the glen with its trees and darkness on our right。 We
proceeded some way。 At length John Jones pointed to a hollow lane
on our right; seemingly leading into the glen。
〃That place; sir;〃 said he; 〃is called Pant y Gwyddel … the
Irishman's dingle; and sometimes Pant Paddy; from the Irish being
fond of taking up their quarters there。 It was just here; at the
entrance of the pant; that the tribe were encamped; when I passed
two months ago at night; in returning from the other side of the
hill with ten shillings in my pocket; which I had been paid for a
piece of my work; which I had carried over the mountain to the very
place where I am now carrying this。 I shall never forget the
fright I was in; both on account of my life; and my ten shillings。
I ran down what remained of the hill as fast as I could; not
minding the stones。 Should I meet a tribe now on my return I shall
not run; you will be with me; and I shall not fear for my life nor
for my money; which will be now more than ten shillings; provided
the man over the hills pays me; as I have no doubt he will。〃
As we ascended higher we gradually diverged from the glen; though
we did not lose sight of it till we reached the top of the
mountain。 The top was nearly level。 On our right were a few
fields enclosed with stone walls。 On our left was an open space
where whin; furze and heath were growing。 We passed over the
summit; and began to descend by a tolerably good; though steep
road。 But for the darkness of evening and a drizzling mist; which;
for some time past; had been coming on; we should have enjoyed a
glorious prospect down into the valley; or perhaps I should say
that I should have enjoyed a glorious prospect; for John Jones;
like a true mountaineer; cared not a brass farthing for prospects。
Even as it was; noble glimpses of wood and rock were occasionally
to be obtained。 The mist soon wetted us to the skin
notwithstanding that we put up our umbrellas。 It was a regular
Welsh mist; a niwl; like that in which the great poet Ab Gwilym
lost his way; whilst trying to keep an assignation with his beloved
Morfydd; and which he abuses in the following manner:…
〃O ho! thou villain mist; O ho!
What plea hast thou to plague me so?
I scarcely know a scurril name;
But dearly thou deserv'st the same;
Thou exhalation from the deep
Unknown; where ugly spirits keep!
Thou smoke from hellish stews uphurl'd
To mock and mortify the world!
Thou spider…web of giant race;
Spun out and spread through airy space!
Avaunt; thou filthy; clammy thing;
Of sorry rain the source and spring!
Moist blanket dripping misery down;
Loathed alike by land and town!
Thou watery monster; wan to see;
Intruding 'twixt the sun and me;
To rob me of my blessed right;
To turn my day to dismal night。
Parent of thieves and patron best;
They brave pursuit within thy breast!
Mostly from thee its merciless snow
Grim January doth glean; I trow。
Pass off with speed; thou prowler pale;
Holding along o'er hill and dale;
Spilling a noxious spittle round;
Spoiling the fairies' sporting ground!
Move off to hell; mysterious haze;
Wherein deceitful meteors blaze;
Thou wild of vapour; vast; o'ergrown;
Huge as the ocean of unknown。〃
As we descended; the path became more steep; it was particularly so
at a part where it was overshadowed with trees on both sides。
Here; finding walking very uncomfortable; my knees suffering much;
I determined to run。 So shouting to John Jones; 〃Nis gallav
gerdded rhaid rhedeg;〃 I set off running down the pass。 My
companion followed close behind; and luckily meeting no mischance;
we presently found ourselves on level ground; amongst a collection
of small houses。 On our turning a corner a church appeared on our
left hand on the slope of the hill。 In the churchyard; and c