think　is　the　meaning　in　Saxon　of　Pont　y　Cyssylltau。〃
  We　set　out；　my　guide　conducted　me　along　the　bank　of　the　Camlas　in
  the　direction　of　Rhiwabon；　that　is　towards　the　east。　　On　the　way　we
  discoursed　on　various　subjects；　and　understood　each　other　tolerably
  well。　　I　asked　if　he　had　been　anything　besides　a　weaver。　　He　told
  me　that　when　a　boy　he　kept　sheep　on　the　mountain。　　〃Why　did　you　not
  go　on　keeping　sheep？〃　said　〃I　would　rather　keep　sheep　than　weave。〃
  〃My　parents　wanted　me　at　home；　sir；〃　said　he；　〃and　I　was　not　sorry
  to　go　home；　I　earned　little；　and　lived　badly。〃
  〃A　shepherd；〃　said　I；　〃can　earn　more　than　five　shillings　a　week。〃
  〃I　was　never　a　regular　shepherd；　sir；〃　said　he。　　〃But；　sir；　I　would
  rather　be　a　weaver　with　five　shillings　a　week　in　Llangollen；　than　a
  shepherd　with　fifteen　on　the　mountain。　　The　life　of　a　shepherd；
  sir；　is　perhaps　not　exactly　what　you　and　some　other　gentlefolks
  think。　　The　shepherd　bears　much　cold　and　wet；　sir；　and　he　is　very
  lonely；　no　society　save　his　sheep　and　dog。　　Then；　sir；　he　has　no
  privileges。　　I　mean　gospel　privileges。　　He　does　not　look　forward　to
  Dydd　Sul；　as　a　day　of　llawenydd；　of　joy　and　triumph；　as　the　weaver
  does；　that　is　if　he　is　religiously　disposed。　　The　shepherd　has　no
  chapel；　sir；　like　the　weaver。　　Oh；　sir；　I　say　again　that　I　would
  rather　be　a　weaver　in　Llangollen　with　five　shillings　a　week；　than　a
  shepherd　on　the　hill　with　fifteen。〃
  〃Do　you　mean　to　say；〃　said　I；　〃that　you　live　with　your　family　on
  five　shillings　a　week？〃
  〃No；　sir。　　I　frequently　do　little　commissions　by　which　I　earn
  something。　　Then；　sir；　I　have　friends；　very　good　friends。　　A　good
  lady　of　our　congregation　sent　me　this　morning　half…a…pound　of
  butter。　　The　people　of　our　congregation　are　very　kind　to　each
  other；　sir。〃
  〃That　is　more；〃　thought　I　to　myself；　〃than　the　people　of　my
  congregation　are；　they　are　always　cutting　each　other's　throats。〃　　I
  next　asked　if　he　had　been　much　about　Wales。
  〃Not　much；　sir。　　However；　I　have　been　to　Pen　Caer　Gybi；　which　you
  call　Holy　Head；　and　to　Beth　Gelert；　sir。〃
  〃What　took　you　to　those　places？〃
  〃I　was　sent　to　those　places　on　business；　sir；　as　I　told　you　before；
  sir；　I　sometimes　execute　commissions。　　At　Beth　Gelert　I　stayed　some
  time。　　It　was　there　I　married；　sir；　my　wife　comes　from　a　place
  called　Dol　Gellyn　near　Beth　Gelert。〃
  〃What　was　her　name？〃
  〃Her　name　was　Jones；　sir。〃
  〃What；　before　she　married？〃
  〃Yes；　sir；　before　she　married。　　You　need　not　be　surprised；　sir；
  there　are　plenty　of　the　name　of　Jones　in　Wales。　　The　name　of　my
  brother's　wife；　before　she　married；　was　also　Jones。〃
  〃Your　brother　is　a　clever　man；〃　said　I。
  〃Yes；　sir；　for　a　Cumro　he　is　clebber　enough。〃
  〃For　a　Cumro？〃
  〃Yes；　sir；　he　is　not　a　Saxon；　you　know。〃
  〃Are　Saxons　then　so　very　clever？〃
  〃Oh　yes；　sir；　who　so　clebber？　　The　clebberest　people　in　Llangollen
  are　Saxons；　that　is；　at　carnal　things　…　for　at　spiritual　things　I
  do　not　think　them　at　all　clebber。　　Look　at　Mr　A。；　sir。〃
  〃Who　is　he？〃
  〃Do　you　not　know　him；　sir？　　I　thought　everybody　knew　Mr　A。　　He　is　a
  Saxon；　sir；　and　keeps　the　inn　on　the　road　a　little　way　below　where
  you　live。　　He　is　the　clebberest　man　in　Llangollen；　sir。　　He　can　do
  everything。　　He　is　a　great　cook；　and　can　wash　clothes　better　than
  any　woman。　　Oh；　sir；　for　carnal　things；　who　so　clebber　as　your
  countrymen！〃
  After　walking　about　four　miles　by　the　side　of　the　canal　we　left　it；
  and　bearing　to　the　right　presently　came　to　the　aqueduct；　which
  strode　over　a　deep　and　narrow　valley；　at　the　bottom　of　which　ran
  the　Dee。　　〃This　is　the　Pont　y　Cysswllt；　sir；〃　said　my　guide；　〃it's
  the　finest　bridge　in　the　world；　and　no　wonder；　if　what　the　common
  people　say　be　true；　namely　that　every　stone　cost　a　golden
  sovereign。〃
  We　went　along　it；　the　height　was　awful。　　My　guide；　though　he　had
  been　a　mountain　shepherd；　confessed　that　he　was　somewhat　afraid。
  〃It　gives　me　the　pendro；　sir；〃　said　he；　〃to　look　down。〃　　I　too　felt
  somewhat　dizzy；　as　I　looked　over　the　parapet　into　the　glen。　　The
  canal　which　this　mighty　bridge　carries　across　the　gulf　is　about
  nine　feet　wide；　and　occupies　about　two…thirds　of　the　width　of　the
  bridge　and　the　entire　western　side。　　The　footway　is　towards　the
  east。　　From　about　the　middle　of　the　bridge　there　is　a　fine　view　of
  the　forges　on　the　Cefn　Bach　and　also　of　a　huge　hill　near　it　called
  the　Cefn　Mawr。　　We　reached　the　termination；　and　presently　crossing
  the　canal　by　a　little　wooden　bridge　we　came　to　a　village。　　My　guide
  then　said；　〃If　you　please；　sir；　we　will　return　by　the　old　bridge；
  which　leads　across　the　Dee　in　the　bottom　of　the　vale。〃　　He　then　led
  me　by　a　romantic　road　to　a　bridge　on　the　west　of　the　aqueduct；　and
  far　below。　　It　seemed　very　ancient。　　〃This　is　the　old　bridge；　sir；〃
  said　my　guide；　〃it　was　built　a　hundred　years　before　the　Pont　y
  Cysswllt　was　dreamt　of。〃　　We　now　walked　to　the　west；　in　the
  direction　of　Llangollen；　along　the　bank　of　the　river。　　Presently　we
  arrived　where　the　river；　after　making　a　bend；　formed　a　pool。　　It
  was　shaded　by　lofty　trees；　and　to　all　appearance　was　exceedingly
  deep。　　I　stopped　to　look　at　it；　for　I　was　struck　with　its　gloomy
  horror。　　〃That　pool；　sir；〃　said　John　Jones；　〃is　called　Llyn　y
  Meddwyn；　the　drunkard's　pool。　　It　is　called　so；　sir；　because　a
  drunken　man　once　fell　into　it；　and　was　drowned。　　There　is　no　deeper
  pool　in　the　Dee；　sir；　save　one；　a　little　below　Llangollen；　which　is
  called　the　pool　of　Catherine　Lingo。　　A　girl　of　that　name　fell　into
  it；　whilst　gathering　sticks　on　the　high　bank　above　it。　　She　was
  drowned；　and　the　pool　was　named　after　her。　　I　never　look　at　either
  without　shuddering；　thinking　how　certainly　I　should　be　drowned　if　I
  fell　in；　for　I　cannot　swim；　sir。〃
  〃You　should　have　learnt　to　swim　when　you　were　young；〃　said　I；　〃and
  to　dive　too。　　I　know　one　who　has　brought　up　stones　from　the　bottom；
  I　daresay；　of　deeper　pools　than　either；　but　he　was　a　Saxon；　and　at
  carnal　things；　you　know；　none　so　clebber　as　the　Saxons。〃
  I　found　my　guide　a　first…rate　walker　and　a　good　botanist；　knowing
  the　names　of　all　the　plants　and　trees　in　Welsh。　　By　the　time　we
  returned　to　Llangollen　I　had　formed　a　very　high　opinion　of　him；　in
  which　I　was　subsequently　confirmed　by　what　I　saw　of　him　during　the
  period　of　our　acquaintance；　which　was　of　some　duration。　　He　was
  very　honest；　disinterested；　and　exceedingly　good…humoured。　　It　is
  true；　he　had　his　little　skits　occasionally　at　the　Church；　and
  showed　some　marks　of　hostility　to　the　church　cat；　more　especially
  when　he　saw　it　mounted　on　my　shoulders；　for　the　creature　soon　began
  to　take　liberties；　and　in　less　than　a　week　after　my　arrival　at　the
  cottage；　generally　mounted　on　my　back；　when　it　saw　me　reading　or
  writing；　for　the　sake　of　the　warmth。　　But　setting　aside　those　same
  skits　at　the　Church；　and　that　dislike　of　the　church　cat；　venial
  trifles　after　all；　and　easily　to　be　accounted　for；　on　the　score　of
  his　religious　education；　I　found　nothing　to　blame；　and　much　to
  admire；　in　John　Jones；　the　Calvinistic　Methodist　of　Llangollen。
  CHAPTER　XIII
  Divine　Service　…　Llangollen　Bells　…　Iolo　Goch　…　The　Abbey　…　Twm　o'r
  Nant　…　Holy　Well　…　Thomas　Edwards
  SUNDAY　arrived　…　a　Sunday　of　unclouded　sunshine。　　We　attended
  Divine　service　at　church　in　the　morning。　　The　congregation　was　very
  numerous；　but　to　all　appearance　consisted　almost　entirely　of
  English　visitors；　like　ourselves。　　There　were　two　officiating
  clergymen；　father　and　son。　　They　both　sat　in　a　kind　of　oblong
  pulpit　on　the　southern　side　of　the　church；　at　a　little　distance
  below　the　altar。　　The　service　was　in　English；　and　the　elder
  gentleman　preached；　there　was　good　singing　and　chanting。
  After　dinner　I　sat　in　an　arbour　in　the　perllan；　thinking　of　many
  things；　amongst　others；　spiritual。　　Whilst　thus　engaged；　the　sound
  of　the　church　bells　calling　people　to　afternoon　service　came　upon
  my　ears。　　I　listened；　and　thought　I　had　never　heard　bells　with　so
  sweet　a　sound。　　I　had　heard　them　in　the　morning；　but　without　paying
  much　attention　to　them；　but　as　I　now　sat　in　the　umbrageous　arbour；
  I　was　particularly　struck　with　them。　　Oh　how　sweetly　their　voice
  mingled　with　the　low　rush　of　the　river；　at　the　bottom　of　the
  perllan。　　I　subsequently　found　that　the　bells　of　Llangollen　were
  celebrated　for　their　sweetness。　　Their　merit　indeed　has　even　been
  admitted　by　an　enemy；　for　a　poet　of　the　Calvinistic　Methodist
  persuasion；　one　who　calls　himself　Einion　Du；　in　a　very　beautiful
  ode；　commencing　with　…
  〃Tangnefedd　i　Llangollen；〃
  says　that　in　no　part　of　the　world　do　bells　call　people　so　sweetly
  to　church　as　those　of　Llangollen　town。
  In　the　evening；　at　about　half…past　six；　I　attended　service　again；
  but　without　my　family。　　This　time　the　congregation　was　not
  numerous；　and　was　composed　principally　of　poor　people。　　The　service
  and　sermon　were　now　in　Welsh；　the　sermon　was　preached　by　the
  younger　gentleman；　and　was　on　the　building　of　the　second　temple；
  and；　as　far　as　I　understood　it；　appeared　to　me　to　be　exceedingly
  good。
  On　the　Monday　evening；　myself　and　family　took　a　walk　to　the　abbey。
  My　wife　and　daughter；　who