第 10 节
作者:随便看看      更新:2021-02-25 00:46      字数:9322
  repeat I do not think I saw it; and I am quite sure that I did not
  see it from the top of Dinas Bran on a subsequent ascent; on a day
  equally clear; when if I had seen the Wyddfa I must have recognised
  it; having been at its top。  As I stood gazing around; the children
  danced about upon the grass; and sang a song。  The song was
  English。  I descended the hill; they followed me to its foot; and
  then left me。  The children of the lower class of Llangollen are
  great pests to visitors。  The best way to get rid of them is to
  give them nothing:  I followed that plan; and was not long troubled
  with them。
  Arrived at the foot of the hill; I walked along the bank of the
  canal to the west。  Presently I came to a barge lying by the bank;
  the boatman was in it。  I entered into conversation with him。  He
  told me that the canal and its branches extended over a great part
  of England。  That the boats carried slates … that he had frequently
  gone as far as Paddington by the canal … that he was generally
  three weeks on the journey … that the boatmen and their families
  lived in the little cabins aft … that the boatmen were all Welsh …
  that they could read English; but little or no Welsh … that English
  was a much more easy language to read than Welsh … that they passed
  by many towns; among others Northampton; and that he liked no place
  so much as Llangollen。  I proceeded till I came to a place where
  some people were putting huge slates into a canal boat。  It was
  near a bridge which crossed the Dee; which was on the left。  I
  stopped and entered into conversation with one; who appeared to be
  the principal man。  He told me amongst other things that he was a
  blacksmith from the neighbourhood of Rhiwabon; and that the flags
  were intended for the flooring of his premises。  In the boat was an
  old bareheaded; bare…armed fellow; who presently joined in the
  conversation in very broken English。  He told me that his name was
  Joseph Hughes; and that he was a real Welshman and was proud of
  being so; he expressed a great dislike for the English; who he said
  were in the habit of making fun of him and ridiculing his language;
  he said that all the fools that he had known were Englishmen。  I
  told him that all Englishmen were not fools; 〃but the greater part
  are;〃 said he。  〃Look how they work;〃 said I。  〃Yes;〃 said he;
  〃some of them are good at breaking stones for the road; but not
  more than one in a hundred。〃  〃There seems to be something of the
  old Celtic hatred to the Saxon in this old fellow;〃 said I to
  myself; as I walked away。
  I proceeded till I came to the head of the canal; where the
  navigation first commences。  It is close to a weir over which the
  Dee falls。  Here there is a little floodgate; through which water
  rushes from an oblong pond or reservoir; fed by water from a corner
  of the upper part of the weir。  On the left; or south…west side; is
  a mound of earth fenced with stones which is the commencement of
  the bank of the canal。  The pond or reservoir above the floodgate
  is separated from the weir by a stone wall on the left; or south…
  west side。  This pond has two floodgates; the one already
  mentioned; which opens into the canal; and another; on the other
  side of the stone mound; opening to the lower part of the weir。
  Whenever; as a man told me who was standing near; it is necessary
  to lay the bed of the canal dry; in the immediate neighbourhood for
  the purpose of making repairs; the floodgate to the canal is
  closed; and the one to the lower part of the weir is opened; and
  then the water from the pond flows into the Dee; whilst a sluice;
  near the first lock; lets out the water of the canal into the
  river。  The head of the canal is situated in a very beautiful spot。
  To the left or south is a lofty hill covered with wood。  To the
  right is a beautiful slope or lawn on the top of which is a pretty
  villa; to which you can get by a little wooden bridge over the
  floodgate of the canal; and indeed forming part of it。  Few things
  are so beautiful in their origin as this canal; which; be it known;
  with its locks and its aqueducts; the grandest of which last is the
  stupendous erection near Stockport; which by…the…bye filled my mind
  when a boy with wonder; constitutes the grand work of England; and
  yields to nothing in the world of the kind; with the exception of
  the great canal of China。
  Retracing my steps some way I got upon the river's bank and then
  again proceeded in the direction of the west。  I soon came to a
  cottage nearly opposite a bridge; which led over the river; not the
  bridge which I have already mentioned; but one much smaller; and
  considerably higher up the valley。  The cottage had several dusky
  outbuildings attached to it; and a paling before it。  Leaning over
  the paling in his shirt…sleeves was a dark…faced; short; thickset
  man; who saluted me in English。  I returned his salutation;
  stopped; and was soon in conversation with him。  I praised the
  beauty of the river and its banks:  he said that both were
  beautiful and delightful in summer; but not at all in winter; for
  then the trees and bushes on the banks were stripped of their
  leaves; and the river was a frightful torrent。  He asked me if I
  had been to see the place called the Robber's Leap; as strangers
  generally went to see it。  I inquired where it was。
  〃Yonder;〃 said he; pointing to some distance down the river。
  〃Why is it called the Robber's Leap?〃 said I。
  〃It is called the Robber's Leap; or Llam y Lleidyr;〃 said he;
  〃because a thief pursued by justice once leaped across the river
  there and escaped。  It was an awful leap; and he well deserved to
  escape after taking it。〃  I told him that I should go and look at
  it on some future opportunity; and then asked if there were many
  fish in the river。  He said there were plenty of salmon and trout;
  and that owing to the river being tolerably high; a good many had
  been caught during the last few days。  I asked him who enjoyed the
  right of fishing in the river。  He said that in these parts the
  fishing belonged to two or three proprietors; who either preserved
  the fishing for themselves; as they best could by means of keepers;
  or let it out to other people; and that many individuals came not
  only from England; but from France and Germany and even Russia for
  the purpose of fishing; and that the keepers of the proprietors
  from whom they purchased permission to fish; went with them; to
  show them the best places; and to teach them how to fish。  He added
  that there was a report that the river would shortly be rhydd or
  free and open to any one。  I said that it would be a bad thing to
  fling the river open; as in that event the fish would be killed at
  all times and seasons; and eventually all destroyed。  He replied
  that he questioned whether more fish would be taken then than now;
  and that I must not imagine that the fish were much protected by
  what was called preserving; that the people to whom the lands in
  the neighbourhood belonged; and those who paid for fishing did not
  catch a hundredth part of the fish which were caught in the river:
  that the proprietors went with their keepers; and perhaps caught
  two or three stone of fish; or that strangers went with the
  keepers; whom they paid for teaching them how to fish; and perhaps
  caught half…a…dozen fish; and that shortly after the keepers would
  return and catch on their own account sixty stone of fish from the
  very spot where the proprietors or strangers had great difficulty
  in catching two or three stone or the half…dozen fish; or the
  poachers would go and catch a yet greater quantity。  He added that
  gentry did not understand how to catch fish; and that to attempt to
  preserve was nonsense。  I told him that if the river was flung open
  everybody would fish; he said that I was much mistaken; that
  hundreds who were now poachers; would then keep at home; mind their
  proper trades; and never use line or spear; that folks always
  longed to do what they were forbidden; and that Shimei would never
  have crossed the brook provided he had not been told he should be
  hanged if he did。  That he himself had permission to fish in the
  river whenever he pleased; but never availed himself of it; though
  in his young time; when he had no leave; he had been an arrant
  poacher。
  The manners and way of speaking of this old personage put me very
  much in mind of those of Morgan; described by Smollett in his
  immortal novel of 〃Roderick Random。〃  I had more discourse with
  him:  I asked him in what line of business he was; he told me that
  he sold coals。  From his complexion; and the hue of his shirt; I
  had already concluded that he was in some grimy trade。  I then
  inquired of what religion he was; and received for answer that he
  was a Baptist。  I thought that both himself and part of his apparel
  would look all the better for a good immersion。  We talked of the
  war then raging … he said it was between the false prophet and the
  Dragon。  I asked him who the Dragon was … he said the Turk。  I told
  him that the Pope was far worse than either the Turk or the
  Russian; that his relig