第 17 节
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to be alone; there was something singular about her; and I believe
that she had a history of her own。 After showing us the ruins she
conducted us to a cottage in which she lived; it stood behind the
ruins by a fish…pond; in a beautiful and romantic place enough; she
said that in the winter she went away; but to what place she did
not say。 She asked us whether we came walking; and on our telling
her that we did; she said that she would point out to us a near way
home。 She then pointed to a path up a hill; telling us we must
follow it。 After making her a present we bade her farewell; and
passing through a meadow crossed a brook by a rustic bridge; formed
of the stem of a tree; and ascending the hill by the path which she
had pointed out; we went through a cornfield or two on its top; and
at last found ourselves on the Llangollen road; after a most
beautiful walk。
CHAPTER XIV
Expedition to Ruthyn … The Column … Slate Quarries … The Gwyddelod
… Nocturnal Adventure。
NOTHING worthy of commemoration took place during the two following
days; save that myself and family took an evening walk on the
Wednesday up the side of the Berwyn; for the purpose of botanizing;
in which we were attended by John Jones。 There; amongst other
plants; we found a curious moss which our good friend said was
called in Welsh; Corn Carw; or deer's horn; and which he said the
deer were very fond of。 On the Thursday he and I started on an
expedition on foot to Ruthyn; distant about fourteen miles;
proposing to return in the evening。
The town and castle of Ruthyn possessed great interest for me from
being connected with the affairs of Owen Glendower。 It was at
Ruthyn that the first and not the least remarkable scene of the
Welsh insurrection took place by Owen making his appearance at the
fair held there in fourteen hundred; plundering the English who had
come with their goods; slaying many of them; sacking the town and
concluding his day's work by firing it; and it was at the castle of
Ruthyn that Lord Grey dwelt; a minion of Henry the Fourth and
Glendower's deadliest enemy; and who was the principal cause of the
chieftain's entering into rebellion; having; in the hope of
obtaining his estates in the vale of Clwyd; poisoned the mind of
Harry against him; who proclaimed him a traitor; before he had
committed any act of treason; and confiscated his estates;
bestowing that part of them upon his favourite; which the latter
was desirous of obtaining。
We started on our expedition at about seven o'clock of a brilliant
morning。 We passed by the abbey and presently came to a small
fountain with a little stone edifice; with a sharp top above it。
〃That is the holy well;〃 said my guide: 〃Llawer iawn o barch yn yr
amser yr Pabyddion yr oedd i'r fynnon hwn … much respect in the
times of the Papists there was to this fountain。〃
〃I heard of it;〃 said I; 〃and tasted of its water the other evening
at the abbey;〃 shortly after we saw a tall stone standing in a
field on our right hand at about a hundred yards' distance from the
road。 〃That is the pillar of Eliseg; sir;〃 said my guide。 〃Let us
go and see it;〃 said I。 We soon reached the stone。 It is a fine
upright column about seven feet high; and stands on a quadrate
base。 〃Sir;〃 said my guide; 〃a dead king lies buried beneath this
stone。 He was a mighty man of valour and founded the abbey。 He
was called Eliseg。〃 〃Perhaps Ellis;〃 said I; 〃and if his name was
Ellis the stone was very properly called Colofn Eliseg; in Saxon
the Ellisian column。〃 The view from the column is very beautiful;
below on the south…east is the venerable abbey; slumbering in its
green meadow。 Beyond it runs a stream; descending from the top of
a glen; at the bottom of which the old pile is situated; beyond the
stream is a lofty hill。 The glen on the north is bounded by a
noble mountain; covered with wood。 Struck with its beauty I
inquired its name。 〃Moel Eglwysig; sir;〃 said my guide。 〃The Moel
of the Church;〃 said I。 〃That is hardly a good name for it; for
the hill is not bald (moel)。〃 〃True; sir;〃 said John Jones。 〃At
present its name is good for nothing; but estalom (of old) before
the hill was planted with trees its name was good enough。 Our
fathers were not fools when they named their hills。〃 〃I daresay
not;〃 said I; 〃nor in many other things which they did; for which
we laugh at them; because we do not know the reasons they had for
doing them。〃 We regained the road; the road tended to the north up
a steep ascent。 I asked John Jones the name of a beautiful
village; which lay far away on our right; over the glen; and near
its top。 〃Pentref y dwr; sir〃 (the village of the water)。 It is
called the village of the water; because the river below comes down
through part of it。 I next asked the name of the hill up which we
were going; and he told me Allt Bwlch; that is; the high place of
the hollow road。
This bwlch; or hollow way; was a regular pass; which put me
wonderfully in mind of the passes of Spain。 It took us a long time
to get to the top。 After resting a minute on the summit we began
to descend。 My guide pointed out to me some slate…works; at some
distance on our left。 〃There is a great deal of work going on
there; sir;〃 said he: 〃all the slates that you see descending the
canal at Llangollen came from there。〃 The next moment we heard a
blast; and then a thundering sound: 〃Llais craig yn syrthiaw; the
voice of the rock in falling; sir;〃 said John Jones; 〃blasting is
dangerous and awful work。〃 We reached the bottom of the descent;
and proceeded for two or three miles up and down a rough and narrow
road; I then turned round and looked at the hills which we had
passed over。 They looked bulky and huge。
We continued our way; and presently saw marks of a fire in some
grass by the side of the road。 〃Have the Gipsiaid been there?〃
said I to my guide。
〃Hardly; sir; I should rather think that the Gwyddelaid (Irish)
have been camping there lately。〃
〃The Gwyddeliad?〃
〃Yes; sir; the vagabond Gwyddeliad; who at present infest these
parts much; and do much more harm than the Gipsiaid ever did。〃
〃What do you mean by the Gipsiaid?〃
〃Dark; handsome people; sir; who occasionally used to come about in
vans and carts; the men buying and selling horses; and sometimes
tinkering; whilst the women told fortunes。〃
〃And they have ceased to come about?〃
〃Nearly so; sir; I believe they have been frightened away by the
Gwyddelod。〃
〃What kind of people are these Gwyddelod?
〃Savage; brutish people; sir; in general without shoes and
stockings; with coarse features and heads of hair like mops。〃
〃How do they live?〃
〃The men tinker a little; sir; but more frequently plunder。 The
women tell fortunes; and steal whenever they can。〃
〃They live something like the Gipsiaid。〃
〃Something; sir; but the hen Gipsiaid were gentlefolks in
comparison。〃
〃You think the Gipsiaid have been frightened away by the
Gwyddelians?〃
〃I do; sir; the Gwyddelod made their appearance in these parts
about twenty years ago; and since then the Gipsiaid have been
rarely seen。〃
〃Are these Gwyddelod poor?〃
〃By no means; sir; they make large sums by plundering and other
means; with which; 'tis said; they retire at last to their own
country or America; where they buy land and settle down。〃
〃What language do they speak?〃
〃English; sir; they pride themselves on speaking good English; that
is to the Welsh。 Amongst themselves they discourse in their own
Paddy Gwyddel。〃
〃Have they no Welsh?〃
〃Only a few words; sir; I never heard one of them speaking Welsh;
save a young girl … she fell sick by the roadside as she was
wandering by herself … some people at a farmhouse took her in; and
tended her till she was well。 During her sickness she took a fancy
to their quiet way of life; and when she was recovered she begged
to stay with them and serve them。 They consented; she became a
very good servant; and hearing nothing but Welsh spoken; soon
picked up the tongue。〃
〃Do you know what became of her?〃
〃I do; sir; her own people found her out; and wished to take her
away with them; but she refused to let them; for by that time she
was perfectly reclaimed; had been to chapel; renounced her heathen
crefydd; and formed an acquaintance with a young Methodist who had
a great gift of prayer; whom she afterwards married … she and her
husband live at present not far from Mineira。〃
〃I almost wonder that her own people did not kill her。〃
〃They threatened to do so; sir; and would doubtless have put their
threat into execution; had they not been prevented by the Man on
High。〃
And here my guide pointed with his finger reverently upward。
〃Is it a long time since you have seen any of these Gwyddeliaid?〃
〃About two months; sir; and then a terrible fright they caused me。〃
〃How was that?〃
〃I will tell you; sir; I had been across the Berwyn to carry home a
piece of weaving work to a person who employs me。 It was night as
I returned; and when I was about halfway down the h