第 8 节
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Wales。〃 I repeated the question in Welsh。
〃Cefn Bach;〃 she replied … which signifies the little ridge。
〃Diolch iti;〃 I replied; and proceeded on my way。
I was now in a wild valley … enormous hills were on my right。 The
road was good; and above it; in the side of a steep bank; was a
causeway intended for foot passengers。 It was overhung with hazel
bushes。 I walked along it to its termination which was at
Llangollen。 I found my wife and daughter at the principal inn。
They had already taken a house。 We dined together at the inn;
during the dinner we had music; for a Welsh harper stationed in the
passage played upon his instrument 〃Codiad yr ehedydd。〃 〃Of a
surety;〃 said I; 〃I am in Wales!〃
CHAPTER VI
Llangollen … Wyn Ab Nudd … The Dee … Dinas Bran。
THE northern side of the vale of Llangollen is formed by certain
enormous rocks called the Eglwysig rocks; which extend from east to
west; a distance of about two miles。 The southern side is formed
by the Berwyn hills。 The valley is intersected by the River Dee;
the origin of which is a deep lake near Bala; about twenty miles to
the west。 Between the Dee and the Eglwysig rises a lofty hill; on
the top of which are the ruins of Dinas Bran; which bear no slight
resemblance to a crown。 The upper part of the hill is bare with
the exception of what is covered by the ruins; on the lower part
there are inclosures and trees; with; here and there; a grove or
farm…house。 On the other side of the valley; to the east of
Llangollen; is a hill called Pen y Coed; beautifully covered with
trees of various kinds; it stands between the river and the Berwyn;
even as the hill of Dinas Bran stands between the river and the
Eglwysig rocks … it does not; however; confront Dinas Bran; which
stands more to the west。
Llangollen is a small town or large village of white houses with
slate roofs; it contains about two thousand inhabitants; and is
situated principally on the southern side of the Dee。 At its
western end it has an ancient bridge and a modest unpretending
church nearly in its centre; in the chancel of which rest the
mortal remains of an old bard called Gryffydd Hiraethog。 From some
of the houses on the southern side there is a noble view … Dinas
Bran and its mighty hill forming the principal objects。 The view
from the northern part of the town; which is indeed little more
than a suburb; is not quite so grand; but is nevertheless highly
interesting。 The eastern entrance of the vale of Llangollen is
much wider than the western; which is overhung by bulky hills。
There are many pleasant villas on both sides of the river; some of
which stand a considerable way up the hill; of the villas the most
noted is Plas Newydd at the foot of the Berwyn; built by two Irish
ladies of high rank; who resided in it for nearly half a century;
and were celebrated throughout Europe by the name of the Ladies of
Llangollen。
The view of the hill of Dinas Bran; from the southern side of
Llangollen; would be much more complete were it not for a bulky
excrescence; towards its base; which prevents the gazer from
obtaining a complete view。 The name of Llangollen signifies the
church of Collen; and the vale and village take their name from the
church; which was originally dedicated to Saint Collen; though
some; especially the neighbouring peasantry; suppose that
Llangollen is a compound of Llan; a church; and Collen; a hazel…
wood; and that the church was called the church of the hazel…wood
from the number of hazels in the neighbourhood。 Collen; according
to a legendary life; which exists of him in Welsh; was a Briton by
birth; and of illustrious ancestry。 He served for some time abroad
as a soldier against Julian the Apostate; and slew a Pagan champion
who challenged the best man amongst the Christians。 Returning to
his own country he devoted himself to religion; and became Abbot of
Glastonbury; but subsequently retired to a cave on the side of a
mountain; where he lived a life of great austerity。 Once as he was
lying in his cell he heard two men out abroad discoursing about Wyn
Ab Nudd; and saying that he was king of the Tylwyth or Teg Fairies;
and lord of Unknown; whereupon Collen thrusting his head out of his
cave told them to hold their tongues; for that Wyn Ab Nudd and his
host were merely devils。 At dead of night he heard a knocking at
the door; and on his asking who was there; a voice said: 〃I am a
messenger from Wyn Ab Nudd; king of Unknown; and I am come to
summon thee to appear before my master to…morrow; at mid…day; on
the top of the hill。〃
Collen did not go … the next night there was the same knocking and
the same message。 Still Collen did not go。 The third night the
messenger came again and repeated his summons; adding that if he
did not go it would be the worse for him。 The next day Collen made
some holy water; put it into a pitcher and repaired to the top of
the hill; where he saw a wonderfully fine castle; attendants in
magnificent liveries; youths and damsels dancing with nimble feet;
and a man of honourable presence before the gate; who told him that
the king was expecting him to dinner。 Collen followed the man into
the castle; and beheld the king on a throne of gold; and a table
magnificently spread before him。 The king welcomed Collen; and
begged him to taste of the dainties on the table; adding that he
hoped that in future he would reside with him。 〃I will not eat of
the leaves of the forest;〃 said Collen。
〃Did you ever see men better dressed?〃 said the king; 〃than my
attendants here in red and blue?〃
〃Their dress is good enough;〃 said Collen; 〃considering what kind
of dress it is。〃
〃What kind of dress is it?〃 said the king。
Collen replied: 〃The red on the one side denotes burning; and the
blue on the other side denotes freezing。〃 Then drawing forth his
sprinkler; he flung the holy water in the faces of the king and his
people; whereupon the whole vision disappeared; so that there was
neither castle nor attendants; nor youth nor damsel; nor musician
with his music; nor banquet; nor anything to be seen save the green
bushes。
The valley of the Dee; of which the Llangollen district forms part;
is called in the British tongue Glyndyfrdwy … that is; the valley
of the Dwy or Dee。 The celebrated Welsh chieftain; generally known
as Owen Glendower; was surnamed after this valley; the whole of
which belonged to him; and in which he had two or three places of
strength; though his general abode was a castle in Sycharth; a
valley to the south…east of the Berwyn; and distant about twelve
miles from Llangollen。
Connected with the Dee there is a wonderful Druidical legend to the
following effect。 The Dee springs from two fountains; high up in
Merionethshire; called Dwy Fawr and Dwy Fach; or the great and
little Dwy; whose waters pass through those of the lake of Bala
without mingling with them; and come out at its northern extremity。
These fountains had their names from two individuals; Dwy Fawr and
Dwy Fach; who escaped from the Deluge; when all the rest of the
human race were drowned; and the passing of the waters of the two
fountains through the lake; without being confounded with its
flood; is emblematic of the salvation of the two individuals from
the Deluge; of which the lake is a type。
Dinas Bran; which crowns the top of the mighty hill on the northern
side of the valley; is a ruined stronghold of unknown antiquity。
The name is generally supposed to signify Crow Castle; bran being
the British word for crow; and flocks of crows being frequently
seen hovering over it。 It may; however; mean the castle of Bran or
Brennus; or the castle above the Bran; a brook which flows at its
foot。
Dinas Bran was a place quite impregnable in the old time; and
served as a retreat to Gruffydd; son of Madawg from the rage of his
countrymen; who were incensed against him because; having married
Emma; the daughter of James Lord Audley; he had; at the instigation
of his wife and father…in…law; sided with Edward the First against
his own native sovereign。 But though it could shield him from his
foes; it could not preserve him from remorse and the stings of
conscience; of which he speedily died。
At present the place consists only of a few ruined walls; and
probably consisted of little more two or three hundred years ago:
Roger Cyffyn a Welsh bard; who flourished at the beginning of the
seventeenth century; wrote an englyn upon it; of which the
following is a translation:…
〃Gone; gone are thy gates; Dinas Bran on the height!
Thy warders are blood…crows and ravens; I trow;
Now no one will wend from the field of the fight
To the fortress on high; save the raven and crow。〃
CHAPTER VII
Poor Black Cat … Dissenters … Persecution … What Impudence!
THE house or cottage; for it was called a cottage though it
consisted of two stories; in which my wife had procured lodgings
for us; was situated in the Northern suburb。 Its front was towards
a large perllan or orchard; which sloped down gently to the ba