第 13 节
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liked the Welsh very much; and was particularly fond of their
language。 He asked me whether I could read Welsh; and on my
telling him I could; he said that if I would walk in he would show
me a Welsh book。 I went with him and his wife into a neat kind of
kitchen; flagged with stone; where were several young people; their
children。 I spoke some Welsh to them which appeared to give them
great satisfaction。 The man went to a shelf and taking down a book
put it into my hand。 It was a Welsh book; and the title of it in
English was 〃Evening Work of the Welsh。〃 It contained the lives of
illustrious Welshmen; commencing with that of Cadwalader。 I read a
page of it aloud; while the family stood round and wondered to hear
a Saxon read their language。 I entered into discourse with the man
about Welsh poetry and repeated the famous prophecy of Taliesin
about the Coiling Serpent。 I asked him if the Welsh had any poets
at the present day。 〃Plenty;〃 said he; 〃and good ones … Wales can
never be without a poet。〃 Then after a pause he said; that he was
the grandson of a great poet。
〃Do you bear his name?〃 said I。
〃I do;〃 he replied。
〃What may it be?〃
〃Hughes;〃 he answered。
〃Two of the name of Hughes have been poets;〃 said I … 〃one was Huw
Hughes; generally termed the Bardd Coch; or red bard; he was an
Anglesea man; and the friend of Lewis Morris and Gronwy Owen … the
other was Jonathan Hughes; where he lived I know not。〃
〃He lived here; in this very house;〃 said the man。 〃Jonathan
Hughes was my grandfather!〃 and as he spoke his eyes flashed fire。
〃Dear me!〃 said I; 〃I read some of his pieces thirty…two years ago
when I was a lad in England。 I think I can repeat some of the
lines。〃 I then repeated a quartet which I chanced to remember。
〃Ah!〃 said the man; 〃I see you know his poetry。 Come into the next
room and I will show you his chair。〃 He led me into a sleeping…
room on the right hand; where in a corner he showed me an antique
three…cornered arm…chair。 〃That chair;〃 said he; 〃my grandsire won
at Llangollen; at an Eisteddfod of Bards。 Various bards recited
their poetry; but my grandfather won the prize。 Ah; he was a good
poet。 He also won a prize of fifteen guineas at a meeting of bards
in London。〃
We returned to the kitchen; where I found the good woman of the
house waiting with a plate of bread…and…butter in one hand; and a
glass of buttermilk in the other … she pressed me to partake of
both … I drank some of the buttermilk; which was excellent; and
after a little more discourse shook the kind people by the hand and
thanked them for their hospitality。 As I was about to depart the
man said that I should find the lane farther up very wet; and that
I had better mount through a field at the back of the house。 He
took me to a gate; which he opened; and then pointed out the way
which I must pursue。 As I went away he said that both he and his
family should be always happy to see me at Ty yn y Pistyll; which
words; interpreted; are the house by the spout of water。
I went up the field with the lane on my right; down which ran a
runnel of water; from which doubtless the house derived its name。
I soon came to an unenclosed part of the mountain covered with
gorse and whin; and still proceeding upward reached a road; which I
subsequently learned was the main road from Llangollen over the
hill。 I was not long in gaining the top which was nearly level。
Here I stood for some time looking about me; having the vale of
Llangollen to the north of me; and a deep valley abounding with
woods and rocks to the south。
Following the road to the south; which gradually descended; I soon
came to a place where a road diverged from the straight one to the
left。 As the left…hand road appeared to lead down a romantic
valley I followed it。 The scenery was beautiful … steep hills on
each side。 On the right was a deep ravine; down which ran a brook;
the hill beyond it was covered towards the top with a wood;
apparently of oak; between which and the ravine were small green
fields。 Both sides of the ravine were fringed with trees; chiefly
ash。 I descended the road which was zigzag and steep; and at last
arrived at the bottom of the valley; where there was a small
hamlet。 On the further side of the valley to the east was a steep
hill on which were a few houses … at the foot of the hill was a
brook crossed by an antique bridge of a single arch。 I directed my
course to the bridge; and after looking over the parapet for a
minute or two upon the water below; which was shallow and noisy;
ascended a road which led up the hill: a few scattered houses were
on each side。 I soon reached the top of the hill; where were some
more houses; those which I had seen from the valley below。 I was
in a Welsh mountain village; which put me much in mind of the
villages which I had strolled through of old in Castile and La
Mancha; there were the same silence and desolation here as yonder
away … the houses were built of the same material; namely stone。 I
should perhaps have fancied myself for a moment in a Castilian or
Manchegan mountain pueblicito; but for the abundance of trees which
met my eye on every side。
In walking up this mountain village I saw no one; and heard no
sound but the echo of my steps amongst the houses。 As I returned;
however; I saw a man standing at a door … he was a short figure;
about fifty。 He had an old hat on his head; a stick in his hand;
and was dressed in a duffel greatcoat。
〃Good…day; friend;〃 said I; 〃what be the name of this place?〃
〃Pont Fadog; sir; is its name; for want of a better。〃
〃That's a fine name;〃 said I; 〃it signifies in English the bridge
of Madoc。〃
〃Just so; sir; I see you know Welsh。〃
〃And I see you know English;〃 said I。
〃Very little; sir; I can read English much better than I can speak
it。〃
〃So can I Welsh;〃 said I。 〃I suppose the village is named after
the bridge。〃
〃No doubt it is; sir。〃
〃And why was the bridge called the bridge of Madoc?〃 said I。
〃Because one Madoc built it; sir。〃
〃Was he the son of Owain Gwynedd?〃 said I。
〃Ah; I see you know all about Wales; sir。 Yes; sir; he built it;
or I daresay he built it; Madawg ap Owain Gwynedd。 I have read
much about him … he was a great sailor; sir; and was the first to
discover Tir y Gorllewin or America。 Not many years ago his tomb
was discovered there with an inscription in old Welsh … saying who
he was; and how he loved the sea。 I have seen the lines which were
found on the tomb。〃
〃So have I;〃 said I; 〃or at least those which were said to be found
on a tomb: they run thus in English:…
〃'Here; after sailing far I Madoc lie;
Of Owain Gwynedd lawful progeny:
The verdant land had little charms for me;
From earliest youth I loved the dark…blue sea。'〃
〃Ah; sir;〃 said the man; 〃I see you know all about the son of Owain
Gwynedd。 Well; sir; those lines; or something like them; were
found upon the tomb of Madoc in America。〃
〃That I doubt;〃 said I。
〃Do you doubt; sir; that Madoc discovered America?〃
〃Not in the least;〃 said I; 〃but I doubt very much that his tomb
was ever discovered with the inscription which you allude to upon
it。〃
〃But it was; sir; I do assure you; and the descendants of Madoc and
his people are still to be found in a part of America speaking the
pure iaith Cymraeg better Welsh than we of Wales do。〃
〃That I doubt〃 said I。 〃However; the idea is a pretty one;
therefore cherish it。 This is a beautiful country。〃
〃A very beautiful country; sir; there is none more beautiful in all
Wales。〃
〃What is the name of the river; which runs beneath the bridge?〃
〃The Ceiriog; sir。〃
〃The Ceiriog;〃 said I; 〃the Ceiriog!〃
〃Did you ever hear the name before; sir?〃
〃I have heard of the Eos Ceiriog;〃 said I; 〃the Nightingale of
Ceiriog。〃
〃That was Huw Morris; sir; he was called the Nightingale of
Ceiriog。〃
〃Did he live hereabout?〃
〃Oh no; sir; he lived far away up towards the head of the valley;
at a place called Pont y Meibion。〃
〃Are you acquainted with his works?〃 said I。
〃Oh yes; sir; at least with some of them。 I have read the Marwnad
on Barbara Middleton; and likewise the piece on Oliver and his men。
Ah; it is a funny piece that … he did not like Oliver nor his men。〃
〃Of what profession are you?〃 said I; 〃are you a schoolmaster or
apothecary?〃
〃Neither; sir; neither; I am merely a poor shoemaker。〃
〃You know a great deal for a shoemaker;〃 said I。
〃Ah; sir; there are many shoemakers in Wales who know much more
than I。〃
〃But not in England;〃 said I。 〃Well; farewell。〃
〃Farewell; sir。 When you have any boots to mend or shoes; sir … I
shall be happy to serve you。〃
〃I do not live in these parts;〃 said I。
〃No; sir; but you are coming to live here。〃
〃How do you know that?〃 said I。
〃I know it very well; sir; you left these parts very young; and
went far away … to the East Indies; sir; where you made a large
fortune in the medical line; sir; you are now coming back to your
own valley; where you will buy a property; and sett