第 1 节
作者:随便看看      更新:2021-02-25 00:46      字数:9322
  Wild Wales
  by George Borrow
  Its People; Language and Scenery
  INTRODUCTORY
  WALES is a country interesting in many respects; and deserving of
  more attention than it has hitherto met with。  Though not very
  extensive; it is one of the most picturesque countries in the
  world; a country in which Nature displays herself in her wildest;
  boldest; and occasionally loveliest forms。  The inhabitants; who
  speak an ancient and peculiar language; do not call this region
  Wales; nor themselves Welsh。  They call themselves Cymry or Cumry;
  and their country Cymru; or the land of the Cumry。  Wales or
  Wallia; however; is the true; proper; and without doubt original
  name; as it relates not to any particular race; which at present
  inhabits it; or may have sojourned in it at any long bygone period;
  but to the country itself。  Wales signifies a land of mountains; of
  vales; of dingles; chasms; and springs。  It is connected with the
  Cumbric bal; a protuberance; a springing forth; with the Celtic
  beul or beal; a mouth; with the old English welle; a fountain; with
  the original name of Italy; still called by the Germans Welschland;
  with Balkan and Vulcan; both of which signify a casting out; an
  eruption; with Welint or Wayland; the name of the Anglo…Saxon god
  of the forge; with the Chaldee val; a forest; and the German wald;
  with the English bluff; and the Sanscrit palava … startling
  assertions; no doubt; at least to some; which are; however; quite
  true; and which at some future time will be universally
  acknowledged so to be。
  But it is not for its scenery alone that Wales is deserving of
  being visited; scenery soon palls unless it is associated with
  remarkable events; and the names of remarkable men。  Perhaps there
  is no country in the whole world which has been the scene of events
  more stirring and remarkable than those recorded in the history of
  Wales。  What other country has been the scene of a struggle so
  deadly; so embittered; and protracted as that between the Cumro and
  the Saxon? … A struggle which did not terminate at Caernarvon; when
  Edward Longshanks foisted his young son upon the Welsh chieftains
  as Prince of Wales; but was kept up till the battle of Bosworth
  Field; when a prince of Cumric blood won the crown of fair Britain;
  verifying the olden word which had cheered the hearts of the
  Ancient Britons for at least a thousand years; even in times of the
  darkest distress and gloom:…
  〃But after long pain
  Repose we shall obtain;
  When sway barbaric has purg'd us clean;
  And Britons shall regain
  Their crown and their domain;
  And the foreign oppressor be no more seen。〃
  Of remarkable men Wales has assuredly produced its full share。
  First; to speak of men of action:… there was Madoc; the son of
  Owain Gwynedd; who discovered America; centuries before Columbus
  was born; then there was 〃the irregular and wild Glendower;〃 who
  turned rebel at the age of sixty; was crowned King of Wales at
  Machynlleth; and for fourteen years contrived to hold his own
  against the whole power of England; then there was Ryce Ap Thomas;
  the best soldier of his time; whose hands placed the British crown
  on the brow of Henry the Seventh; and whom bluff Henry the Eighth
  delighted to call Father Preece; then there was … who? … why Harry
  Morgan; who led those tremendous fellows the Buccaneers across the
  Isthmus of Darien to the sack and burning of Panama。
  What; a buccaneer in the list?  Ay! and why not?  Morgan was a
  scourge; it is true; but he was a scourge of God on the cruel
  Spaniards of the New World; the merciless task…masters and butchers
  of the Indian race:  on which account God favoured and prospered
  him; permitting him to attain the noble age of ninety; and to die
  peacefully and tranquilly at Jamaica; whilst smoking his pipe in
  his shady arbour; with his smiling plantation of sugar…canes full
  in view。  How unlike the fate of Harry Morgan to that of Lolonois;
  a being as daring and enterprising as the Welshman; but a monster
  without ruth or discrimination; terrible to friend and foe; who
  perished by the hands; not of the Spaniards; but of the Indians;
  who tore him limb from limb; burning his members; yet quivering; in
  the fire … which very Indians Morgan contrived to make his own firm
  friends; and whose difficult language he spoke with the same
  facility as English; Spanish; and his own South Welsh。
  For men of genius Wales during a long period was particularly
  celebrated。 … Who has not heard of the Welsh Bards? though it is
  true that; beyond the borders of Wales; only a very few are
  acquainted with their songs; owing to the language; by no means an
  easy one; in which they were composed。  Honour to them all!
  everlasting glory to the three greatest … Taliesin; Ab Gwilym and
  Gronwy Owen:  the first a professed Christian; but in reality a
  Druid; whose poems fling great light on the doctrines of the
  primitive priesthood of Europe; which correspond remarkably with
  the philosophy of the Hindus; before the time of Brahma:  the
  second the grand poet of Nature; the contemporary of Chaucer; but
  worth half a dozen of the accomplished word…master; the ingenious
  versifier of Norman and Italian tales:  the third a learned and
  irreproachable minister of the Church of England; and one of the
  greatest poets of the last century; who after several narrow
  escapes from starvation both in England and Wales; died master of a
  paltry school at New Brunswick; in North America; sometime about
  the year 1780。
  But Wales has something besides its wonderful scenery; its eventful
  history; and its illustrious men of yore to interest the visitor。
  Wales has a population; and a remarkable one。  There are countries;
  besides Wales; abounding with noble scenery; rich in eventful
  histories; and which are not sparingly dotted with the birthplaces
  of heroes and poets; in which at the present day there is either no
  population at all; or one of a character which is anything but
  attractive。  Of a country in the first predicament; the Scottish
  Highlands afford an example:  What a country is that Highland
  region!  What scenery! and what associations!  If Wales has its
  Snowdon and Cader Idris; the Highlands have their Hill of the Water
  Dogs; and that of the Swarthy Swine:  If Wales has a history; so
  have the Highlands … not indeed so remarkable as that of Wales; but
  eventful enough:  If Wales has had its heroes; its Glendower and
  Father Pryce; the Highlands have had their Evan Cameron and Ranald
  of Moydart; If Wales has had its romantic characters; its Griffith
  Ap Nicholas and Harry Morgan; the Highlands have had Rob Roy and
  that strange fellow Donald Macleod; the man of the broadsword; the
  leader of the Freacadan Dhu; who at Fontenoy caused; the Lord only
  knows; how many Frenchmen's heads to fly off their shoulders; who
  lived to the age of one hundred and seven; and at seventy…one
  performed gallant service on the Heights of Abraham:  wrapped in
  whose plaid the dying Wolfe was carried from the hill of victory。 …
  If Wales has been a land of song; have not the Highlands also? … If
  Wales can boast of Ab Gwilym and Gronwy; the Highlands can boast of
  Ossian and MacIntyre。  In many respects the two regions are equals
  or nearly so; … In one respect; however; a matter of the present
  day; and a very important matter too; they are anything but equals:
  Wales has a population … but where is that of the Highlands? …
  Plenty of noble scene; Plenty of delightful associations;
  historical; poetical; and romantic … but; but; where is the
  population?
  The population of Wales has not departed across the Atlantic; like
  that of the Highlands; it remains at home; and a remarkable
  population it is … very different from the present inhabitants of
  several beautiful lands of olden fame; who have strangely
  degenerated from their forefathers。  Wales has not only a
  population; but a highly interesting one … hardy and frugal; yet
  kind and hospitable … a bit crazed; it is true; on the subject of
  religion; but still retaining plenty of old Celtic peculiarities;
  and still speaking Diolch i Duw! … the language of Glendower and
  the Bards。
  The present is a book about Wales and Welsh matters。  He who does
  me the honour of perusing it will be conducted to many a spot not
  only remarkable for picturesqueness; but for having been the scene
  of some extraordinary event; or the birth…place or residence of a
  hero or a man of genius; he will likewise be not unfrequently
  introduced to the genuine Welsh; and made acquainted with what they
  have to say about Cumro and Saxon; buying and selling; fattening
  hogs and poultry; Methodism and baptism; and the poor; persecuted
  Church of England。
  An account of the language of Wales will be found in the last
  chapter。  It has many features and words in common with the
  Sanscrit; and many which seem peculiar to itself; or rather to the
  family of languages; generally called the Celtic; to which it
  belongs。  Though not an original tongue; for indeed no original
  tongue; or anything approximating to one; at present exists; it is
  ce