第 1 节
作者:片片      更新:2021-02-21 15:57      字数:9321
  Inhabitants of the Alhambra。
  I HAVE often observed that the more proudly a mansion has been
  tenanted in the day of its prosperity; the humbler are its inhabitants
  in the day of its decline; and that the palace of a king commonly ends
  in being the nestling…place of the beggar。
  The Alhambra is in a rapid state of similar transition。 Whenever a
  tower falls to decay; it is seized upon by some tatterdemalion family;
  who become joint…tenants; with the bats and owls; of its gilded halls;
  and hang their rags; those standards of poverty; out of its windows
  and loopholes。
  I have amused myself with remarking some of the motley characters
  that have thus usurped the ancient abode of royalty; and who seem as
  if placed here to give a farcical termination to the drama of human
  pride。 One of these even bears the mockery of a regal title。 It is a
  little old woman named Maria Antonia Sabonea; but who goes by the
  appellation of la Reyna Coquina; or the Cockle…queen。 She is small
  enough to be a fairy; and a fairy she may be for aught I can find out;
  for no one seems to know her origin。 Her habitation is in a kind of
  closet under the outer staircase of the palace; and she sits in the
  cool stone corridor; plying her needle and singing from morning till
  night; with a ready joke for every one that passes; for though one
  of the poorest; she is one of the merriest little women breathing。 Her
  great merit is a gift for story…telling; having; I verily believe;
  as many stories at her command; as the inexhaustible Scheherezade of
  the thousand and one nights。 Some of these I have heard her relate
  in the evening tertulias of Dame Antonia; at which she is occasionally
  a humble attendant。
  That there must be some fairy gift about this mysterious little
  old woman; would appear from her extraordinary luck; since;
  notwithstanding her being very little; very ugly; and very poor; she
  has had; according to her own account; five husbands and a half;
  reckoning as a half one a young dragoon; who died during courtship。
  A rival personage to this little fairy queen is a portly old fellow
  with a bottle…nose; who goes about in a rusty garb with a cocked hat
  of oil…skin and a red cockade。 He is one of the legitimate sons of the
  Alhambra; and has lived here all his life; filling various offices;
  such as deputy alguazil; sexton of the parochial church; and marker of
  a fives…court established at the foot of one of the towers。 He is as
  poor as a rat; but as proud as he is ragged; boasting of his descent
  from the illustrious house of Aguilar; from which sprang Gonzalvo of
  Cordova; the grand captain。 Nay; he actually bears the name of
  Alonzo de Aguilar; so renowned in the history of the conquest;
  though the graceless wags of the fortress have given him the title
  of el padre santo; or the holy father; the usual appellation of the
  Pope; which I had thought too sacred in the eyes of true Catholics
  to be thus ludicrously applied。 It is a whimsical caprice of fortune
  to present; in the grotesque person of this tatterdemalion; a namesake
  and descendant of the proud Alonzo de Aguilar; the mirror of
  Andalusian chivalry; leading an almost mendicant existence about
  this once haughty fortress; which his ancestor aided to reduce; yet;
  such might have been the lot of the descendants of Agamemnon and
  Achilles; had they lingered about the ruins of Troy!
  Of this motley community; I find the family of my gossiping
  squire; Mateo Ximenes; to form; from their numbers at least; a very
  important part。 His boast of being a son of the Alhambra; is not
  unfounded。 His family has inhabited the fortress ever since the time
  of the conquest; handing down an hereditary poverty from father to
  son; not one of them having ever been known to be worth a maravedi。
  His father; by trade a ribbon…weaver; and who succeeded the historical
  tailor as the head of the family; is now near seventy years of age;
  and lives in a hovel of reeds and plaster; built by his own hands;
  just above the iron gate。 The furniture consists of a crazy bed; a
  table; and two or three chairs; a wooden chest; containing; besides
  his scanty clothing; the 〃archives of the family。〃 These are nothing
  more nor less than the papers of various lawsuits sustained by
  different generations; by which it would seem that; with all their
  apparent carelessness and good humor; they are a litigious brood。 Most
  of the suits have been brought against gossiping neighbors for
  questioning the purity of their blood; and denying their being
  Cristianos viejos; i。 e。 old Christians; without Jewish or Moorish
  taint。 In fact; I doubt whether this jealousy about their blood has
  not kept them so poor in purse: spending all their earnings on
  escribanos and alguazils。 The pride of the hovel is an escutcheon
  suspended against the wall; in which are emblazoned quarterings of the
  arms of the Marquis of Caiesedo; and of various other noble houses;
  with which this poverty…stricken brood claim affinity。
  As to Mateo himself; who is now about thirty…five years of age; he
  has done his utmost to perpetuate his line and continue the poverty of
  the family; having a wife and a numerous progeny; who inhabit an
  almost dismantled hovel in the hamlet。 How they manage to subsist;
  he only who sees into all mysteries can tell; the subsistence of a
  Spanish family of the kind; is always a riddle to me; yet they do
  subsist; and what is more; appear to enjoy their existence。 The wife
  takes her holiday stroll on the Paseo of Granada; with a child in
  her arms and half a dozen at her heels; and the eldest daughter; now
  verging into womanhood; dresses her hair with flowers; and dances
  gayly to the castanets。
  There are two classes of people to whom life seems one long holiday;
  the very rich; and the very poor; one because they need do nothing;
  the other because they have nothing to do; but there are none who
  understand the art of doing nothing and living upon nothing; better
  than the poor classes of Spain。 Climate does one half; and temperament
  the rest。 Give a Spaniard the shade in summer; and the sun in
  winter; a little bread; garlic; oil; and garbances; an old brown cloak
  and a guitar; and let the world roll on as it pleases。 Talk of
  poverty! with him it has no disgrace。 It sits upon him with a
  grandiose style; like his ragged cloak。 He is a hidalgo; even when
  in rags。
  The 〃sons of the Alhambra〃 are an eminent illustration of this
  practical philosophy。 As the Moors imagined that the celestial
  paradise hung over this favored spot; so I am inclined at times to
  fancy; that a gleam of the golden age still lingers about this
  ragged community。 They possess nothing; they do nothing; they care for
  nothing。 Yet; though apparently idle all the week; they are as
  observant of all holy days and saints' days as the most laborious
  artisan。 They attend all fetes and dancings in Granada and its
  vicinity; light bonfires on the hills on St。 John's eve; and dance
  away the moonlight nights on the harvest…home of a small field
  within the precincts of the fortress; which yields a few bushels of
  wheat。
  Before concluding these remarks; I must mention one of the
  amusements of the place which has particularly struck me。 I had
  repeatedly observed a long lean fellow perched on the top of one of
  the towers; manoeuvring two or three fishing…rods; as though he were
  angling for the stars。 I was for some time perplexed by the evolutions
  of this aerial fisherman; and my perplexity increased on observing
  others employed in like manner on different parts of the battlements
  and bastions; it was not until I consulted Mateo Ximenes; that I
  solved the mystery。
  It seems that the pure and airy situation of this fortress has
  rendered it; like the castle of Macbeth; a prolific breeding…place for
  swallows and martlets; who sport about its towers in myriads; with the
  holiday glee of urchins just let loose from school。 To entrap these
  birds in their giddy circlings; with hooks baited with flies; is one
  of the favorite amusements of the ragged 〃sons of the Alhambra;〃
  who; with the good…for…nothing ingenuity of arrant idlers; have thus
  invented the art of angling in the sky。
  The Hall of Ambassadors。
  IN ONE of my visits to the old Moorish chamber; where the good Tia
  Antonia cooks her dinner and receives her company; I observed a
  mysterious door in one corner; leading apparently into the ancient
  part of the edifice。 My curiosity being aroused; I opened it; and
  found myself in a narrow; blind corridor; groping along which I came
  to the head of a dark winding staircase; leading down an angle of
  the Tower of Comares。 Down this staircase I descended darkling;
  guiding myself by the wall until I came to a small door at the bottom;
  throwing which open; I was suddenly dazzled by emerging into the
  brilliant antechamber of the Hall of Ambassadors; with the fountain of
  the Court of the Alberca sparkling