第 17 节
作者:随便看看      更新:2021-02-25 00:46      字数:9322
  to be alone; there was something singular about her; and I believe
  that she had a history of her own。  After showing us the ruins she
  conducted us to a cottage in which she lived; it stood behind the
  ruins by a fish…pond; in a beautiful and romantic place enough; she
  said that in the winter she went away; but to what place she did
  not say。  She asked us whether we came walking; and on our telling
  her that we did; she said that she would point out to us a near way
  home。  She then pointed to a path up a hill; telling us we must
  follow it。  After making her a present we bade her farewell; and
  passing through a meadow crossed a brook by a rustic bridge; formed
  of the stem of a tree; and ascending the hill by the path which she
  had pointed out; we went through a cornfield or two on its top; and
  at last found ourselves on the Llangollen road; after a most
  beautiful walk。
  CHAPTER XIV
  Expedition to Ruthyn … The Column … Slate Quarries … The Gwyddelod
  … Nocturnal Adventure。
  NOTHING worthy of commemoration took place during the two following
  days; save that myself and family took an evening walk on the
  Wednesday up the side of the Berwyn; for the purpose of botanizing;
  in which we were attended by John Jones。  There; amongst other
  plants; we found a curious moss which our good friend said was
  called in Welsh; Corn Carw; or deer's horn; and which he said the
  deer were very fond of。  On the Thursday he and I started on an
  expedition on foot to Ruthyn; distant about fourteen miles;
  proposing to return in the evening。
  The town and castle of Ruthyn possessed great interest for me from
  being connected with the affairs of Owen Glendower。  It was at
  Ruthyn that the first and not the least remarkable scene of the
  Welsh insurrection took place by Owen making his appearance at the
  fair held there in fourteen hundred; plundering the English who had
  come with their goods; slaying many of them; sacking the town and
  concluding his day's work by firing it; and it was at the castle of
  Ruthyn that Lord Grey dwelt; a minion of Henry the Fourth and
  Glendower's deadliest enemy; and who was the principal cause of the
  chieftain's entering into rebellion; having; in the hope of
  obtaining his estates in the vale of Clwyd; poisoned the mind of
  Harry against him; who proclaimed him a traitor; before he had
  committed any act of treason; and confiscated his estates;
  bestowing that part of them upon his favourite; which the latter
  was desirous of obtaining。
  We started on our expedition at about seven o'clock of a brilliant
  morning。  We passed by the abbey and presently came to a small
  fountain with a little stone edifice; with a sharp top above it。
  〃That is the holy well;〃 said my guide:  〃Llawer iawn o barch yn yr
  amser yr Pabyddion yr oedd i'r fynnon hwn … much respect in the
  times of the Papists there was to this fountain。〃
  〃I heard of it;〃 said I; 〃and tasted of its water the other evening
  at the abbey;〃 shortly after we saw a tall stone standing in a
  field on our right hand at about a hundred yards' distance from the
  road。  〃That is the pillar of Eliseg; sir;〃 said my guide。  〃Let us
  go and see it;〃 said I。  We soon reached the stone。  It is a fine
  upright column about seven feet high; and stands on a quadrate
  base。  〃Sir;〃 said my guide; 〃a dead king lies buried beneath this
  stone。  He was a mighty man of valour and founded the abbey。  He
  was called Eliseg。〃  〃Perhaps Ellis;〃 said I; 〃and if his name was
  Ellis the stone was very properly called Colofn Eliseg; in Saxon
  the Ellisian column。〃  The view from the column is very beautiful;
  below on the south…east is the venerable abbey; slumbering in its
  green meadow。  Beyond it runs a stream; descending from the top of
  a glen; at the bottom of which the old pile is situated; beyond the
  stream is a lofty hill。  The glen on the north is bounded by a
  noble mountain; covered with wood。  Struck with its beauty I
  inquired its name。  〃Moel Eglwysig; sir;〃 said my guide。  〃The Moel
  of the Church;〃 said I。  〃That is hardly a good name for it; for
  the hill is not bald (moel)。〃  〃True; sir;〃 said John Jones。  〃At
  present its name is good for nothing; but estalom (of old) before
  the hill was planted with trees its name was good enough。  Our
  fathers were not fools when they named their hills。〃  〃I daresay
  not;〃 said I; 〃nor in many other things which they did; for which
  we laugh at them; because we do not know the reasons they had for
  doing them。〃  We regained the road; the road tended to the north up
  a steep ascent。  I asked John Jones the name of a beautiful
  village; which lay far away on our right; over the glen; and near
  its top。  〃Pentref y dwr; sir〃 (the village of the water)。  It is
  called the village of the water; because the river below comes down
  through part of it。  I next asked the name of the hill up which we
  were going; and he told me Allt Bwlch; that is; the high place of
  the hollow road。
  This bwlch; or hollow way; was a regular pass; which put me
  wonderfully in mind of the passes of Spain。  It took us a long time
  to get to the top。  After resting a minute on the summit we began
  to descend。  My guide pointed out to me some slate…works; at some
  distance on our left。  〃There is a great deal of work going on
  there; sir;〃 said he:  〃all the slates that you see descending the
  canal at Llangollen came from there。〃  The next moment we heard a
  blast; and then a thundering sound:  〃Llais craig yn syrthiaw; the
  voice of the rock in falling; sir;〃 said John Jones; 〃blasting is
  dangerous and awful work。〃  We reached the bottom of the descent;
  and proceeded for two or three miles up and down a rough and narrow
  road; I then turned round and looked at the hills which we had
  passed over。  They looked bulky and huge。
  We continued our way; and presently saw marks of a fire in some
  grass by the side of the road。  〃Have the Gipsiaid been there?〃
  said I to my guide。
  〃Hardly; sir; I should rather think that the Gwyddelaid (Irish)
  have been camping there lately。〃
  〃The Gwyddeliad?〃
  〃Yes; sir; the vagabond Gwyddeliad; who at present infest these
  parts much; and do much more harm than the Gipsiaid ever did。〃
  〃What do you mean by the Gipsiaid?〃
  〃Dark; handsome people; sir; who occasionally used to come about in
  vans and carts; the men buying and selling horses; and sometimes
  tinkering; whilst the women told fortunes。〃
  〃And they have ceased to come about?〃
  〃Nearly so; sir; I believe they have been frightened away by the
  Gwyddelod。〃
  〃What kind of people are these Gwyddelod?
  〃Savage; brutish people; sir; in general without shoes and
  stockings; with coarse features and heads of hair like mops。〃
  〃How do they live?〃
  〃The men tinker a little; sir; but more frequently plunder。  The
  women tell fortunes; and steal whenever they can。〃
  〃They live something like the Gipsiaid。〃
  〃Something; sir; but the hen Gipsiaid were gentlefolks in
  comparison。〃
  〃You think the Gipsiaid have been frightened away by the
  Gwyddelians?〃
  〃I do; sir; the Gwyddelod made their appearance in these parts
  about twenty years ago; and since then the Gipsiaid have been
  rarely seen。〃
  〃Are these Gwyddelod poor?〃
  〃By no means; sir; they make large sums by plundering and other
  means; with which; 'tis said; they retire at last to their own
  country or America; where they buy land and settle down。〃
  〃What language do they speak?〃
  〃English; sir; they pride themselves on speaking good English; that
  is to the Welsh。  Amongst themselves they discourse in their own
  Paddy Gwyddel。〃
  〃Have they no Welsh?〃
  〃Only a few words; sir; I never heard one of them speaking Welsh;
  save a young girl … she fell sick by the roadside as she was
  wandering by herself … some people at a farmhouse took her in; and
  tended her till she was well。  During her sickness she took a fancy
  to their quiet way of life; and when she was recovered she begged
  to stay with them and serve them。  They consented; she became a
  very good servant; and hearing nothing but Welsh spoken; soon
  picked up the tongue。〃
  〃Do you know what became of her?〃
  〃I do; sir; her own people found her out; and wished to take her
  away with them; but she refused to let them; for by that time she
  was perfectly reclaimed; had been to chapel; renounced her heathen
  crefydd; and formed an acquaintance with a young Methodist who had
  a great gift of prayer; whom she afterwards married … she and her
  husband live at present not far from Mineira。〃
  〃I almost wonder that her own people did not kill her。〃
  〃They threatened to do so; sir; and would doubtless have put their
  threat into execution; had they not been prevented by the Man on
  High。〃
  And here my guide pointed with his finger reverently upward。
  〃Is it a long time since you have seen any of these Gwyddeliaid?〃
  〃About two months; sir; and then a terrible fright they caused me。〃
  〃How was that?〃
  〃I will tell you; sir; I had been across the Berwyn to carry home a
  piece of weaving work to a person who employs me。  It was night as
  I returned; and when I was about halfway down the h