being　made　of　coarse　white　sugar。　　Its　excessive　cleanness　and　whiteness
  are　a　trouble　in　one　way：　the　sun　is　reflected　into　your　eyes　with　such
  energy　as　you　walk　along　that　you　want　to　sneeze　all　the　time。　　Old
  Captain　Tom　Bowling　found　another　difficulty。　　He　joined　us　in　our　walk；
  but　kept　wandering　unrestfully　to　the　roadside。　　Finally　he　explained。
  Said　he；　〃Well；　I　chew；　you　know；　and　the　road's　so　plagued　clean。〃
  We　walked　several　miles　that　afternoon　in　the　bewildering　glare　of　the
  sun；　the　white　roads；　and　the　white　buildings。　　Our　eyes　got　to　paining
  us　a　good　deal。　　By　and　by　a　soothing；　blessed　twilight　spread　its　cool
  balm　around。　　We　looked　up　in　pleased　surprise　and　saw　that　it　proceeded
  from　an　intensely　black　negro　who　was　going　by。　　We　answered　his　military
  salute　in　the　grateful　gloom　of　his　near　presence；　and　then　passed　on
  into　the　pitiless　white　glare　again。
  The　colored　women　whom　we　met　usually　bowed　and　spoke；　so　did　the
  children。　　The　colored　men　commonly　gave　the　military　salute。　　They
  borrow　this　fashion　from　the　soldiers；　no　doubt；　England　has　kept　a
  garrison　here　for　generations。　　The　younger　men's　custom　of　carrying
  small　canes　is　also　borrowed　from　the　soldiers；　I　suppose；　who　always
  carry　a　cane；　in　Bermuda　as　everywhere　else　in　Britain's　broad　dominions。
  The　country　roads　curve　and　wind　hither　and　thither　in　the　delightfulest
  way；　unfolding　pretty　surprises　at　every　turn：　billowy　masses　of　oleander
  that　seem　to　float　out　from　behind　distant　projections　like；　the　pink
  cloud…banks　of　sunset；　sudden　plunges　among　cottages　and　gardens；　life
  and　activity；　followed　by　as　sudden　plunges　into　the　somber　twilight　and
  stillness　of　the　woods；　flitting　visions　of　white　fortresses　and　beacon
  towers　pictured　against　the　sky　on　remote　hilltops；　glimpses　of　shining
  green　sea　caught　for　a　moment　through　opening　headlands；　then　lost　again；
  more　woods　and　solitude；　and　by　and　by　another　turn　lays　bare；　without
  warning；　the　full　sweep　of　the　inland　ocean；　enriched　with　its　bars　of
  soft　color　and　graced　with　its　wandering　sails。
  Take　any　road　you　please；　you　may　depend　upon　it　you　will　not　stay　in　it
  half　a　mile。　Your　road　is　everything　that　a　road　ought　to　be：　it　is
  bordered　with　trees；　and　with　strange　plants　and　flowers；　it　is　shady　and
  pleasant；　or　sunny　and　still　pleasant；　it　carries　you　by　the　prettiest
  and　peacefulest　and　most　homelike　of　homes；　and　through　stretches　of
  forest　that　lie　in　a　deep　hush　sometimes；　and　sometimes　are　alive　with
  the　music　of　birds；　it　curves　always；　which　is　a　continual　promise；
  whereas　straight　roads　reveal　everything　at　a　glance　and　kill　interest。
  Your　road　is　all　this；　and　yet　you　will　not　stay　in　it　half　a　mile；　for
  the　reason　that　little　seductive；　mysterious　roads　are　always　branching
  out　from　it　on　either　hand；　and　as　these　curve　sharply　also　and　hide　what
  is　beyond；　you　cannot　resist　the　temptation　to　desert　your　own　chosen
  road　and　explore　them。　　You　are　usually　paid　for　your　trouble；
  consequently；　your　walk　inland　always　turns　out　to　be　one　of　the　most
  crooked；　involved；　purposeless；　and　interesting　experiences　a　body　can
  imagine。　There　is　enough　of　variety。　　Sometimes　you　are　in　the　level
  open；　with　marshes　thick　grown　with　flag…lances　that　are　ten　feet　high　on
  the　one　hand；　and　potato　and　onion　orchards　on　the　other；　next；　you　are
  on　a　hilltop；　with　the　ocean　and　the　islands　spread　around　you；　presently
  the　road　winds　through　a　deep　cut；　shut　in　by　perpendicular　walls　thirty
  or　forty　feet　high；　marked　with　the　oddest　and　abruptest　stratum　lines；
  suggestive　of　sudden　and　eccentric　old　upheavals；　and　garnished　with　here
  and　there　a　clinging　adventurous　flower；　and　here　and　there　a　dangling
  vine；　and　by　and　by　your　way　is　along　the　sea　edge；　and　you　may　look　down
  a　fathom　or　two　through　the　transparent　water　and　watch　the　diamond…like
  flash　and　play　of　the　light　upon　the　rocks　and　sands　on　the　bottom　until
  you　are　tired　of　itif　you　are　so　constituted　as　to　be　able　to　get　tired
  of　it。
  You　may　march　the　country　roads　in　maiden　meditation；　fancy　free；　by
  field　and　farm；　for　no　dog　will　plunge　out　at　you　from　unsuspected　gate；
  with　breath…taking　surprise　of　ferocious　bark；　notwithstanding　it　is　a
  Christian　land　and　a　civilized。　　We　saw　upward　of　a　million　cats　in
  Bermuda；　but　the　people　are　very　abstemious　in　the　matter　of　dogs。　　Two
  or　three　nights　we　prowled　the　country　far　and　wide；　and　never　once　were
  accosted　by　a　dog。　　It　is　a　great　privilege　to　visit　such　a　land。　　The
  cats　were　no　offense　when　properly　distributed；　but　when　piled　they
  obstructed　travel。
  As　we　entered　the　edge　of　the　town　that　Sunday　afternoon；　we　stopped　at　a
  cottage　to　get　a　drink　of　water。　　The　proprietor；　a　middle…aged　man　with
  a　good　face；　asked　us　to　sit　down　and　rest。　　His　dame　brought　chairs；　and
  we　grouped　ourselves　in　the　shade　of　the　trees　by　the　door。　　Mr。　Smith
  that　was　not　his　name；　but　it　will　answerquestioned　us　about　ourselves
  and　our　country；　and　we　answered　him　truthfully；　as　a　general　thing；　and
  questioned　him　in　return。　　It　was　all　very　simple　and　pleasant　and
  sociable。　　Rural；　too；　for　there　was　a　pig　and　a　small　donkey　and　a　hen
  anchored　out；　close　at　hand；　by　cords　to　their　legs；　on　a　spot　that
  purported　to　be　grassy。　　Presently；　a　woman　passed　along；　and　although
  she　coldly　said　nothing　she　changed　the　drift　of　our　talk。　　Said　Smith：
  〃She　didn't　look　this　way；　you　noticed？　　Well；　she　is　our　next　neighbor
  on　one　side；　and　there's　another　family　that's　our　next　neighbors　on　the
  other　side；　but　there's　a　general　coolness　all　around　now；　and　we　don't
  speak。　　Yet　these　three　families；　one　generation　and　another；　have　lived
  here　side　by　side　and　been　as　friendly　as　weavers　for　a　hundred　and　fifty
  years；　till　about　a　year　ago。〃
  〃Why；　what　calamity　could　have　been　powerful　enough　to　break　up　so　old　a
  friendship？〃
  〃Well；　it　was　too　bad；　but　it　couldn't　be　helped。　　It　happened　like　this：
  About　a　year　or　more　ago；　the　rats　got　to　pestering　my　place　a　good　deal；
  and　I　set　up　a　steel　trap　in　my　back　yard。　　Both　of　these　neighbors　run
  considerable　to　cats；　and　so　I　warned　them　about　the　trap；　because　their
  cats　were　pretty　sociable　around　here　nights；　and　they　might　get　into
  trouble　without　my　intending　it。　　Well；　they　shut　up　their　cats　for　a
  while；　but　you　know　how　it　is　with　people；　they　got　careless；　and　sure
  enough　one　night　the　trap　took　Mrs。　　Jones's　principal　tomcat　into　camp
  and　finished　him　up。　　In　the　morning　Mrs。　Jones　comes　here　with　the
  corpse　in　her　arms；　and　cries　and　takes　on　the　same　as　if　it　was　a　child。
  It　was　a　cat　by　the　name　of　YelvertonHector　G。　Yelvertona　troublesome
  old　rip；　with　no　more　principle　than　an　Injun；　though　you　couldn't　make
  her　believe　it。　　I　said　all　a　man　could　to　comfort　her；　but　no；　nothing
  would　do　but　I　must　pay　for　him。　　Finally；　I　said　I　warn't　investing　in
  cats　now　as　much　as　I　was；　and　with　that　she　walked　off　in　a　huff；
  carrying　the　remains　with　her。　　That　closed　our　intercourse　with　the
  Joneses。　　Mrs。　Jones　joined　another　church　and　took　her　tribe　with　her。
  She　said　she　would　not　hold　fellowship　with　assassins。　　Well；　by　and　by
  comes　Mrs。　Brown's　turnshe　that　went　by　here　a　minute　ago。　　She　had　a
  disgraceful　old　yellow　cat　that　she　thought　as　much　of　as　if　he　was
  twins；　and　one　night　he　tried　that　trap　on　his　neck；　and　it　fitted　him
  so；　and　was　so　sort　of　satisfactory；　that　he　laid　down　and　curled　up　and
  stayed　with　it。　　Such　was　the　end　of　Sir　John　Baldwin。〃
  〃Was　that　the　name　of　the　cat？〃
  〃The　same。　　There's　cats　around　here　with　names　that　would　surprise　you。
  〃Maria〃　（to　his　wife）；　〃what　was　that　cat's　name　that　eat　a　keg　of
  ratsbane　by　mistake　over　at　Hooper's；　and　started　home　and　got　struck　by
  lightning　and　took　the　blind　staggers　and　fell　in　the　well　and　was　'most
  drowned。　　before　they　could　fish　him　out？〃
  〃That　was　that　colored　Deacon　Jackson's　cat。　　I　only　remember　the　last
  end　of　its　name；　which　was　Hold…The…Fort…For…I…Am…Coming　Jackson。〃
  〃Sho！　that　ain't　the　one。　　That's　the　one　that　eat　up　an　entire　box　of
  Seidlitz　powders；　and　then　hadn't　any　more　judgment　than　to　go　and　take　a
  drink。　　He　was　considered　to　be　a　great　loss；　but　I　never　could　see　it。
  Well；　no　matter　about　the　names。　　Mrs。　Brown　wanted　to　be　reasonable；　but
  Mrs。　Jones　wouldn't　let　her。　　She　put　her　up　to　going　to　law　for　damages。
  So　to　law　she　went；　and　had　the　face　to　claim　seven　shillings　and
  sixpence。　　It　made　a　great　stir。　　All　the　neighbors　went　to　court。
  Everybody　took　sides。　　It　got　hotter　and　hotter；　and　broke　up　all　the
  friendships　for　three　hundred　yards　around　friendships　that　had　lasted
  for　generations　and　generations。
  〃Well；　I　proved　by　eleven　witnesses　that　the　cat　was　of　a　low　character
  and　very　ornery；　and　warn't　worth　a　canceled　postage…stamp；　anyway；
  taking　the　average　of　cats　here；　but　I　lost　the　case。　　What　could　I
  expect？　　The　system　is　all　wrong　here；　and　is　bound　to　make　revolution
  and　bloodshed　some　day。　　You　see；　they　give　the　magistrate　a　poor　little
  starvation　salary；　and　then　turn　him　loose　on　the　public　to　gouge　for
  fees　and　costs　to　live　on。　　What　is　the　natural　result？　　Why；　he　never
  loo