〃What　may　it　be？〃　said　I。
  〃Carn…lleidyr；〃　he　replied：　　〃now；　sir；　do　you　know　the　meaning　of
  that　word？〃
  〃I　think　I　do；〃　said　I。
  〃What　may　it　be；　sir？〃
  〃First　let　me　hear　what　you　conceive　its　meaning　to　be；〃　said　I。
  〃Why；　sir；　I　should　say　that　Carn…lleidyr　is　an　out…and…out　thief　…
  one　worse　than　a　thief　of　the　common　sort。　　Now；　if　I　steal　a
  matrass　I　am　a　lleidyr；　that　is　a　thief　of　the　common　sort；　but　if
  I　carry　it　to　a　person；　and　he　buys　it；　knowing　it　to　be　stolen；　I
  conceive　he　is　a　far　worse　thief　than　I；　in　fact；　a　carn…lleidyr。〃
  〃The　word　is　a　double　word；〃　said　I；　〃compounded　of　carn　and
  lleidyr。　　The　original　meaning　of　carn　is　a　heap　of　stones；　and
  carn…lleidyr　means　properly　a　thief　without　house　or　home；　and　with
  no　place　on　which　to　rest　his　head；　save　the　carn　or　heap　of　stones
  on　the　bleak　top　of　the　mountain。　　For　a　long　time　the　word　was
  only　applied　to　a　thief　of　that　description；　who；　being　without
  house　and　home；　was　more　desperate　than　other　thieves；　and　as
  savage　and　brutish　as　the　wolves　and　foxes　with　whom　he
  occasionally　shared　his　pillow；　the　carn。　　In　course　of　time；
  however；　the　original　meaning　was　lost　or　disregarded；　and　the　term
  carn…lleidyr　was　applied　to　any　particularly　dishonest　person。　　At
  present　there　can　be　no　impropriety　in　calling　a　person　who
  receives　a　matrass；　knowing　it　to　be　stolen；　a　carn…lleidyr；　seeing
  that　he　is　worse　than　the　thief　who　stole　it；　or　in　calling　a
  knavish　attorney　a　carn…lleidyr；　seeing　that　he　does　far　more　harm
  than　a　common　pick…pocket；　or　in　calling　the　Pope　so；　seeing　that
  he　gets　huge　sums　of　money　out　of　people　by　pretending　to　be　able
  to　admit　their　souls　to　heaven；　or　to　hurl　them　to　the　other　place；
  knowing　all　the　time　that　he　has　no　such　power；　perhaps；　indeed；　at
  the　present　day　the　term　carn…lleidyr　is　more　applicable　to　the
  Pope　than　to　any　one　else；　for　he　is　certainly　the　arch　thief　of
  the　world。　　So　much　for　Carn…lleidyr。　　But　I　must　here　tell　you
  that　the　term　carn　may　be　applied　to　any　who　is　particularly　bad　or
  disagreeable　in　any　respect；　and　now　I　remember；　has　been　applied
  for　centuries　both　in　prose　and　poetry。　　One　Lewis　Glyn　Cothi；　a
  poet；　who　lived　more　than　three　hundred　years　ago；　uses　the　word
  carn　in　the　sense　of　arrant　or　exceedingly　bad；　for　in　his　abusive
  ode　to　the　town　of　Chester；　he　says　that　the　women　of　London　itself
  were　never　more　carn　strumpets　than　those　of　Chester；　by　which　he
  means　that　there　were　never　more　arrant　harlots　in　the　world　than
  those　of　the　cheese　capital。　　And　the　last　of　your　great　poets；
  Gronwy　Owen；　who　flourished　about　the　middle　of　the　last　century；
  complains　in　a　letter　to　a　friend；　whilst　living　in　a　village　of
  Lancashire；　that　he　was　amongst　Carn　Saeson。　　He　found　all　English
  disagreeable　enough；　but　those　of　Lancashire　particularly　so　…
  savage；　brutish　louts；　out…and…out　John　Bulls；　and　therefore　he
  called　them　Carn　Saeson。〃
  〃Thank　you；　sir；〃　said　my　companion；　〃I　now　thoroughly　understand
  the　meaning　of　carn。　　Whenever　I　go　to　Chester；　and　a　dressed…up
  madam　jostles　against　me；　I　shall　call　her　carn…butein。　　The　Pope
  of　Rome　I　shall　in　future　term　carn…lleidyr　y　byd；　or　the　arch
  thief　of　the　world。　　And　whenever　I　see　a　stupid；　brutal　Englishman
  swaggering　about　Llangollen；　and　looking　down　upon　us　poor　Welsh；　I
  shall　say　to　myself　Get　home；　you　carn　Sais！　　Well；　sir；　we　are　now
  near　Llangollen；　I　must　turn　to　the　left。　　You　go　straight　forward。
  I　never　had　such　an　agreeable　walk　in　my　life。　　May　I　ask　your
  name？〃
  I　told　him　my　name；　and　asked　him　for　his。
  〃Edward　Jones；〃　he　replied。
  CHAPTER　X
  The　Berwyn　…　Mountain　Cottage　…　The　Barber's　Pole。
  ON　the　following　morning　I　strolled　up　the　Berwyn　on　the　south…west
  of　the　town；　by　a　broad　winding　path；　which　was　at　first　very
  steep；　but　by　degrees　became　less　so。　　When　I　had　accomplished
  about　three　parts　of　the　ascent　I　came　to　a　place　where　the　road；
  or　path；　divided　into　two。　　I　took　the　one　to　the　left；　which
  seemingly　led　to　the　top　of　the　mountain；　and　presently　came　to　a
  cottage　from　which　a　dog　rushed　barking　towards　me；　an　old　woman；
  however；　coming　to　the　door　called　him　back。　　I　said　a　few　words　to
  her　in　Welsh；　whereupon　in　broken　English　she　asked　me　to　enter　the
  cottage　and　take　a　glass　of　milk。　　I　went　in　and　sat　down　on　a
  chair　which　a　sickly…looking　young　woman　handed　to　me。　　I　asked　her
  in　English　who　she　was；　but　she　made　no　answer；　whereupon　the　old
  woman　told　me　that　she　was　her　daughter　and　had　no　English。　　I　then
  asked　her　in　Welsh　what　was　the　matter　with　her；　she　replied　that
  she　had　the　cryd　or　ague。　　The　old　woman　now　brought　me　a　glass　of
  milk；　and　said　in　the　Welsh　language　that　she　hoped　I　should　like
  it。　　What　further　conversation　we　had　was　in　the　Cambrian　tongue。
  I　asked　the　name　of　the　dog；　who　was　now　fondling　upon　me；　and　was
  told　that　his　name　was　Pharaoh。　　I　inquired　if　they　had　any　books；
  and　was　shown　two；　one　a　common　Bible　printed　by　the　Bible　Society；
  and　the　other　a　volume　in　which　the　book　of　prayer　of　the　Church　of
  England　was　bound　up　with　the　Bible；　both　printed　at　Oxford；　about
  the　middle　of　the　last　century。　　I　found　that　both　mother　and
  daughter　were　Calvinistic…Methodists。　　After　a　little　further
  discourse　I　got　up　and　gave　the　old　woman　twopence　for　the　milk；
  she　accepted　it；　but　with　great　reluctance。　　I　inquired　whether　by
  following　the　road　I　could　get　to　the　Pen　y　bryn　or　the　top　of　the
  hill。　　They　shook　their　heads；　and　the　young　woman　said　that　I
  could　not；　as　the　road　presently　took　a　turn　and　went　down。　　I
  asked　her　how　I　could　get　to　the　top　of　the　hill。　　〃Which　part　of
  the　top？〃　said　she。　　〃I'r　goruchaf；〃　I　replied。　　〃That　must　be
  where　the　barber's　pole　stands；〃　said　she。　　〃Why　does　the　barber's
  pole　stand　there？〃　said　I。　　〃A　barber　was　hanged　there　a　long　time
  ago；〃　said　she；　〃and　the　pole　was　placed　to　show　the　spot。〃　　〃Why
  was　he　hanged？〃　said　I。　　〃For　murdering　his　wife；〃　said　she。　　I
  asked　her　some　questions　about　the　murder；　but　the　only　information
  she　could　give　me　was；　that　it　was　a　very　bad　murder　and　occurred　a
  long　time　ago。　　I　had　observed　the　pole　from　our　garden；　at
  Llangollen；　but　had　concluded　that　it　was　a　common　flagstaff。　　I
  inquired　the　way　to　it。　　It　was　not　visible　from　the　cottage；　but
  they　gave　me　directions　how　to　reach　it。　　I　bade　them　farewell；　and
  in　about　a　quarter　of　an　hour　reached　the　pole　on　the　top　of　the
  hill。　　I　imagined　that　I　should　have　a　glorious　view　of　the　vale　of
  Llangollen　from　the　spot　where　it　stood；　the　view；　however；　did　not
  answer　my　expectations。　　I　returned　to　Llangollen　by　nearly　the
  same　way　by　which　I　had　come。
  The　remainder　of　the　day　I　spent　entirely　with　my　family；　whom　at
  their　particular　request　I　took　in　the　evening　to　see　Plas　Newydd；
  once　the　villa　of　the　two　ladies　of　Llangollen。　　It　lies　on　the
  farther　side　of　the　bridge；　at　a　little　distance　from　the　back　part
  of　the　church。　　There　is　a　thoroughfare　through　the　grounds；　which
  are　not　extensive。　　Plas　Newydd　or　the　New　Place　is　a　small　gloomy
  mansion；　with　a　curious　dairy　on　the　right…hand　side；　as　you　go　up
  to　it；　and　a　remarkable　stone　pump。　　An　old　man　whom　we　met　in　the
  grounds；　and　with　whom　I　entered　into　conversation；　said　that　he
  remembered　the　building　of　the　house；　and　that　the　place　where　it
  now　stands　was　called　before　its　erection　Pen　y　maes；　or　the　head
  of　the　field。
  CHAPTER　XI
  Welsh　Farm…House　…　A　Poet's　Grandson　…　Hospitality　…　Mountain
  Village　…　Madoc　…　The　Native　Valley　…　Corpse　Candles　…　The　Midnight
  Call。
  MY　curiosity　having　been　rather　excited　with　respect　to　the　country
  beyond　the　Berwyn；　by　what　my　friend；　the　intelligent　flannel…
  worker；　had　told　me　about　it；　I　determined　to　go　and　see　it。
  Accordingly　on　Friday　morning　I　set　out。　　Having　passed　by　Pengwern
  Hall　I　turned　up　a　lane　in　the　direction　of　the　south；　with　a　brook
  on　the　right　running　amongst　hazels；　I　presently　arrived　at　a　small
  farm…house　standing　on　the　left　with　a　little　yard　before　it。
  Seeing　a　woman　at　the　door　I　asked　her　in　English　if　the　road　in
  which　I　was　would　take　me　across　the　mountain　…　she　said　it　would；
  and　forthwith　cried　to　a　man　working　in　a　field　who　left　his　work
  and　came　towards　us。　　〃That　is　my　husband；〃　said　she；　〃he　has　more
  English　than　I。〃
  The　man　came　up　and　addressed　me　in　very　good　English：　　he　had　a
  brisk；　intelligent　look；　and　was　about　sixty。　　I　repeated　the
  question；　which　I　had　put　to　his　wife；　and　he　also　said　that　by
  following　the　road　I　could　get　across　the　mountain。　　We　soon　got
  into　conversation。　　He　told　me　that　the　little　farm　in　which　he
  lived　belonged　to　the　person　who　had　bought　Pengwern　Hall。　　He　said
  that　he　was　a　good　kind　of　gentleman；　but　did　not　like　the　Welsh。
  I　asked　him；　if　the　gentleman　in　question　did　not　like　the　Welsh；
  why　he　came　to　live　among　them。　　He　smiled；　and　I　then　said　that　I
  liked　the　Welsh　very　much；　and　was　particularly　fond　of　their
  language。　　He　asked　me　whether　I　could　read　Welsh；　and　on　my